So what happens if I drive in 4wd on pavent?

[POPO AGIE]

this WILL eventually happen , so DON'T do it ..........

If he had limited slips he would have had plenty of warning way before damage was done. My Rams I have had since 2005 1/2, 3/4, and 2 1 tons would crow hop real bad even on slick surfaces. I would have to put them in 2 wheel drive anytime I had to make a tight turn. In my avatar photo I can't get the 3500 or the 1500 off of that pad when it is muddy or snow and ice without it badly crow hopping in 4WD because I have to make a tight 180 turn to head for the cattle guard and get on the highway.

When we have a large snow fall with the wind we have to have my Wife's truck moved out of the building first before the John Deere can be taken out of the barn.

 

[Broski]

If the hubs were unlocked there"s no way you could hurt it. A little extra vibration is all from the front drive shaft at most.

 

[jim land]

Driving in 4wd on hard surface is bad, this is why everyone in moab stay on 2wd 😄

 

[Living in the Past]

Can't see driving in 4WD with the hubs unlocked for a mile could possibly be harmful. Toyota delivered the FJ40 with drive plates, then everything was spinning. Which end was driving just changed. Either way should not be any binding like driving with a locked transfer case in 4WD on the pavement. My FJ62 is only used around our cabin. Hubs are left locked all the time. If I get up around 50 MPH can notice some vibration.

 

[Grayscale]

There must have been some reason why they engineered it to be driven by the rear axle on a part-time 4wd set-up? I wonder what percentage of passenger (not pickup trucks) vehicles are still driven from the rear? Maybe they were afraid of the parasitic loss of work on a ball-and-claw, or birfield? Maybe the engineers broke a cv joint, because the load on a set of leaf springs (axle wrap), combined with intermittent traction climbing thru rocks, must be like an impact hammer on the weaker front drivetrain.

The vehicle's kingpin angle - defined by the ball joints, wheel centers, etc. will be engineered so that it can keep the vehicle tracking straight (yes, properly tuned, an _J40 you can just let go of the steering wheel - steering slop from the factory is not undesirable if it just drives straight by itself (throttle, cruise, and brake), just like the other vehicles parked in my driveway). However, the price for stable, and mostly rear axle drive, is in the vehicles ability to corner, particularly with bumps in the road. Makes me wonder why we push our 4wd vehicles and not pull them?

Notice how many basically rwd, lifted, bigger-tires, vehicles are on an average Craigslist page - it must be 10x greater than what one observes waiting at an average traffic light. I wonder if hacked up vehicles have more or less average numbers of owners. I can think of two 40s that died from complications relating to SOA. I know that my first 40 met a fate of plasma cutter, after I sold it - the only thing still living is the roll cage. Rear-wheel-drive is a horrible way to shrink a map.

 

[sogncab]

Same here, the ole diesel dually is a little more predictable on slick roads!

I didn't care for my diesel pickup on slick roads. Pickups have terrible weight distribution, and mine was around 1000ft/lbs and it turned on at at 1200rpm. I'd let it rev running one gear low to negate some of that. Length is always better though. My crewcab regular box was a barge, physics is in your favor on that one.

Best vehicle I've ever owned in slippery was a WRX on snow tires. That thing was unreal up to about 5" of snow. After that, it ran out of clearance. My 80 does well too, it suffers from having an automechanicalshifting tranny, but it's heavy, gutless, and it goes through the snow. Doesn't stop for crap though. 😆




You're not really doing anything with the hubs unlocked. The front tires are free wheeling yet, so you're not getting any binding. You're just spinning parts for no reason. flx's diagram does a great job showing the different circles/paths the tires take in a turn

 

[sogncab]

My Rams I have had since 2005 1/2, 3/4, and 2 1 tons would crow hop real bad even on slick surfaces.

Cool thing with RAM RAM solid axle pickups, you can unlock the front axle and have 2 Lo. I put a module in my 18' to do that and I fricking loved being able to move a trailer around in tight spaces and not beat on the clutch too bad.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Did not know of a module. I put a hitch on my 3 point hitch and I use my JD 3033 to move my trailers. Visibility is fantastic.

 

[sogncab]

Did not know of a module. I put a hitch on my 3 point hitch and I use my JD 3033 to move my trailers. Visibility is fantastic.

BD Diesel Performance

That would be handy at home. I'm wiggling trailers into strange places on jobsites.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I get crap every time I want to move one of the trailers and I need to get her to move her truck so I can get the JD out. But I can also get the tractor ready faster. The Heavy Hitch is not very heavy and I can get it attached to the I-Match and at the trailer faster than I can get the hitch mounted on the truck. I can put the weights on the Heavy Hitch, and it makes uncoupling faster too, because I drop the 3-Point hitch and only have to get out of the cab to lock the coupler. I could also move a 5th wheel or gooseneck if the 3-point can lift the trailer.

 

[sogncab]

I bought a quick attach plate with a receiver on it for the skid loader. I still haven't used it. I'm not sure how well it actually works.

 

[bikersmurf]

There must have been some reason why they engineered it to be driven by the rear axle on a part-time 4wd set-up? I wonder what percentage of passenger (not pickup trucks) vehicles are still driven from the rear? Maybe they were afraid of the parasitic loss of work on a ball-and-claw, or birfield? Maybe the engineers broke a cv joint, because the load on a set of leaf springs (axle wrap), combined with intermittent traction climbing thru rocks, must be like an impact hammer on the weaker front drivetrain.

The vehicle's kingpin angle - defined by the ball joints, wheel centers, etc. will be engineered so that it can keep the vehicle tracking straight (yes, properly tuned, an _J40 you can just let go of the steering wheel - steering slop from the factory is not undesirable if it just drives straight by itself (throttle, cruise, and brake), just like the other vehicles parked in my driveway). However, the price for stable, and mostly rear axle drive, is in the vehicles ability to corner, particularly with bumps in the road. Makes me wonder why we push our 4wd vehicles and not pull them?

Notice how many basically rwd, lifted, bigger-tires, vehicles are on an average Craigslist page - it must be 10x greater than what one observes waiting at an average traffic light. I wonder if hacked up vehicles have more or less average numbers of owners. I can think of two 40s that died from complications relating to SOA. I know that my first 40 met a fate of plasma cutter, after I sold it - the only thing still living is the roll cage. Rear-wheel-drive is a horrible way to shrink a map.

Reason 1: when you accelerate, weight is shifted rearward giving the drive wheels more traction.

2: Birfields are a week point in the drivetrain.

3; experience driving a 40 in front wheel drive (rear shaft removed for repairs) has shown me that the front wheels are easily spun. If spinning steering results become unpredictable. Both observed with F engine.

 

[Grayscale]

3; experience driving a 40 in front wheel drive (rear shaft removed for repairs) has shown me that the front wheels are easily spun. If spinning steering results become unpredictable. Both observed with F engine.

Just a guess, 33x10.5 on a 8" wheel? About 19 psi?

Tire contour design link
(RR stands for Rolling Resistance, Round/Flat = contour of tire)

 

[bikersmurf]

Just a guess, 33x10.5 on a 8" wheel? About 19 psi?

Tire contour design link
(RR stands for Rolling Resistance, Round/Flat = contour of tire)

Give or take. Done it with 31x10.50, 33x12.50. Both on 8” rims.