Sniper amperage requirements (1 Viewer)

[21NDone]

Just checked the old parts boxes… The alternator that was on my 1970 (11/69) 40 was 27020-60032, shows as a 12V 40A alt, but -30/+30 on the gauge. Running the rebuilt AC Delco unit now which came up as a direct replacement when I ordered it
View attachment 3523602
View attachment 3523603

I think I’m going to give my -60033 a shot and see how things go. Thanks for the follow-up.

 

[GA Architect]

All reassuring information, thanks! How did you address the temperature gauge for the cluster and the sniper? Because I’d like to keep the cluster temp gauge operational with the Snyper I’m thinking of adding an additional sensor in the head. Am i overthinking it?

Sniper coolant sensor location < click here > post #29 has the location I use...but there are many different temp sensor locations discussed in that thread.

 

[Jdc1]

Sniper coolant sensor location < click here > post #29 has the location I use...but there are many different temp sensor locations discussed in that thread.

Rick- I’m seeing an almost 10* difference between the block drain location(sniper) and the head(dakota). You are running stock gauge in the cluster?

 

[RLMS]

The sniper ecu should be reading same coolant temps as the cyl head. There is a reason that OE input locations are in the head.

 

[GA Architect]

Rick- I’m seeing an almost 10* difference between the block drain location(sniper) and the head(dakota). You are running stock gauge in the cluster?

Being that the head uses the OEM sensor to the OEM gauge, I'm not sure of what difference (if any) in temp between the two. I will say, during typical driving conditions, my Sniper reads around 185 (+/-) consistently. Being that I run a 190 degree thermostat, seems the Sniper is reading an accurate temperature. None the less, I never really put too much thought into the Sniper location/reading, just so that the sensor would get above 160 degrees it all that really mattered.

Check out post #32 < click here >...but read post #30 & #31 first to understand the comment.

Below is a pic after about 330 miles, 7 hours of driving in 85 degree (+/-) temps, from Woodstock GA to Santa Rosa Beach FL.

YES, I'm aware of the the NAY-SAYER'S pissing and moaning about where to put the Sniper Temp Sensor. You had better put it here or you are DOING IT WRONG!!!!! Eh, to them, I'm just an idiot I guess?!?!

 

[WildernessRimFab]

The sniper ecu should be reading same coolant temps as the cyl head. There is a reason that OE input locations are in the head.

The OP has a 72, so assuming original engine there should be an unused sensor port in the head that will accept the Sniper temp sender without messing with the coolant drain. @GA Architect I am sure the coolant drain location is FINE if an extra port isnt available in the head!

Photo from my Sniper install thread, note the shiny sensor next to the center of the intake manifold.

 

[GA Architect]

The OP has a 72, so assuming original engine there should be an unused sensor port in the head that will accept the Sniper temp sender without messing with the coolant drain. @GA Architect I am sure the coolant drain location is FINE if an extra port isnt available in the head!

Photo from my Sniper install thread, note the shiny sensor next to the center of the intake manifold.
View attachment 3523953

Yep, if the cylinder head on my rig had the extra port, that is where I would locate it fo-sho.

 

[21NDone]

The OP has a 72, so assuming original engine there should be an unused sensor port in the head that will accept the Sniper temp sender without messing with the coolant drain. @GA Architect I am sure the coolant drain location is FINE if an extra port isnt available in the head!

Photo from my Sniper install thread, note the shiny sensor next to the center of the intake manifold.
View attachment 3523953

My configuration is exactly like the picture above. Prior to the engine rebuild only the rear 2 ports were used. I'll use the 3rd spot with the reducer in the port near the center of the head. Thanks for the information!

 

[ryanwk628]

Could the earlier heads be tapped for the sensor? If I recall there is a boss. Then it could be done to the Sniper thread spec and eliminate the need for a reducer.

 

[Steamer]

I just put an ammeter on the Sniper main 12V supply and the fuel pump. The fuel pump is powered through a relay within the Sniper harness, so I measured separately and added. Total, 9.43 amps DC.

 

[21NDone]

I just put an ammeter on the Sniper main 12V supply and the fuel pump. The fuel pump is powered through a relay within the Sniper harness, so I measured separately and added. Total, 9.43 amps DC.

View attachment 3524113

This information gives me more confidence the -60033 will be sufficient for my needs provided I'm not adding anything to the system. Thanks!

 

[MOTOV8R]

I just put an ammeter on the Sniper main 12V supply and the fuel pump. The fuel pump is powered through a relay within the Sniper harness, so I measured separately and added. Total, 9.43 amps DC.

View attachment 3524113

Nice meter!

 

[Steamer]

Nice meter!

Thanks. It sure is. A bit pricey & I pondered over getting it for a long time and only recently went for it. What’s weird is, I have used & owned AC clamp-on ammeters/Amprobes since my childhood and throughout my working career but all that time I was believing that a DC clamp-on ammeters did not and could not exist because the induction field in a DC wire does not move (when on). Also, I just never noticed them in any catalogs. I was an old man when I just happened to find out different. It is my 5th Fluke meter and like it the best. Besides the Fluke hygrometer, this could replace them all.