Smog Pump Rebuild

[Trollhole]

Many post on people replacing these and some rebuilding these but nothing with pics. From what I can tell this rebuild will work for any pump between 1/75 and 1/79 and possibly earlier models.

Rebuild parts can be found in this thread.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/156216-smog-pump-rebuild-bearings.html

So pics. Pretty much self explanitory on how to disassmble.

Note: The nut retaining the pulley comes off clockwise. If you put and impact wrench on it and turn it the wrong way it will strip the nut. Ask me how I know.

 

[Trollhole]

The spinning blades of death.

Front bearing. I didn't show how to remove it but it's pretty easy. Just punch it out from the back side.

These I have yet to figure out how to get out. Though I have not tried very hard.

And this is where I am today. Got to love a bead blaster.

Yes I know the pulley retaining shaft is stripped. I have a spare.

 

[nodaksn3]

Wow! Great post and pics. What normally fails on these? Bearings? I do know that when the pump failed on my '81 FJ40, and I took it apart, the whole mess just fell out. Never could reassemble it, or figure out what happened to it. Have you reassembled it yet? Bet the pump on my '84 Mercedes looks pretty much the same, and it needs rebuilt too. $$$ saved?? Ned

 

[Fast Eddy]

Wow! Great post and pics.

x2

What normally fails on these?

The two I have these parts are worn out. They hold air pressure and the pump won't pump much air without them being tight.

Trollhole, did you find suitable replacements? I made one good set from two pumps, but they won't last forever.

I didn't do anything to my bearings.

 

[Shipwreck]

The two I have these parts are worn out. They hold air pressure and the pump won't pump much air without them being tight.

Fast Eddy is correct. The carbon shoes are unobtainium. If your cracked, worn shoes are not replaced, the pump will not put out much volume.

I think this may be your biggest challenge to rebuilding your pump.

I rebuilt mine about ten years ago and ran into the same problem. I searched and searched for a source of new carbon shoes without success. I eventually bought a cheapo Cardone replacement pump and when it didn't work, I torn it apart before returning it... sure enough, the carbon shoes on the rebuilt pump were cracked, broken and worn just like mine.
I eventually pieced together enough intact shoes from other cruiserheads who were replacing or scraping their pumps to repair my original pump.
I may even have a couple old shoes stashed away in the shed. If I can dig them up I'd be happy to donate them to your cause.

 

[Trollhole]

Well I have another pump that is going to give me some of my doner parts. I wonder if it's something I could make.

Wonder how hot that area gets?

I wonder if Aluminum would work?

 

[Trollhole]

I found this place. Looks like they might have just what we are looking for. Will contact them monday once I have specs.

Graphite Store:  Graphite Bushings, bearings, vanes

 

[Fast Eddy]

I wonder if Aluminum would work?

The problem I see is that those bushings (for lack of a better term) squeeze and rub the "blades of death". If they're not the right hardness, they'd rub a groove into them and the assembly won't hold pressure.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I found this place. Looks like they might have just what we are looking for. Will contact them monday once I have specs.

Graphite Store:**Graphite Bushings, bearings, vanes

Whoa! Good find. I could come up with a used bushing if you need one to send to them for an exact fit. I'd put up some $$ to get some custom made or cut if necessary.

 

[Trollhole]

I had the smog pump the PO gave me off my 76 FJ40. I was having a heck of a time getting one of the hoses off. When I pulled it off this is what I found. Ghetto desmog 101. Don't know if it worked. (That's a bottle cap)

75 fj55 on the left 75 FJ40 on the right. Disregard the fact the one on the right looks bigger. It's not. Note how hose fittings are orientated.

Innards of 76 fj40

75 on left note vent

The graphite seals.

The width of the seal is from what I can tell 4.85 mm x 4.85 mm x 60 mm.

Can someone confirm this?

Bead blasted.

The 76 fj40 tag

This is how I removed the blade of death bearings.

Removing the rear main bearing.

Cleaned and waiting for more new parts.

 

[Fast Eddy]

you and your bead blaster. Those parts look sweet! I've had mine apart a couple times now and it still looks junkyard.

 

[bsevans]

I had the smog pump the PO gave me off my 76 FJ40. I was having a heck of a time getting one of the hoses off. When I pulled it off this is what I found. Ghetto desmog 101. Don't know if it worked. (That's a bottle cap)

75 fj55 on the left 75 FJ40 on the right. Disregard the fact the one on the right looks bigger. It's not. Note how hose fittings are orientated.

Innards of 76 fj40

75 on left note vent

The graphite seals.

The width of the seal is from what I can tell 4.85 mm x 4.85 mm x 60 mm.

Can someone confirm this?

Bead blasted.

The 76 fj40 tag

This is how I removed the blade of death bearings.

Removing the rear main bearing.

Cleaned and waiting for more new parts.

Did you notice that the housing for the rear bearing has three holes the same size and one smaller (not the bolt holes). It needs to be bolted on with the correct orientation to the openings in the cylinder it bolts to. On my two units, there are 3 openings that are also the same size and one that is smaller. The smaller opening is where the small hole is oriented over when bolting the bearing plate back on.

 

[merbesfield]

Nice work Marshall, as always. Are you rebuilding these because you want to keep the truck exactly stock or bc it will not run without it? Or both. Just wondering how these things work and what they do. I imagine there is a post somewhere that explains all this. I am also asking bc I probably have the original smog pump that was on the 78 pig that I got my engine out of. I need to know if I will need it in the LV or not, but I have already removed all the smog stuff? Not sure what condition the old smog pump it is in. I have seen some posts about using it gutted as a pulley only?

One other question, what media are you using in your blast cabinet?

 

[Trollhole]

Nice work Marshall, as always. Are you rebuilding these because you want to keep the truck exactly stock or bc it will not run without it? Or both. Just wondering how these things work and what they do. I imagine there is a post somewhere that explains all this. I am also asking bc I probably have the original smog pump that was on the 78 pig that I got my engine out of. I need to know if I will need it in the LV or not, but I have already removed all the smog stuff? Not sure what condition the old smog pump it is in. I have seen some posts about using it gutted as a pulley only?

One other question, what media are you using in your blast cabinet?

Mark I'd like to have as much original parts on the cruiser as possible.

Glass beads.

 

[Trollhole]

Did you notice that the housing for the rear bearing has three holes the same size and one smaller (not the bolt holes). It needs to be bolted on with the correct orientation to the openings in the cylinder it bolts to. On my two units, there are 3 openings that are also the same size and one that is smaller. The smaller opening is where the small hole is oriented over when bolting the bearing plate back on.

Now you have me really confused.

You mean these?

 

[bsevans]

Now you have me really confused.

You mean these?

Yes, 3 are the same and one is smaller. On the two cylinders I have you can see that 3 of the slots that line up with those throught holes are also the same size and the 4th slot is smaller. You never posted a photo of the cylinder with the bearing housing removed. I do notice that your smog pump has 6 bolts where as my 78 has 4. Oh, hell here are some photos.

Edit: You do have a photo of the cylinder and it does have a similar set of slots in the end of the cylinder. I would imagine your smog pump was also small hole to small slot in the end of the cylinder.

 

[Doug_S]

Rebuilt pumps are listed at Rockauto.com for only $88.79 with no core charge. A-1 CARDONE Part # 33779. It may not be original, but probably it'll work to get you through a smog check station.

 

[merbesfield]

Rebuilt pumps are listed at Rockauto.com for only $88.79 with no core charge. A-1 CARDONE Part # 33779. It may not be original, but probably it'll work to get you through a smog check station.

Advance Auto for $64.94. I do not care for the big box parts stores, but I have to say that these guys give me more service than any other parts place out there. The run parts almost immediately. Yea, the parts are crap sometimes, but if you know what you are looking for they are usually a lot cheaper than others. I really do not see how they could make any money with parts this cheap. They give me a life time wty for what its worth. Yea, you have some add. labor sometimes, but not often and the never question it, just hand you another part. Some of their better parts are still cheaper than others. Like a Nippondenso starter, $88.99 remanded by Bosch. Does anyone know? But I would think that would be a qty. reman.? Oh, yea, bc we are a commercial acct. we get at least another 10% off any price you see on the web when it rings up. How do they make any money? Volume? Must be a lot of volume.

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

 

[cruiserbrett]

Marshall,
the pump with the one 90 outlet and one straight outlet is from a 74 or so. 2F's all looked about like the one on the left.

 

[bsevans]

Marshall,
I degreased the components for both smog pumps and found the following in both. It is a hard smooth layer and I would be concerned that any type of bead blasting might remove it. Did you see this in your smog pump? Guess I'll leave the inside degreased and install my bearings tomorrow. I should have both units finished and one installed in the 40. It will be nice to get behind the wheel again.