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I got it apart and found one of the screws stripped on the terminal, so replacing that, too.

Mandatory picture, because it's happening. :)

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Well, I took apart the motor gear box, just to give a report on the Super Lube grease I used and found something interesting. The Super Lube was great, no caking, drying out, etc. So I cleaned everything up to put in fresh grease since it's been something like 10 years, not sure, but the pinion gear ( steel ) has very badly worn teeth on it and the brass ring gear has very little, but some marks on it. The pinion gear is so bad, I'm replacing the whole thing with my OEM gear set, still in the Toyota bag, yeah, I know I'm cool. :cool:

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One other thing, one of the white plastic spacers in the first picture is cracked, replacing that, also. I can't get a better close up of that pinion gear, but it's bad. What do you think, the brass ring gear caused that or something else?
 
Pinion gear or worm gear?
If you’re talking about the worm-drive gear that engages the brass/bronze gear and not the gear that engages the teeth of the lift arms, then my guess is that Super Lube is no bueno for that application. IMO there shouldn’t be any wear on a steel gear that engages brass or bronze.
 
RUSH55 said:
Pinion gear or worm gear?
If you’re talking about the worm-drive gear that engages the brass/bronze gear and not the gear that engages the teeth of the lift arms, then my guess is that Super Lube is no bueno for that application. IMO there shouldn’t be any wear on a steel gear that engages brass or bronze.
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Agree with Rush on this one. That lube ain't lubing and the friction is filing the worm gear down. If you had the plastic gear in there the worm gear would be fine and that lube may have been enough due to the difference in coefficient of friction between the plastic and bronze. Use a different lube or put the plastic gear in.
 
samc2447 said:
That lube ain't lubing and the friction is filing the worm gear down.
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I like the worm drive lube like the SKILSAW brand or any of the readily available brands for their saws.

More reading on the worm drive lube requirements.
www.machinerylubrication.com

The Right Way to Lubricate Worm Gears

Of all the different types of gear configurations, worm gear systems are considered some of the most problematic because they present unique lubrication challenges due to their distinct desi…
www.machinerylubrication.com www.machinerylubrication.com


FYI; I don't know anything about the lube @scrapdaddy uses and it could very well exceed the ratings of the lube I used in mine so don't go changing yours based on my opinion do your own research.
 
bobm said:
Must be mo dan 3 limit
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Bob was right, I had my head up the Bud bottle. The pinion gear is worn out, not the worm gear, so the brass gear wasn't doing the damage. I didn't take take a close look at the lift arms, yet. I did see some rubbing on the arms and the two supports of the tailgate body. That whole thing is cadmium plated and you can see where it's rubbed off. Let me do some more looking. Good feed back guys! 👍
 
I did a little reading about Super Lube and the AI bot says it's good for worm gears. I know we talked about corn head grease, but it's somewhat runny and would leak out. How would you keep the Skilsaw oil in there? When I opened up the cover, the gears still had a nice coating on them, so it is doing it's job, just I don't how good. I guess I'll have to up my maintenance schedule from 10 years to 5. :)
 
scrapdaddy said:
Bob was right, I had my head up the Bud bottle. The pinion gear is worn out, not the worm gear, so the brass gear wasn't doing the damage. I didn't take take a close look at the lift arms, yet. I did see some rubbing on the arms and the two supports of the tailgate body. That whole thing is cadmium plated and you can see where it's rubbed off. Let me do some more looking. Good feed back guys! 👍
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Now that will be an interesting one to experiment on. Can’t remember if there was a layer of dried grease on the lift arm teeth way back when, but they’re just like the window regulator gears in function. A spray-on open gear and chain lube or maybe a spray moly. Something that will stick to the teeth and not dry out.
 
I've got 5 other used pinion gears and that new set in the bag. I don't know why so many, but I do. Only one other had significant wear on the teeth. I looked at the teeth on the lift arms, some wear, but not bad. I'm replacing with a better unit, as I think those arms are bent.

Rush, I brushed Super Lube on those lift arm gears and just now had to wipe it off in order to inspect them, that's been a long time.
 
IIRC those plastic gears were sold with a replacement pinion gear. Maybe there's a reason for that. I also have a NOS set somewhere. When I bought my pig they would pop up occasionally. Haven't seen a set in quite some time.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
IIRC those plastic gears were sold with a replacement pinion gear
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Yes they were sold as a set and you may be right as to why. I'm thinking on staying with the brass gear since it wasn't the cause of wear. Good to have some spares. :)
 
Speaking of spares and my wonderful lucky, guess what snapped playing with the handle adjustment. Yep, the handle gave way. So, I have one spare left with some pitting, but fine for my junk. Now I wish I went ahead and bought one of those new ones. On my list to buy....:) I was hoping to have this wrapped up by now. Everything else is good to go, I think, at least it works. Stand by.
 
So, I repacked the new gears with grease and put it all back, worked good, then the handle snapped. I only have one spare and it will work (hopefully) until I can get one of those printed ones. It's a shame as the old handle was really nice. They all break!

The new pinion gear on left.

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Depressing....

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