bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I heard .001 inch! 
Ouch 
hurts
Ouch hurts 
Builds SLOW 71 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
- Start date
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Yeah I’d say 1/8 to 1/16, any more your just burning tire off.
Toe is set with degrees. Total toe by the book is .10 degree. Split that per side and use a little math via Pythagorean theorem, estimation of the length of the jig you built in the picture, comes out to just under 1/8 of an inch. Sounds about right. Too little and it will track weird. Set it and keep an eye on tire wear to see if it is happy.
Pigeaten
GOLD Star
i should have gone to mathnasium
It's really not that critical. It more important to make sure you start with the steering as straight ahead as possible. Or just swing by and I can put it on the rack and get it within a tenth of a degree of perfection for you.
- Thread starter
- #3,607
Say What??
Just kidding, thanks for some great input.So, if I have the rear end jacked up with tires off and run a string back to front (rotor to rotor), I should get the front pretty close to straight, correct? If so, I'll try again to see where I'm at. Thanks again!
That should get you there. These old trucks are pretty forgiving. (Read that as: even at their best the steering is sloppy enough to absorb a lot of misalignment guessing.)
- Thread starter
- #3,609
True Dat!
Give exact measurements of your jig and I'm sure we can convert that to fractions of an inch at a given length.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
@scrapdaddy You deleted the most important part of his reply.
- Thread starter
- #3,612
I played with the tie rod ends today getting them balanced, discovered one was screwed into much and the other not enough (if that makes sense). Fixed that and reset the toe-in to 3/32nds. so I'm calling it good. I'm saving Craig's invite for something big one day, like fixing my transfer case in Silverton. 
Waiting now for the new Power Tank shock fill kit to recharge the shocks before moving on to the rear axle. I didn't know the nitrogen had to be checked/topped off every year or so on the King shocks. My old system for filling the shocks was on the primitive side. On a good note, with all the new parts, rad., water pump, hydro hoses for the new coolers, etc. I fired it up and NO LEAKS! That's totally not like my luck.
Waiting now for the new Power Tank shock fill kit to recharge the shocks before moving on to the rear axle. I didn't know the nitrogen had to be checked/topped off every year or so on the King shocks. My old system for filling the shocks was on the primitive side. On a good note, with all the new parts, rad., water pump, hydro hoses for the new coolers, etc. I fired it up and NO LEAKS! That's totally not like my luck.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice! Kurt @cruiseroutfit to the rescue...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Never mind - wow, sounds like quite the failure...
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- Thread starter
- #3,615
I tried out the new fill kit from Power Tank. My old setup was ok, but I couldn't fill the shocks very accurate or easy, so I pretty much neglected them. With this setup it's so much easier and I can hit the mark (150 psi) every time. Moving down my "must do" list before May hits. We're planning on a camping trip to the Arkansas Ozarks before the Pig Party, so I need to get cracking.
The power tank is also really nice for airing up tires. Some say better than compressors. I'm at the point I need to decide which route I want to go. Both have advantages and both aren't free and need a place to go.
- Thread starter
- #3,617
Yeah, I've got a good on board compressor, so I'm sticking with it, slower than the Power Tank though.
Is your tank CO2 or Nitrogen?
- Thread starter
- #3,619
Nitrogen, not for filling my tires.
You can put nitro in tires. A lot manufacturers deliver cars with in. That's what the green stem caps signify that most drivers ignore.