No, can't hurt. I'm just a cheap-@ss and the pull-and-turn method is free. Do what you feel comfortable doing.
slee 4" install notes & questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter peepers
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
No, can't hurt. I'm just a cheap-@ss and the pull-and-turn method is free. Do what you feel comfortable doing.
And, in comes the expert with a perfectly legitimate reason why NOT to do the pull and turn.
- Thread starter
- #23
woah, best not let the finance take the truck to providence then! thanks rick!
Last edited:
Why not, it could be an ADVENTURE! Honey, you can only turn LEFT... now, c-ya!
Landtank is the man!
where's the pics??!!!
how bout some before and afters
how bout some before and afters
FWIW, anyone talking up an OME with spacers vs. a 4" slee spring...
You need to drive a truck with Slee springs...MUCH better than OME.
You need to drive a truck with Slee springs...MUCH better than OME.
- Thread starter
- #30
Finally - yes.
Castor
Left = 2.6*
Right = 3.2*
Camber
Left = 0.0*
Right = 0.2*
Toe
Left = 0.1*
Right = 0.1*
Total = 0.2*
The springs have been on for about 8k miles now. Overall the driving impression is good. I have the ARB up front with no winch and it does not feel too stiff at all. It is stiff, it is just not too stiff.
The truck tracks OK on the highway. Obviously not as well as it used to but then again its 4" higher and has 35" tires on it, what can you expect right?
As you see in the write up, I also installed the castor plates. As a result, the tie rod does rub the front control arms slightly. Annoying. Also, the springs rub the front bumpstops in many offraod situations - also annoying.
A couple of things to make note of if you are thinking of doing or have done this lift. My bolts came loose. The front panhard bolt fell out on the freeway - scary. As a result, I checked the others. Some were loose. Definitely my fault for not checking after the first few times I drove it but I would recommend some Loctite (sp?) or something smilier of you are going to do this work.
Just my $.02, YMMV
Spec is 3* (+/-1*) so those numbers are right in the middle of the range.
I installed the Landtank caster plates. My truck is now at +1.5* so it is bit to the low side of spec but it drives very good. I'll pull all the numbers this evening if I think about it.
FWIW, my alignment shop couldn't mount their gear to the wheels so they charged me an extra $38 to rig up the equipment to the outside of the tyre. You and I have exactly the same wheels and tyres. I wonder what's up with that.
-B-
peepers, i bet you are contacting the tie rod because of the way the axle is turned on it's rear axis. Not a BIG deal, but it is annoying as you say. Landtank's plates are supposed to eliminate this, but they are not exactly bolt on. There is some drilling required.
I had slee's plates on when i was unloaded and sitting at J spring height. I rubbed a little also. Once i added weight and brought the front end down a little, i took the plates off and pressed in slee's blue bushings using landtank's template. Love it! No more tie rod contact and it tracks great.
I'm thinking when i do my next lift-morf which will be soon, i will use blue loctite on the bolts to keep everything snugg.
I had slee's plates on when i was unloaded and sitting at J spring height. I rubbed a little also. Once i added weight and brought the front end down a little, i took the plates off and pressed in slee's blue bushings using landtank's template. Love it! No more tie rod contact and it tracks great.
I'm thinking when i do my next lift-morf which will be soon, i will use blue loctite on the bolts to keep everything snugg.
For the record I never said that it eliminated the rubbing, only that it didn't seem to be a problem. With a few more installs a couple of guys have noticed some light rubbing on the rods as well. I can eliminate it by slightly altering the drill location but my design was based on keeping the axle in the stock location as much as possible as far as panhard, spring and arm location. I did my best to only influence caster and not throw other things out of whack in the process.
- Thread starter
- #34
These guys were great. They actually took $10 off the alignment because it took them so long to set it up!
So even after you cut away your control arm tab you were able to remove the slee plates and use Landtank's plates? BTW, guess who helped me with the install?
He is too nice to push his own product on people though...
So even after you cut away your control arm tab you were able to remove the slee plates and use Landtank's plates? BTW, guess who helped me with the install?
.
No, i sold slee's plates (just had a very small tack weld in the front of the plate, so i cut that off). Then i used Rick's template to pressing blue bushings in. No plates on my rig right now. I haven't been to an alignment shop yet as i plan to swap out springs and that will start the whole process over again.
