Builds Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto (2 Viewers)

[EWheeler]

Success! It runs! But I have a pretty good leak at the carb primary throttle shaft. I have a vacuum leak causing a hanging idle and tuning problems and I suspect it’s that shaft. The leak is bad enough that a squirt of the accelerator pump will cause fuel to trickle out of there; not just a seep.
No pics but ewheeler, I cleaned that firewall area up before I stuck the engine back in and glad I did. Looks much better. View attachment 2867235View attachment 2867236

Rats on the fuel leak. What is the solution for that? Throw the carb away and rebuild another one and hope it doesnt have the same issue? I posted a question about this in another thread asking if the shafts should be greased (something like petroleum jelly) during a rebuild to try and “seal” them up. I suspect with that much flow, the fuel would just wash the grease out like a solvent.

 

[Skreddy]

I have seen threads where you could bore the hole out and use a bushing. Other options are find a good used carb base and attach my top. Ultimate solution is a sniper, which I was actually planning on in the spring. Would like to have more miles on it though before throwing that much more money on it, only to find out something else is wrong.
I’m going to do a smoke test to make sure that’s where the vacuum leak is first. When running, no fuel comes out of there, most likely because it is drawn in by engine vacuum whereas not running, it pools on the butterfly and finds the path of least resistance. If I can find the vacuum leak is from somewhere else, I’ll deal with the leak for now.

 

[MDH33]

Could it just be running overly rich? Any difference in the leak and how it runs when you tweak air/fuel and idle? How does float lvl look?

 

[Skreddy]

Float level is good, fuel just at the bottom of the dot in the sight glass. It’s definitely a vacuum leak. Covering the end of the throttle blade shaft makes a noticeable improvement. I did a smoke test yesterday and smoke came out of the end of throttle shaft pretty easily going to look into it further today.

 

[EWheeler]

Float level is good, fuel just at the bottom of the dot in the sight glass. It’s definitely a vacuum leak. Covering the end of the throttle blade shaft makes a noticeable improvement. I did a smoke test yesterday and smoke came out of the end of throttle shaft pretty easily going to look into it further today.

That sucks. Like you said, maybe just need a new throttle body. If you decide to ditch that carb right now and go sniper, I'd be interested in the rest of it for spare parts.

 

[pjohnson]

I had a similar situation with a 72 carb and was told a little seepage is normal. I chose not to try to fix it as I was able to get it running pretty good after going through the ignition and carb systems.

But I did search for throttle shaft bushing repair kit on Amazon and found what I would have used. I don't recall the exact kit, but I'm sure you could find it to fit the OD of the shaft.

The real beeyotch is getting the tiny screws out to remove the butterfly plates.

 

[Skreddy]

I am hoping to finish bleeding brakes today then drive it. I’ve got it running “good enough” to take for a little drive and warm it up to see if I can tune it out. Then I’ll see what the plan is.

 

[MDH33]

I am hoping to finish bleeding brakes today then drive it. I’ve got it running “good enough” to take for a little drive and warm it up to see if I can tune it out. Then I’ll see what the plan is.

I just replaced all 8 wheel cylinders in my `69. Omg, bleeding all those was such a pain! 3 bottles of dot3 and I still don't have good pedal. going to revisit it when the weather warms up.

 

[Skreddy]

I was able to take it for a drive, about 3 miles total. I cannot get a decent brake pedal; it will stop but it’s more like a gradual slowdown. I’m not convinced this master is good. It came with it and the guy said he’d been having a hard time getting a good pedal. I think it’s for a late 80’s FJ62? I’m debating on either an FZJ80 non-ABS master or one from a late 70’s FJ40. I plan to keep the rear drums so I’m not sure yet which way to go.

On to the carb. It is not keeping a consistent fuel level: sometimes it’s so full fuel comes out the vents and sometimes it runs dry. Something up with the needle and seat. But the throttle shaft is definitely where my leak is and it’s bad enough that closing the mixture screw all the way won’t kill it. So I pulled the carb and pulled that throttle shaft. There’s a lot of “wiggle” to the shaft. Looks like about .015” of difference between the shaft and bore diameters which seems excessive. Shaft does not look worn. I’ve got an idea to try; going to use a super skinny o-ring on each end between the washer and carb body to see if it will seal it up without causing any binding.

 

[Skreddy]

As I was figuring, the o-ring was too thick and I couldn’t even turn the throttle shaft. I had some brass shim stock and stamped out some .010” brass shim washers and that did the trick. Took up all the slop on the shaft and it’s running much better. I think there’s still a little vacuum leak but it’s very manageable. I also dropped the float height a little and the fuel level is a little better in the sight glass. There was tons of junk in the float bowl, even with new lines and I cleaned out the tank and a new filter. Must’ve been the pump to carb line that I reused and cleaned out with brake clean and compressed air.
I swapped the master cylinder for one with a non-abs 80 series. Waaaaaaay better! I need to bleed a little more for a stiffer pedal but it will stop pretty well so far. Now on to some minor electrical to get blinkers working and I think it’s a driver!

 

[firemanj92]

As I was figuring, the o-ring was too thick and I couldn’t even turn the throttle shaft. I had some brass shim stock and stamped out some .010” brass shim washers and that did the trick. Took up all the slop on the shaft and it’s running much better. I think there’s still a little vacuum leak but it’s very manageable. I also dropped the float height a little and the fuel level is a little better in the sight glass. There was tons of junk in the float bowl, even with new lines and I cleaned out the tank and a new filter. Must’ve been the pump to carb line that I reused and cleaned out with brake clean and compressed air.
I swapped the master cylinder for one with a non-abs 80 series. Waaaaaaay better! I need to bleed a little more for a stiffer pedal but it will stop pretty well so far. Now on to some minor electrical to get blinkers working and I think it’s a driver!
View attachment 2874228View attachment 2874225View attachment 2874226View attachment 2874227

Nice job, would a mylar washer found at any ace hardware work, it may help with sealing too. They are about the same thickness.

 

[Skreddy]

That’s what I was originally looking for but my local ace didn’t have them, or have a clue what I was talking about. I plan on doing a sniper at some point soonish so this is mainly to get it running good enough to work out bugs before I dump the money on that.

 

[EWheeler]

As I was figuring, the o-ring was too thick and I couldn’t even turn the throttle shaft. I had some brass shim stock and stamped out some .010” brass shim washers and that did the trick. Took up all the slop on the shaft and it’s running much better. I think there’s still a little vacuum leak but it’s very manageable. I also dropped the float height a little and the fuel level is a little better in the sight glass. There was tons of junk in the float bowl, even with new lines and I cleaned out the tank and a new filter. Must’ve been the pump to carb line that I reused and cleaned out with brake clean and compressed air.
I swapped the master cylinder for one with a non-abs 80 series. Waaaaaaay better! I need to bleed a little more for a stiffer pedal but it will stop pretty well so far. Now on to some minor electrical to get blinkers working and I think it’s a driver!
View attachment 2874228View attachment 2874225View attachment 2874226View attachment 2874227

You can get a whole new blinker arm housing assembly and switch for under $100. Probably best money ive spent on the inside of the truck!!
I posted the part numer here somewhere recently. Glad she is running better. Merry christmas Skreddy!

 

[MDH33]

You can get a whole new blinker arm housing assembly and switch for under $100. Probably best money ive spent on the inside of the truck!!
I posted the part numer here somewhere recently. Glad she is running better. Merry christmas Skreddy!

Post that part number if you find it. I need one too.

Keep up the good progress skreddy

 

[EWheeler]

Post that part number if you find it. I need one too.

Keep up the good progress skreddy

Well i guess i just linked to someone else that posted the part number and a photo, here is the original post where i realized you could still get these parts new, post #36:

1971 FJ40 - PNW Blue Patina

I'm thinking about updating my rear lighting. Did a quick photoshop on my thoughts. Adding a 3rd Brake light. I saw a few posts of other Mud members doing this. Placement seems to be everywhere. Roof, rear hatch, etc. Unsure about this one as cutting into the body makes me a bit apprehensive...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Skreddy]

For the blinker assembly: 84310-60022. But don’t rush out and buy one because mine is so sloppy I can adjust it to get only left or right to work, so I need to order one.

 

[Skreddy]

I spent the last couple days working on electrical. The PO’s didn’t hack too much so it wasn’t bad. Got everything electrical working: heater blowers, all lights, signals, brake lights, gauges, wipers. The wipers suck but it’s because they need new blades. I drove it 20-30 miles today with multiple stops and starts. It’s running great, a lot more engine noise than my 71 but I actually think it’s the 6 blade fan moving more air than the stock metal 4 blade. Took the family down to get gas after my own errands. Glad to be driving a 40 again. I think next up is blinker switch assembly, maybe city racers headlights, leds in the dash lights and a speedo cable. No new pics so poser snow pics from Xmas is all I’ve got.

 

[Skreddy]

I figured I’d update with some relevant part information, mostly to help myself later on but in case anyone else needs it.
For the lift, I ordered the components individually, used stock shackles. They are procomp 2.5” lift springs, part EXP31252 for fronts, EXP31253 for rears, EXP50090 for u bolt kit.
I used the same Bilstein 5100 series shocks at all 4 corners; 33-185606. The earlier cruisers have the shocks mounted in a higher location on the rear axle so the same shock can be used front and rear.
Frame side shackle bushings are Energy Suspension 8.2105G.

Brake system. This cruiser came with 9mm fittings. I converted to 10mm and ran all new nicopp lines. Rear wheel cylinders I just ordered for a 78 because I knew those didn’t use the banjo and the lines were directly screwed in. Front brakes are 85 Toyota pickup (full knuckle swap).
The master cylinder I ordered for a 1991 Landcruiser (rear port to front brakes). The booster is from a 86-89 4Runner (was on it when I bought it) and uses an unknown brand spacer to clear the firewall rib. (This was a single circuit, non-boosted 40). There is no carb/air cleaner interference with this setup.
I also used a later model (78?) FJ40 clutch master cylinder that is shorter in order to clear the booster. I still had to grind about 1/8” off the end of the clutch master to clear the booster. It cleared without this but I wanted a little more.
Clutch soft hose is a 92 Toyota pickup rear brake hose, about 17” long.
Both frame to axle rubber brake hoses are 02 Tundra rear brake hoses, about 20” long.
The rubber brake hoses on the axle to knuckle are 1981-1990 Landcruiser outer brake hoses.

That’s all I can think of for now in my custom application parts mash up.

 

[Skreddy]

Waaaaaaaaay back in November, I picked up new front bench seat covers from Cruiser Corps on their Black Friday sale. My wife is not real fond of sitting on the current, home made covers, complete with stains of unknown origin and life status. My kids seem to have no problem eating dropped Goldfish crackers off these nasty things.
I went with black covers, as the rear seats were recovered in black at some point, still look good and I didn’t feel like spending the money just to change to gray covers all around. So recovering a front split bench, here I go!
Look at this jewel!

Not so bad, until you get it in better light…. And I know what you’re all thinking; how, in good conscience, can you do these projects on that beautiful patterned Berber carpet?! I know, sacrifices. Sorry to anyone that has and actually loves their patterned Berber carpet.

So off with the nasty covers to find some extra foam was installed on the back portion, but looks original on the lower seat.

 

[Skreddy]

All stripped down, I found 3 issues but only 2 major/minor ones.
There is a broken nut on the frame where the side plate attaches that will need welded.

There’s also a broken spring tab on the back section that will need welded. Luckily the broken piece was in the seat.

The easiest issue was just some of the smaller springs and clips that locate the coils in the lower seat had shifted or become disconnected. Those will get sorted out and once the welding is done, I can get on reassembly.