Builds Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto (3 Viewers)

[Skreddy]

I was able to get the lift installed, disc swap finished and built the brake lines for both axles. Still need to plumb from the master cylinder to each axle, build exhaust, driveline u joints and some other little things. Hoping it’s drivable by this weekend. Really happy with the stance of the 2.5” procomp lift, bilstein shocks and General Grabber X3 33x10.5’s on stock disc brake wheels. Tires measure right at 32.25” tall with weight on them.

 

[EWheeler]

I was able to get the lift installed, disc swap finished and built the brake lines for both axles. Still need to plumb from the master cylinder to each axle, build exhaust, driveline u joints and some other little things. Hoping it’s drivable by this weekend. Really happy with the stance of the 2.5” procomp lift, bilstein shocks and General Grabber X3 33x10.5’s on stock disc brake wheels. Tires measure right at 32.25” tall with weight on them. View attachment 2845557View attachment 2845559

G.D., you move too fast! Looking terrific.

 

[Skreddy]

G.D., you move too fast! Looking terrific.

Haha! I work an odd schedule, lots of nights and weekends so I end up with stints available to get a lot done, then a few days of nothing. But yes, Skreddy’s are fast at everything….

 

[Skreddy]

A little buffing on the bib before getting it back on and some scotch brite and simple green to liberate the original Cygnus white from under the bright white spray paint that was put on at some point. Went a little deep in a few spots but it fits the original/survivor look so it stays. I notice now TOYOTA doesn’t look straight that will get fixed

 

[MDH33]

I was able to get the lift installed, disc swap finished and built the brake lines for both axles. Still need to plumb from the master cylinder to each axle, build exhaust, driveline u joints and some other little things. Hoping it’s drivable by this weekend. Really happy with the stance of the 2.5” procomp lift, bilstein shocks and General Grabber X3 33x10.5’s on stock disc brake wheels. Tires measure right at 32.25” tall with weight on them. View attachment 2845559

That setup looks great. Wish I had learned more about the options before I did mine. The old man emu rear springs seem short and move the tire really close to the fender and shackle angle is poor. Yours has good angle and tire is right where it should be.

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve read a lot where people thought the OME springs were short. I’ve had a skyjacker on an FJ40 in the past and was happy with it and read good reviews on the redline landcruisers package that uses the procomp kit. I was between those 2 and it came down to a mix of price and how soon I could get it. Everybody seems to be out of stock of everything right now. I also wanted the bilstein shocks and figured out I could get just springs from procomp and then get the shocks I wanted.
Comparing the stock springs, the procomp springs center pin is about 1/2”-3/4” further centered (forward on fronts, rearward on rears) so it did move the axles just a little.

 

[Skreddy]

Oh glorious day! It runs! Finished the exhaust, topped off fluids and it fired right up, idles great, started checking for leaks…. And found one! Either the head gasket is blown between cylinder 2 and 3 or there’s a crack in the head right there. Coolant started dribbling out when running and continued after I shut it off until the level was below the head. Off it comes. Bummer. It’s not coming from the freeze plug like the pic looks; that’d be too easy.

 

[Skreddy]

Luck is not on my side with this one. Block is cracked right above that freeze plug for an inch or two; this really blows.
If anyone has a good 1F for sale, I know a guy looking for one. Or, I guess I’ll be reading up on 2F swaps.

 

[MDH33]

That's a bummer. did you drive it much prior to your initial tear down? Seems like it would have been leaking then too.

 

[Skreddy]

Only drove it from the shippers trailer to the garage. PO said it was running and driving, no leaks. I’m thinking there must not have been enough coolant in it to seep out there, or the crusty crud all over it was holding it in.

 

[rainingagain]

Bummer. We are probably not there yet with scarcity of the 1f and repairing cracks like this, but check out these guys: Metal Stitching & Thread Repair Inserts. - Turlock , CA - LOCK-N-STITCH, Inc - http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html

Now, I have no experience with them. I've just seen them on Jay Leno's Garage, but cool stuff.

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve seen that stitching and know a guy that used it on his cracked cummins with success.

 

[MDH33]

There was a guy selling a complete F in South Dakota. I wanted the top end, manifolds and carb. Maybe we could split it?

 

[Skreddy]

Hoping to find something closer. Messaged a local guy with a running F motor he pulled for a V8 swap. I may have top end and manifolds available soon though! I debated having it welded or JimBob welded, but I know id never trust it. Maybe someone else will want yo take the chance.

 

[Skreddy]

I got the running F engine from the local guy….. Running is not very accurate. Got there and couldn’t spin it over so I figured there may be moisture in a cylinder or two. We made a deal for an amount I was comfortable losing if it turned out to be scrap. Pulled the head today and yep, 1 rusty cylinder. I sprayed some wd40 In the 5 good cylinders and white vinegar in the bad hole to start dissolving the rust. After an hour or so I could spin the engine by hand. I only turned it an 1/8 of a Rev or so, piston moving down. I’ll let it soak a little longer, clean it out then start disassembly to see if this block is savable with a hone job. Looks worse in pics than in person.
Still looking for an F or 2F…..

 

[Skreddy]

Well I picked up another F engine yesterday. Good compression, clean, no obvious leaks (or cracks), or noises. I cleaned it up today and pulled the cracked one out. Plan is for new seals and gaskets tomorrow since I may as well do it now while it’s out, paint it and mate to trans. Then Sunday aiming to get it in and running. A family Christmas party and a half sick kid are both looking to derail this plan.

 

[EWheeler]

@Skreddy
Before you throw that bad boy in, spend 30 minutes on the firewall where the T-case shift bracket and FD actuator live. I just unbolted mine and scrubbed with some CLR & laquer thinner and it came out looking 100% better. It just looks dirty in your photo vs. the otherside where leaking fluid has taken the paint away showing the primer. Maybe its stained and you already tried.....

Looking forward to seeing you get this thing on the road!

Before & After

 

[Skreddy]

I got in there with some simple green and really fine scotch brite. It’s what I did on the inner fenders too. Was just harder to reach in there and I didn’t feel like unbolting anything there. I may do it today though before I get the engine in.

 

[EWheeler]

I got in there with some simple green and really fine scotch brite. It’s what I did on the inner fenders too. Was just harder to reach in there and I didn’t feel like unbolting anything there. I may do it today though before I get the engine in.

It's literally 2 min to unbolt both those items with a 10 or 12mm socket. Shift bracket easily detaches from inside lever with a small pin for full removal. You'll be happy you did it now while it's very accessible!

 

[Skreddy]

Success! It runs! But I have a pretty good leak at the carb primary throttle shaft. I have a vacuum leak causing a hanging idle and tuning problems and I suspect it’s that shaft. The leak is bad enough that a squirt of the accelerator pump will cause fuel to trickle out of there; not just a seep.
No pics but ewheeler, I cleaned that firewall area up before I stuck the engine back in and glad I did. Looks much better.