Builds Skips FJ 35 BUILD (2 Viewers)

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Well I worked on the hydraulic assist and got the bracket made out of lighter metal just to make sure that it would work correctly shown in the pics for the preliminary fit. Now i have the patterns made i can transfer the lines to a thicker metal and jazz the shape up and make the final adjustments and it will be ready to go.Additionally i started to lay out the sliders and making up a materialist a great day was had.



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I did something similar on FOO. I would add more material in the area I shaded below.

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I did something similar on FOO. I would add more material in the area I shaded below.

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Tnx for the suggestion, the part as you see it is to just get the layout or dementions and spacing so it cycled properly. Now it go’s to the cad table for a design build which will include structure mods to make it structurally strong as well as eye appealing before the rear ended unite gets it powder coating. The steel thickness i will be using is .250.
 
I am sure you have thought about this, but on my 80 I had to have the hoses pointed down, otherwise I had conflict with the oil pan at flex.

On your mockup, down appears to conflict with the drag link when you turn and it moves forward.

Just something I am sure you have figured out, but wanted to mention.
 
I am sure you have thought about this, but on my 80 I had to have the hoses pointed down, otherwise I had conflict with the oil pan at flex.

On your mockup, down appears to conflict with the drag link when you turn and it moves forward.

Just something I am sure you have figured out, but wanted to mention.
Sure is food for thought, and after sleeping on it last night i used my other project as part of the set up. Both of them are using mercedes’ 606 as power plants. the other is a stockish 45 is spring under and with that set up would be a problem, but i am just going with a plain sag box and no hydraulic assist and that should be plenty of power for steering as i am just going with 33” tires. This is a bit different with spring over on this one and that gives me at least 4” extra of height to play with, I think i will be ok. The real issue is going to get in an out of the truck still haven’t got clarity on that yet but that is another problem for another day.
 
Had a day off today so i thought i would tackle the safari windshield. Basically in good shape except right in the middle where a po did some repair and it was strictly from hunger so when i got in there i had to go farther to get the rust beatles out. Anyhow cut out the bad parts make your piece and fit it in making sure all surfaces are level and start stitching it in not to go too fast or you will shrink the metal around it. Grind with course down to fine again not heating it up and the pics show what it should look like when you are done. Lastly a light skim of filler and you are done.

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The metal came in last week so i started on the sliders. I spent a bit of time kinda planning as i went and goodness many angles boy i am glad with the rough in as it sets. Just have it tacked to hold it in place to check the fit. The other side will take less time . i did hold it up to the other side and it fit perfectly lucked out body is on the frame straight and everything matches. Pics are not the best but i will get the finals with better detail

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Got a new welder to me a Miller 252 very little use and what a difference from my Miller 175 it just gave up, needed a capacitor and some resistors which weren’t available any more. I had it for 15-20 years and fabed many things, however the 252 is wow much more sophisticated and a pleasure to use. Wish i would have done it sooner. This made some mods to the seat frames so the twin sticks would have enough room for them to work. Here are the pics to show what i was talking about using my new cell a14 pro max with the wide angle . still working on the trans opening.
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I was so excited to see your update. I am motivated by seeing everyone else making progress on their projects.....

but, educate me.... what is the purpose of this section....

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Just tied it into the Tub structure and gives it a bit more strength along with the floor and the below frame of the tub.
 
Got ambitious and took a bunch of hardware to get gold zink coated. This is a bunch of nuts and bolts from many teardowns . mostly from my 45 and the 35 when it was a 40. the guy at A&A plating in Sacramento did a great job. Also included is the seat runners, tail gate chains that I will use 3 sets and some inside door parts and hardware. Some of the parts had to be handled separately however if i would have put them in with the general stuff it would have been hard to recognize them, they are in the individual plastic bags already separated. Next to separate and categorize them all. Not a fun job about 3 hours and i am done. I have been working on other things but need to get some pics coming soon.

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Here we go with the completion of the trans tunnel designed so i would not have to put a cross member brace over the top of the trans for support and strength. You will see the under the floor support and the center section tied together for strength. I stood up on it and there was no movement or flex. Getting the insert to fit the way i wanted was a time eater making sure it fit like a glove. the bell housing is about 95 % done and the tail piece is complete. The space inbetween will have to be fabricated when the engine is installed. Top and sides of the insert were rosetted and ground off a nice day was had,
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feeling that i was able to put this part of the build to bed.

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good to see progress again... I need to get working on Vera again...
 
Hi guys got busy today and assembled two roller platform carts one for my metal cutoff saw and the larger one for placing body parts on so i can open up shop space when I have a need for work space when they are off the frame. I guess i have out grown my shop but this will give me a reprieve to open it up a bit.

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