It's a little cheaper at Lowes and not rebranded, although amazingly enough, my local O'Reillys has it in stock. So that might be worth the $25 in a pinch.
Single battery recommendations
- Thread starter kcjaz
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I prefer the bolt style terminals. Worth $25 to me. I will be making a custom aluminum bar terminal block.
I have the Australian HKB voltage booster in my 2013 LC. It boosts the voltage past 13 volts so the batteries get charged. I also have an onboard dual battery charger so when I'm parked the batteries get fully charged.
Toyota | HKB Electronics
The Alternator Voltage Booster was the first of its type on the market and is the only unit available that was has been purpose built for alternator voltage boosting.
www.hkbelect.com
Ill be making another post as to why I think it’s happened, but my battery is now toast…
Ive read through these battery discussions multiple times and in each thread it is 50/50 on AGM vs SLA. And its a pretty vocal 50% on both sides.
Given my 2017 ECU controlling charge i don’t think AGM is even doable? I wouldn’t mind having a spill proof deep discharge battery even if its a bit heavier but not if it wont make it past 3 years reliably at 4-5x the cost.
I can get a 27f at costco for $99, or spend a bit more for the 31 and a slee tray and get a larger battery. Either way if it lasts another 5 years thats 2x the longevity for cost of one agm setup.
I am not wheeling this thing yet but im a doomsday prepper and dependability is important to me. At the same time ive been dealing with leaks, corrosion and top off of the SLA and would not want to battery tend the AGM unless its a couple times a year. Anything more than that is asking for trouble if im out of town, or otherwise unable to keep tabs on the charge. But even then i would not get the longevity from it would i?
As far as an SLA is interstate good? Or should i pay more for the deka? Costco warranty will obv be the best.
Thanks and sorry to beat this
again.
Ive read through these battery discussions multiple times and in each thread it is 50/50 on AGM vs SLA. And its a pretty vocal 50% on both sides.
Given my 2017 ECU controlling charge i don’t think AGM is even doable? I wouldn’t mind having a spill proof deep discharge battery even if its a bit heavier but not if it wont make it past 3 years reliably at 4-5x the cost.
I can get a 27f at costco for $99, or spend a bit more for the 31 and a slee tray and get a larger battery. Either way if it lasts another 5 years thats 2x the longevity for cost of one agm setup.
I am not wheeling this thing yet but im a doomsday prepper and dependability is important to me. At the same time ive been dealing with leaks, corrosion and top off of the SLA and would not want to battery tend the AGM unless its a couple times a year. Anything more than that is asking for trouble if im out of town, or otherwise unable to keep tabs on the charge. But even then i would not get the longevity from it would i?
As far as an SLA is interstate good? Or should i pay more for the deka? Costco warranty will obv be the best.
Thanks and sorry to beat this
again.
I’ll throw out my plan, but I haven’t done any of this yet.
I’m not going to get into the FLA vs AGM debate, but will say I’m going FLA. In central AR, ORielly stocks the Deka battery under their house brand, so can get one quick if needed.
Teckis300 has a post documenting the group 31 by modifying the OEM tray.
The biggest “hurdle” is getting an extended clamp/post, since the Deka battery has center posts. SDHQ has some nice distribution clamps that may be the EZ button on that.
I’m not going to get into the FLA vs AGM debate, but will say I’m going FLA. In central AR, ORielly stocks the Deka battery under their house brand, so can get one quick if needed.
Teckis300 has a post documenting the group 31 by modifying the OEM tray.
The biggest “hurdle” is getting an extended clamp/post, since the Deka battery has center posts. SDHQ has some nice distribution clamps that may be the EZ button on that.
I literally just got back from oreilly and picked up the super start fleet heavy duty 31P. Stamped feb/2022 nice and fresh!
It was in stock luckily for me since im dealing with 2 jumps now to leave the house and i couldn’t wait for the lowes order.
Gonna ghetto install this for now with some clamp extensions until i order some good ones and get a proper tray in. I did see
@TeCKis300 tray mod and give it a shot to save the slee tax money.
Update.
For this Deka 31P / Super Start 31-5 there really is no need for a tray or a clamp. There is a 1/4” overhang on one side and its about 1/2” short in length. You really should just snip and flatten the left edge of the factory plastic tray since this battery is sealed anyway. I dont see the point of spending $150 on a slee tray. Now the extensions are a different story and serve other uses as well.
One thing to note on the install is you will need to find a longer bolt for the oem clamps front claw to reach its threads. As you can see I forced mine a bit and its not clamping down with its front pad but holding it back. Theres a slight bend in the top plastic trim from it ill need to fix once i clean this up. I would suggest that bolt and a thick rubber elbow separator for that front portion to grap front edge and push down correctly.
Here it is, glad i could find this on a whim.
For this Deka 31P / Super Start 31-5 there really is no need for a tray or a clamp. There is a 1/4” overhang on one side and its about 1/2” short in length. You really should just snip and flatten the left edge of the factory plastic tray since this battery is sealed anyway. I dont see the point of spending $150 on a slee tray. Now the extensions are a different story and serve other uses as well.
One thing to note on the install is you will need to find a longer bolt for the oem clamps front claw to reach its threads. As you can see I forced mine a bit and its not clamping down with its front pad but holding it back. Theres a slight bend in the top plastic trim from it ill need to fix once i clean this up. I would suggest that bolt and a thick rubber elbow separator for that front portion to grap front edge and push down correctly.
Here it is, glad i could find this on a whim.
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Good information, so I have a 1996 FZJ80 , does the stock alternator put out the correct voltage to maintain an Odyssey, or other AGM batteries like the X2 from Batteries Plus?
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So I'm curious what you think you'll gain with an AGM over FLA/SFLA? I've got a Deka tractor battery (group 31) in the 200 now and it's been wonderful and still works with the stock checking profile/alternator.
I've just heard that AGM's have more capacity.
Maybe that's not true?
A battery dealer told me that.
But regarding the first question, about charging capacity needed for AGM batteries. I was still wondering if the stock alternator on my 1996 FZJ80 puts out enough juice to adequately charge the high end AGM batteries like the Odyssey, and the X2 batteries?
bloc
SILVER Star
Battery dealers have a vested interest in selling their most expensive “drop in” batteries. Doesn’t mean they are the best choice for the end user.
If a charging system was designed for flooded lead acid, it will not have the correct profile for AGM without modification. Basically it needs a bit more voltage than your 200 makes stock to be truly charged.
The stock group 27 is actually a pretty high capacity battery, and ditching that in favor of a group 31 will add much more than a simple AGM swap. Note that a 31 does require changes to the tray, strap, and terminals. For that reason it doesn’t make sense for my use case. But electrically your vehicle is already set up to run it without compromise.
What is your use case for the battery? Are you using it only as a starter battery? Or with a winch, or as a dual purpose with "house" loads? It's hard for me to believe dealers anymore. They're simply trying to sell their product. I would say if you're using your battery in any of the cases above that a larger (S)FLA like the Deka 1131PMF would be a better solution.
At least on the 200 series, the alternator can't put out the because voltage to completely charge an AGM. This has lead others to trickle charge the AGM just to keep from running it low and killing it. I don't know anything about the 80 series, but this AGM thing feels like a solution looking for a problem. If you have house loads then an AGM isn't the solution. A second battery (with appropriate DCDC charger) would be the solution. Keep in mind that charging that house battery would mean driving an appropriate amount of time and the your starter battery won't charge much/at all until that DCDC charger stops charging.
If you have significant winching or lighting requirements, then a second (S)FLA battery that's tied to the primary (using a battery disconnect) sounds like the right solution.
