Show off your 100 beast with 35's..... (1 Viewer)

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Let the man have his 35" tire picture thread!

We already have a pic thread, the issues other folks have is that this is supposed to be a tech section and technically you don't just slap them on and go off-road.
If you do and your not rubbing then you're not flexing the truck on real obstacles. Many technical issues must be addressed along with 35's and that is the point that needs to get across here because this is a technical off-road forum.
 
What's the current link to the already made thread regarding 100's on 35's?
 
Every other forum out there has multiple pic threads...then multiple sticky threads of pics per wheel and brand as well...like say my350z.com, or s2ki...they have stickys for just volks, or works, or daytona blue cars or this or that...having one pic thread is retarded, it's way to diverse. I was personally happy to see a 35's only pic thread...instead of searching through hundreds of pages of random pics to try find 100's on 35's.....it's a forum who cares how many pic threads there are...
 
I was personally happy to see a 35's only pic thread...instead of searching through hundreds of pages of random pics to try find 100's on 35's.....


And I agree. I searched high and low for one and wasn't able to find one, so I decided to just start one. I hope it continues cause I know I'd like to see those 100 Series with 35's. Maybe there's a few others who'd like to also.

I didn't mean for this to be a back-and-forth about tech stuff, smack talking and so forth. Just pics of 100's with 35's. Initially, it seemed like an easy concept. Thank to all those who have posted and chimed in.
 

Man, you've got some great search skills. Thanks for pointing out all of those threads. I've seen them all. Most of them ask for, and recommend, changes and ideas for those wanting 35's. All I was hoping for was a thread of straight up pics with 100's with 35's. Not with all of the rest of the stuff that can easily be found; as you clearly were able to do. I do appreciate it though. There's some great ideas and technical stuff in those for those who may be wanting to, or who already have, made the jump to 35's.
 
@OP: I like this thread. If it was "post your truck on 33s", that would be lame. 35s are the biggest anyone seems to be doing and I like that you've started a thread for pics. the negative Nancys, there is no limit to the number of threads or posts on the interwebs.
 
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Here's some tech if you really want to run 35's AND take your truck offroad. You can actually see the difference on the trail. Jonharis, bluecruiser and I all ran some trails in Moab together. Jonathan was running his 33's that week. There were things that bluecruiser and I cleared on 35s that Jonathan touched with his 33s. Also, you need a body lift. Otherwise your tire will eat the fender wells. Your truck flexes MUCH more than you think when it's truly taxed and off camber. Once you do the body lift, you NEED to lower the radiator 1 inch, I promise. Or, you can just cut the shroud. Again, when your truck is stressed, the fan will hit the shroud. It sounds like a machine gun.

And, you'll need to add a steering spacer to get your steering back normal. The steering shaft passes through the fire wall slightly off center, and it will touch the plate just below the rag joint and rattle. You need to separate the shaft at the joint and use a dremel tool with a side cut bit to reshape that hole. Additionally, the shaft will be stressed at the rag joint and your steering will feel very tight, the spacer should relieve that stress. Also, without the body lift, any big hits at speed will stuff and crumple your fenders. And you need spacers. And 35s weigh more, it takes more force to get them turning and get them stopped. You're more apt to blow your front diff or break an axle.

On the opposite spectrum, this weekend on Black Bear, I had to make 3 or 4 point turns on the switchbacks with 35's where as AimCOtaco could do it in 2 on his 33's. I don't have the turn radius that he does anymore. Sometimes the 35 is beneficial, sometimes it's not.
 
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Two biggest threads right now:

100's in Hills = Everybody lovin', huggin', and singin'
35s on Beasts = Everybody hatin'.

Lol. :bang:
 
Two biggest threads right now:

100's in Hills = Everybody lovin', huggin', and singin'
35s on Beasts = Everybody hatin'.

Lol. :bang:

An old boss of mine once told me,"It's when they stop talking about you, is when you should start to worry."
 
Hey guys, I'd like to set things right here. I think the points that were made were all valid on both viewpoints. I think there is some good tech to be had here as well. As opposed to merely showing your 35s. Discussing the merits of 35s, the steps needed to properly fit them and the long term positives and negatives would add value to the forum. It's been said before, there are literally a hundred threads about 35" tires out there but none really go anywhere as far as photos of multiple trucks in different configurations. IMHO, The tone of several people in this thread on both sides has been pretty uncalled for, myself included. I think if this thread would have started with some tech it would have been received better. A photo in a driveway, while looking great is hardly representative of what 35s are really like on a truck. Perhaps a complete restart of the thread is in order? This is 100 series tech and the communinty and moderators expect a certain amount of tech in threads posts. Before you compare it to the 100s in the Hills again, please keep in mind that the 100s thread was pre-approved by the moderators and it is a unique, never before attempted event for this marque. The thread will ultimately reside in Trails-Events-Expeditions after some publicity here.

I'll start from scratch with my story.

I decided to run 35s a year ago when running with several other 100s that had them. I would always watch their lines and duplicate them with varying degrees of success. The takeaway for me was, YES, absolutely, the 1" elevation gained with a 35" tire was worth the work needed to run them. At the time I was regeared to 4.88s, and running front Slee 1" spacers. I was running BFG AT in 285/65R18. While these tires excelled on pavement and gravel roads, they were less than adequate for real wheeling. The lack of a real sidewall lead to multiple punctures over two years. I went through 16 tires in that timeframe, all thankfully roadhazarded. I've come to the conclusion that if you must run 18" wheels you need to run a tire with a 70-85 aspect ratio, which means running a tall skinny 35. Costs are a significant factor in these as they usually tend to be more expensive.

I wanted to go a more traditional, less expensive and more off-road oriented approach. I wanted to keep my 18s for winter and for long dirt road trips like the Baja or Mojave where I think they will still excel but run a very aggressive, very high profile tire for my typical driving. In the mountains of Colorado and the slickrock of utah, traction and footprint are key. I chose a 315/75R16 in the Nitto Trail Grappler variety. This is an incredibly well made Japanese tire from the same company that makes Toyo. I've known and driven with half a dozen people that run this tire and the overwhelming opinion is that they are amazing. They have one weakness, Snow. I opted to have mine siped at the distributor (Discount Tire Direct, Disclaimer, I do not pay full price for my tires so I won't comment on value) with a very shallow, center 2/3 sipe. I ran them this weekend for the first time at 100s in the Hills.

Steps needed to run a 315/75R16 in a true off-road environment.

Sure you can probably run this size at the mall with little modification, the tall skinny 35s on 18" wheels can be run with almost no modification. As soon as you hit a serious trail though you will notice a few things.

Power: in my opinion, the lack of power running 35s without regeraring is completely unacceptable. Now, it's very important to note that I live at 4500 feet and those at or near sea level will not have these issues. For those living in the mountains you WILL want to regear to 4.88s. If you don't the advantages of the taller tire will be negated by the lack of torque and low speed control. I would go as far as to say for my application, Marlin's low range transfer gears are a must. Both of the aboce can be sourced through Carl at Just differentials/Nitro Gear. He can walk you through every step of the way.

Clearance: The first spot to check is at the UCA knuckle. Many a tire has been destroyed from rubbing there. I ran 1" spacers even with 33s to even the track width. I am now running 1.25" Slee spacers up front and 1" spacers in the rear. I now have zero rubbing issues on the UCAs or in the fender wells. I do have rubbing on the pinch weld aft of the front tire. This is easily remedied with a BFH and a few well placed blows.

Body Lift: I'm separating this from clearance because there is so much too it. I purchased components for my body lift from Spressomon and later from Jonesey's. Both kits are excellent. I wanted the steering spacers and radiator brackets from Jonsey's so I got them later when my truck was torn down. 1" is about the maximum BL possible without going off the deep end. It provides the clearance for 35s. Do not expect this to be an easy process. If you are moderately mechanical and don't have a lift or all those goodies plan on 8-14 hours to get the job done. And it's 8-14 long tedious and painfull hours of pulling interiors, breaking seized bolts, dangerously balancing the truck and putting it all back together only to find that the steering or the radiator or something is not lined up. It will take time to get everything feeling good and it will likely never be as good as it was. It can get darn close, but not perfect.

Reliability: it would be exceedingly stupid to run a 35" tire on a truck you intended to take around the world, or on a mall cruiser, or one that you planned to take to Baja for extended travels. There not only is zero benefit, there are multiple reliability issues. You WILL go through CV shafts more often and you WILL go through steering racks more often. In addition you will likely wear out general front end components faster. The 5-10% performance gain should be weighed in the decision.

Other: I have had no issues with anything other than above but be aware that there could be many other driveline related issues that come up with running 35s.

That's all there is too it. Is it worth it to me. I think so. It it worth it for most people. Absolutely not.

Then again, your truck will look bad.











3 out of 4 have 35s. All perform nearly identically.


















 
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Excellent post and great info.
 
Great post Jon. Agree with you on most of it, but want to add one critical item: Braking. The leverage arm of a 35 significantly different than a 33 (or a 31 for that matter!). Takes you much longer to stop, higher brake forces are required along with the resulting heat buildup. Spresso didn't spend $4k on big brakes for nothin'!

I'm not sure where I stand on the 'round the world/reliability' argument. In theory, I agree that more force always equals harder wear on the rig. However, I don't see a preponderance of broken CV's on 35s, but there aren't that many anyway. The diff, yes probably more so, although I don't recall any ring failures on ARB lockers. But I guess this just points back to your argument that 35s require a well built rig to be a competent overlanding tool.

I guess the last point I want to make is more general and that is I don't get the whole urgency/specialness of the 100s in the Hills thread staying in 100 Tech! Leave it here forever I say! It's a 100 event! The problem with Tech here isn't that we have threads like that, but conversely that we have Tech topics outside of Tech forums that make it hard to search. If you ever poke around in some of the regional forums there's a lot of non-regional discussion going on. A lot of it model-specific Tech. And speaking of search challenges, while I love the 'what did you do to your XXX threads', they end up being a search problem later because they only give a brief glimpse at something you want to know about but isn't expanded upon because the topic gets changed so frequently.

Anyway, great contribution. I really enjoy well thought out responses like yours from people who have the opportunity to spend much more time in the field than I ever will.
 
I was going to attach a picture with the mall in the background but I liked this one better

ForumRunner_20130808_224230.jpg

ForumRunner_20130808_224230.jpg
 
My jackarsery got the better of me. Sorry, that's not really reflective of who I am. Those that know me know that.

image-3029966736.jpg
 
Great post Jon. All well said and much appreciated. The types of questions I on r had have now been answered solely in your post. Now all of the blanks on the drawing board have been filled.
 
On the opposite spectrum, this weekend on Black Bear, I had to make 3 or 4 point turns on the switchbacks with 35's where as AimCOtaco could do it in 2 on his 33's. I don't have the turn radius that he does anymore. Sometimes the 35 is beneficial, sometimes it's not.
This is something I have not noticed. Could you have had you CDL locked while AimCOtaco had his CDL open? Are your turnstops re-adjusted? In any case, I'm quite impressed with the turning radius of the 100.
 
This is something I have not noticed. Could you have had you CDL locked while AimCOtaco had his CDL open? Are your turnstops re-adjusted? In any case, I'm quite impressed with the turning radius of the 100.

I too am impressed with the turning radius. My turn stops are adjusted slightly. I was open for all the turns as well. I would say that he took a better line than I did, but that really isn't an option. The trail just isn't wide enough.
 

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