Wheel specs for max tire size and no lift?

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I know that the max tires you can fit with no lift, 2003 LC for instance, is 285/65/18 but I presume this is for the stock wheels. What are the stock wheel specs, i.e., width and offset, and would the max tire size be the same for after market wheels that might be a bit wider or have a different offset? Lastly, are wheel spacers advisable on an LC to get a more flush look and wider stance?

thanks in advance.

ps- any chance anyone has pics of a sonora gold LC with a lift or on dark colored wheels?
 
there have been approximately 1.1M threads about this or something extremely similar...I am not usually one to suggest the "search" function....but for this I would definitely recommend it.
 
These pics may help you in your quest. godspeed.



























































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FAQ.webp
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FAQ.webp
 
I searched and checked the faq but was not able to find the answer to this question(s). Its more specific than I think you realize. Whats the max tire and offset combo on a 18" wheel w/o rubbing and w/o a lift? Its just not clear after reading a bunch of threads what the answer is. Thanks for the help.
 
I understand your question better now. Honestly, there are probably too many variables to properly answer that. For example, not all 285 width tires are the same width. Each manufacturer varies.

The further you push a wheel out via spacers or aftermarket wheel offset, the more likely you are to start rubbing at the back of the wheel well or at the top. Some of this can be easily fixed.

What are your goals? Is this just for looks or do you actually plan to get off the pavement? there are vary few people that run aftermarket wheels on here. Most actually get off the pavement and either believe that the OEM wheels are stronger than most aftermarket or (like me) I just can justify paying for aftermarket wheels that are going to get beat up on the trail....

It is probably going to take some trial and error on your part to find the perfect match. If you do spend some time searching on here, As I mentioned, there are a few that are running aftermarket tires. Might help you.
 
Just buy a set of tires that would be your best guess and see how they work for you.
If they don't work, stick them on Craigslist and try again. You may be out a hundred dollars or so, but I really don't think you'll need to try more than two sets of tires to get right.

Or... Some tire shops will mount a tire to see how it looks, you can always try that too!
 
I searched and checked the faq but was not able to find the answer to this question(s). Its more specific than I think you realize. Whats the max tire and offset combo on a 18" wheel w/o rubbing and w/o a lift? Its just not clear after reading a bunch of threads what the answer is. Thanks for the help.

I have installed 285 75 16 BFG All Terrains on my aftermarket Bradleys 16 x 9 with no spacers, no offset. No rubbing issues. My OEMs were 16 x 8.

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37's, just don't hit any bumps. I recommend lowering your bump stops down to where you'll just be riding on them constantly.

To truthfuly answer, I believe 285's, but have heard of some people running 295's. The tire brand also matters, as some are a "true 33" while others are 32" or something like that.
 
thanks all. i guess what im trying to understand is whether the largest recommended tire size, i.e., 285-65-18 or ~32.6", is dependent upon the wheel offset at all. where does the rubbing occur when it occurs with larger tires? for instance, if the rubbing is from the inside of the tire, toying with a wheel with a higher offset might make it possible to fit larger tires and still not rub. this would make 295-65-18 (33.1") or 305-60-18 (32.4" but wider) a more doable size with no lift, no?

similarly and assuming the stock wheel offset is +40, you might be able to get a wider or more aggressive stance on the truck with a smaller tire, perhaps just sticking with the 285s, by using a wheel or spacer combo with an offset of +30-35.
 
thanks all. i guess what im trying to understand is whether the largest recommended tire size, i.e., 285-65-18 or ~32.6", is dependent upon the wheel offset at all. where does the rubbing occur when it occurs with larger tires? for instance, if the rubbing is from the inside of the tire, toying with a wheel with a higher offset might make it possible to fit larger tires and still not rub. this would make 295-65-18 (33.1") or 305-60-18 (32.4" but wider) a more doable size with no lift, no?

similarly and assuming the stock wheel offset is +40, you might be able to get a wider or more aggressive stance on the truck with a smaller tire, perhaps just sticking with the 285s, by using a wheel or spacer combo with an offset of +30-35.

Again,

...there are probably too many variables to properly answer that. For example, not all 285 width tires are the same width. Each manufacturer varies.

The further you push a wheel out via spacers or aftermarket wheel offset, the more likely you are to start rubbing at the back of the wheel well or at the top. Some of this can be easily fixed.

What are your goals? Is this just for looks or do you actually plan to get off the pavement? there arevery few people that run aftermarket wheels on here. Most actually get off the pavement and either believe that the OEM wheels are stronger than most aftermarket or (like me) I just can justify paying for aftermarket wheels that are going to get beat up on the trail....

It is probably going to take some trial and error on your part to find the perfect match. If you do spend some time searching on here, As I mentioned, there are a few that are running aftermarket tires. Might help you.
 
Mxndrnks, I appreciated your initial response but you're not answering my questions nor do you seem to understand the questions. I understand not all tires are identical and that their width and shape vary. Thats not the issue. The stock wheels have a pretty conservative and tucked in offset so there is room as far as offset or stance to play with. As far as rubbing though, the question is where does it occur? For instance, full turn on inside of wheel well? rear or front of wheel well? Or maybe knowing what the widest tire (actual width and height) that fits is would be helpful. Put a different way, what wheel/tire/offset combo will fill the wheel wells to their maximum potential without rubbing and without needing a lift? If wheels and tires represent a cylindrical shape, there is a similarly shaped pocket in the wheel wells.

I have 33s on my tacoma and 20" wheels on my audi so I understand wheel fitment, trust me. I'm just trying to understand the 100s since they are obviously a much different vehicle than either of my other two.
 
The stock width is 8" with a +60mm offset. IMO, the ideal offset for the largest tire is somewhere between +45 to +60mm. Tire interference occurs:

-at the firewall (at the pinch weld) and the spot directly above it and towards the inside
-at the upper control arm ball joint on wider tires
-fender lip (big one)
-the fender liner part near the fender lip
-the area around the windshield wiper reservoir
-some say the frame but I've not experienced it

The tire most often contacts the outer "corner" of the tire. This is not in a tire specification. 285 width is the width of the bubbled out part of the sidewall. MT tires are often more "squared off" on the corners and usually will rub sooner in the same size as the AT or "all-season" tire.

Also, keep in the mind, when the front suspension is compressed, the wheel is pushed towards the outside.

The largest tire, to me, is diameter. To fit the largest diameter, choose the narrowest width.
 
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thanks. so going with a higher offset, say +45, would really mean sticking with a narrower tire. and my understanding of actual width is explain here: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=7 so when you say "bubbled out part" i assume you mean the actual overall width instead of section width, e.g., 285. is there any possibility that going with a lower offset like +65 would allow wider tires? since the tires in question are pretty much all wider than the wheels themselves, the wheel width isnt much of a factor. obviously a lift would solve all of this the easy way but im trying to postpone that for a while.
The stock width is 8" with a +60mm offset. IMO, the ideal offset for the largest tire is somewhere between +45 to +60mm. Tire interference occurs:

-at the firewall (at the pinch weld) and the spot directly above it and towards the inside
-at the upper control arm ball joint on wider tires
-fender lip (big one)
-the fender liner part near the fender lip
-the area around the windshield wiper reservoir
-some say the frame but I've not experienced it

The tire most often contacts the outer "corner" of the tire. This is not in a tire specification. 285 width is the width of the bubbled out part of the sidewall. MT tires are often more "squared off" on the corners and usually will rub sooner in the same size as the AT or "all-season" tire.

Also, keep in the mind, when the front suspension is compressed, the wheel is pushed towards the outside.

The largest tire, to me, is diameter. To fit the largest diameter, choose the narrowest width.
 
I understand completely what you are looking for and I promise I am not trying to be difficult. There are just VERY few people that run aftermarket wheels on here (maybe +/- a dozen?). And that has only really started to happen in the past year or so. So, really understanding exact numbers on wheel offset/tire size really hasnt been explored yet. Perhaps over on Club Lexus (anyone know?). As I mentioned, most on here run oem LC/LX wheels or Tundra wheels. So, all our knowledge is really based around that.

Hoser listed all the known rub spots. I have experienced all but at the Ball joint at some point with my BFG 295/75R/16's. When I first installed them I had slight rubbing at the frame. Easily fixed by adjusting the turn stops. When I went with aftermarket control arms I started getting some rubbing on the UCA arm even with the numbers within spec. Spacers caused rubbing in other places. Other places hoser mentioned only experienced rubbing off road in flex. So, knowing what your intentions with the truck are will also help. If you never leave the pavement, you may never experience the rubbing at some of the places mentioned. Another factor to consider is will you need to run chains? If so, that adds more to think about.

The general consensus is a 285 width tire (16 or 18) will fit a stock truck with no rubbing on factory wheels. I wish you luck in your search and if you figure a combo that works, please post it up. It would be useful to others!

Cheers.
 
sickspeed,

Section width pretty much equals the overall width minus the raised lettering. This measurement usually only rubs the upper control arm. Most other times, the tire rubs on the corner edges of the tire.

+65 offset would not work for wider tires. Some with 305's and the stock wheels (+60) rub the UCA and sometimes frame.

Lift will not solve rub issues but rather reduce the frequency. Body lift and/or a sawzall:) are permanent solutions to some types of rubbing issues.

Take a look a the Tundra TRD 17x8 (+50mm) Rock Warrior wheels. Have a machine shop clearance the outer hub area of the wheel. Throw some 285/75R17 (11.25x34) and I think this is very close to the ideal largest tire with little rub that you are looking for. This size tire would work fine on the stock 17x8 (+60mm) wheels too but those are even harder to find.
 
Also, if it helps, I am running bfg 295/75/16 with custom 10mm spacers and no rubbing. But I do have a lift, aftermarket ucas, etc. Myself and another member looked into 12-14mm spacers but that requires longer studs that are not available.

Hope this helps. Looks inline with the numbers hoser is posting.
 
Mxndrnks

You bring up a great point about the consideration of running chains. I had settled on 285's as my next size of tire but gave no consideration to chains. My guess is the same "it depends" on whether or not I can run chains with 285's.

Looks like I will need to purchase and verify both if I want to be sure.
 
Mxndrnks

You bring up a great point about the consideration of running chains. I had settled on 285's as my next size of tire but gave no consideration to chains. My guess is the same "it depends" on whether or not I can run chains with 285's.

Looks like I will need to purchase and verify both if I want to be sure.

Talk to Spressoman. He runs chains with 285's (35"tire). He also runs 10 mm spacers. He has way more experience with chains than I. He can probably let you know what you need to.
 

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