Should I rebuild my axles?

[Joe Link]

My locked 1996 FJ80 just hit 255k miles. I have a huge to-do list elsewhere on the rig, but I ordered a PowerStop brake kit that I'd like to install. I'm debating whether I should rebuild the axles 'while I'm in there', or wait until I see or hear signs of them needing attention. There's no clicking or leaking but I don't know their maintenance history and I've not inspected them. The cost of parts isn't really a factor but my time is somewhat limited. What would you do?

 

[BILT4ME]

My locked 1996 FJ80 just hit 255k miles. I have a huge to-do list elsewhere on the rig, but I ordered a PowerStop brake kit that I'd like to install. I'm debating whether I should rebuild the axles 'while I'm in there', or wait until I see or hear signs of them needing attention. There's no clicking or leaking but I don't know their maintenance history and I've not inspected them. The cost of parts isn't really a factor but my time is somewhat limited. What would you do?

You have to go 80% of the way there to replace the front rotors, so....YES. Get a kit and rebuild it all!

 

[ZackR]

Another vote for a full rebuild if you plan to replace the rotors. Another option is to delay the brake kit install until you need to rebuild the steering knuckles.

 

[ppc]

If you are certain that there is no birfield clicking they would not need replacement for a long time. No signs of soup on the backside of the knuckle then I would pop open the plug on the backside and stick in a zip tie to get an idea of the condition and level of the grease. If that still looks OK then I would drain the front diff and check the condition of the gear oil. That should be serviced periodically anyway. If that looks uncontaminated, then I would not go into a full knuckle service. Replacing the rotors only requires pulling the hub, changing the rotors, cleaning and repacking the wheel bearings. My opinion that is only 50% of the full service. Going all the way in would also add pulling the steering arms, cleaning the housing, cleaning and repacking the birfields, replacing the kingpin bearings, new axle seal's inside the knuckle and felt and wiper seals on the outside. Doubling the amount of labor versus pulling hub only.

 

[chap79]

As @ppc said if there is no signs currently present ( clicking birf, play in trunnion bearings, grease/oil mixing) I would just replace the rotors, clean and repack the wheel bearings (or replacing with new). The front axle isn’t really that difficult if you’ve done it once or twice before.

If time is the big factor I’d post up in your LC community forum asking for a few extra set of hands. Would make the job happen really fast with a couple of cruiser veterans assisting.

 

[Cruzerman]

When was it last done? Any signs of it needing to be done? If it ain't broke...

 

[BILT4ME]

When was it last done? Any signs of it needing to be done? If it ain't broke...

Fix it until it is!

 

[GeoRoss]

I agree with everyone saying just fix what is broken. If the axle seals are not leaking, no birf clicking and no trunion bearing play I would just do the discs and pads. Everyone says "While you're in there", but if time and money are tight just ignore that. The absolute worse thing about a servicing the knuckles is the cleaning. Removing the hubs cuts the cleaning PITA by 2/3's or more and makes it an easy relaxed afternoon.

If in a year or two your axle seals start leaking then go for it and then you don't have to putz with the discs.

 

[on3i11s]

One thing I would do differently when I rebuilt my axles/replaced axle seals would be to clean and paint everything. I only cleaned my parts and reassembled but wish I would have painted my knuckles, hubs, etc (miscellaneous smaller parts).

I personally would vote for just replacing the rotors and not digging any deeper unless you really wanted to.

 

[lumbee1]

Full rebuild. I rebuilt my axles when I regeared. I found no grease in the driver's side rear hub. The bearings looked great but I was really surprised. Now I know that everything has been reassembled properly.

 

[DSRTRDR]

oh, the smell of Moly . . .

 

[GeoRoss]

One thing I would do differently when I rebuilt my axles/replaced axle seals would be to clean and paint everything. I only cleaned my parts and reassembled but wish I would have painted my knuckles, hubs, etc (miscellaneous smaller parts).

I personally would vote for just replacing the rotors and not digging any deeper unless you really wanted to.

I just did this a month ago or so. I will say that it took a really long time since I'm a little OCD about painting. I spent a crazy amount of time degreasing and cleaning. I then spent a stupid crazy amount of time wiping everything down with acetone. I'm not sure it was worth the time, but it sure looks pretty right now.

 

[Qball]

Doesn’t hurt to check the bearings and the birf/grease level if you are in there. Als if you have not done one when at least open it half way to see what’s going on from PO.

 

[mudgudgeon]

When was it last done? Any signs of it needing to be done? If it ain't broke...

Murphy's Law says it will be shortly after you've done half a job of it.

 

[Cruzerman]

Murphy's Law says it will be shortly after you've done half a job of it.

Murphy drove a Jeep.

 

[maxamillion2345]

While you’re there... you should really think about replacing the headgasket, oil cooler, every vacuum line, all heater hoses, oil pump, water pump, radiator, engine, trans, ah hell just drop it off for the Joe Rogan makeover.

 

[Heckraiser]

I found myself in the exact position as the OP shortly after I bought my truck. Had to do brakes, but do I do the knuckle jobber while I'm in there? Well, I did. And I'm pretty lazy and cheap, so....

 

[Joe Link]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Looks like people are about 50/50

Is there a write-up somewhere on how to check axle condition, clicking, trunion/wheel bearings, etc?