Builds Short E 70 - Tilda Bogue Service Station (3 Viewers)

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Sorry I missed you again. Had to run

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I had the opportunity to take the Short E 70 for a quick drive a couple of days ago. This is what I wrote in an Instagram post "

The FJ40 is the iconic Land Cruiser, which was discontinued in 1983 or 1984. Some dispute about the end date. Toyota replaced the FJ40 with the 70 series, which was unavailable in the US. Thanks Toyota <sarcasm>. This is an example owned by @89nolder imported from Saudi Arabia. It has a 1FZ engine and 5 speed transmission. I was able take a drive this afternoon and it is sweet. Solid truck that carries on the Land Cruiser heritage unlike the current US offerings. #landcruiser #fj40 #fj70 Had to do the Grogan RR jump"



The juice of the 1FZ can be felt when you mash the pedal and the engine whistles. Transmission shifting has a different feel than with a H55F, more like a 4Runner. The Dobinsons suspension is firm but not overly stiff, the railroad bumps were absorbed without jounce. This is a short wheel base rig and that is evident through the suspension.

Well done Toyota and too bad the US market did not get this model.


Hello,

Wait until you get your hands on a 1FZ-FE powered truck.







Juan
 
What are you expecting the arm to do? How many gallons did you go through before the light came on?

Depending on the size of tank you have the low fuel light comes on based on a percentage of total capacity of the fuel tank.

On an 80 series for example, the light comes on when there are 5 gallons of fuel left and that corresponds with the fuel arm exactly on the last line on the gauge.
 
What are you expecting the arm to do? How many gallons did you go through before the light came on?

Depending on the size of tank you have the low fuel light comes on based on a percentage of total capacity of the fuel tank.

On an 80 series for example, the light comes on when there are 5 gallons of fuel left and that corresponds with the fuel arm exactly on the last line on the gauge.

I had about 4000 miles on it before the gauge needle died. It does not come off empty ever.

It did. When I was on the trail a few weeks ago it died.

Thats why I bought a sending unit.

Then today when I was at 400 km on a tank which is about 20 gallons of 24 the light came on.

Thats what it was doing before the needle died. I’m familiar with the reserve.

My point is, the sending unit must be working because the low fuel light came on.

Must be a bad needle in the gauge or a bad wire. Can’t be the sending unit
 
OK, can someone smarter than me explain this? Looks like the low fuel light works but the arm is dead.

That probably rules out the sending unit l just got in from partsouq

Hello,

Indeed, it is the low fuel light.

The sending unit is beefier than it looks. It is, however, sensitive to loose (read: disconnected) venting fuel tank hoses. It is also sensitive to dirty fuel. Ask me how I know.

If the sending unit is working and fuel tank hoses are properly connected, I would bet there is a bad ground somewhere on your instrument panel. Chances are the bad ground either killed the gauge or it is preventing it from working as it should.

By the way, chasing bad grounds in that particular instrument panel is a pain, but it is possible.







Juan
 
I had about 4000 miles on it before the gauge needle died. It does not come off empty ever.

It did. When I was on the trail a few weeks ago it died.

Thats why I bought a sending unit.

Then today when I was at 400 km on a tank which is about 20 gallons of 24 the light came on.

Thats what it was doing before the needle died. I’m familiar with the reserve.

My point is, the sending unit must be working because the low fuel light came on.

Must be a bad needle in the gauge or a bad wire. Can’t be the sending unit

Could very well be a bad gauge. FSM has gauge testing parameters and process.
 
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New gauge is discontinued.

Better start learning soldering and old circuit boards.
I have an odometer and now an idiot light.

I’ll call it good
 
Simple life, homie.

Hello,

x2.

And keep in mind that every system/subsystem in the 70 Series is designed to be disassembled, repaired and assembled without too much of a hassle, electrics included.

Get ready for a pleasant surprise when you finally chase the electrical gremlins.





Juan
 
Looking at the Toyota sending units I have held I always assumed the light is totally independent of the gauge operation (the float) I don’t know this, just logical looking at it and assumed.

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Looking at the Toyota sending units I have held I always assumed the light is totally independent of the gauge operation (the float) I don’t know this, just logical looking at it and assumed.

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Good point. I’ll unbox this thing. Maybe the float fell off.

Would be easy except I have the drawer system back there bolted in right over the inspection plate.
 
Neither of those parts are correct for Nolen’s truck.
Really? I used a 1997 GCC spec, Standard FZJ70 as reference. Not saying I'm not wrong but would appreciate learning why.
 
Looking at the Toyota sending units I have held I always assumed the light is totally independent of the gauge operation (the float) I don’t know this, just logical looking at it and assumed.

View attachment 3697891
^^ This... I had a similar issue where my Guage would be all over (go towards empty no matter how much field was present, but then come back briefly. The low fuel light still worked fine independent of the Guage.

Replacing the entire sending unit fixed it right up and have not looked back since. Best of luck! :cheers:
 
Good point. I’ll unbox this thing. Maybe the float fell off.

Would be easy except I have the drawer system back there bolted in right over the inspection plate.

Making comparisons between an '85 diesel tank to a '98 petrol tank might not much value but ...

You may also want to check the motion of the float, in case it is hanging up on internal baffles.

A couple years back, I replaced the float on my BJ70. The full/empty were a little off compared to the prior float, so I attempted to adjust it with via the bend angle in the support rod. It didn't change the reading noticeably but I started encountering sticking of the float occasionally. (It acted like it would intermittently hang up with the internal baffling.) I removed it and returned the rod to original geometry (as close as I could using the old rod as a pattern). No issue with hung float since. I just live with the character in the fuel gauge readings.
 

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