September POTM - Cruiser Guy, Guatemala

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Hey Charles,
Here is a pretty clean FJ60 that the shop is selling. It's an 84 with 204K on it. It needs a drivers front fender as it is a little dented. The rest of the body is in great shape except for a tiny spot of rust on the driver's side rear wheel well.

It runs and drives. $1600.

Here is the craigslist add if you are interested.

1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60
 
Don't forget the door panels ;)

Yeah, I have seen a couple of 60's. Nice one up the street but I was not sure what was going on with you so, I let it drop for the time. I will ask about it. Talked to the guy about my 40 here a year ago. He would sell I think though it is not up for sale.

Edit: he would sell though he did not have it up for sale.
 
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Grease Cruiser said:
Hey Charles,
Here is a pretty clean FJ60 that the shop is selling. It's an 84 with 204K on it. It needs a drivers front fender as it is a little dented. The rest of the body is in great shape except for a tiny spot of rust on the driver's side rear wheel well.

It runs and drives. $1600.

Here is the craigslist add if you are interested.

1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60
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That looks nice...are you in high desert?
 
Here's my latest modification. I added a volt meter to get a better handle on the charging system. The ammeter reacts significantly even just from the turn signal flashing, it's always done this for the time we've had it.
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cruiser_guy said:
Here's my latest modification. I added a volt meter to get a better handle on the charging system. The ammeter reacts significantly even just from the turn signal flashing, it's always done this for the time we've had it.
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Very nice. My stock ammeter does that too... it's very sensitive. anything turned on or off makes a difference, and it shows me the battery topping off after a little run time.
 
Kief said:
So when are you going to get the Pontoons and the V-drive installed for the trek to Sierra Leone?
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I'm flying over in February for a month. After that I'll have a better idea what's happening.

No pontoons of "V" drive in the plans though :)
 
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I found a programmable tachometer from Isspro (model R8584) to match the other aftermarket gauges I have in the truck. I went through it just now temporarily to see if it works and it seems to work just fine using the stock 3B sender. The response is a little slow but I'll attribute that to the long light gauge wires I was using to do my trial hookup.

The readings look fairly accurate and based on information I gathered earlier about the number of teeth on the 3B flywheel (110 teeth) I've set this tach DIP switches as follows: 1 off, 2, 3, 4 on, 5 off, 6 & 7 on, 8 off.

I'll be hooking it up more permanently next week with an underdash mount. I just need to find a decent looking 3 3/8" mount.
 
Here's a picture of the tachometer. It's probably the easiest to mount location and it's not obscuring any other instruments or idiot lights. I ended up mounting it in an Autometer gauge pod #5204. It took a little bit of work to make it all fit. Next is wiring it up.

Next up, the transfer case breather elbow I picked up from Georg (orangefj45) this past summer. It should stay connected better than slipping a hose over the leftover of the breather.

Still on the hunt for nice front door trim panels to match the remainder of the truck.
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Transfer case breather vent hose mod.

I was thinking that some of the oil leakage from the transfer case was due to the oil sticking the breather closed. Last year I popped off the breather cover and spring and slipped a hose over the remains of the breather and then ran the hose up to the top of the firewall. I was always concerned about the hose remaining fixed in place and last year when talking with Georg (orangefj45) he said he uses a barbed elbow threaded into the top cover in place of the breather. I got an elbow from him and now that it has warmed up I decided to install it.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the hose had not come off the breather remains over the course of the past year but I proceeded anyways.

The breather threads into the cover and is a 27mm bolt. Remove that. Next with a 1/2" NPT tap rethread the top cover (if doing as I did and threading in place put grease on the tap to catch the cuttings, though I doubt the soft aluminum will do much harm to anything). You'll need to thread quite a ways as the 1/2" NPT is slightly larger than the original threaded hole. I ran the tap in probably 1/2" at least, remember that the NPT is a tapered thread so to allow it to tighten down you can't go too far. You want the elbow pointing up as I did so any oil that does find it's way to the hose can drain back to the transfer case. Blockages in the hose, like oil pooling, will defeat the breather function. If you have a transfer case saver as I do you'll need to install the one piece barbed elbow first and then the transfer case saver or use a two piece part as the transfer case saver rib interferes with the barbed elbow when threading it in.

You can see the tap needed, the barbed single piece elbow and the OEM breather in the picture.
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We just got back from "Cruise Moab" with the '55. I can say that a '55 doesn't much like strong cross winds and we had more than enough of that heading to Moab. We ran 34"x9.5"x15" Super Swampers which will be the tires for our '60 when we get to Africa later this year.

Here's some poser shots of the '55 on a run at "Cruise Moab".
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Lucy_FJ55 said:
Nice pics Charles! Those tires are pretty aggressive, how'd it handle on the highway?! :)
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Yep, aggressive alright! I only drove them for about 300 miles around Moab, other than that I ran street tires. I don't expect them to be very good on the highway but they were not too bad. Like I was saying, I got these for the rainy season in Africa where an aggressive tire MIGHT keep you moving!
 
Kief said:
So you are driving to Africa! Nice pics dude!
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Kief, the plan is to bring the '60 over. While I was there I never had the opportunity to ride in a vehicle without issues! The closest I came to a reliable issue was in an '80 series that had been converted to a carb!! I need a vehicle I can rely on and that's either my '60 or a new vehicle over there and a new vehicle is out of the question too expensive. If we find the need for a second vehicle it would be a '105 from one of the NGO's that I won't consider reliable till I have had it for 6 months without issues.

There were vehicles with plastic hose for gas lines, water for brake fluid, vehicles needed to have the wheel nuts tightened every hour or so, numerous vehicles needing starters and all were grossly overloaded. To give a vehicle a thorough check to ensure no "Mickey Mouse" repairs would nearly amount to a teardown.

The roads were dry when we were there but they look like they could be downright ugly in the rainy season which is where the Super Swampers will come into play. I'll likely save them for rainy season only.
 
cruiser_guy said:
We just got back from "Cruise Moab" with the '55. I can say that a '55 doesn't much like strong cross winds and we had more than enough of that heading to Moab. We ran 34"x9.5"x15" Super Swampers which will be the tires for our '60 when we get to Africa later this year.

Here's some poser shots of the '55 on a run at "Cruise Moab".
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Thanks for posting!

Sounds like the tires worked well.

I can't wait to get the 33's.

I forget, are you lifted? Any rubbing with the 34's?
 
PabloCruise said:
Thanks for posting!

Sounds like the tires worked well.

I can't wait to get the 33's.

I forget, are you lifted? Any rubbing with the 34's?
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2 1/2" Spector lift with 1" over shackles. There is/was some slight rubbing at full articulation while turning at the front fenders.
 
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