The English language got murdered and buried in a shallow grave, only reachable with 33" ATs, mad skills, and LSDs a few pages back, and now you say "what?".
Selectable diff locker debate (aftermarket). (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The English language got murdered and buried in a shallow grave, only reachable with 33" ATs, mad skills, and LSDs a few pages back, and now you say "what?".
ChaseTruck
--
We could continue with some more snarkiness, e.g. about someone complaining several years ago that a selectable front locker causes too much mental anguish because you have to, you know, select... 
But we won't do that. We want to know what the ARB parts in that front pumpkin look like.
And is there a new way to work on front diffs that requires 2nd amendment equipment? Some shortcuts, perhaps? Will it threaten the cone washers enough so they come on out all by themselves?
But we won't do that. We want to know what the ARB parts in that front pumpkin look like.
And is there a new way to work on front diffs that requires 2nd amendment equipment? Some shortcuts, perhaps? Will it threaten the cone washers enough so they come on out all by themselves?
Lets not forget that only unskilled and bad drivers choose selectable lockers and tires bigger then 33s
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I took a 'no expense spared' approach with the preparation of my competition built Discovery. It was mentioned earlier about the collateral damage being caused by using lockers.
I took a different approach and I built the car properly, ARB'S front and rear (wired separately of course), tougher axles, CV's, flanges, steering gear, I even binned the alloy wheels and went with steel, only Toyota build a decent alloy wheel for off road use. If you plan to be working your rig hard then do it properly.
My avatar shows one of my runs in my Discovery, that was taking on all comers at the Land Rover competition in Lorca around 11 years ago. It was one of the toughest tracks I had ever competed on, I did not break a thing.......well OK, I tore a tendon/ligament in my left shoulder.
In a nutshell, think carefully about what you envisage using the vehicle for, then build the vehicle for it's intended use.
Regards
Dave
I took a different approach and I built the car properly, ARB'S front and rear (wired separately of course), tougher axles, CV's, flanges, steering gear, I even binned the alloy wheels and went with steel, only Toyota build a decent alloy wheel for off road use. If you plan to be working your rig hard then do it properly.
My avatar shows one of my runs in my Discovery, that was taking on all comers at the Land Rover competition in Lorca around 11 years ago. It was one of the toughest tracks I had ever competed on, I did not break a thing.......well OK, I tore a tendon/ligament in my left shoulder.
In a nutshell, think carefully about what you envisage using the vehicle for, then build the vehicle for it's intended use.
Regards
Dave
It's fun to successfully plan out and build a great off road vehicle. Overlander, rock crawler, mudhole blaster, all around trail beater. As long as you enjoy it to each his own. I honestly think the young guys with cherokees modded with sawzall and used tires probably have the most fun.
can you say more about your Detroit locker experiences?
examples of obstacles and how well they perform etc?
I have to make a decision and obviously it's costly. need to get this right.
so apparently not. after it disengages, the reengagement doesn't always happen predictably or reliably.
there's video of people spinning one tire while locked. the engagement isn't happening.
I wonder if some of this shortcoming can be addressed or mitigated with left foot braking. does that help build load and keep the diff locked or help the diff lock up before you reengage an obstacle?
It would tend to occur more when in mud or snow trying to move forward, then shift to reverse. There is that moment where everything is unloaded and in a "neutral" position. Then it ramps up the other side while inertia is building. Holding the brake will have no effect.
I would have to see a video and I’ve already seen plenty as this would contradict the mechanical operation of the locker
Actually, left foot braking would make it worse, because with the brakes on, you're inhibiting wheel rotation and it's the rotation that's necessary to engage the locker(s).
I hear you, but the videos show clearly that sometimes multiple full rotations of the wheel do not actually engage the locker. manufacturer language mentions load, so my query is of you need that half revolution of travel to be loaded for the locker engagement.
or is something else at play?
^^^^^ this !
After watching the video you posted in your post #231, I truely believe that there is an electrical issue with that rig's lockers. It's also possible that the wrong gear lube is being used. They are NOT that complicated. If the electromagnets are getting the voltage, there's no excuse for them not to engage, with proper rotation, unless there is excessive friction in the gear set. My Harrop manual indicated using 100% synthetic 75w-90. I use Amsoil and have not seen that kind of performance with mine. Also, if a wiring error causes intermittant opens at the locker, than it makes sense that it's performing like that
Last edited:
I am glad to hear your experience because that's encouraging. again, there's a lot of satisfied customers. I am thinking of a Harrop for a front locker and sticking with factory Toyota in the rear.
to be honest I'm not trying to crawl up rocks and intentionally damage my rig to get the "win"
I just want to be able to get to camp, wherever it is. I only want to do this job once this decade if you get my meaning. I'm not loaded with money and just want to do the due diligence to get it right on the first time around.
Hmmm I have seen that video and I guess never made that much attention. Thanks for sharing. That’s a bit curious. Wonder what the cause is, sounds like one of the dudes had them replaced twice already. As mentioned maybe it’s more of an electrical issue.
and I don't want to be biased... the guy making the video is being obnoxious as ****. he's clearly all about ARB lockers and their solid engagement.
if I was traveling with someone that said E LOCKEEER every time my locker wasn't working, while he was filming, I'd stop traveling with that guy.
To be honest, the Harrop is not a locker that you'd use for competition or technical rock crawling. It's forte is simplicity and reliability. BUT, it must be installed, including the wiring or especially the wiring, with care away from heat sources like exhaust pipes, and allowed to flex safely between axle and frame/body. Lastly, use the best quality 100% synthetic gear oil and keep it maintained. Most have not experienced the difference between mid quality dino gear oil and the high quality 100% synthetic gear lube such as Amsoil Severe Gear. When I lived in Wyoming, I had to park my work truck outside in sometimes -20 F and colder at night. One morning, I started the truck and couldn't move the manual gear shift into neutral until it had warmed up after about 20 minutes. Had to sit there with the clutch depressed all that time. I switched to Amsoil 100% synthetic 75w-90 gear lube, in the transmission and never had that problem again. Just one example of the performance of true synthetic gear lube.
I considered the comment on the 2 replacements, too. But like @trinydex mentioned, the author is clearly an ARB believer, so he could be lying or fed bad info from the Harrop rig owner. It could even be the installer is totally inept and keeps screwing up the installs.
