- Thread starter
- #341
Seems like a shame to cover this up.
Builds "Scout" the 1977 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 77CruiserDog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #342
Getting closer!
I drove it yesterday and realized I’d inadvertently fixed a vacuum leak when I retorqued the carb base bolts and the manifold bolts. Not sure which one did it but it runs SO much better now.
Trans shifts like I would imagine a new one would have 50 years ago.
I drove it yesterday and realized I’d inadvertently fixed a vacuum leak when I retorqued the carb base bolts and the manifold bolts. Not sure which one did it but it runs SO much better now.
Trans shifts like I would imagine a new one would have 50 years ago.
- Thread starter
- #343
I replaced the old inner boots too, they were wasted!
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Very Nice work. Looks like a solid original specimen. I like the stance. It looks like factory original??
- Thread starter
- #345
Thanks so much. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible while staying in the realm of reality.
- Thread starter
- #346
All finished. It shifts like a champ and drives great!
Okay, so I still need to put the hub caps on…
Overall I'm really pleased with the decision to do what I did.
Happy Cruisering!
Okay, so I still need to put the hub caps on…
Overall I'm really pleased with the decision to do what I did.
- The frame had surface rust and needed some protection. Having it media blasted and powder coated was easy and not terribly expensive.
- The clutch was nearly toast, the new one is smoother and the pedal feel is much nicer.
- The trans was super loud and needed a rebuild. It screamed at speeds over 10mph... now it's way quieter! The folks at TorFab did an amazing job with the trans/xfer rebuild. I can't recommend them enough.
- The drivelines look fabulous and there's zero vibration so I'm stoked with the results.
- The brake lines are so-so... There's a dude here on MUD who makes better ones. If I get annoyed enough by these I'll likely reach out but I understand he's backed up with work.
Happy Cruisering!
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Looks good!
What was the timeframe from start to finish seems like it went pretty quick
What was the timeframe from start to finish seems like it went pretty quick
- Thread starter
- #348
Thanks!! Yeah it went pretty quick... the trans and transfer case rebuild took longer than I expected... 64 days. Some of that was the cleaning of the cases and powder coating. Overall it took 68 days from start to finish. I'm happy to have it finished.
Sounds great!
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #352
Yep, thats where mine sits best. I laid it all flat and made sure it fit properly there…. Then glued it all down in one foot increments.
I’ve opened and closed that door now probably 30 times, that WS isn’t moving.
- Thread starter
- #353
Also, looking at it in those pictures I can see I used way more glue than needed. I think you could use half as much as I did and still have a very secure weather strip.
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
I just want to make sure I get the same results you did as this will be my 3rd time doing it
- Thread starter
- #356
I just want to make sure I get the same results you did as this will be my 3rd time doing it
Yeah I hear you, I think I still have some PTSD from the 3 times I had to do mine. I'll PM you so we can just hop on a video call and I can show you what it looks like.
- Thread starter
- #357
I took a hiatus from Scout after doing all that work on it this year. Also, the 60 I just acquired is taking up some wrenching time.
However, we needed to get some Christmas boxes down from the racks in the garage so I backed it out and drove it around for a while. I adjusted the timing, tightened up the passenger side rear motor mount which I inadvertently left slightly loose, adjusted the clutch which was slightly too tight and bled the brakes and clutch. It drives so sweet! I can't wait to take it on a longer drive when the weather is a bit nicer.
Tomorrow I plan on making sure the driveline u-joints / slip yolks are adequately greased and figure out why the gauge cluster lights suddenly stopped working. I also have a new rattle sound coming from the steering shaft to track down. Other than those simple things, it's a happy little camper!
However, we needed to get some Christmas boxes down from the racks in the garage so I backed it out and drove it around for a while. I adjusted the timing, tightened up the passenger side rear motor mount which I inadvertently left slightly loose, adjusted the clutch which was slightly too tight and bled the brakes and clutch. It drives so sweet! I can't wait to take it on a longer drive when the weather is a bit nicer.
Tomorrow I plan on making sure the driveline u-joints / slip yolks are adequately greased and figure out why the gauge cluster lights suddenly stopped working. I also have a new rattle sound coming from the steering shaft to track down. Other than those simple things, it's a happy little camper!
Great rig and very well written thread. I’m doing a frame-up build of a 77 too. Just about to fit up the engine, transmission and transfer. I have an electric hoist in my garage like yours and find that it is handy for all kinds of projects. Thanks for a lot of great ideas. My Amazon cart is filling up with the wire loom, steering wheel wrap, speedo cable and super glue you used.
- Thread starter
- #359
Thanks so much. It's been really fun, like a project that never ends but only because I don't want it to. HA! Yeah Amazon sure is handy when it comes to miscellaneous items. Hands down the best thing I found were those magnetic wire loom holders. They're super nice!
- Thread starter
- #360
I greased the zerk fitting below the steering column and that pesky rattle went away.
The main harness on the back of the gauge cluster came loose and caused the gauge cluster lights to not work... tightened that up.
I greased the slip yolks on both shafts and the rear most driveline u-joint on the rear drive line. The u-joint on the rear drive shaft closest to the transfer case was not accessible in it's current position. The front driveshaft u-joints wouldn't take grease, they just made a huge mess. So I drove it around with the transfer case in 4H for a while, hoping that if I spun that driveshaft a bit maybe it would allow the grease to be pushed in to the needle bearings when I try again tomorrow.
Drove it for 45 minutes or so, it runs like a champ and is so fun to drive! It's not fast but it's certainly not slow either!
Comparing the way Scout runs and drives vs Falcor is surprising. Scout is far quicker and runs WAY better. My guess is the 4:10s in the diffs make a bit of a difference in it's pep. Falcor tracks better and I believe that's because it has those 4 degree shims in it whereas I've yet to put them in Scout.
The main harness on the back of the gauge cluster came loose and caused the gauge cluster lights to not work... tightened that up.
I greased the slip yolks on both shafts and the rear most driveline u-joint on the rear drive line. The u-joint on the rear drive shaft closest to the transfer case was not accessible in it's current position. The front driveshaft u-joints wouldn't take grease, they just made a huge mess. So I drove it around with the transfer case in 4H for a while, hoping that if I spun that driveshaft a bit maybe it would allow the grease to be pushed in to the needle bearings when I try again tomorrow.
Drove it for 45 minutes or so, it runs like a champ and is so fun to drive! It's not fast but it's certainly not slow either!
Comparing the way Scout runs and drives vs Falcor is surprising. Scout is far quicker and runs WAY better. My guess is the 4:10s in the diffs make a bit of a difference in it's pep. Falcor tracks better and I believe that's because it has those 4 degree shims in it whereas I've yet to put them in Scout.
