Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids!

[medtro]

Back "Merlot":
As you can see here compared with pictures in post #43 the Lexol did a nice job on interior, but this was not ground in dirty. Lexol is mild stuff and sold at Toyota Dealer in my area. I've used it for about 20 years. Recently an Auto upholstery shop said they only use Meguiar's leather stuff, I've not tried yet!

As always start with least aggressive. I only used the Lexol and vinegar/water (on plastic), the Leatherique wasn't necessary.

Roughly how much time was spent to clean the 2nd row seats?

 

[2001LC]

Roughly how much time was spent to clean the 2nd row seats?

When as clean as Merlot, not long. Maybe <2 hours for 2nd row (all sides leather, vinyl & plastic)

Starting at drives door and working CCW around vehicle, it takes 5 to 8 hours for seats, trim and door panels, depending on condition.

 

[2001LC]

Panel cleaned up nicely.

I'll save the carpet and glass for last and get to paint touch-up as and spot paint correction as temperatures permit.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

What do you use to get the doors so clean? Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

Mild solution vinegar/water and Lexol Vinylex was about all I needed on plastic. Also a de-greasing soap like Simple Green is helpful. A little rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner sparingly on stubborn scuff marks, ink, paint, etc. Some carpet & fabric cleaner work well on speaker cloth, using tips of fingers to work in gently. Woolite is another mild clean helpful to keep on hand.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

Thank you, very helpful. Your results are impressive.

 

[2001LC]

Time to get dirty.

I enjoy mechanical stuff the most. I start each project with removing plastic shielding and inspecting with camera in hand. Looking for anything that looks broken, cracked, missing, loose, oily, etc..

Then I clean. I'll spent hours and hours clean undercarriage, wheel wheels and engine bay. I've had some that took days and days even weeks to clean exterior.

Then I drive and inspect again. The pre-cleaning pictures of oily spots if and now help me focus on in my hunt for leaks. No leak is acceptable on a 100 series.

One thing I find almost every 100 series needs is hood lifts. So starting with those early on is helpful.

 

[2001LC]

Pre-cleaning inspection revealed a few issue, which I find commonly in low mile 06-07 100 series. In interest of grouping issues found during inspection with repair. I'll work to show one by one as we go.

RH inner boot small clamp weep. Surrounding area revealed only a few teaspoons of grease escaped.

LH inner boot small clamp weep. Surrounding area revealed only a few tablespoons of grease escaped.

Notice spec of cream colored grease. This stuff doesn't wash off easily so it's possible to get very good idea on how much total grease has escaped over the years.

 

[2001LC]

Cleaning and removing boot clamp is first in re-clamping.

I move the boot off it's groove/seat in axle to clean under boot as well, just in case road grim has worked its way under.

I get the clamps from NAPA. It was a Lexus mechanic that turned me on to these.

I snug down with my pliers type crimp tool, to get started.

 

[2001LC]

I finish up by closing gap of clamp to spec with this tool @abuck99 turned me onto a good sources for. Works great, thanks!

These clamps leaves a little tail raised where it clips in.

You do not need to do this, but I like to tidy-up by tapping down the tail.

Done with one side

 

[abuck99]

Paul- do you have a NAPA part number or size for that clamp?

 

[2001LC]

NAPA receipt shows "Strap CVB 686-5833" $3.16 for two.

 

[abuck99]

Thank you sir

 

[Matt Phelps]

Hey Paul,

What are your thoughts about what appears to be cracks in stabilizer bar cushions? Apologies if addressing this is coming in future posts.

 

[2001LC]

Hey Paul,

What are your thoughts about what appears to be cracks in stabilizer bar cushions? Apologies if addressing this is coming in future posts.

View attachment 1843138

Good eye.

They're not too bad, just some cracking from road heat around edges. I did order a new OEM set including links and have on-hand standing by. But once I looked closer they seemed pretty good, and feel tight with zero play.

The links themselves are what I focus more on. The upper shaft, and lower bushing & rubber which comes pressed in the OEM links is area I'm most concerned with. When lower bushing & rubber gets warn, they start eating into (damaging) bracket that is parts of lower control arm. If I change the top cushion now, I doubt it would be noticeable in handling at all. But it would give false signal to a typical inspection in future to someone else that all is good.

Here's old example from my Stock file photos of link that shaft was badly rusted through but not yet snapped. Once they snap, is when they generally are replaced.

Here's example from files of link that was warn out and damaged it caused. This is area I'm most concerned with. These should have been replaced sooner.

 

[2001LC]

Servicing front wheel bearings is something every 100 series I've owned needed.

Some may find helpful a technique for testing wheel bearings for looseness. With tire off the ground. Place a finger between brake caliper and wheel. Any pinching felt on finger as tire forcefully pulled and pushed on, indicates the bearings are way to loose.

This is only my second virgin set of bearing, I've seen. Just like The Black Knight which also was a very low mileage Land Cruiser, these have never been serviced.

Here are just two of the clues these are virgins. Translucent grease and the two ink marks on the DS locking nut.

As usual, I like pulling steering knuckle first time in to really clean up and inspect. This also gives me the opportunity to de-rust rust and protect form future rust. Since cleaning in solvent I replace oil seal. The Red-N-Tacky I use under seal, in wheel speed sensor housing and on dust shield backing plate as rust inhibitor. I use Mobil 1 for bearings themselves.

It's important anytime steering knuckle removed to protect front drive shaft dust seal. If bent it may rub on inner oil seal. I've seen many in mud sure they've bearings installed to tight when they hear this rub. The seal will bend if it's allowed to rest on the LCA. So I place a 2x2 between LCA and outer tulip of front drive shaft, which keeps it suspended.

 

[2001LC]

Ending up going two sizes up to the 2.6mm hub flange snap ring, yielding a nice an tight 0.05mm gap.

Using my usually set to set the gap (Stock photo)

Actual photo

 

[2001LC]

Before even removing tires/wheels, I did a series of test of front end. Starting with handling, then videos of steering rack, ball joint and TRE which all was good. While steering knuckle off, ball joints get final test. All was good, just as one would expected for ~60K miles.
I also inspected rotors, calipers and pads.

Front pads have about ~9mm remaining (1mm is min limit)

 

[2001LC]

While on subject of brakes. A relative new inspection and PM I do is to resistance wires & screws/nuts between ABS and booster pump motor. I found these will corrode for some reason. Likely cause is form brake fluid getting in boot. These looked pretty good so I just PM'd, by packing wire boots with dielectric grease.

More on this Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

 

[slowpok3]

2001LC - your attention to detail on this beauty is truly impressive.