Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids! (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Flushing out factory brake fluid is always necessary even in low mile rig like this. The stuff that comes from the factory is the best we can get, in that it last the longest. The factory fluid in my 01 looked good after 10 years, really good. But once factory fluid flushed out, we need to flush every 2 to 3 years. Factory filled fluid can not be bought in the USA. The stuff Toyota sells in a can, is made by same company (last time I checked), but is different. It has something to do with EPA of one or more additives in fluid Toyota DOT 3 Brake Fluid Composition ?

In picture below fluid looks a little dark, it's just lighting. It actually looks clear to the naked eye. If it actually looked dark like in this pictures, I'd flush it as I did.

Some looking at level here will say "aren't you going to top" It is topped. Keep in mind we must pump brake peddle 40 times with IG key off before topping. Then once IG key turned on booster pump runs drawing fluid into accumulator.

This pictures is after IG key turned to ON and booster pump run until stops (~30 to 40 seconds FSM spec).

Most, even shops, don't read what Toyota felt so important they printed on the brake fluid reservoir.

Toyota warns us in the FSM do not over fill. There are a number of reason for this. One deals with pressure forcing fluid out top of reservoir at cap. It then run down around outside reservoir. It may even come out rubber grommets at bottom of reservoir where it attaches to master. Brake fluid will eat paint off is one reason we need be concerned.

But IMHO, the number one reason we don't want spillage/seepage, is it may get into boot(s) of wire running from ABS to booster motor. Brake fluid attracts moisture an holds it, which may leading to corrosion of wire leads, nuts and screws. Even the dielectric grease I added (shown above) may get washed out.

Here is stock photo from a 2000 w/150K miles of corrosion I'm concerned may happen from overfilling.

 

[2001LC]

Here is how I flush:

You'll see FSM states keep level above minimum line. Well that best for bleeding, but not so much when flushing from rear. But is best in all cases (flushing or bleeding) to keep above min line when doing fronts or air will get in.

When I flush from rear, I'll take reservoir very low, to as near bottom as I can. Sure if I drain to much off I'll get air in system, which I'd rather not. But it's not that big a deal to bleed out.

I started flushing the way I show here years ago, long before I had Mini VCI to tap into tech stream. It's worked for me without tech stream countless times just fine.

First is to prep brake pedal with a helper spring loaded pole (shower curtain rod) which I use when nobody around to help out. This is to hold peddle down as I open and close bleeder plug. I use the seat motor to compress my pole which rides on the brake pedal. I then just turn IG to ON when I want booster motor to run.

Stock photo helper pole holding down brake peddle.

Then I start draining fluid at left rear bleeder. Rear because fluid will pump out as long as bleeder open with pump running with IG key on and peddle depressed. Left side just because it's closet to where I'm working.

I use a long 10mm socket to break loose bleeder, then 10mm flare nut wrench or box end wrench to open and close bleeder as needed. I attach a clear hose to bleeder and run to a jar. Clear is important to allow me to watch for air in hose, jar to see color and amount of fluid I've drawn off.

I open bleeder for ~20 to 30 seconds first time, drawing off about 3/4 qt. Then stop and check reservoir level. I keep going up front and checking level in the reservoir while bleeder is closed. I'm shooting for very low but no lower than shown here.

Note: Toyota does not like us running pump motor much more than 100 seconds in the 200 series FSM, I feel best to not in 100 series also. I'm not so concerned with running the booster motor for long periods, but I don't want to run pump while dry. In any case I run pump short bust and keep checking reservoir level each time I close bleeder. Pump will stop as long as air has not gotten in system once bleeders is closed and pressure builds. This is because sensor reads pressure at it's factory preset point shutting down motor at high pressure. If for some reason booster pump motor didn't stop, like a leak or air in system. I'd turn IG key off or disconnect battery. All will stop booster pump.

 

[2001LC]

Once I've drain fluid from reservoir and bleeder is closed. I release the pole from brake pedal, turn IG key OFF and pump brake pedal until accumulator empties (evacuating accumulator) into reservoir. I know when it's empty as pedal pressure drops. Also if watching reservoir, I can see a squirt of fluid on each depression of peddle, until accumulator evacuated. This raises level in reservoir with old fluid from accumulator.

Now I'll double or more amount of fluid in reservoir by adding in my new brake fluid. This gives me ~50/50 mix of old with new.

Now I set up my brake pedal helper pole with IG key ON again. Turning ON IG key activates booster pump motor drawing in my 50/50 mix of old and new fluid into accumulator. I then go back to bleeder jar and bleed DS (RH) rear bleeder again, drawing off just a little, lowering level in reservoir again.

I keep repeating draw down level into a empty jar, evacuating accumulator, adding fresh fluid to mix, until fluid runs clear into jar. This take ~5 times to get a mix of about 97% fresh brake fluid. Emptying jar after each cycle helps monitor color of fluid.

Now I've flushed the reservoir, accumulator and DS (left) rear brake hard and flexible lines. I torque DS rear bleeder plug to 8ft-lbf and move to PS rear bleeder to flush its line. At PS bleeder I'll bleed off 3 to 5 oz, empty my jar often and bleed a little more until I see clear fluid passing through tube into catch jar.

Then I'll torque PS bleeder, evacuate accumulator, top off reservoir and move to DS or PS front bleeder one at a time to flush their lines.

 

[2001LC]

When flushing or bleeding fronts we never let level below minimum in reservoir.

Fronts flushing is a little more difficult as booster will no longer do the work for us. So a helper is needed to pump pedal with IG key ON.

So with key on, helper pumps brake pedal 20 times first time, than 3 to 5 times holding brake pedal down on last stroke of each set, as I opened bleeder plug.

It's important that bleeder plug only be opened when pressure is being applied to brake pedal. Bleeder must be closed (sung down) before brake pedal is released or air sucks in. Helper pumps pedal "with IG key ON" so that booster pump keeps system pressurized.

As helper holds pedal down and I open bleeder, only getting ~1 oz as pedal goes to floor. Best to not put excessive pressure on peddle as it bottoms. I'll sung down bleeder before pedal pressure is released by helper.

It takes 5 to 8 set/cycles of pumping and bleeding off, before fluid runs clear signaling that front brake line is flushed. I then move to other front brake line. Again I do not let reservoir drop below minimum.

One other thing makes flushing front a little more difficult is getting a wrench on bleeder plug with my clear bleeder line attached. Wheel limits my wrench's movement while on bleeder. I use 10mm socket to break loose bleeder plug as in rear, then I attach my bleeder clear hose and jar. I then just deal with limited wrench movement best I can. Open end 10mm wrench works well, a short handle 10mm flare nut wrench, curved handle would work even better or just removing the wheel gives very easy access to bleeder. Toyota give us longer bleeder plug in front to help us out here. Once done at each caliper, I torque bleeders to 8ft.lbf.

Testing for leaks or air in system
I now should have a good solid peddle feel, this is first test.

Second test, system pressure holding/building ability with booster pump. To do this just evacuate accumulator again (IG key OFF pump peddle) Now time how long it takes booster motor to stop, once IG key turned ON. Factory Spec is ~ 30 to 40 seconds.

Stock photo from Snowy 2006LC w/194K

Sometimes times I run over 40 seconds. FSM states re-bleed if this happens. But first I check for leaks. I find leaks most often when rubber bleeders cap was bad or missing. Those bleeders often need recondition or replacing. What happens is moisture gets in bleeder causing corrosion. This can damages bleeder and can damage bleeder seat in caliper just because a $2 bleeder cap missing or badly cracked. I'll pull any bleeder I suspect as I flush, reconditioning or replacing as needed. 9 out of 10 shop will not replace these bleeder caps, why is concern.

Here's a stock photo from 2000 LX w/270K miles of bleeder without rubber caps or bad caps. It would not allow fluid out as hole was plugged with corrosion.

The only way I can tell if a bleeder is weeping (leaking) is de-grease the area first. First I use compressed air blowing out fluid from bleeder orifice (can of keyboard compressed air cleaner works). Then I cap the bleeder with a good rubber cap. Now I spray area with de-greaser, brake fluid cleaner works or any degrees such as dish soap then rinsing off with water. Once de-greased and dry, I turn ON IG key and pumping brake pedal a few times pressing hard. I then inspect each bleeder for leaks. Naturally I’m looking around caliper and brake lines also for leaks.
Stock Photo

Often times a bleeder will leak just a tiny bit. I just snug leaky bleeder a tiny bit pass the 8ft-lbf torque, 1 ft-lbf at a time. If by ~11ft-lbf of torque it has not stop weeping, I replace bleeder with new OEM.

If no leak is found and test still running over 40 seconds, I re-bleed system. As it may have some air in it which will increase time it takes to reach factory required system pressure.

Rubber Bleeder caps is a big deal and must be on bleeder plug and in good condition. I replace a lot of these.

On Merlot (this 2007) all rubber bleeder caps were in place but some minor cracking observed. So I replacement them all with new OEM.

Caps along with brake lines should be inspected annually. Even if brakes shop serviced, check these caps. I find caps bad or missing so often just after a Dealership or other shop has service brakes.

Once flushing done I like to flush ABS valves

Activating the valves of ABS to move fluid through, is something I always do. By now I have a good brake pedal feel and all bleeder torqued to 8ft-lbf. I drive to dirt or icy road and stomp on brakes at ~35 MPH 5 to 7 times activating ABS.

FSM has a procedure for bleeding air from master solenoid/ABS, that involves use of Tech stream. I'm not going to cover that here. Someone who has ability to hook up tech stream will have access to FSM procedure.

Once done activating ABS, I do a mini flush on left rear and then bleed remaining 3 bleeders. Now I'll start at front RH and bleed off a few oz, then LH front, RH rear bleeding of 3 to 5 oz. Again always topping fluid in reservoir as I draw off, checking level once accumulator evacuated. Here I'm closely watching for air bubbles. If I haven't run reservoir to low or empty sucking in air in, I don't see any. But by bleeding I'm making sure I've no air and drawing off a little more old fluid that ABS valve released.

If everything is good, I blow out bleeders and cap them. Something new I've tried is blowing out with DW-40 or can brake cleaner then blow with air too dry and before capping.

 

[2001LC]

A couple more things:
There some more old fluid to flush:

From calipers which is rarely done. To do this at minimum wheel must be off to get at brake pads, removing caliper makes easier. I've done this caliper bleed once on a 100 series, and I had calipers off. I spread out pad pushing in piston of caliper while bleeder plug open. This pushes old fluid out of caliper. The difficulty is compounded as care must be taken to not damage pads. So if metal tab of pad can't be grab to press into piston with possible channel locks, I use wood between pads to spread then apart. The temptation is to use a screwdriver or mini crowbar on pads. Bad Idea to pry on pad material with metal, as it may chip

Also There is some concern with bottom brake peddle with force. I can't say this applies to the 100 series. But out of caution I'll mention here. I found while reading the TIS training manual brake section for Toyota.

So out of caution I have my assistant press to floor but without applying to much force. I used to have pressed forcefully and never did have issue, but reading this I back off.

 

[2001LC]

I'll put adjusting e-brake shoe here later

 

[sammybones]

As always, nice work Paul.

 

[abuck99]

Good point Paul,

Important to mention this here because if there is any corrosion or build up of debris towards the end of the piston bore ( which is possible with moisture in fluid over time) then the piston and seal may collect/scrape debris and score the bore, or damage (nick or tear) the piston seal.

On a well maintained brake system this might be a lesser concern compared to a high mile poorly maintained or lack of maint. history vehicle. So folks flush your brake system regularly! 24-36mo.

 

[2001LC]

As always, nice work Paul.

Thank you for saying that. But after review my posting this morning, I had to do a lot of editing. Hopefully it makes more senses and is easier to read now.

Good point Paul,

View attachment 1854455

Important to mention this here because if there is any corrosion or build up of debris towards the end of the piston bore ( which is possible with moisture in fluid over time) then the piston and seal may collect/scrape debris and score the bore, or damage (nick or tear) the piston seal.

View attachment 1854469

On a well maintained brake system this might be a lesser concern compared to a high mile poorly maintained or lack of maint. history vehicle. So folks flush your brake system regularly! 24-36mo.

Interesting, thanks for posting!

I've not seen this happen, but it makes sense I suppose. In either case it best to not press excessively hard at bottom of peddle in absent of back pressure, out of abundance caution.

My guess is if master cylinder is in such bad condition, it would not hold pressure well during braking. It may even leak. But a minor master leak is very hard to detect. One symptom may be peddle fade, even after caliper rebuild/replace, flushing out old fluid and booster test meets the 30 to 40 sec requirement.

 

[2001LC]

Steering: Rack & pinion, mounts, boots, TRE, input shaft, telescopic & tilt motors, high & lower pressure line/hoses all checked out good This is as expected for a clean low mile 07. But still there are areas I address on every Land Cruiser/LX.

First is cleaning the reservoir and flushing power steering. The screen in bottom of reservoir was clean which makes cleaning much easier. Now that it's been cleaned and flush, it only needs regular flushing as a PM from here on out. I like flushing done every other oil change (about 10K miles), but certainly no longer than every 30K miles.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

I'm also replacing the air control value double vacuum lines more and more often. I look to see if any cracking at ends of hoses, If found, I often replace. If cracking on end that's not been or being removed, it not critical to replace these. But once removed they do need replacing. The lower end of hoses are rarely removed but uppers are removed ever time air box removed.

Although these only show cracking on ends that I'm not removing (no need to), I replaced these anyway.

For some reason the lower ends seem to crack much sooner than upper ends.

New hoses installed

 

[2001LC]

Minor engine tune is up next.
This includes cleaning MAF sensors and throttle body.

Also inspecting and replacing as needed:
Air filter.
All coolant and vacuum hoses.
Heater Tees.
Missing or broken clamps, clips and such.
Oil & filter.
Coolant.

Also looking for and correcting leaks.

Here I start with inspecting and taking pictures before cleaning. Then I clean before most work begins, which was actually done before the above vacuum line replacement on power steering. If any leaks are detected with source difficult to determine. I'll watch closely after cleaning for reappearance of leak to pinpoint.

I've found removing air box, drive belt, idler and tensioner pulls best practice in first deep cleaning of engine. This gives me better access and a chance to inspect pulley bearings and tensioner spring force. I've found that if water hits the pulley bearings if at all aged, water gets in them and they go bad fast. Also high pressure water can damage belt. I cover all openings left from pulling air box before I begin.

As I clean engine with HP water, I work bottom up. I like to have front end a little higher, so water will run out engine rear valley drains and off intake to head gasket area. I'm sparing with spraying on these intake gasket areas and intake manifold to reduce water getting into valley or in engine. Once done I move quickly too blow off the area between intake manifold gasket with HP air, then assemble and run engine.

 

[2001LC]

While drive belt (serpentine) off, it was good time to check condition of both tensioner and idler pulley bearings. These in Merlot were good, as one would expect at 64K miles. But I'll go ahead and show a video I made of marginal ones.

This is stock footage of bad bearings. Notice the scraping or chipping sounds, also how they just keep spinning. New bearing will be silent and have some resistance and only spinning a revaluation or so.


I like to disconnect battery negative post first, then MAF sensor. I get better results with my tune up disconnecting battery for at least 20 minutes to reset ECM.

CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner has been my go to product.

BG throttle body cleaner has been working good for me.

Air filter was marginal so I went ahead and replaced it.

 

[2001LC]

PCV valve was good but both hoses were marginal. So i replaced the hoses.

 

[shevy77]

BG throttle body cleaner has been working good for me.

Curious on your method for holding butterfly open. I didn't want to move the butterfly by hand in my '06, since it is electronically operated throttle. I placed a brick on gas pedal with ignition in ON, but not cranked position, and it opens right up. Not sure that was necessary, but tried to play safe since some didn't think it is a good idea to manually open.

 

[2001LC]

I place my helper pole (shower curtain spring loaded pole) between gas peddle and seat back then turn IG key to on.

Stock photo

 

[2001LC]

As always, I replace heater Tee's as PM.

Looking at factory Tee's in place, is not always revealing.

Sometimes I go head and pull the front hose off outlet side (DS) coming from water by-pass joint tube. This is side that will break apart almost every time. It very important to not stress that tube when pulling off hose, otherwise it may leak were it mates with water bypass.

 

[abuck99]

Arw you pretreating the T’s with the lexol prior to install?

 

[2001LC]

No, not the tees. But I do use on old rubber hoses.

 

[Njck22]

Vinylex is a great product imho, doesn't leave a shiny sheen or greasy film on the dash when used to clean inside, and seems to do some protecting. But in the engine bay, I think silicone spray would peform better. Since no one can see it most of the time, it doesnt matter if its shiny. Also most vinyl, plastic, and rubber "restorers" you see are silicone based. Infact a glance at the vinylex msds shows 70% water and some silicone fluid. Most silicone sprays will have a higher concentration, better for conditions in an engine bay. All my opinion, let me know what you think.

 

[2001LC]

I read once that Vinylex has a plasticize in it. I found over the years (~14 years with my 01) it actually help restore my rubber door seals. So I use more to restore and protect rubber hoses in engine. Perhaps I've just dunk the cool-aid. But one thing it does do, is clean the rubber. Cleaning rubber and not stripping out plasticize, will add years to it if nothing else.