Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids! (4 Viewers)

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What is your asking price? I don't see it in the classifieds section.
I don't publicizes my prices. If my buyers wish to disclose, that is up to them, which I'm fine with.

I've not been listing 100 series in mud. Typical I've list of interested parties, which often have bought elsewhere before I've alerted them I've got one. But it's first to cut deal with me and sign an LOA w/deposit that takes it. We set a closing date anywhere for 30 to 90 days out generally. I'm easy to work with, accommodating timing of buyer at date past projected completion date.

I listed my first that started this hobby in CL. Which sold and closed in ~90 minutes of listing. Those buyers (mom and Dad) bought The WhiteLady 01LX and gave as gift to their daughters family. Kind of nice, they bring to me for service now, even thought they're a family of gear heads and mechanics. They say nobody works on their vehicles except me. They actually came bye a few days ago and made a cash offer for Merlot you'd choke, if I told what I turned down.

If you've interest PM me and will talk.

The WhiteLady
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Wow Paul. You definitely have an affliction! Nice find! Your ability to find these trucks is quite honed now. I'm interested in what you find as you work your way through this one.

I love the color also! ;)
I've still working on my to do list. I'll start posting stuff soon. It is a great color, fit for Knights and Barons RIGHT!

We've not seen picture of ? Oh darn I forgot what your GF rename The Blck Knight to. It's acronym for "Butter smooths build like a tank"? How's it looking? Post pic in here....
 
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BTW; I did list my 200 series GrayBrid in mud which some of you probably didn't know I have/had. I've had it for over 10 months now. Never meant to keep so long, but it's really nice and it's Unique. It took me awhile to warm up to the 200 series, which my GF likes best of all. But my first loves is still the 100 series. But I must say guy's and gals, the 200 series is something.

Local member @Str8Laced found my CL listing and post it up first. For Sale - 2011 Grey Land Cruiser 81K miles in CO So I was encouraged to list in mud, after listing in CL.

For Sale - 2011 LC 81K Gary/Gray. COLO. Supper clean & Rust free.

I do have a local signed LOA w/small deposit for the GrayBird. Buyer came buy while it was dirty from snow storm road grim, while snowing and cold. He's putting together funds now!

Something I'm proud of is I've sold every vehicle I've every listed in my life, to the first real buyer that looked.
 
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There is a 32k 06 non AHC LC (not mine) on Austin Craigslist. For those interested, too expensive though
 
There is a 32k 06 non AHC LC (not mine) on Austin Craigslist. For those interested, too expensive though
That is a guy who flips 100s. He doesn't go to anywhere near the level that 2001LC does though.

I have seen the 07 and got a ride in it a few weeks ago. I can vouch for how nice it is. I would imagine 2001LC has put another 50 hours in since I saw it and it is even nicer ;) This will essentially be the right vehicle for someone who wants a vehicle in the condition it was when it rolled off the assembly line. It will drive as close to new as is possible. 2001LC has a knowledge base that I would say makes him THE go to guy for the 100 series. His attention to detail is off the charts and he believes in doing this right the first time. He isn't after the cheapest; he is after the best, and that usually means a LOT of new Toyota parts.
 
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There is a 32k 06 non AHC LC (not mine) on Austin Craigslist. For those interested, too expensive though
$47K I've seen higher priced 100 series. Some people are price sensitive, others look for value. If that one was here I'd go look to see if it has value. You may like to post that one up in the classified section. I fear this thread got off course with buying and selling chat, it's a tech thread;)

That is a guy who flips 100s. He doesn't go to anywhere near the level that 2001LC does though.

I have seen the 07 and got a ride in it a few weeks ago. I can vouch for how nice it is. I would imagine 2001LC has put another 50 hours in since I saw it and it is even nicer ;) This will essentially be the right vehicle for someone who wants a vehicle in the condition it was when it rolled off the assembly line. It will drive as close to new as is possible. 2001LC has a knowledge base that I would say makes him THE go to guy for the 100 series. His attention to detail is off the charts and he believes in doing this right the first time. He isn't after the cheapest; he is after the best, and that usually means a LOT of new Toyota parts.
Very very nice of you to say.:) Thank you!
Your right I did get some more time in, but not as much as I would have liked. As a few locals in need of emergency repairs (brake / coolant) took up the warms days.

I'm looking into getting heat in the shop. I need it bad this year, or I'll get stuck here on my PC for the winter.:( I've been working on getting body paint ready for the winter.

I've pulled the flares, cleaned, clay, correct compound and finish waxed the body paint. My micro fiber correcting system does okay down to OAT of ~58 F. So I've really tried to take advance of ever warm day to do wet work.
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Under was nasty as I suspected and @sammybones eluded too. But getting those off and getting paint protect was/is the goal.

Paint under front Flares came out looking good:) Few etching but nothing really noticeable or photographable.
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Rears will need some touch up paint, which I'll put off until I get get better than a OAT of 58F maintained.
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This one pic is Pre cut and wax, looks better now but will need touch up.
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I had a number of door dings even with the flares. My guess is husband ordered with flares for his wife, as he knew added protection needed:cautious:

No Matter, I took to the guys (Will & Shenan) over at Auto Hail and dent Center. Will Sidebotham was referred to me by a local body shop owner. He said they do a great job, don't drill holes needlessly and let him know of any issue like broken clips. I've used them now three times and I'm very happy with them. Happens, Will is a Land Cruiser guy himself in the 80 section of mud.

Had about door had ~1/2 dozen ding on drivers door and few more along side.

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Paints starting to pop. Love this color! A one stage pearl.
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Hood just like The Black Knight has really worked me. I've probably 50 hours on it alone so far
I hit hard with washing and synthetic clay which strips hiding wax that was on. The synthetic clay also realy does a number on paint, micro starches that is. But since cutting after it doesn't matter.

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Birds, they say it's good lucky when they drop their business on your car. I don't agree
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Can't see well in these picture the chips and etching in clear from organics and such. They'll need more work, when I can use touch up paint. For now wax will protect the few spots that are to body metal.
 
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$47K I've seen higher priced 100 series. Some people are price sensitive, others look for value. If that one was here I'd go look to see if it has value. You may like to post that one up in the classified section. I fear this thread got off course with buying and selling chat, it's a tech thread;)

Yeah I, didn't mean to highjack the thread. Sure I'm following this to apply at least some of the things to mine ☺️
 
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Sorry Paul - thread hijack in 3... 2...

What are you using as the final stage sealant? I just finished up the pre-sealant stages and need to pick a product!

Thanks!

Okay, not a total hijack - showing how badass that BGP paint is...
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(yeah - that faded body-side molding looks like complete &$#*! Gotta figure out a fix for that)
 
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Yeah I, didn't mean to highjack the thread. Sure I'm following this to apply at least some of the things to mine ☺️
No worries, just my threads get so long just on tech stuff, some complain.
2001LC,
That is beautiful work. We are lucky to be able to watch.
Thanks,
Dave
Thank you.

I work on organizing the first link in my signture line editing often as time allows. So be sure to look through the first link. We're only allowed 4 links in signture line here in mud, so I move stuff into that first link as a master for all to use.

Keep in mind what I do in 3 or 4 months you can do over years. Some stuff I do is extra work. By that I mean when pre-sold I do extra stuff buyer wants to meet longer term goals or for incremental gains. This is beyond fixing broken stuff, replacing missing parts or bring all PM up today. So don't think ever 100 series needs this stuff, but they all can gain incremental, giving the new car feel and performance.


Sorry Paul - thread hijack in 3... 2...

What are you using as the final stage sealant? I just finished up the pre-sealant stages and need to pick a product!

Thanks!

Okay, not a total hijack - showing how badass that BGP paint is...

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Not hijacking at all. No sealers, just finish with wax. What sealant are you using?

I learned a lot form you and @landylover21 Body trim polishing & correcting compounds Heck I once used cotton towels, no more. Micro fiber only to wash, dry and buff. I tell anyone coming in my shop DON"T TOUCH PAINT. So many people lean on paint or wipe their finger across unaware of damage they do to paint or time involved perfecting.

Note I don't tape plastic anymore.;)

Note: I've used dish soap to strip before any treatment to plastic or paint. But that is very strong and not usually used, and never after treatment.

Here basically what I'm doing:

I start washing then treating all bare (black) plastic and rubber with Lexol Vinylex vinyl/rubber/plastic conditioner, after first cleaning. This way DA pads don't turn black and gives conditioner chance to soak in. If compounds & wax's are used first they'll inhibit absorption of the conditioner. Remember, although bumper and side molding's are plastic it's painted and is treat as painted surface. As are wheels painted and treated as such. I don't get plastic conditioner on painted surfaces, or clean off with de-grease if not washing after.

I find cleaning paint really good, is key. After several washings with a good lucubrating car soap and micro fiber only. I then hit whole body with synthetic clay for speed. I've even at time used a chemical like IRON-x to remove iron afterwards as clay de-waxes.

I'll then use a chemical like lacquer thinner to get stains/stuff as needed, as I work around body with a regular aggressive clay lubricated with Mequier's Quik Detailer. It starches but no matter, as I'll come right behind it with DA. I often re-clay and do multi set of passes with D300 correcting compound and DMX5 (extra correcting pads) as I see paint better with each set. Top always (hood and roof) is where most water stains and issues from leaves, birds or what have you. As it sets on paint and etches into clear. So most time/sets of passes with DA buffer are done there. I've done 2 set on roof and 4 set hood of Merlot so far.

I've been using Mequiar's micro fiber system for a few years now. The D300 correcting compound is good stuff. Once pad is primed, it only needs a few drop of compound after each pad cleaning (ever 2x2' section), and dust is minimal. Stuff goes a long way. The 5" pads DMC5 tend to separate from foam backing to early IMHO. So I'm more & more using the aggressive extra cut pad DMX5 which does not have the foam back, works well. We've a very tough clear coat on Land Cruisers body paint that handle the DMX5 pad well. On painted plastic I go with a bit lighter pressure. On black paint around door window I go very light, or it burns through fast.

I finish up with D301 wax, which goes on fast. It's wiped off and buffed as it goes on, no wait!

Takes me 40 to 80 hours depending on paint condition to finish. This does not included chip repair and touch up. I know most do touch up first, which then wax doesn't need cleaning out. But I can see paint better and don't need to wait form paint to dry/set or two in the sun/lamp before cutting. Which letting set up reduces lifting out touch up paint with cut.

Some older picture but many of same products in my arsenal. Except Duplicolor as @Emcd had issue with which we both use on white trim under headlights. To be fair I didn't have issue, the short time I had after using on Snowy.
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That 3" cut pad is very helpful for not only tight areas. Also when I go back to hit a spot I really need to put power into. I've used for heavy water stained glass also even headlight plastic with correcting compound that aren't to bad benefit.
 
That may the first time I copied/pasted a forum post into a word doc! Thanks for ^that^!

I was using a sealant made by Varigon Solutions. Their chemist told me he started with C-Quartz and made some adjustments. I think he added some "will look like &@*$ in 9 months" to the formula, because this is what I ended up with:

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It looked like soap residue, acted like granite. I had to buff (polish) it off. So, now the truck is "naked".

Thanks again Paul!
 
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I've still working on my to do list. I'll start posting stuff soon. It is a great color, fit for Knights and Barons RIGHT!

We've not seen picture of ? Oh darn I forgot what your GF rename The Blck Knight to. It's acronym for "Butter smooths build like a tank"? How's it looking? Post pic in here....

"Butters" is the name! Short for "The Butter Tank". The truck looks great when clean and still nice when not. I haven't any pix of it recently since it's been quite nasty up here for a while with the snow, then warm up, then snow, then deep freeze, repeat. Living a mile back a dirt road makes it hard to keep clean! I definitely have to work to keep the undercarriage clean though.

Just removing those fender flares improved the trucks looks vastly. Makes sense why the dealer got them I guess, but they always detract from the appearance and are a point of wear on the paint. It looks like you're doing a nice job getting the paint cleaned up!
 
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That may the first time I copied/pasted a forum post into a word doc! Thanks for ^that^!

I was using a sealant made by Varigon Solutions. Their chemist told me he started with C-Quartz and made some adjustments. I think he added some "will look like &@*$ in 9 months" to the formula, because this is what I ended up with:

full


It looked like soap residue, acted like granite. I had to buff (polish) it off. So, now the truck is "naked".

Thanks again Paul!
Your so welcome. I normally get all cutting done before waxing, just letting sit naked. But this time I waxed each area, say like roof, as soon as I finished cutting paint with correcting compound.
As a fellow Land cruiser lover and flipper, i'm super jealous. My favorite color!
"Flipper", not what I consider myself. I take each one of these and work on if I'm keeping for life.

"Butters" is the name! Short for "The Butter Tank". The truck looks great when clean and still nice when not. I haven't any pix of it recently since it's been quite nasty up here for a while with the snow, then warm up, then snow, then deep freeze, repeat. Living a mile back a dirt road makes it hard to keep clean! I definitely have to work to keep the undercarriage clean though.

Just removing those fender flares improved the trucks looks vastly. Makes sense why the dealer got them I guess, but they always detract from the appearance and are a point of wear on the paint. It looks like you're doing a nice job getting the paint cleaned up!
Now I remember

Thanks Dace, it's coming along. Still I think the "The Butter Tank" has nicer paint.

I heard you. Even here with lite snow then warming it's getting messy.
 
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Nice looking rig. I’ve got that color in a 2003. It looks great but at certain angles or when it’s sunny you can see every little scuff, scratch and swirl mark. I’ve been thinking about re-spraying for a long time. Each to his own I guess
 
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Color doesn't show the lines as much as others... Nonetheless, nice rig
 
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Nice looking rig. I’ve got that color in a 2003. It looks great but at certain angles or when it’s sunny you can see every little scuff, scratch and swirl mark. I’ve been thinking about re-spraying for a long time. Each to his own I guess
Really try cutting and waxing, you'll be surprised. All colors get these swirls and scratches if one doesn't follows proper care, they'll stay clear if one does.

I learned long ago we scratch paint if we touch with any grim on it even dust!

I was good at cleaning my 01 LC The King, which I had for ~14 years. I'd not rub up against paint or allow anyone too. I'd make sure to clean fenders before putting on my fender skits for working in engine compartment. I'd never place stuff on unprotected paint. I'd used high pressure soap water to spray off grim before using soapy car wash bush.

But even with all care I took, my Thundercloud (silver) 01LC paint had swirls. That was from touching clean paint with other then micro fiber.

Today I use only micro fiber mitt to wash with good lucubrating car soap, dry with only micro fiber and re-wax as needed. My soapy water bucket has a grate in bottom so grim/sand drops to bottom. I no longer have swirls and paint pops after ever wash.

Color doesn't show the lines as much as others... Nonetheless, nice rig
IMHO, BGP Actually shows even more lines, depending on light and angles. The paint gives off different highlight of angle due to pearl. This in the 06-07 which are BGP, not sure what year Toyota began using. They older (IIRC 98-02) color looks similar but are not BGP

Like any dark color they'll show more dirt after a snow storm, but not as much as black. But that's not all bad as it tends to prompt one to clean. Before I fell in love with this color, Silver's was my favorite, now I've two fav's. But even Thundercloud doesn't pop like Black Garnet Pearl.

"Beauty is in eye of beholder" As they say!

The Black Knight Hope you don't mind @dace voit
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I see lines, but that's my eye.
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