Yeah I, didn't mean to highjack the thread. Sure I'm following this to apply at least some of the things to mine
No worries, just my threads get so long just on tech stuff, some complain.
2001LC,
That is beautiful work. We are lucky to be able to watch.
Thanks,
Dave
Thank you.
I work on organizing the first link in my signture line editing often as time allows. So be sure to look through the first link. We're only allowed 4 links in signture line here in mud, so I move stuff into that first link as a master for all to use.
Keep in mind what I do in 3 or 4 months you can do over years. Some stuff I do is extra work. By that I mean when pre-sold I do extra stuff buyer wants to meet longer term goals or for incremental gains. This is beyond fixing broken stuff, replacing missing parts or bring all PM up today. So don't think ever 100 series needs this stuff, but they all can gain incremental, giving the new car feel and performance.
Sorry Paul - thread hijack in 3... 2...
What are you using as the final stage sealant? I just finished up the pre-sealant stages and need to pick a product!
Thanks!
Okay, not a total hijack - showing how badass that BGP paint is...
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Not hijacking at all. No sealers, just finish with wax. What sealant are you using?
I learned a lot form you and
@landylover21 Body trim polishing & correcting compounds Heck I once used cotton towels, no more. Micro fiber only to wash, dry and buff. I tell anyone coming in my shop DON"T TOUCH PAINT. So many people lean on paint or wipe their finger across unaware of damage they do to paint or time involved perfecting.
Note I don't tape plastic anymore.
Note: I've used dish soap to strip before any treatment to plastic or paint. But that is very strong and not usually used, and never after treatment.
Here basically what I'm doing:
I start washing then treating all bare (black) plastic and rubber with Lexol Vinylex vinyl/rubber/plastic conditioner, after first cleaning. This way DA pads don't turn black and gives conditioner chance to soak in. If compounds & wax's are used first they'll inhibit absorption of the conditioner. Remember, although bumper and side molding's are plastic it's painted and is treat as painted surface. As are wheels painted and treated as such. I don't get plastic conditioner on painted surfaces, or clean off with de-grease if not washing after.
I find cleaning paint really good, is key. After several washings with a good lucubrating car soap and micro fiber only. I then hit whole body with synthetic clay for speed. I've even at time used a chemical like IRON-x to remove iron afterwards as clay de-waxes.
I'll then use a chemical like lacquer thinner to get stains/stuff as needed, as I work around body with a regular aggressive clay lubricated with Mequier's Quik Detailer. It starches but no matter, as I'll come right behind it with DA. I often re-clay and do multi set of passes with D300 correcting compound and DMX5 (extra correcting pads) as I see paint better with each set. Top always (hood and roof) is where most water stains and issues from leaves, birds or what have you. As it sets on paint and etches into clear. So most time/sets of passes with DA buffer are done there. I've done 2 set on roof and 4 set hood of Merlot so far.
I've been using Mequiar's micro fiber system for a few years now. The D300 correcting compound is good stuff. Once pad is primed, it only needs a few drop of compound after each pad cleaning (ever 2x2' section), and dust is minimal. Stuff goes a long way. The 5" pads DMC5 tend to separate from foam backing to early IMHO. So I'm more & more using the aggressive extra cut pad DMX5 which does not have the foam back, works well. We've a very tough clear coat on Land Cruisers body paint that handle the DMX5 pad well. On painted plastic I go with a bit lighter pressure. On black paint around door window I go very light, or it burns through fast.
I finish up with D301 wax, which goes on fast. It's wiped off and buffed as it goes on, no wait!
Takes me 40 to 80 hours depending on paint condition to finish. This does not included chip repair and touch up. I know most do touch up first, which then wax doesn't need cleaning out. But I can see paint better and don't need to wait form paint to dry/set or two in the sun/lamp before cutting. Which letting set up reduces lifting out touch up paint with cut.
Some older picture but many of same products in my arsenal. Except Duplicolor as
@Emcd had issue with which we both use on white trim under headlights. To be fair I didn't have issue, the short time I had after using on Snowy.
That 3" cut pad is very helpful for not only tight areas. Also when I go back to hit a spot I really need to put power into. I've used for heavy water stained glass also even headlight plastic with correcting compound that aren't to bad benefit.
Thank you!
I've been working on getting body paint ready for the winter.
