Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids!

[2001LC]

Next was seating the rivet nut by CW turning with 11/16" socket as I held with large nut with 7/8" open end wrench. I needed two hand for socket wrench, so I taped up 7/8" wrench.

I found that it only needed about 1 1/4 turns to firm up. As I said, the first one I way over-tighten and strip out, so it was tail and error to get it seated in properly. Then move to other side an repeated. That side was piece of cake as I now had some experience.

Now i could finial bolt up the bell pan. I used all new bolts that Slee provided in kit.

 

[abuck99]

I think I forewarned you about that belly skid .(95 pound hunk of steel) ...and getting the right size bit for the riv nut. (and have them install it)

I had the same issue- in fact slee should offer the correct size bit in their riv nut wrench kit-as an option including a spare riv nut insert, as its likley one will get fubarred during install.

 

[2001LC]

I think I forewarned you about that belly skid .(95 pound hunk of steel) ...and getting the right size bit for the riv nut. (and have them install it)

I had the same issue- in fact slee should offer the correct size bit in their riv nut wrench kit-as an option including a spare riv nut insert, as its likley one will get fubarred during install.

I remember you gave me full disclosed and you were right! Leaks Yeaks had the Slee under bell & skids. It was a PITA to service grease points and Lube. But I found them doable in place with extra effort. 200 series is worst, and I get them done in place also. I've shared the method in the 200 section. But know-one gets it. Could just be; my smaller grease nipple.

I did ask at "Slee" for correct drill bit, but they were out. So they just told me sizes of 12.5 mm min to 12.7 mm max.

Today, I wrestled in the intermediary pan and front skid. Man they're nice looking. Found best method for ground clearance I now had. Was to lie on creeper with skids on my crest and maneuver in place. I'm skinny enough, I just fit in like a wedge.

I was a bit disappointed I could not reuse wings (as I call them) that defect water and road junk from steering rack boots, they just can't go back in with the Slee front skid.

Later I re-torque the sliders in place, which was needed again, after moving bracket to clear belly pan yesterday!

I really, under-estimate how long this job would take. Even after your warning! But feel I could do with less effort, a second time around. 12 hrs was nuts!

 

[abuck99]

"I was a bit disappointed I could not reuse wings (as I call them) that defect water and road junk from steering rack boots, they just can't go back in with the Slee front skid."

They will fit- you have to install them before you tighten the allen head bolts on the diff drop- loosen all the front skid bolts back up to provide enough gap and they should slide in. I have the same skids and mine fit. I you need pictures let me know.

 

[2001LC]

I did have it that way. Found I had issue (not caused be wings) with bolt hole alignment was off a bit (to wide). As I had to use crowbar to force skid to inside, narrowing spread between LH & RH side. Just to get the last inner bolt of the wings in. This was with all other bolts loosely fitted. It was only the wing bolt holes that I had any alignment (spread) issue with. In wrestling with it I decided to just pull wings back out of my way, as Slee pictured. They were blocking my only good leverage point for the crowbar, and created a gap at front of skid mounting point. Removing them also allowed me to use the factory bolt, which are to short withe wings in. But their washer is narrower than the Slee smaller thick ones.

Was also thinking I could shave down the plastic at inner tips of wings, and install between skid and bolts.

I'm headed out now to teak T-bars today, before alignment tomorrow. I play around with wings some more, now that you've encouraged me. THANKS!

 

[hickuptruck]

For torsion bars, I'd play with it and set it, and then daily it for a week to see how it is. Torsion bars like coil springs take a couple miles to break in/settle and it might be a .1 or 2 inches lower after the end of the week. Then I'd bring it in for an alignment for OCD measurements.

 

[abuck99]

I did have it that way. Found I had issue (not caused be wings) with bolt hole alignment was off a bit (to wide). As I had to use crowbar to force skid to inside, narrowing spread between LH & RH side. Just to get the last inner bolt of the wings in. This was with all other bolts loosely fitted. It was only the wing bolt holes that I had any alignment (spread) issue with. In wrestling with it I decided to just pull wings back out of my way, as Slee pictured. They were blocking my only good leverage point for the crowbar, and created a gap at front of skid mounting point. Removing them also allowed me to use the factory bolt, which are to short withe wings in. But their washer is narrower than the Slee smaller thick ones.

Re: front skid alignment; on my front skid the bolt holes the wings fasten beneath are elongated to allow a little side to side adjustment and so are the mount holes under the radiator support. Surprised you needed to lever/crowbar the skid into place- doesn't sound like a normal fit. And didn't the Slee skids come with a hardware kit?

 

[2001LC]

I went back today and used bigger crowbar. Was able to bent the skids bracket in at the two elongated holes. They were, so tight, washer on factory bolt of inner elongated holes of each side were jamb into angle of metal.

Hard to see, inner bolt's washer is being pressed outward. So much so there is a gap (can't see, in the shadows) as it rides up on the angle of inner corner. Both LH & RH side are like this.

I trimmed back the plastic of wings.

I then used Slee supplied bolts all of the same size throughout front skid. That way no confusion of what bolt goes were during subsequent R&R of front skid. I did not use washer, as it would not fit at side, also would have then require longer bolts. I let wings themselves server as washer.

Using 20lb crowbar I bent in just a tad. This gave enough room so I could thread bolt in, provide no washer.
Wings in! Should be just fine.

But in all Slee picture I looked at the do not put the wings back in.

 

[2001LC]

So with all the off road extras (weight) installed. I filled it up with gas, set tires at 42 PSI and adjusted the torsion bars for "rake" & side to side level.
End up with a rake of ~1 1/4". This gave me a droop of only 1 7/8". Not much droop but until bumpers on Or add more rake, it will have to do.

Here the measurements from fender to center of hub.
------DS-----------------PS
FRT 21 7/8"------------21 7/8"
Rear 23 1/8" -----------23 1/8"
Drop 23 3/4 ------------23 3/4
Ready for alignment job tomorrow.

Then only clean, touch-up paint and a few odds ends left on my punch list.

 

[BCM]

Looks great Paul.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Alignment done. Feels better on city street now. I'll run on HWY and see how it feels/handles. @abuck99 @BCM what your thoughts. Seems caster is at factory spec isn't it? Is that optimal for TT UCA and the lift we've put in? I can take back if need be and have alignment tweaked.

 

[abuck99]

If truck were factory spec- ok its in the middle, but oversize tires, 2” lift , the target caster setting should be min 2.5 or 3.0+ to improve return to center, tracking and overall handling. Keep in mind that once truck gets loaded with gear it will steer lighter than it does now-

 

[BCM]

If truck were factory spec- ok its in the middle, but oversize tires, 2” lift , the target caster setting should be min 2.5 or 3.0+ to improve return to center, tracking and overall handling. Keep in mind that once truck gets loaded with gear it will steer lighter than it does now-

Agree. The current specs are acceptable but it’d be nice to have a bit more positive caster

 

[2001LC]

For torsion bars, I'd play with it and set it, and then daily it for a week to see how it is. Torsion bars like coil springs take a couple miles to break in/settle and it might be a .1 or 2 inches lower after the end of the week. Then I'd bring it in for an alignment for OCD measurements.

Agree. The current specs are acceptable but it’d be nice to have a bit more positive caster

I'm going to measure again today, now that I've gone on long test drive. See if springs and t-bars bars have settled any more.

I'll see if alignment shop can get me in today and increase caster today.

Took a 250 miles test drive. Through the mountains over two passes, reaching ~13K ft ASL, ran beautifully! Display avg MPG of 14.9 with the 33" tires. I'd guess true MPG at ~15.5.

Here the differences form stock I noticed:

1. 'D' (in drive foot on brake at stop) vibration and droning sound developed. My guess; that removing the "flex-capacitor" (as it's called) along with the large Slee bell pan and skids, is transferring more vibration throughout the frame. Anyone else experience this?
2. The sound we'd see from transfer case in the 98-02 or something close to has emerged. Most noticeable when pulling a load, like up a mountain pass. It seems bell pan has raised the transmission/transfer case just a tad higher than the stock cross-member support it replaced. I had notice during install that it seemed so, as I had the raise my jack hold transmission a bit to bring bell pan up to fame after contact with mounts on transfer case. Anyone else notice this?
3. Handling was really better than I though it would be. Center of gravity is higher than stock and higher than will be once bumpers on. But still it didn't feel like it had much body roll.
4. It did feel as if wondered just a tiny bit, in the seat of my paints. But, I did not need to constantly adjust steering wheel. It actually tracked nicely. The wondering may have been rear shock adjustment. I have shocks set at halfway point. Perhaps dialing up to 6 or 7 for HWY driving would be better. That and a touch more caster could smooth it out just that tiny bit more.
5. I could hear a tiny little rattle from ARB drawers. Possibly a tow hitch I've still in box sitting in one drawer. Or maybe they just need stuff in them to add weight to rollers.

All in all, it drove just fine. Not stock feel. But quieter and with better stability than I though it would have.

 

[2001LC]

Bell pan and transfer case vib.

My thinking is bell pan has raised transfer case. So that as engine has load on, the engine & trans mounts allow twist of drive-train (as they should). That transfer case than rides up into under-body near shiftier.

To this end, I decided to use spacer (washer) to drop the bell pan ~1/8". Not sure 1/8" if adequate but that's about thickness of one of the Slee fender washer is.

With jack under the bell pan for support and control. I pulled all the Slee frame bolts on one side of bell pan at a time. I took the Slee washer and placed between frame and pan, than reinstall factory frame and cross-member bolts which have a washer. The rear bolt that I drilled and set rivet nut for, is different size thread and head. So I reused the Slee bolt there.

Not a lot of drop, but may be enough to cut out transfer case hitting under body vib. Will see!

 

[2001LC]

A little house cleaning.

FSM recommends replacing later control arm bolts, just as it did lower rear shock bolts. Not sure if this is really necessary here, as factory rec may be out of concern for rust bolts. The old bolts on Merlot, are not rusty and in very good shape. But replaced RH anyway. It's the one that would be removed to adjust lateral control arm (pan hard)

 

[2001LC]

I've also bee working on the body paint. This didn't go well. I'm using an air brush for the first time. I think and need some practice and a finer tip. I stop touch paint for now. Just hit this spot where the fender flares rubbed through primer exposing body metal.

I started by cleaning metal with an acidic POR prep that removes rust haze. Then I sprayed in a two part epoxy primer (nasty stuff to breath, so respirator mask on), which is ready to top coat in 15 minutes.

The top coat cost me $60 for 4 oz, pricey stuff. It sprayed on hazy, not glossy like it should. I believe it's due to the spray pressure I used. I need lots more practice.

While that area cured, I moved to rock chip, scratches and what have you in area. These are ones that just broke through top coat. These still have primer in them so no need to de-rust or use my primer.

I use a hand microscope to inspect each chip in paint. I do this to make sure it's cleaned out of rust, dirty, calcium, wax or whatever. Anything left on/in surface and I'll not get a good adhesion and make worst than just leaving alone.

I did find what is either calcium or wax/rubbing compound or both in chips with microscope. I started with my mildest chemical to clean out, than work my way to my strongest. Nothing was make much difference. I got out pressure washer and tried clean out chips. It all helped a little but not enough. So I called Cortland detail shop in LA. He's does detail for high cars and Hollywood shows like fasten and furious. He's my go to guy for anything detail. He said at this point I should keep washing with HP. That it may take 20 or 30 washing over time. That if I try stronger chemicals, I may damage the paint. That patients is key here. Not what I wanted to hear. He suggest I use a paste wax with red color. That it will cover and look great. Bummer!

At this point I decided to wipe with paint reduces the one spot I shot, pulling off over spray and let it all be as is. It's rust protected where I found it needed, but not as pretty as I'd like. So I have to rate paint a 8 out of 10.

Epoxy primer shot on brae metal after clean up prep.

Top coat shot. To much pressure in air brush I think.

Wiped to remove haze and level off, with micro fiber wet with reducer, wrapped around plastic card for control.

Ugly but protected!

 

[2001LC]

Headlight lens haze.

Merlot had a little haze in plastic lens, mostly across top. So I used a 3M headlight kit. 3M has some great stuff, always a first brand choice for me!

Cleaning with soapy water then clay first along with taping and removing grill and lower molding.

Then 500 grit sanding. My 3/8" drill trigger switch broke, so found $30 replacement drill at home depot with top speed of 1,600 RPM, perfect for the job.

Then move to P800 grit.

Then trizact refining disk

Then rubbing compound.

Sweet!
Just waxed for protection for now. Ton of product on market from waxes, sealer, plastic film for longer term protection.

 

[2001LC]

Okay, so I went back to 4WH Parts to re-align. Here's the results.

Unfortunately I did not have gas tank full second time. As you can see alignment changed from driving, and less gasoline weight probably had it's affect also.

I'll try to set up a 3rd alignment in Colo Springs for Tuesday morning, just in case it feels off.

They're saying the TT UCA with OEM adjuster will not allow more Caster. That dropping front by CCW on torsion bar bolt will increase caster. I'll fill up the gas and recheck heights at each wheel to fender first chance.

I've not been on HWY test drive so don't know if feel same, better or worst.