Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids!

[bgolf247]

What and idea!

There are some companies trying to startup this idea. Pretty reasonable considering all the fancy rigs people buy/build and never take off road.

Just ran Hackett on Saturday. It has a could sections that are a little dicey for a rig that isn't yours.

 

[2001LC]

There are some companies trying to startup this idea. Pretty reasonable considering all the fancy rigs people buy/build and never take off road.

Just ran Hackett on Saturday. It has a could sections that are a little dicey for a rig that isn't yours.

Did you fish while down on the plate?

 

[2001LC]

BTW: How's the master brake cylinder doing since we rebuilt @bgolf247 ?

 

[bgolf247]

BTW: How's the master brake cylinder doing since we rebuilt @bgolf247 ?

There has been zero problems with brakes since we installed it. It appears to have fixed the problem.

 

[bgolf247]

Did you fish while down on the plate?

No, but it would be great down there. Technically the trails are closed at county line (completely unmarked) and you are supposed to know exactly where to turn around. 90% of people don't know this.

 

[2001LC]

R&R Torsion bars with mounting point at LCA bracket for added strength.

Tough Dogs (TD) Torsion bars are being installed as parts of the lift kit. I began the job measuring height from grease cap to underside of fender (also measured from bottom of wheel rim to underside of fender, as TD recommended):
Front LH 18 5/8" (27 1/4), RH 19 (27 5/8").
Rear LH 23 1/8 (31 3/4"), RH 23 1/8 (31 3/4").
That's a rake of LH 4 1/2", RH 4 1/8. OH MY! ....LOL Can I get rake down to 3/4", will see!

Next I placed front end on jack stands, removing wheels and sprayed penetrating oil at each end of: T-bars in the splines/teeth, nuts of front mounts and the adjusting bolt threads at rear of T-bars.

I then took pictures of adjuster bolt, bracket and their threads as reference points. I also counted the turns until pressure released off adjusting bolts as I removed them. I got 10 CCW on LH (DS) and 13 CCW on RH (PS). This was helpfully in the end.

PS had more CW turns on adjuster. I've notice this in the passed adjust out the "Toyota lean" on AHC systems. IIRC it shows this in the FSM also.

 

[2001LC]

Before removing T-bars, I placed center punch match marks at front and rear mounts, but found not really necessary. The inside of mounts have one spline missing that is the reference point. The front also has a casting mark at front, that aligns with reference point of splines. The TD replace T-bars are clearly marked with reference lines and LH & RH side.

I noticed the factory's installed T-bar had a depth line painted on them. This is not on the TD T-bars.
Hard to see but there is a center punch match mark I made on bracket:

Notice the caste bump near forward end of bracket. It aligns with missing tooth of inner spline of bracket, which is for alignment.

RH

Inside all braces/mounts, one spline/tooth is missing, which is alignment point.

 

[baltik]

Dumb question - where do you place the floor jack when raising the rear/front before placing your jackstands? do you use the pumpkin in the back and the flat spot on the front shield?

Next was to chock the front tire, so vehicle won't roll as I raising the rear of rig and placing jack stands under the frame foreword of bracket for control arms. I also place jack stands under the rear axle on each side of differential temporally. I then removed rear wheels, shocks and links.

View attachment 2012576
I kept my eye on the center brake lines dropping down from frame to rear axle/differential. Those and rear diff breather tube were pulled to max length.

 

[2001LC]

Took a little wrangling to get the T-bars out. The penetrating oil really helped here. I started with removing the adjuster bolt at rear of T-bars. Count CW turns until tension off bolt. Then remove nuts from front mounting bracket.

Once mounting bracket cleaned and greased, I found by sliding on the front mounting bracket past the splines on smooth part of T-bar helpful.

Then thread T-bar over transmission cross-member, into rear T-bar cage and into the mounting bracket. I made sure to align T-bars white line into missing tooth of mounting brackets. Once up in place I just slid the forward mounting brace back over the spline aligning as I did, then onto bolts in LCA. Since I'm installing TD LCA braces, those went on first.

****** Note: I went back and de-greased the points where T-bar brackets butts to LCA/brace. ****
At 166ft-lbf this is held in place by static pressure, rather than shear strength of bolts.

************ Grease needs cleaning off mounting point*****

I torqued down nuts in front mounting bracket to 166ft-lbf. Then I drilled the LCA for the TD braces. Starting at rear most braces hole. The only 10mm bit I had, needed sharping. I'd gotten it as parts of 4 boxes of used tools I paid $40 for. Undoubtedly the bit was used at to high a speed. I learned a long time ago; when drilling metal, go at slowest speed possible, with max pressure. So after I used the 10mm drill bit to mark center of drill point, and create a dimple. I used a new 5mm drill bit to drill a pilot hole. Than came back with 10mm drill bit. Took a little longer, but faster than running to store for new bit. I then torqued in the bolt to 36ft-lbf and drilled the forward hole. Drilling rear hole first and torque in, properly aligns the brace.

Without drilling and bolting in the bracket, it does little good as a brace IMHO.

 

[2001LC]

I said earlier: "I then took pictures of adjuster bolt, bracket and their threads as reference points. I also counted the turns until pressure released off adjusting bolts as I removed them. I got 10 CCW on LH (DS) and 13 CCW on RH (PS). This was helpfully in the end. "

Well as I threaded in the RH side adjusting bolt by hand, in went much further in by than it was. The arm went up further also. This lead me to question why? I found I'd clocked the T-bar off a tooth at each end. That by aligning my eye with bar and mark, I could see what at first looked dead on was not.

Look close and you'll see my center punch mark and the missing tooth/spline on on/in mounting bracket. Aligning eye ball with T-bar was key. It was much more sensitive getting this dead on than I thought at first!

So I pulled DS apart and read indexed. Now it seemed bracket position was much closer at hand tight point, as when removed.

I also went back and packed the holes I drilled with grease. This was because the metal drilled is now bare. Either paint, grease or add something as rust preventive made sense to me.

 

[2001LC]

Dumb question - where do you place the floor jack when raising the rear/front before placing your jackstands? do you use the pumpkin in the back and the flat spot on the front shield?

When raising the rear, I almost always place jack under the rear differential case. Then place jack stands under axle at side of differential case.

Sometimes, like when R&R coils or stabilizer components. I'll place jack stands under frame also. Just in front of rear lower control arm frame mounting points.

I do use the front skid plate right under main cross member at rear of skid (the round puck a bolt is up in) sometimes.

But I find more and more, especial when skids are off. I place jack under the frame at just in front or on transmission cross member or on the lager block of iron ("flex capacitor" as mud calls it). I place the jack stands just in front of this point, just before where frame curves up, most often, where FSM shows screw type jack point.

I have had occasion to place jack stand on frame just behind bumper or in front of rear bumper, but not often. Those spots need vert tall jack stands.

 

[2001LC]

So in but I'll wait to adjust. I've more to do that putting tension on T-bars, may make more difficult.

5 1/2 halve hours, won't win me any speed contest!

 

[2001LC]

Installing front lift kit (Shocks, UCA, extended links, differential drop) along with new front drive shafts.

I've seen so often, once a lift installed, even with diff drop. The CV's of front drive shaft (FDS) fail, soon than later. IMHO this is due to the angle CV have seated at, has now changed. So we elected to just replace the FDS now. When I install new front drive shafts. I like to replace differential side seals, hub flange and cone washers at same time.

DS is done with exception of link, hub flange and cone washer. Links I'll do after PS done. Hub flange and cone washer I'll get to very soon.

Once both side set on jack stands at frame. I pulled both wheels

Getting caliper off and set to hung to side, along brake line bracket, speed sensor and wire from top down was first. I ussaly hang caliper from UCA bolts/nuts, but fashioned a brass bar hanger for the first time.

Then removed grease cap and snap ring.

Pulling upper control was next, by busted loose ball joint nut (but leaving on end of threads.
I than place a bolt jack under the LCA for control.
I then separated knuckle from ball joint with a puller.

I then marked the adjuster that hold UCA in position, then removed the nuts and bolts with adjusters.

putting a Shock was most difficult to get top bolt released. The shock wanted to turn as I tried breaking loose the top 22mm nut. I started by 9mm open end wrench on top of shock stud. That just couldn't hold it. So I moved to a chain wrench to hold the shock, worked great!
Here the PS ready to have 22mm nut removed from top of shock, with chain wrench holding shock. Worked very well!

 

[2001LC]

Installed the TD shock first on DS, which reduce my working space and line of sight for NEW OEM side diff oil seal and front drive shaft (FDS) install (AKA CV). So when I do PS side, I'l do in this order, which will speed up the job:
Disassemble:

1. Set on jack stands.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Remove and hang; caliper with associate brake line and wheel speed sensor.
4. Place bottle jack under LCA for control.
5. Remove link.
6. Remove grease cap.
7. Remove hub flange snap ring
8. Break lose upper ball joint separating from knuckle with puller. Leave castle nut on loosely.
9. Mark UCA adjusters and remove nuts and bolt, pull off UCA.
10. Remove shock, holding with chain puller.
11. Remove FDS.
12. Remove differential side oil seal.

Assembly:

1. Install new oil seal in side of differential.
2. Install new FDS.
3. Install TD shock. (do not torque lower shock bolt, without weight of vehicle on LCA.
4. Install UCA. Use match marks re set adjust back where they were.
5. Reconnect knuckle to upper ball joint.
6. Install new extend link with lower bolt loosely and let hang until both side done.
7. Install new OEM hub flange and any needed associated parts
8. Install and set gap of hub flange snap ring.
9. Install grease cap.
10. Install links. Tip: Wait until one side done, then install opposite side link loosely, and raise LCA with jack. This pushing stabilizer bar up on both side, so other side link can easily be installed.
11. Install wheels.
12. Lower to ground.
13. Torque lower shock bolt and wheel lugs.

Note: I torque nuts and bolts to spec as I go. I don't like coming back to torque all in the end, as I may forget one. But with lower shock bolt weight must be on LCA when torquing in. So do last or place vehicle weight on LCA before torquing lower shock bolt.

The larger TD shock reduces working space for front drive shaft R&R. Replacing shock after FDS install will make job easier.

I loved the fact TD put a nut at top of shock. This allows easing holding place as I torque on top nut.

But I hated they did not grind down the wield casting (slag). As I torqued the top nut down, my 15/16 open wrench became jamb in by the excess wielding casting slag. I was not a happy camper as I ground down my rather pricey 15/16 open end wrench, to make thin enough so I could torque in the shock top nut and get the wrench back out. Yes I could have ground on the casting off TD shocks. But that meant removing and then rust protecting my ground down spot, and on both shocks, as opposed to one wrench.

PS torn down and new oil seal in differential.

PS bagged and plugged to keep out dust, as I awaiting parts.

 

[2001LC]

Parts came in this morning and I got right to work.

First putting third rubberized undercoating on mud flap replacements.

Then jumped right in, installing front drive shaft.

Then shock, UCA, and extended link.

Then Caliper, wheel speed sensor, brake line and brackets.

 

[2001LC]

New front drive shaft axles, deserve new hub flanges, yielding zero play in hubs.

I only replace hub flange nuts if they've become loose/sloppy on the studs. But I always use a little medium threadlocker blue.

I had serviced wheel bearings previously and used 2.6mm hub flange snap rings. After installing new FDS the 2.6mm were to thick. The next size down 2.4mm fit perfect.

Nice and tight gap, just like I like it!

 

[2001LC]

Slee Differential drop, was actually done yesterday as I awaited parts.

3/4 breaker bar and torque wrench really makes suspension work easier. 3/4" give so much more leverage.
3/8" and 3/4" side by side for comparison.

Slee Off Road give easy to follow instruction with diff drop kit. They're not really needed as job is straight forward. With one exception. The rear mount bolt is used for the front mount, and Slee gives a new bolt in kit for the rear mount.

Tip: Notice the old screwdriver, up between frame and wrench holding captive nut. This allows for easy removal of wrench once done torquing in. Without it, wrench becomes stuck up against frame when done torquing in the mounting bolt.


The rust removal took a little extra time. I was prepared as I always see this rust when I've removed any 3rd cross-member.
A carbon steel 1/2" wire plumbers brush works very well here. That and my wire wheel brush to clean the bolts. It all cleaned up well. I then wipe bolt shafts with Red-N-tacky grease and packed grease into bolt holes, to stop or slow future rust. I was careful to not get grease between cross-member and frame.

 

[2001LC]

I set T-bar with 14 CW cranks after finger tight with wheels off ground, as starting point. I've not taken off jack stand and driven yet, as I'm waiting on rear brake rotors from machine shop. Darn dropped those off Monday morning and still no call to pick up.

But I'll work on other stuff as I wait on rear rotors.

Change front differential gear lube, adding new washers/seal to plugs and torque to 36ft-lbf. Takes about ~1.8 of M1 75W-90.

I feed from above, until it follow out fill plug.
Notice air hole cut in bottom of bottle. gear lube flows slow, air hole helps.

Then I let settle for 15 minutes or more, and fill until follows again. This is also good time to recheck that the new OEM FDS have seated properly. See how there is very little gap between FDS and diff. Sweet!

Messy smell stuff that gear lube.

Here picture of FDS to diff. Here you can see dust shield of FDS is just inside of diff, perfect. I also pull on FDS, too see if it will come out of diff by hand, it should not more than ~1/8". Prefect!

 

[2001LC]

We decided to put some Slee extended center brake lines in. This way will not worry about the drop pulling on lines off road or when shops lift allowing wheels to hang. We never want to pull on break lines as it can damage them.

I find the upper flares to be difficult on 2 out of 3 100 series. lucky these were not mushroom to badly, and most important not cracked, as I see on 1 out of 3 RH side upper brake line.

Took extra ~hour dealing with removing both mushroom upper flare nuts. The recondition with a de-burring cloth (emery sand paper). Two ticks to this to cut down and round the mushroom.
I recondition by :
First, hold emery cloth on flare with brake line pointed down. This keeps debris out of brake lines.
Second, Turn only flare as you hold emery cloth on flare with fingers, rotating complet 360 to keep cutting into even. Do not turn emery cloth around flare as it may damage end of pipe flare and remove coating.

If I don't recondition first. Getting flare nut back on is to difficult. It would require a wrench to turn on flare nut on. I never use anything but my fingers to install and sung down flare nuts. It just to easy to cross thread this little guys.

I use only flare nut tool to break loose the flare nut.

To get mushroomed flare off. I genitally hold nut with vise grips, taking care to not crush the nut. Then I pull from below rocking and twist brake line off.

Inspecting flare nut for cracks is key

No cracks so good to reuse. Sweet! But final test will be if any leak.

 

[hickuptruck]

What are you aiming for with the front center hub to fender height? Maximum height to the point of 60mm droop?