Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids!

[2001LC]

Once I've new SS brake lines on and secured with washer and keeps. I torque flare nuts to 7ft-lbf. It's my starting point. If I find a leak, I'll keep adding torque 1ft-lb at a time.

I use crow foot flare nut on torque wrench for brake and fuel lines. And my 1/4 inch -lbf torque wrench.

I lost about 4 oz it looks like, and now have air in the lines. So re-flush and bleed will be done once I've the rear brakes rebuilt.

I spray with B-cleaner are to clean off best I could, then wiped with wet rage. Brake fluid is a paint remover and I need clean and dry for when I check for leaks after flush and bleed.

Cleaned off brake fluid from area best I could while in shop, with brake cleaner and a wet rag. As a rule I like de-greasing and power washer outdoors.

 

[2001LC]

What are you aiming for with the front center hub to fender height? Maximum height to the point of 60mm droop?

Good question.

60mm (~3") seems like a lot droop (rake). I was thinking closer to 1" lower front to rear. But I'll have and issue with weight (too lite for coil springs). As bumper are not yet being installed nor have they yet be chosen. I'll get sliders and skids on and all else ready to drive first. Then see what I've now got, and go from there.

I've should give TT a call, and speak with techs at Slee when I pick-up skids. See what they feel is safe for now. Also see what the alignment shop recommends (I'm using one that's been referred to me,for guys that do off road lifts).

This non stock stuff is new to me so it's step by step learning. Keeps interesting, but burns time.

 

[hickuptruck]

Good question.

60mm (~3") seems like a lot droop (rake). I was thinking closer to 1" lower front to rear. But I'll have and issue with weight (too lite for coil springs). As bumper are not yet being installed nor have they yet be chosen. I'll get sliders and skids on and all else ready to drive first. Then see what I've now got, and go from there.

I've should give TT a call, and speak with techs at Slee when I pick-up skids. See what they feel is safe for now. Also see what the alignment shop recommends (I'm using one that's been referred to me,for guys that do off road lifts).

This non stock stuff is new to me so it's step by step learning. Keeps interesting, but burns time.

No, droop as in downwards wheel travel. Not the rake. 2 inches of rake when I installed my ahc delete on my LX was ugly enough stinkbuggin.

 

[hickuptruck]

Good question.

60mm (~3") seems like a lot droop (rake). I was thinking closer to 1" lower front to rear. But I'll have and issue with weight (too lite for coil springs). As bumper are not yet being installed nor have they yet be chosen. I'll get sliders and skids on and all else ready to drive first. Then see what I've now got, and go from there.

I've should give TT a call, and speak with techs at Slee when I pick-up skids. See what they feel is safe for now. Also see what the alignment shop recommends (I'm using one that's been referred to me,for guys that do off road lifts).

This non stock stuff is new to me so it's step by step learning. Keeps interesting, but burns time.

So if the front wheel travel downwards from static (droop) is less than 50mm-60mm, ride quality starts to suffer. This really is the cryptonite of the 100 series torsion bar setup - 6.5ish inches of wheel travel . With the aftermarket UCA and it's alignment specs though, you got another .5 inches out it.

I found that when my hub to fender height was anything higher than 21.5 inches, the highway ride wasn't great and didn't feel very stable, and would feel like it was skipping at times off-road and highway.

Also off-road, you want as much downwards wheel travel. This is because when you're going up a steep hill and hit a bump, the wheel looses contact with the ground and skips.

Right now I have ~1.5 inches rake. My front is 20.5 inches hub to fender and rear is 22 inches hub to fender. Rides fantastic on highway and soaks up all the bumps no problem without feeling jittery. Got a Radflo 2.5 RR setup on OME 865s which is a 1.5inch medium load rear coil. Don't want anything higher in the front as if I put weight and gear in the back, it'll at least be level.

I don't remember what stock hub to fender heights were but at 20.5 inches, I think that's a 1 or so inch lift up front. Since you have so much experience with 100 series, you would know what that height is.

 

[2001LC]

Oh. I see what your talking about "DROOP" (drop)

So from neutral stance weight of vehicle on the ground, take measurements. Then jack up until front tires off the ground and measure how far downward hub(s) traveled "droop". That the more I CW crank t-bar adjuster lifting front, the more droop I'll lose.

I feel in stock, rake of 3/4"to 1" handles the best. Seem I'm around 19 1/2 front and 20 1/2 on AHC most times with full tank of gas. But I'd have to go back and look at my notes. My primary concerns has always been; first, right to left equal height, than to see about 3/4" rake within pressure ranges @PADDO has written/guides us all on.

Hopefully the set-up I've installed, which I understand Jason at TT was involved with choices. Will settle in and ride nicely on and off road, even at current lite weight (stock bumpers)

I've got to say, as interesting as installing and learning this stuff is. I can't wait to see how it settles in and handles.

I can tell you, this 07 no ACH stock with stock tires. Was the best handling most comfortable ride of any 100 or 200 series I've every had the pleasure to drive.

I've driven a lot of stock set-ups in 17 years, but not many built rigs more than a few block in the city! So I'm not much of a judge of built!

 

[2001LC]

Mud flaps replacements prepped, coated with rubberize undercoating and mounted in rear wheel well.

I posted one pictures earlier of mud flaps with third coat sprayed on. Here a little more on prep and install.

Cleaned with fine steel-wool and degreased, before shooting with rubberized Undercoating.

Looks good and should hold-up better than paint. Will also be easy to touch up.

 

[2001LC]

Link to stabilizer bar cushions replaced.

They wren't out of spec (worn/rotten/cracked), but not new either so just a little sloppy. So was after thought (after installing extended links); Seem good idea to replace along with the new extended rear links. Gives just a touch more stability and wear/age along with new extend link & upper cushions.

Grabbed a little Toyota rubber grease form my stash of Toyota greases, FIPGs, etc.
Toyota reflects in "sale price", how proud they are of this stuff..OUCH

A little lube here makes install easier and may just add to life.

These cushion get loose with age. Which can increase rear sway and may add just to a little clunk.

Once cushion in place, a dab of lube also aids in steel bushing inserting.

The most difficult part is ling-up the stabilizer bar to insert the bolt and torque down. Jack and jack stands are used to accomplish the task.

 

[2001LC]

Differential Frt & Transfer case gear lube change.

While on the jack stand, I drained and filled the gear lube. I'd lost some replacing differential side oil seals and FDS. It also been about 20K miles since all gear boxes last flushed and Dealership. A little early for a flush, as I like to replace gear lube of Frt Diff and transfer case around 30K. But good opportunity to get synthetic Mobil 1 75W-90 in. Note: Rear Differential I flush at ~60K, this one was done at 44K last and was it's second flush, so I'll not being doing at this time.

The front diff is easy to fill from engine bay with a clear hose connected to the bottle of lube. Frt Diff take 1.8qts. So once I near that amount, I look for lube to run out fill plug hole. Then allow to settle for a minimum of 15 minutes. Than top again until runs out fill plug a second time. Then torque in fill plug with new gasket/washer (always) to 36ft-lbf ( Same with drain plug, after draining). This takes a 10mm allen head socket. Note: vehicle need to be level.

Transfer case I just pump in 1.4qt, again let settle and re-top. Torque here with new OEM aluminium washer/gaskets is 29ft-lbf.
I've had this cheapo pump for near 20 years. Darn thing just won't die. Slow but works okay!

 

[2001LC]

Rear brake Pads & rotors.

Found 1 inner pad on DS down to 2.2mm thickness, others all around 3mm. FSM limit is 1mm. So the decision was made to do a rear brake job.

The way I drive, I could get perhaps 5K miles out of 1mm. But I'm so very easy on brakes. I avoid rush hour traffic, have a lite foot on gas peddle and always use transmission (engine braking) to control down hill speed, especially in the mountains. Regardless while setting on jack stands and wheels off, it was good time to get it done.

I always have rotors turned before installing new pad. So off to the machine shop they went. They come back with only the thinness amount of materiel remove and ready for new pad materiel to be bedded into them.

Tip: Compress piston into caliper on first caliper removed, while other still in place with pads in. This keeps other piston from coming out. You can then install the side with pressed in piston first. But two C-clap will work later if you don't.

Before pulling rotors, I always release e-brake and loosen adjusters of each e-brake shoes. Not doing this may pull on pads and bent or damage the components (wire & washer) that hold shoes in place.

Then with 8x1.25mm bolts threaded in, I pull/press off rotors.

I spray down with brake cleaner then do a wire brush cleaning clean. This insures a good flat surface for rotors to butt too.

A lite coat of grease will help keep cleaned & dry surface rust free.

 

[2001LC]

One of the rare times I see the oil defector and seal has not be wrapped and damaged. Damage happens when wheel lugs over torqued with impact wrench generally..

I wire brush back side of rotor also. Not bad Idea to do for taking to machine shop for turning.

Before installing I de-grease inner drum e-brake surface then back side of rotor pad surface.

Then three lugs are snugged down as rotor installed. This is to hold rotor onto axle hub flush while e-brake shoes adjusted.

Tightening adjust then backing off 8 clicks, so easy! Then replace e-brake adjust plug.

 

[2001LC]

I'll back up here a little. In the 200 series FSM they now recommends, placing match marks. So that rotor/drum can be placed back on as it came off. So I do this or keep axle from moving and use my adjusters holes at bottom to orient. This is not a big deal IMHO, but hey why not.

I use one dot for DS and two dots for PS (bk 1 & bk 2) made with center punch.

 

[abuck99]

Paint pen works good for this- easier to see for those with aging eyes. In my 05 FSM it suggests to mark the drum as well. Those e-brake shoes look great; lots of pad left ; are those original?

 

[2001LC]

Paint pen works good for this- easier to see for those with aging eyes. In my 05 FSM it suggests to mark the drum as well. Those e-brake shoes look great; lots of pad left ; are those original?

Yes they do. I tend you use punch marks, ever since I washed away marks while giving FDS a bath in solvent tank during a reboot.
I'll look closer at my 100 series FSM. Maybe it was just the first time I noticed was in the 200 series. Yes, original e-pads for sure.
I'm going to post a picture of old shims & pads. They show ghost imprint that you'll find interesting.

 

[2001LC]

So I've often installed the anti squeal shims horse shoe shape out, to match the shape of caliper. Just seems intuitive!

Stock photo, to illustrate what I mean "horse show shape". Also notice no wear indicator visible in photo of factory install.

But if we match horse show cutout with caliper, it puts wear indicator on out side also.
Then this would put solid anti sequel shim on inside. Then piston presses a flat underlining surfaces.

The FSM show wear indicator on outside, so this all seems correct orientation with horse show shape out.

FSM show a two piece anti squeal shim, which new OEM are just one piece as shown above.
FSM doesn't show a horse show shape "Anti-squeal Shim", nor cutout for wear indicator.
FSM does show wear indicator installed on outer pad.

Yet I found on this and other first time rear brake jobs (factory installed); factory has wear indicator on inner pads. Which then, horse shoe shim must be on inside to accommodate the wear indicator.

Here we see the ghost imagine confirms horse shoe shape shim on inner pad.

I have installed both ways. Neither seems to make difference in performance. But factory clearly is putting horse shoe shim and wear indicator "in"

On "Merlot" I used same orientation as factory; Wear indicator and horse show shim on inside pad, match they way they came out.

 

[2001LC]

I did not compress one sides caliper piston during disassembly. Now with both caliper off rotors, compressing just one side, would have pop out other side making a mess. So I used C-clamps on both side at same time to compress, so they new (thicker) pads will fit on rotor. This raises brake fluid level in reservoir, which monitor as so it doesn't overflow, and I'll bleed off later.

Once pistons compressed, I installed the pads I'd prep with shims and wear indicators. Kit comes with same package of grease, which I applied to between pads & shims and where ends of pads fit in caliper clips.

I did not pull boots of slide pins, as they looked good and were sealed on caliper nicely, and slides moved freely. If any boot would have be off (not sealed) or any slide pin sticking, I would have reconditioned.

Before bolting on caliper, I gave another wipe of rotor surface with de-greaser.

 

[2001LC]

Final step is torque the caliper bolts.

Before and after pads of the DS (LH). All other pads where !3mm just this one inner on DS was down to about 2.2mm.

After wire brushing wheel mounting surface, I grease where in butts to wheel. I do avoid getting grease on studs and wipe/de-grease off any that gets on them.

Rear rotor & pads ready to go!

 

[2001LC]

A little finish up before moving on to Sliders.
Bleed air off rear caliper and lines, from SS brake line install.

I did end up replace the rear lower shock bolts as FSM recommends. Is this necessary? Well not a big deal unless rust is found on bolts and the rust has scaled or pitted the bolt. I've heard stories of these and caliper bolts breaking off while driving or removing, so rust or just aged, why not replace.

Wheels also wire brushed at mounting points.

 

[2001LC]

"Sliders" R&R of factory & on with "While Knuckles".

Getting shield from PS front, out of the way is first up. This allows easy accesses to front bracket of running board mounting bolts. Then just move down the line and remove all bolts and nut retaining brackets.

Clean look, with running boards off!

Getting sliders in position for install, took a little Macgyvering...

Decided to center slider front to back position. Rather than move to even with leading edge of rear fender wheel well as instruction recommended.

Once clamps placed under between all brake/fuel hard lines and frame, so as to not crush any lines. Final was to lift as high as possible, this put clamps up against bottom of frame and gave gap of ~1" between sliders and rocker panels.

Several hours and old out and new in.

 

[2001LC]

Slee skids next. So drove out to Slee Off Road to pickup full set of "Skids" from will-call. They're about 15 miles from me, through the city, so takes awhile round trip in Denver traffic. So shoots down most of the day. Hey needed the break, anyway!

Took two of us, to place all three skids in the cargo area. The weight is mainly in the rear most bell pan, it is heavy. Slee give easy to follow instruction. I'm thinking 4 to 5 hours should be enough time. So got started at about 11AM next morning. Wong spent 10 hours wrestling the bell pan alone. Three hours due to me messing up two of the rivet insert nut, after drilling the frame for it. Darned if smash didn't the first one trying to pound it in the frame hole I just drilled. My drill bit was just a hire to small. Then second one, I over-tighten while using rivet nut tool to seat in frame, striping out the threads. I then had to carefully drill out, so as to not enlarge my previously drilled hole in the frame. Then I had to run to hardware store for more rivet insert nuts, days was getting long.. First ACE didn't have ,so ran across town to A&A Trading post Ace, they have some of best stock of metric bolts around.

Working alone with the bell pan added to my time wrestling it. Had to borrow a floor jack from neighbor and was a bit of trial and error all the way.

First was get front end supported on stand for extra work room and then transmission supported.

Next was remove dampener weight from frame and transmission cross-member.

That is just rust stain, it wipe off with my finger.

Next was rolling bell pan into place. A HF small dolly helped out here, avoid dragging across concert. I then worked floor jacks under the pan. This took some time, as I first tried from rear than realized jacks would be in my way. Coming in from side did not seems like good idea, as I need to have good rolling ability and room on the sides was limited. So I had to reconfigure the jack stands so I could slip jacks in from the front. This worked very well, just took time for trial and error to get a good workable configuration.

I than realized I had an issue with interference of slider bracket. My idea to center sliders, was not a good one. I had already torque in all 12 bolts of slider, and now needed to loosen them all up again. Time was getting burned up due to my inexperience!
1/2" Darn!

 

[2001LC]

Once I finally got bell pan up and in place I marked frame for holes that needed to be drilled.

Found I had three 1/2" bits, so started with smallest diameter one. Didn't want to oversize. As it turns out that was just a tad to small. I later used a stone to slightly enlarge.

Nice slow speed with lots of pressure, and cuts well without burning up my bits.

Next was setting up tool so I could pound in the rivet nut.

I used a 2lb hammer for the job.