Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids!

[2001LC]

Securing braces of drawers, need moving to match up with 100 series 3rd row seat locking points. Then each frame of drawers need to be bolted together. Final is to pound in two short pieces of rial between the two sets of braces. There was also a 1/2" wide piece of black plastic trim running along bottom rear, that need cutting off for fitment in the 100 series.

Once frame assembled it's time to place into the cargo area. They recommend two people for this part. But I found by protecting the lower hatch with carpet, cardboard and towels. I was easily able to lean on lower hatch and roll up into the cargo area. SWEET!

Once in place, I put the space under the braces and loosely bolted down.

Then trial fitted the side floor pieces to help align frame.

Installing side floor framing was next.

 

[aging fleet]

In 30 days, it's going to get so dirty.

Looks great Paul.

 

[2001LC]

I had one bolt of four on PS center brace, that would only catch about 3 threads the release, like bad threads. So I use a longer black (from engine coil on plug) bolt I had lying around. It's a bit long but not and issue. I will try to remember to install a shorter bolt later.

That long bolt, stick out a little in PS side compartment.

A set of tapered head screws come in kit to fasten down the forward side floor panels. The ends fill pieces are pre-attached to bracing and just need bolting to drawer frame.

Time for drawers which hard rubber/plastic stops must be reinstalled into. Also the sliding floor has stop that need reinstalling.

Now that complet drawer assemble is in, it's time to set final resting place. By closing the lower hatch door, I was able to move drawers assembly so door would close without interference.

 

[2001LC]

Then by opening sliding floors and drawers, I gained access to bolt securing assemble to floor of cargo area.

I love them!

 

[2001LC]

Air mattress and 2nd row seats folded, I could even get my GF to go camp with these used as a sleeper.

Fits like a hand in a glove!

 

[2001LC]

Install the rear lift kit next, which took ~8 hours. I'm sure I could do faster next time!

Getting organized placing parts around to orient, with taller coil on LH (DS) just like with OEMS.

I'm placing lateral control arm with locking nut on RH, so nuts will not contacted spare tire. I measured the diameter of the factory Lateral control arm at 34mm and the new Tough Dogs at 33mm. The slightly smaller TD lateral or AKA "Panhard" will make securing the spare tire a little easier. The 285 Ko2 fit very tight with stock PanHard.

 

[pili]

Looking good Paul!

 

[2001LC]

Next was to chock the front tire, so vehicle won't roll as I raising the rear of rig and placing jack stands under the frame foreword of bracket for control arms. I also place jack stands under the rear axle on each side of differential temporally. I then removed rear wheels, shocks and links.

I went after the top bolt on shocks towers first. Started by spray a little penetrating oil on the nut and bolt of shocks towers. Then used a 22mm flex head gear wrench @bgolf247 lent me. Thanks Brian, tool(s) worked very well. (I had ordered 22 & 24mm flex gear wrenches on-line. But seems a web seller of goods, was hacked. My order and funds were divert to China. Paypal made good on the funds, but I didn't get my wrench. I've since reorder elsewhere and waiting to see them.)

By supporting the rear axle with stands I was able to removing shock nuts without concern of weight of rear axle/diff pulling on shocks.

After getting the shocks off, I remove links. By placing my jack under rear stabilizer bar near link. This gave me control of stabilizer bar to take pressure off the link. Then I removed the links.

I then removed the PS jack stand that was supporting the axle and then placed my floor jack under DS side shock support bracket. This gave me better control of axle by raising the rear axle on DS at shock support. This helped lower PS axle so I could remove the PS coil spring and install the new one.

I kept my eye on the center brake lines dropping down from frame to rear axle/differential. Those and rear diff breather tube were pulled to max length.

Next was to drop DS side of the rear axle to get the it's coil spring out and new in. So I place PS jack stand back under axle and removed DS jack stand. I also place my jack under PS shock mounting bracket.

Keeping and eye on the brake lines, I saw they were stretch to the limit, but I still needed more drop to remove coil spring. So I pulled the retaining clips from the brake lines brackets.

This allowed the hard lines to slip through the brackets far enough to keep excess pressure off the flexible brake lines.

I also pull the breather line off the axle/diff housing.

 

[abuck99]

Front drive shaft axle where poking out box. They did good job of protecting dust shields/seals with bubble wrap. The two OEM boxes where also pack in one large box.

Are those CV's from McGeorge?

 

[2001LC]

With lines freed up I had plenty of room without worry of damaging the brake lines.

Next install the shocks.
I place both jack stands back under axle. I then installed the shocks, fitting bottom bolt loosely to hold them in place. I used the 24MM flex head gear wrench with a 9mm (IIRC) open end wrench to hold top of shock stud from turning, as I torqued down the shock tower nut. Took awhile as can only turn ~1/4 turn at a time. I then torqued the bottom bolt. FSM calls for new lower bolt, if removed, which I've on order.

New extended links next.
By placing jack under one end of stabilizer bar near link. It gave my control of stabilizer bar so I could install the extended links and torque them in.

Next lateral control arm.
I removed the arm and place next to new adjustable TD later control arm (PanHard). I set new length to same as the old, then added 2 1/2 halve turns as starting point. I just hand tightened the lock nuts for now.

Place new PanHard in and torqued it down. Here again Toyota recommends new bolts, which I've on order. I'll ask alignment shop to reset thrust line and then I'll install new bolts a lock in the adjuster lock nuts.

 

[2001LC]

Looking good Paul!

Thanks, it's all new to me so going slow at it.

Are those CV's from McGeorge?

There are.

I had to use one on fathers day, for a local mud member Jason (@CasaDeChaos DeChaso) that came down from Eagle/Vail CO. His boot was torn, and all the grease was out. With 100 mile mountain HWY drive to get home, I feared he'd blow out the inner CV and possible cause damage. Certainly get stranded if it blew. He seems to have a AHC issue will be address, when I've more time along with Timing belt and misc stuff.

I was planning on taking it easy and washing Merlot, but I saw it as an urgently needed repair!

We got PS front drive shaft R&R done in about 4 1/2 hours from inspection to clean up as I recall. We were moving fast, as he was and amazing helper. I felt like a surgeon, as Jason had tools in and of my hand like we were in and operating room! We just got hung up a bit, with upper ball joint. Darn ball joint stud was not torqued in and keep spinning. Nut and thread were damaged making it a PITA. But probably only added ~15 minutes to job. We struggled a bit getting axle shafts ends into hub and diff. Always tight job with knuckle on, but due-able.

So I order one more yesterday for Merlot. As you know, with lift, even with the diff drop, these FDS don't like change from where they've seated. So new FDS should save $ and aggravation in long run.

Shipping from McGeorge was ~$40 for the one. Better ordering in pairs as save on shipping spreading cost over the two.

 

[hickuptruck]

What a beauty Paul! All that love and work you give to Land Cruisers, this build and what you will use it for will return it all back + some more.

Really turning and going to be using this 100 series for it's full abilities. Hats off to you!

 

[2001LC]

Next was to seattle the rear end with a little driving then chech side to side position of rear axle to frame.

Merlot is setting high, I've 7' clearance: WOW

Setting behind and 06LC that I did a PP inspection, then timing belt job plus stuff, with 06LC AHC in High.
Stinky bug...LOL

After drive I check the side to side clearance. I came in at about 3 1/8 -+1/16 on each side. Darn lucky guess on the 2 1/2 turns.

I used a magnetic level to attach to frame to aid in measuring to wheel rim

SWEET!

 

[2001LC]

What a beauty Paul! All that love and work you give to Land Cruisers, this build and what you will use it for will return it all back + some more.

Really turning and going to be using this 100 series for it's full abilities. Hats off to you!

Thanks!

But, I'm getting reading for HIH for the boss (it''s new owner), as it pre-sold and all parts he's ordered for me. Only the best from what little i Know of off road add on.

I'd love to take on test run to the Plate, South of Chessmen reservoir and do some fishing. I found a trial many locals have been on. But I'm afraid I scratch it. It's not perfect paint and has it's blemish. But still not mine any-longer to have the fun with!

 

[2001LC]

I'm headed out for a walk with GF, on the trail out back of my house. Then back into shop for front end work next. Oh, also the Slee skids are in. I'll be running up to Golden to pick them up soon.

 

[hickuptruck]

One way to prevent scratches is you could cut fridge magnet material and cover the panels that are at risk of getting scratched. Then when you're off the trail, you can just take them back off.

 

[abuck99]

Thanks, it's all new to me so going slow at it.
There are.

I had to use one on fathers day, for a local mud member Jason (@CasaDeChaos DeChaso) that came down from Eagle/Vail CO. His boot was torn, and all the grease was out. With 100 mile mountain HWY drive to get home, I feared he'd blow out the inner CV and possible cause damage. Certainly get stranded if it blew. He seems to have a AHC issue will be address, when I've more time along with Timing belt and misc stuff.

I was planning on taking it easy and washing Merlot, but I saw it as an urgently needed repair!

We got PS front drive shaft R&R done in about 4 1/2 hours from inspection to clean up as I recall. We were moving fast, as he was and amazing helper. I felt like a surgeon, as Jason had tools in and of my hand like we were in and operating room! We just got hung up a bit, with upper ball joint. Darn ball joint stud was not torqued in and keep spinning. Nut and thread were damaged making it a PITA. But probably only added ~15 minutes to job. We struggled a bit getting axle shafts ends into hub and diff. Always tight job with knuckle on, but due-able.

So I order one more yesterday for Merlot. As you know, with lift, even with the diff drop, these FDS don't like change from where they've seated. So new FDS should save $ and aggravation in long run.

Shipping from McGeorge was ~$40 for the one. Better ordering in pairs as save on shipping spreading cost over the two.

I guess McGeorge forgot how to pack CV’s- after I reemed them out on my first set, they did a great job on the subsequent shipments. For a while anyway.

 

[2001LC]

I guess McGeorge forgot how to pack CV’s- after I reemed them out on my first set, they did a great job on the subsequent shipments. For a while anyway.

Yeah, I said something to them in my order, and referred too you get then to pack properly. But, even though the axle poked through the box, they had well bubble wrap. The dust seal & shield were fine.

 

[2001LC]

One way to prevent scratches is you could cut fridge magnet material and cover the panels that are at risk of getting scratched. Then when you're off the trail, you can just take them back off.

What and idea!

 

[OEMGUY0720]

what a build!