SBC clutch questions (1 Viewer)

[NKC]

SBC, 3 speed. Hydraulic clutch.
I think my throw out bearing is going out, squalls when clutch pedal pushed in. Clutch fork keeps the bearing touching the clutch fingers unless I push the bolt back into hydraulic and take pressure off fork. I can see that I can adjust the preload (?) on the fork by moving the nut. That bolt/threaded shaft has a plain nut on it's end, just wedged into the fork, kinda moves around...is there a specific adjuster nut that fits the fork better than that? Seems like a rounded one would work better. Tried the search but didn't work for me right now.

 

[pb4ugo]

Yes, I'm pretty sure most have a rounded nut with a lock nut. Looks like your missing a return spring too.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'll second @pb4ugo - there should be a round adjuster nut that indexes in the clutch fork. There should also be a return spring to provide constant tension to "pull" the throw out bearing off the clutch slightly. With neither, adjustment is nearly impossible and you'll wind up with the bearing riding your clutch, and premature failure.

 

[NKC]

Where does the return spring go?

 

[middlecalf]

Something like this. Ignore the arrows.

 

[NKC]

Thanks! I get the idea now, appreciate it!

 

[NKC]

Now I need to check into the round adjuster nut thing. What would I search by name for that part?

 

[Cat Scan]

I have a SBC, 4 speed Hydraulic clutch. Return spring fell off. Ruined my clutch. Heed the warning.

 

[Downey]

I see some real issues with your set-up that I would discuss with you privately. For starters though, it appears your slave cylinder is mounted to a bracket that is welded to the frame ???. To correct this, look at my ebay #264275501163, 3rd photo. This is a slave cylinder mounting bracket that mounts the slave cylinder onto the bellhousing where frame flex/movement won't affect clutching. This bracket could be modified so that it points your slave cylinder push rod directly towards the inside hole in the shift fork- - -your push rod is presently pointed to the outside hole in the shift fork where it takes more slave cylinder travel to disengage the clutch. My guess is you were not getting enough travel at the throw out bearing to fully disengage the clutch, sooooo the slave cylinder push rod was adjusted to where the throw out bearing was always riding on the pressure plate fingers ALL the time, and that waisted the bearing. My other guess is you are running a regular Chevy clutch, which takes more travel to disengage than my Chevota specific clutches take.

 

[Drake2]

I actually thought the OE clutch fork did not have those slots in them, only a dimpled area for the rounded nut to ride in. Also, side note….it looks like you may have a crack on your bellhousing mounting bracket (vertical weld from the bracket to the frame.)

 

[Downey]

NKC, I tried to send you a private message to get you on the right track, BUT evidently "NKC" is not a good enough Mud address to get a message to you ??? Perhaps if you send me a private message I can respond to it- - -easy deal.

 

[pbgbottle]

That’s looks like the correct low profile pressure plate to me. ,he just needs to sort out his slave cylinder location and get the push rod in the other hole and it should work a lot better. That is if the TO bearing isn’t toast
That bellhousng looks funky. He might benefit from your rear tcase mount
Downey (Jim) also ya don’t see bellhousing mounts used very often on a V8 conversion. Shift fork may be worn out also sometimes the bearing will spin in the fork also wearing away the fork tips

 

[NKC]

NKC, I tried to send you a private message to get you on the right track, BUT evidently "NKC" is not a good enough Mud address to get a message to you ??? Perhaps if you send me a private message I can respond to it- - -easy deal.

I'm rusty at this, is "start conversation" a private message?

 

[NKC]

That’s looks like the correct low profile pressure plate to me. ,he just needs to sort out his slave cylinder location and get the push rod in the other hole and it should work a lot better. That is if the TO bearing isn’t toast
That bellhousng looks funky. He might benefit from your rear tcase mount
Downey (Jim) also ya don’t see bellhousing mounts used very often on a V8 conversion. Shift fork may be worn out also sometimes the bearing will spin in the fork also wearing away the fork tips

I
Feels like bearing is toast, I had stopped fiddling with the underside of this thing, got most everything else wired and working. Finally bought a 4 post lift so I can get to the underside comfortably. Was really absolutuley no fun any more doing the creeper thing.

 

[NKC]

I actually thought the OE clutch fork did not have those slots in them, only a dimpled area for the rounded nut to ride in. Also, side note….it looks like you may have a crack on your bellhousing mounting bracket (vertical weld from the bracket to the frame.)

I'll look! thanks

 

[Downey]

I'm rusty at this, is "start conversation" a private message?

Yep !!!!!

 

[NKC]

Yes, the weld is cracked there.

 

[NKC]

Downey (Jim) also ya don’t see bellhousing mounts used very often on a V8 conversion.

This is really the only FJ40 I've ever seen up close, so I'm listening!

 

[NKC]

41/2 years later. getting ready to sell the old beast so I'll finish this thread.
Update: new radiator, new gas tank, new TRE's and stabilizer, new rear spring bushings and shocks, got the the lights and wipers and stuff wired up. Starts, stops, doors and windows work. Thinking that I've reached the end of my To Do list this vehicle. Love the way it looks, been fun!

Throw out bearing was fine, replaced it anyway. The noise was the pilot bearing, needle bearings shot. That thing came out the hard way. Like with a chisel! New bushing installed.