Adios Pueblo, Hello Denver
"I went outside. And there in the blue air I saw for the first time, far off, the great snowy tops of the Rocky Mountains.
I took a deep breath. I had to get to Denver..."
--Jack Kerouac, On The Road
I awaken at 0600, pre-dawn, and flick on the morning weather report. Clear skies and zero precipitation between Pueblo and Denver, just what I want to hear. My friend Jorge is long gone and I'll have to forage for my own breakfast, but we're waiting on a parts delivery so there's ample time to chow down. I decide to revisit the Southwest Grill next door. The waitress brings a mug of coffee without my asking, then suggests the daily breakfast special, a meat lovers skillet dish. She says it's two eggs on a bed of fried potatoes topped with a heap of bacon, sausage, and ham and melted cheese. She points to a guy at the next table devouring the same dish. It looks like a concoction that would shut down my coronary arteries within seconds. I'm determined to make it to Denver alive so I graciously decline and instead order a training table athlete's breakfast--eggs, sausage, biscuits, hashbrowns. No cholesterol there, right?
I stop by the motel office and there's the same affable clerk from yesterday afternoon, looking even more haggard than before. He must be pulling a 24 hour shift, but he's still cheerful as ever.
Me: "What's the checkout time?"
Clerk: "11 AM"
Me: "Would it matter if I can't get out by then?"
Clerk: "Yes. Maid leaves at noon."
Me: "And?"
Clerk: "You're late, you pay for another day."
Me: "Can I check out and leave my bag at the desk?"
Clerk: "Do I look like a bell hop?"
Me: "So that's a no?"
Silence....dirty look. I'm impressed that he even knows about bell hops. Maybe he worked his way up to desk clerk from bell hopping. I check the time and it's only 0830 so I return to my luxury suite, shower and cram my junk into the duffel bag, leave it by the door and begin walking to Pueblo Toyota. I make it by 0930 and find all the sales guys standing in the shop doing their coffee and doughnut routine. Like yesterday, they're standing in a semi-circle around The Turtle. If I didn't know better, I'd say they were engaging in a religious ritual. Heck, maybe they are? I grab the attention of the nearest salesman, the same one who found a vacant office for me yesterday, and ask if someone can give me a ride to and from Motel 6. He says he'll do better than that, goes to a key board and gives me a set of keys to a new 100. He says I can take my time, it's a demo. I ask if he needs to see my driver's license or proof of insurance and he says that won't be necessary....because everyone knows I'm the guy in the old FJ40. Luck of The Turtle.
I drive back to the motel in style and before leaving the room, I call Steve in Denver with a travel update. He posts this to the 3FE list.
"Commander Armstrong Update
Just got off the phone with the intrepid wayfaring 3FE traveler. He is checking out of the fleabag motel he has been holed up in the last two days and is preparing to sit in the customer service lounge at the Toyota dealership in Pueblo. He sounds to be in good spirits and hopes to be back on the road by mid-afternoon and into Denver just about rush hour. I may just see him yet! It sounds as if we will have to effect some repair/modification to the windshield/roof junction as he has been getting splattered by bug parts and taking on large quantities of water due to some missing weather-stripping – nothing two kludgers can’t handle. Then he will be off to Sheridan, WY for tomorrow night’s lodging. His schedule is off by two and a half days now so his well-planned itinerary is being rearranged on the fly. I’m sure he will be online tonight to give a personal accounting of his travels so far. Stay tuned! --Steve"
I load up my bag and drive around front to check out, with 30 minutes to spare. The clerk seems disappointed. Probably because he won't be able to sell me another night.
Clerk: "I thought you didn't have a car."
Me: "I didn't, yesterday. Picked this baby up at the dealership this morning."
He has a look of disbelief, comes out from around the desk and follows me out the door. He stands there gawking as I drive away in the new 100 with a clearly visible $65K window sticker. I'm sure he's wishing he'd been nicer, now that he knows I'm a high roller.
Back at the Toyota dealership I return the 100 keys and ask where I can store my bag. The salesman says "Why don't you just put it in your office?" My office? Works for me. I talk to the service manager and he says the clutch parts are scheduled for delivery by noon, by FEDEX. He says if the truck is on time, I should count on two hours for installation. He promises that when the parts arrive, they'll stop whatever work is in progress and make it a priority to get me out the door by mid afternoon. I don't know if Yooper is watching the 3FE list and I'm sure his brother is not, so I call with a report. He already knew John Hocker had located the parts, and he's pleased that we're back on schedule. He says he'll pass the word on to his brother. I'm not sure what happened next or how Yooper pulled this off, but less than an hour later I get a call from the man himself, Uncle Meldon. He's somewhere at sea. It's our first conversation; he's calling to say hello, and see if he can be of any assistance. I jokingly tell him that yes, he can pay the repair bill, and he asks that I put the service manager on the phone. A few minutes later and it's a done deal. Uncle Meldon has arranged to pay the repair tab via a sea-to-land phone connection. Our conversation is barely over when a big FEDEX truck pulls into the parking lot. I go out to watch the delivery guy unload and there's at least a couple dozen boxes for the dealership, mine buried somewhere in the stack. It's 1130.
While they're sorting through the packages I meander into the service area to ask if I can hang out in the shop while they work. No one has stopped me from going anywhere yet. Apparently I have the run of the place, including my own office. Lennie and George, big tech and little tech, come walking in with a shopping bag full of subs. Lennie says he hopes I like subs because they bought an extra for me. He says there's an assortment and I can pick what I like. I find a loaded smoked turkey and swiss and ask how much I owe him. He says it's his treat, and I can buy him a beer the next time I'm in Pueblo. I take the deal and tear into my sandwich.
Lennie walks over to ask how far I intend to travel this afternoon and I tell him I have to cover 120 miles to Steve's house in Denver. I hope to squeeze into town ahead of rush hour traffic. He checks his watch and says that he'll have me out in less than two hours. Then he and George spring into action like an Indy 500 pit crew. After a quick bleed, George is swapping out the slave at the same time Lennie pulls the master. They do this without even speaking and I'm impressed that they don't need to communicate. Master and slave are in and Lennie says he needs a few more minutes. He checks fluids and tire pressure and wants to take a short test drive but discovers that he's too tall to wedge in behind the steering wheel, so George gets the honor. He's gone no more than ten minutes, drives back into the service area and pronounces The Turtle fixed, good as new. It's not quite 1330. I call Steve again with an ETA of 1600, but before I leave Lennie asks if I'd mind if they take a couple of photos. It's a small thing. No way I can object to that. They get the service manager to snap a few poser pictures of the two of them with The Turtle. This is too cool. How often do you find a dealership mechanic who wants to be photographed with a vehicle he just repaired? More Turtle magic.
As I climb behind the wheel and back out of the shop, Lennie and George and the service manager and several salesmen come out to the parking area and they all wave as I pull away. The only thing missing from this sendoff is young Jorge and the Motel 6 clerk, and possibly a big brass band. With a tear in my eye, I wave back and we're off. Adios Pueblo. Ten minutes and two miles later we're on Interstate 25 heading north for Denver. I push the old 2F up to 65 and crank up the music. Without too much effort I lock in FM 103.1, Denver's "Cruisin' Oldies" station. Perfect. The first thing I hear, The Stones...
Start me up
Give it all you got
Ride like the wind at double speed
I'll take you places that you've never seen
Start it up
Driving and listening, I begin to reflect on the remarkable chain of coincidences that has led me to this place. My oldest friends in the Cruiser family are Yooper, Steve, and John Holmaas, AKA Landpimp. I first met John in 1999 in Gig Harbor, Washington, on the way to our son Clay's wedding on Vancouver Island. A year or so later I drove to San Antonio to meet Yooper, and shortly afterwards I met Steve at a 3FE Bash in Granite Shoals, Texas. Friendships that endure to this day. I'd been in British Columbia and only returned to Austin days before Yooper found The Turtle. Could the timing have been better? I don't think so. And now I'm driving a 30 year old truck belonging to Yooper's brother, whom I've never met, to Denver where I'll see Steve, then on to Seattle where John will help with shipping logistics. Serendipity? I dunno, but it sure seems that way.
Smooth sailing all the way to Denver and right on schedule, it's barely 1530 when I pull up in front of Steve's house. Steve and his lovely wife Suzy are waiting. I'm so relieved to be in a familiar place and among friends after a week of camping and low down motels that I may have fallen through their front door. Later that evening, after decompressing and spending some quality time with The Turtle, I borrow Steve's computer to send this message to the 3FE list.
Dunbar, and Gentlemen of the Order of 3FE:
After driving 1,800+ miles across Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, and Colorado, and one mechanical breakdown, all is well and I’m still able to move around without assistance. I’m presently sitting in the command control module of the Crase brain center somewhere in the heart of Denver, having safely arrived around 1530, just ahead of rush hour traffic. Uncle Meldon's FJ 40 now sports new genuine Toyota clutch master and slave cylinders, thanks to the assistance of our friend John Hocker, and the efficient staff of Pueblo Toyota. It’s been a productive evening since my arrival. Steve and I made an emergency trip to Applejacks, where we stocked up on provisions for the evening, including but not limited to Left Hand Milk Stout, Yeti Imperial Stout, and various other micro-brews of Steve’s choosing.
Upon completion of this mission and drawing on Steve’s vast experience as a former 40 owner, we conducted an exhaustive inspection of the old Road Warrior. Steve adjusted a wobbly pitman arm, attempted to finesse a questionable steering U-joint, and greased several overlooked zerks. I rerouted the sloppy horn (doorbell) wiring, replaced the Weber's buggered up electric choke lead, braced a loose battery bracket, and, uh, sampled several malt beverages.
Having enjoyed an excellent home cooked feast, we’re heading back to the garage to address the most important maintenance issue on the table--weatherproofing. Tomorrow morning I’m heading to Sheridan, Wyoming, where the latest weather forecast calls for freezing rain, heavy snow, and a high temperature in the low 30’s. Since there’s no weather strip between the top of the windshield frame and the hard top, we intend to weatherproof the old girl using what is sometimes known as the "Baldwin Technique," covering the sucker with several layers of duck tape.
Duty calls, or maybe that’s Steve I hear, so I’m off to his garage again. I’ll try to report in periodically whenever I can find a computer. Keep your fingers crossed…the most interesting part of this odyssey is still ahead, and apparently the most interesting weather too. A-Ron and Holmaas, I’ll call you guys when I get a little closer. I should be hitting Spokane on Sunday afternoon, and Seattle on Monday.
And the road goes on forever, and the party never ends…
Commander Armstrong, carrying the 3FE banner to the hinterlands and beyond
Yep, that's right, to be continued...