The Mother Road--Part One
If you ever plan to motor west,
Travel my way, take the highway that is best.
Get your kicks on route sixty-six.
-- Bobby Troup
John Steinbeck was the first to call US Route 66 The Mother Road. Others referred to 66 as the Main Street of America. It was both. Construction began in the 1920's and once completed, Route 66 would become the first US super highway, two continuous lanes of concrete originating in Chicago and snaking almost 2500 miles across the American West. I can trace my love of the road directly to a 1960's television series, also called Route 66. It featured two handsome young guys, Buzz and Todd, exploring The Mother Road in a '60 Corvette convertible. There was no continuing story line. They'd drive from town to town, stop for a few days, have an adventure, then move on. No matter how small or nondescript the town there was always excitement in store, and often romance. All the episodes were filmed on location, and watching the show was almost like being there. Every week I'd lose myself in that show and dream of being in the Vette, just me and the open road, chasing adventure. Life got in the way of that dream for a few decades, but now it's 2005 and here I am. From my parent's house in Oklahoma City, The Turtle and I creep through their sleepy neighborhood for two long blocks, turn South on Meridian Avenue, then another mile and we turn West, onto The Mother Road.
Lookin' for adventure...(Yeah, I know, Steppenwolf)
One of my friends from college, Tom, is an oil and gas attorney in Dumas, Texas, 300 miles from Oklahoma City. 300 miles also happens to be the maximum distance I can tolerate The Turtle's petrified seats without taking a break. Perfect. I haven't seen Tom in a dozen years, but we stay in touch. From what I can gather he's done well. He owns a ranch in the Texas panhandle, and he's offered the use of his guest house for the night. Good for me, good for the old travel budget. Today I plan to follow Route 66 westward through Yukon and El Reno, Hydro and Weatherford, Clinton and Elk City, then on toward Amarillo and finally Dumas, 50 miles north of Amarillo.
The weather couldn't be more spectacular. Oklahoma has bitter Winters but even though it's April and should still be frigid, I'm looking at clear sunny skies and 70 degree temps. I'd call it inspiring. I open the kick vents and tune in KOMA, an iconic AM oldies station I've listened to since the 60's. It's one of those monster stations you can pull in for hundreds of miles and I feel certain it'll stay with me through the flatlands all the way to Dumas. So The Turtle is cruisin' down the old Mother Road, humming along at an easy 55 mph clip, and I'm feeling a happy little bounce from the suspension at every concrete expansion joint. KOMA doesn't let me down. Exiting Yukon I hear Tom Petty...
It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down
I had the radio on, I was drivin'
Trees flew by, an' me and Del were singin' Little Runaway
I was flyin'
Yeah runnin' down a dream
Beginning in the early 1960's, Route 66 began to lose popularity. Life was faster, people were in a hurry to get places, and by then there were 4 lane, high speed highways that would take you most anywhere without seeing so much as a single stop sign. Today, somewhere around 80% of The Mother Road is still open, including almost 400 miles in Oklahoma. I'm in no hurry and I'm enjoying this nostalgic drive. There are long stretches of this road where you could close your eyes, blink, and think you've stumbled through the twilight zone and been transported back to the 30's. Old road signs, boarded up gas stations, dilapidated motels--they're all still here, and likely there's a thousand great stories behind every one. I'm enjoying the scenery and wondering if I'm retracing any of the steps taken by Buzz and Todd.
I've driven sections of this road before, and I know a little history. After Yukon comes El Reno, founded at the time of the 1889 Oklahoma land rush, supposedly the place where the onion burger was invented, and the location where a scene from Rain Man was filmed. Yep, Tom Cruise and Dustin Hoffman spent a few days in this little burg, filming at the old Big 8 Motel. Next month is the big event of the year in El Reno, their Fried Onion Burger Festival. I'll miss it by days, darn it. On down the road is Hydro, where people still come to be photographed in front of Lucille's Gas Station. Built in 1927, in it's heyday Lucille's was known as the Mother of The Mother Road. Out back you can see the remains of an old tourist court where motorists could stay for $2 a night. The station finally closed in 2000 and now it's designated as a National Historic Site. Lucille herself is buried somewhere on the property, probably keeping watch. After Hydro is Weatherford, home of the 66 West Twin Drive-In. To my amazement, this old dinosaur is still open for business. They're showing War of the Worlds and Batman Begins, a double feature. Don't see many of those any more. I pull over and snap a photo through the window and as I pull away, I see trouble.
Weather in these parts can change on a dime and even though I diligently checked the long range forecast before leaving, off to my left there's a big black cloud puffing up in the sky. What the hell? Where did that come from? This wasn't supposed to happen. I can't gauge the distance. It could blow away before I get there, or stay put and wreak havoc. Sudden storms here are legendary and I can imagine me and The Turtle being picked up and rudely deposited in the middle of a wheat field, upside down. I've been driving less than two hours and OKC is only 75 miles behind me. I weigh my options. I can turn around, or mush on. I decide to mush on. The next town is Clinton, about 20 miles away. I can't remember anything about Clinton except for a good Bar-B-Que joint, Jiggs Smoke House, on the outskirts. At least I know there's civilization ahead and if there's a storm, there's bound to be shelter.
....to be continued