SASing my 100 (2 Viewers)

[RustyLinkz]

I’m gathering parts to SAS my 100 series. Got a set of 80 series axles (unlocked) with a steering box for $200 (the price was right).

I saw front range sells a 79 series front hub to swap onto the 80 series front to retain the 5 lug pattern so I’m leaning this way to keep my stock rear semi-float axle with a factory e-locker/ wheels/ tires. I was debating between switching to the 6 lug 80 series axle and swapping both axles but keeping the factory 100 rear makes more sense at this time.

My question is as follows: is there a way to convert the 100 series semi- float rear to a full float design? Front range also sells a 79 series full float rear hub. Does anyone know if an 80 series spindle would bolt into the 100 series rear? Or would I need some custom machined parts to run a full float rear? I’ve called front range and emailed them but no replies yet.

I’d prefer a full float rear but I’d make do with the semi float just to keep the stock 100 series axle for now.

 

[sr5pickup]

Modifying your current rear axle would require a lot of work, cutting off the semi float flanges and measuring, jigging, re-welding new full float spindles, etc. Might be easier to build a new rear full floater from scratch, just tell them (Front Range) you want it to 80 series specs but match the with of 100 series wms, so 2.5 wider per side if I remember correctly. My front axle from Front Range (Diamond) for my 100 was done that way, 80 series specs but 2.5” wider per side to match my 100 rear. Email front range again. I didn’t get a response from them the first week I emailed and emailed again the second week and I got a response. Just waiting for my front to be built.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Modifying your current rear axle would require a lot of work, cutting off the semi float flanges and measuring, jigging, re-welding new full float spindles, etc. Might be easier to build a new rear full floater from scratch, just tell them (Front Range) you want it to 80 series specs but match the with of 100 series wms, so 2.5 wider per side if I remember correctly. My front axle from Front Range (Diamond) for my 100 was done that way, 80 series specs but 2.5” wider per side to match my 100 rear. Email front range again. I didn’t get a response from them the first week I emailed and emailed again the second week and I got a response. Just waiting for my front to be built.

Gotcha, thanks for the reply. I’ll keep digging into a full float conversion and see if it’s feasible but seems like a decent amount of custom work. I’m sure if there was a bolt in version I would have found it by now.

 

[saucebox]

Gotcha, thanks for the reply. I’ll keep digging into a full float conversion and see if it’s feasible but seems like a decent amount of custom work. I’m sure if there was a bolt in version I would have found it by now.

Post it up if you find a way! It's sort of perpetually on my list to figure it out also, but we've got a new kid at home and finding time has been a lot more difficult lately.

The 79 series stuff will work beautifully, running the same thing here. I stuck to 5 lug because I got a set of Hutchinson wheels and I wasn't interested at all in finding different wheels. I sourced all those parts from Partsouq.

To offer advice no one asked for, think about running a custom width front (+2.5" on each side, as already mentioned) instead of the factory 80 axle + wheel spacers. The width of the 100 frame puts the spring pockets just about right on top of the knuckle balls. If you run heavier load rate springs, they're usually a bit thicker than stock and will rub your frame. Squeak squeak, every place you go. It gets old. It sounds like you've got the expensive part (center/third) already in hand.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Every time I see the made-up verb "SASing" I think of Ron Swanson declaring, "Don't SASS me Burkiss!"

 

[RustyLinkz]

Post it up if you find a way! It's sort of perpetually on my list to figure it out also, but we've got a new kid at home and finding time has been a lot more difficult lately.

The 79 series stuff will work beautifully, running the same thing here. I stuck to 5 lug because I got a set of Hutchinson wheels and I wasn't interested at all in finding different wheels. I sourced all those parts from Partsouq.

To offer advice no one asked for, think about running a custom width front (+2.5" on each side, as already mentioned) instead of the factory 80 axle + wheel spacers. The width of the 100 frame puts the spring pockets just about right on top of the knuckle balls. If you run heavier load rate springs, they're usually a bit thicker than stock and will rub your frame. Squeak squeak, every place you go. It gets old. It sounds like you've got the expensive part (center/third) already in hand.

I appreciate it. I’ll see what’s easier to source, either a 79 hub or 105 hub. They are the same if I’m not mistaken.

I’ll run custom radius arms with Jonny’s for less binding and coil overs so I think I can package it all neatly.

If I didn’t get these axles so cheaply, I’d run a custom width. I have a set of 08 super duty axles that I’ve been staring at but I’m saving those for my ‘64 cruiser.

 

[saucebox]

I appreciate it. I’ll see what’s easier to source, either a 79 hub or 105 hub. They are the same if I’m not mistaken.

I’ll run custom radius arms with Jonny’s for less binding and coil overs so I think I can package it all neatly.

If I didn’t get these axles so cheaply, I’d run a custom width. I have a set of 08 super duty axles that I’ve been staring at but I’m saving those for my ‘64 cruiser.

Yeah, 79 and 105 hub parts are the same.

Coilovers will be a lot easier to package, yeah. Sounds like it'll be a rad build either way man, good luck

 

[excessive]

Looking forward to following this thread. A SAS'd 100 is my dream truck, good luck

 

[RustyLinkz]

Quick follow up with some more research:

I think I’ve decided on a custom front axle, and after talking to @orangefj45 at valley hybrids, I should be running a 9.5” center front with the tire size I’ll be running (36-37”)

I’ve been talking with the guys at front range Offroad about a custom diamond housing and they are asking me about caster/ pinion angle separation. I’ve narrowed it down to be between 6 and 10 degrees of separation. Maybe I should meet in the middle at 8 degrees separation? FWIW this will be a street driven car most of the time with some crawling and overland stuff but it won’t be trailed anywhere. I like to drive from CA to UT/ CO so long highway days will be in the forecast. I’d like it to drive well on the street.

Any suggestions on pinion/ castor degrees of separation? I’d like to keep this car as low as possible with a 3 link front end. Im aiming between 5-6” lift over stock height.

Thank you!

 

[RustyLinkz]

Now I'm debating between the Hellfire knuckles with hi steer or the Front Range offroad Keyed knuckles. I've seen quite a few builds using the Hellfire stuff but not much on the Front Range Keyed hi steer. Does anyone have any real world experience with the Front Range kit?

I know this is all preliminary but how does a thread get tagged with a "Build" prefix? Maybe I should actually start building something...

 

[RustyLinkz]

Yesterday was day 1 of the build. Laser leveled on jack stands.
Installed Dobinsons C59-615V springs for the rear, only got about a 1/2” lift over my OME 864 springs. I wanted a little more lift but I’m happy I’m starting as low as possible. I’m keeping rear factory brackets but using metal tech links and some TT lower link skids.
Removing all factory IFS today, torching the brackets off soon after.

 

[RustyLinkz]

This question has been on my mind recently; I’m using manual locking hubs on my front axle (diamond 9.5” with 105 series outters) so I need a part time kit for my Tcase.
Would it be bad to keep my center differential locked all the time on the road with my front hubs unlocked (to save the chromoly axles) or should I pony up to get a spool for the center diff?

 

[ajordan1975]

Now I'm debating between the Hellfire knuckles with hi steer or the Front Range offroad Keyed knuckles. I've seen quite a few builds using the Hellfire stuff but not much on the Front Range Keyed hi steer. Does anyone have any real world experience with the Front Range kit?

I know this is all preliminary but how does a thread get tagged with a "Build" prefix? Maybe I should actually start building something...

Late response, but the keyed arms from Front Range are awesome! Ran them on my old mini truck crawler. You could run them with 1 bolt and they will stay put.

 

[ajordan1975]

This question has been on my mind recently; I’m using manual locking hubs on my front axle (diamond 9.5” with 105 series outters) so I need a part time kit for my Tcase.
Would it be bad to keep my center differential locked all the time on the road with my front hubs unlocked (to save the chromoly axles) or should I pony up to get a spool for the center diff?

I would do the PT kit, and may as well do crawler gears while in there.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I would do the PT kit, and may as well do crawler gears while in there.

Little late, got the hellfire knuckles and arms. But I’ll be running a double shear set up with brackets from stellar built. Maybe next build I’ll try the FROR steer arms.

I have the 3.12:1 low range gears from marlin, need to install them still. Tcase will be taken apart in a week or so.

Do you have any real world experience with a center diff locked via electronic locker vs a spool? I’m open to any and all info regarding this situation.

 

[ajordan1975]

Little late, got the hellfire knuckles and arms. But I’ll be running a double shear set up with brackets from stellar built. Maybe next build I’ll try the FROR steer arms.

I have the 3.12:1 low range gears from marlin, need to install them still. Tcase will be taken apart in a week or so.

Do you have any real world experience with a center diff locked via electronic locker vs a spool? I’m open to any and all info regarding this situation.

Can't go wrong with the hellfire. I run them on my 80 (truck originally built by Hellfire Fabrication and it has one of the first 5 sets of hellfire knuckles)...

I'm not following your question..... You still use the CDL once the tcase is spooled if that's what you're asking.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Can't go wrong with the hellfire. I run them on my 80 (truck originally built by Hellfire Fabrication and it has one of the first 5 sets of hellfire knuckles)...

I'm not following your question..... You still use the CDL once the tcase is spooled if that's what you're asking.

Wouldn’t the CDL be obsolete once the spool is in? Because the spool takes place of the mechanical locker. So no need for a button anymore, because the spool turns the car into all time 4wd (50/50 split F/R) with selectable hubs. Correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Exiled]

Watching this thread, I too have seriously considered an SAS conversion on The 'Melon, this would be the best of all worlds!

 

[ajordan1975]

Wouldn’t the CDL be obsolete once the spool is in? Because the spool takes place of the mechanical locker. So no need for a button anymore, because the spool turns the car into all time 4wd (50/50 split F/R) with selectable hubs. Correct me if I’m wrong.

No. the CDL is still needed for 4WD.
The "locker/viscus coupler" in the tcase are like the spider gears in an open diff (the awd feature).
the spool cuts the power to the front drive shaft.
you need the CDL still to activate the 4WD.

with the CDL off you can have 2H or 2L, CDL on 4H or 4L.

 

[RustyLinkz]

No. the CDL is still needed for 4WD.
The "locker/viscus coupler" in the tcase are like the spider gears in an open diff (the awd feature).
the spool cuts the power to the front drive shaft.
you need the CDL still to activate the 4WD.

with the CDL off you can have 2H or 2L, CDL on 4H or 4L.

Makes more sense now after watching a few videos/ doing more research. Thanks for the heads up. Marlin’s spools are on back order right now. Might be a few more weeks till they get some. Luckily there’s other work to be done prior to Tcase building.