SAS SAS #9 Official Page 08/04/25- 08/08/25 (16 Viewers)

[Broski]

The scenery looks amazing on that trail. I would like bring The Milk Truck out to run it. I am just not sure when I could do that.

It's a bucket list trail for sure.
Just let me know when you want to come out and we can make it happen ! That go's for all the SAS crew. I have run the trail many times and know it well.

 

[John McVicker]

Just about ready for the drive out. The last thing I wanted to do was to do an actual test under load of my cooling system. Everything is either new or at least in good shape, but a ‘for real test’, under driving conditions is always best.

93* today, went on a 30 minute ride up a very substantial hill, hiway speed 4th gear most of the way & 3rd towards the top. Went from 4K elevation up to 7k elevation. Not floored all the time but a good portion of the time. Pulled over at the top & checked things out with my IR Gun… top of radiator, fins of radiator, top/bottom hoses, T- Stat housing, etc etc. This hill is a pretty good test & all seems good.

 

[mesa man]

The scenery looks amazing on that trail. I would like bring The Milk Truck out to run it. I am just not sure when I could do that.

It's a bucket list trail for sure.
Just let me know when you want to come out and we can make it happen ! That go's for all the SAS crew. I have run the trail many times and know it well.

The wife and I would be down to run the rubicon in “Big Betty” with Ya’ll sometime!

 

[Mike Shull]

Got the “dive into unknown T stat territory and flush the green out” all done. Was the last real baseline thing needed on this truck that has been in possession for a couple years?

I’d rather do a knuckle job than dive into an unknown thermostat job.

1 try on one, 6 tries and a fail on the other. If you know you know…

View attachment 3938827

That looks like an all day job.

 

[Broski]

The wife and I would be down to run the rubicon in “Big Betty” with Ya’ll sometime!

Let's make it happen !

 

[sogncab]

Rubicon looks brutal for those of us on 31's.

 

[Mike Shull]

Rubicon looks brutal for those of us on 31's.

You have said all along that your Cruiser is meant to be used.

 

[RevISK]

That looks like an all day job.

Started at 11a on Saturday and with letting the RTV set and multiple flushes, finished at 2p on Sunday.
The bolt BS added a good hour.

 

[CruiserTrash]

We're doing this.

(The mess in the background is my shop mate's half of the shop, don't judge me!)

I'm hoping to have the motor installed next weekend and do the cam run-in. Then I'll have 3 weeks to run the normal break-in miles and ferret out problems. Fortunately, all the peripherals in my current engine bay are going on the new motor so there should be less (hopefully none!) issues. The cooling system parts are all just under two years old and work great. The carb is recently rebuilt and has been running great for 5000+ miles. Manifolds are a decent set that's fairly flat and should seal up well. All the belt-driven stuff is good to go. All the senders work. Basically I'm replacing the air pump in the middle of the engine bay.

If anybody is in Denver next weekend with nothing to do, holler at me, I'd love some help on the first start. The new cam run-in is 2000-2500rpm for 20 minutes and I'd like some extra hands on deck to monitor the engine vitals: oil pressure gauge in the engine bay, fine tune the timing within the first two minutes and monitor rpm via the timing light, watch for leaks, finish filling the coolant when the thermostat opens (I've got the funnel), a second set of ears listening for funny noises, watching for smoke, and maybe somebody checking valve lash as its running if you're good at that sort of thing (I'm not). I'll be behind the wheel monitoring my four factory gauges and five aftermarket ones, as well as varying the rpm slightly with my right foot. Plus somebody to sanity check me as I get ready for the first fire would be nice.

 

[DrRock]

We're doing this.

View attachment 3939271
(The mess in the background is my shop mate's half of the shop, don't judge me!)

I'm hoping to have the motor installed next weekend and do the cam run-in. Then I'll have 3 weeks to run the normal break-in miles and ferret out problems. Fortunately, all the peripherals in my current engine bay are going on the new motor so there should be less (hopefully none!) issues. The cooling system parts are all just under two years old and work great. The carb is recently rebuilt and has been running great for 5000+ miles. Manifolds are a decent set that's fairly flat and should seal up well. All the belt-driven stuff is good to go. All the senders work. Basically I'm replacing the air pump in the middle of the engine bay.

If anybody is in Denver next weekend with nothing to do, holler at me, I'd love some help on the first start. The new cam run-in is 2000-2500rpm for 20 minutes and I'd like some extra hands on deck to monitor the engine vitals: oil pressure gauge in the engine bay, fine tune the timing within the first two minutes and monitor rpm via the timing light, watch for leaks, finish filling the coolant when the thermostat opens (I've got the funnel), a second set of ears listening for funny noises, watching for smoke, and maybe somebody checking valve lash as its running if you're good at that sort of thing (I'm not). I'll be behind the wheel monitoring my four factory gauges and five aftermarket ones, as well as varying the rpm slightly with my right foot. Plus somebody to sanity check me as I get ready for the first fire would be nice.

Rad! Wish I were closer so I could lend a hand. Adjusting the valves with the engine running is super easy once you have done it once or twice. I’d also recommend checking them again and re torquing the head bolts as per the fsm after the first 1000 miles.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Rad! Wish I were closer so I could lend a hand. Adjusting the valves with the engine running is super easy once you have done it once or twice. I’d also recommend checking them again and re torquing the head bolts as per the fsm after the first 1000 miles.

Yes, I'll definitely be checking valves and retorquing the head before leaving for SAS. Hoping to get at least 700 miles under my belt by then. Might even bring a torque wrench to SAS so I can do that in camp one night. The trip will definitely stack another couple hundred miles, getting me closer to 1000.

 

[cstav86]

We're doing this.

View attachment 3939271
(The mess in the background is my shop mate's half of the shop, don't judge me!)

I'm hoping to have the motor installed next weekend and do the cam run-in. Then I'll have 3 weeks to run the normal break-in miles and ferret out problems. Fortunately, all the peripherals in my current engine bay are going on the new motor so there should be less (hopefully none!) issues. The cooling system parts are all just under two years old and work great. The carb is recently rebuilt and has been running great for 5000+ miles. Manifolds are a decent set that's fairly flat and should seal up well. All the belt-driven stuff is good to go. All the senders work. Basically I'm replacing the air pump in the middle of the engine bay.

If anybody is in Denver next weekend with nothing to do, holler at me, I'd love some help on the first start. The new cam run-in is 2000-2500rpm for 20 minutes and I'd like some extra hands on deck to monitor the engine vitals: oil pressure gauge in the engine bay, fine tune the timing within the first two minutes and monitor rpm via the timing light, watch for leaks, finish filling the coolant when the thermostat opens (I've got the funnel), a second set of ears listening for funny noises, watching for smoke, and maybe somebody checking valve lash as its running if you're good at that sort of thing (I'm not). I'll be behind the wheel monitoring my four factory gauges and five aftermarket ones, as well as varying the rpm slightly with my right foot. Plus somebody to sanity check me as I get ready for the first fire would be nice.

I went through the break in process last year and landed on the sequence below for my built 2F by Jim C. I did a lot of research both on oil and cams to get to this, so hopefully it helps. Timing is impossible to set right without it running, so during that first 20 minutes we took a short break to get timing set better so it ran smoother. Having a known good carb is very helpful. What we do know is that much of the wear happens super early on in a motor, so more oil changes up front is cheap insurance for protecting the time and money you have invested. I see you have a manual port and an oil sender unit, smart. Here's to hoping this post doesnt break the SAS thread.
----
"The final break in procedure endorsed by the builder is as follows. This was my process that the engine builder approved and I fully understand it's probably not your way or the way your grandpa did it.
Used 30wt Driven GP-1 Break in oil
Manually ran the oil pump with a drill and rotated the motor untill we saw oil coming out the rockers. Verified oil pressure is registering on the gage.
Set motor to TDC and stab distributor and ensure its engaged with oil pump.
**I already did QC and checked the coil for spark. Firing a motor for the first time is nerve wracking, so the more your can check and be confident about prior to starting the better.
Prefill carb bowl so you arent cranking endlessly to get fuel to carb.
Fire it up, check oil pressure again and bumped the RPMs to ~2,000
Ran it for 20 minutes. We did pause that and idle for a minute to adjust timing to get it to run better.
Shut it down and re-torqued head bolts per FSM.
Adjust valves.
Fire it back up and drive for 30 minutes making strong pulls then let it coast back down and pull again.
Dumped oil and replaced with another round of 30 wt break in oil and let it cool down overnight.
I was told the second set of break in oil isnt necessary, but the majority of wear is going to happen early on, so for longevity I decided to do two rounds of break in oil.
Next day did a second 30 minute run and that should complete the break in process.
I will change the 30wt break in for Driven GP-1 15w-40."

 

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

SAS is and always will be IH8MUD based. Everything that is camp, truck, trail or technical is welcome here. The comrodery and family base is what we really strive to promote. All are welcome just leave the politics elsewhere.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I went through the break in process last year and landed on the sequence below for my built 2F by Jim C. I did a lot of research both on oil and cams to get to this, so hopefully it helps. Timing is impossible to set right without it running, so during that first 20 minutes we took a short break to get timing set better so it ran smoother. Having a known good carb is very helpful. What we do know is that much of the wear happens super early on in a motor, so more oil changes up front is cheap insurance for protecting the time and money you have invested. I see you have a manual port and an oil sender unit, smart. Here's to hoping this post doesnt break the SAS thread.
----
"The final break in procedure endorsed by the builder is as follows. This was my process that the engine builder approved and I fully understand it's probably not your way or the way your grandpa did it.
Used 30wt Driven GP-1 Break in oil
Manually ran the oil pump with a drill and rotated the motor untill we saw oil coming out the rockers. Verified oil pressure is registering on the gage.
Set motor to TDC and stab distributor and ensure its engaged with oil pump.
**I already did QC and checked the coil for spark. Firing a motor for the first time is nerve wracking, so the more your can check and be confident about prior to starting the better.
Prefill carb bowl so you arent cranking endlessly to get fuel to carb.
Fire it up, check oil pressure again and bumped the RPMs to ~2,000
Ran it for 20 minutes. We did pause that and idle for a minute to adjust timing to get it to run better.
Shut it down and re-torqued head bolts per FSM.
Adjust valves.
Fire it back up and drive for 30 minutes making strong pulls then let it coast back down and pull again.
Dumped oil and replaced with another round of 30 wt break in oil and let it cool down overnight.
I was told the second set of break in oil isnt necessary, but the majority of wear is going to happen early on, so for longevity I decided to do two rounds of break in oil.
Next day did a second 30 minute run and that should complete the break in process.
I will change the 30wt break in for Driven GP-1 15w-40."

Great info. I've mostly planned on doing things that way, with one exception: I'm hesitant to prime the oil pump before stabbing the dizzy so I'm not running the cam & lifters together. I feel like I really don't want those rubbing against each other unless I'm doing the run in process 2500rpm @ 20mins. I did take a bad dizzy and extract the shaft in order to have a priming tool, but I don't think I'm going to use it. There's assembly lube everywhere in this thing.

The rest are all good reminders though. It's the little things like filling the float bowl, checking the coil, and verifying the dizzy is installed correctly that could trip a person up. I'll be running Amsoil 30wt break in oil for the cam run-in, dumping it, then going to the Driven break in oil for the first 100 miles. I'll dump that and go to my usual Rotella T4 15w40 until 500 miles, and I'll change the oil again at that point.

After the cam run-in you mention going on a half hour drive doing pulls and big decels, obviously for seating the rings. I've seen that mentioned in some things I've read. The other thing I've seen - and what my machine shop told me - is drive it like a granny going to church on Sunday for 500-700 miles. no strong pulls, no big decels, no highway, no long idling, no holding one rpm for a long time. Just city driving: variable rpms, running through different speeds and gears, no gunning the throttle. Just moseying along. Haven't decided which way to go on that yet.

 

[RevISK]

Great info. I've mostly planned on doing things that way, with one exception: I'm hesitant to prime the oil pump before stabbing the dizzy so I'm not running the cam & lifters together. I feel like I really don't want those rubbing against each other unless I'm doing the run in process 2500rpm @ 20mins. I did take a bad dizzy and extract the shaft in order to have a priming tool, but I don't think I'm going to use it. There's assembly lube everywhere in this thing.

The rest are all good reminders though. It's the little things like filling the float bowl, checking the coil, and verifying the dizzy is installed correctly that could trip a person up. I'll be running Amsoil 30wt break in oil for the cam run-in, dumping it, then going to the Driven break in oil for the first 100 miles. I'll dump that and go to my usual Rotella T4 15w40 until 500 miles, and I'll change the oil again at that point.

After the cam run-in you mention going on a half hour drive doing pulls and big decels, obviously for seating the rings. I've seen that mentioned in some things I've read. The other thing I've seen - and what my machine shop told me - is drive it like a granny going to church on Sunday for 500-700 miles. no strong pulls, no big decels, no highway, no long idling, no holding one rpm for a long time. Just city driving: variable rpms, running through different speeds and gears, no gunning the throttle. Just moseying along. Haven't decided which way to go on that yet.

I’d lean grandma but I also know nothing.
Just sounds safer for several reasons.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Not to start a fight, but I usually run Rotella T4 15w40 in my 2F. Supposedly it has the right zinc/zddp content. But I've also heard they've severely decreased the zinc content in recent years. Shell's website is cagey about the exact amount so we can't go off that. What's a better daily oil for an F-family motor then? Now answer the question with a reasonably priced oil that you can grab from any auto parts store ... because I know the answer to the first question was some pricey Brad Penn or Redline stuff!

 

[RevISK]

Not to start a fight, but I usually run Rotella T4 15w40 in my 2F. Supposedly it has the right zinc/zddp content. But I've also heard they've severely decreased the zinc content in recent years. Shell's website is cagey about the exact amount so we can't go off that. What's a better daily oil for an F-family motor then? Now answer the question with a reasonably priced oil that you can grab from any auto parts store ... because I know the answer to the first question was some pricey Brad Penn or Redline stuff!

I run VR-1 20w50 in both LC’s.
Claims to still have the zinc and I just want to be done with that decision.

 

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

Also look into Castrol Classic. Have heard good things about it. Just wish it came in a round can so I could use my vintage oil spouts.

 

[DrRock]

I run VR-1 20w50 in both LC’s.
Claims to still have the zinc and I just want to be done with that decision.

Same as you, I’ve been running VR-1 20w50 in my fresh engine and so far so good with 5k on the clock.

Looks like the theme for this SAS is who has the sexiest 2F engine…

Digging the gold head @CruiserTrash

Cheers, James

 

[sogncab]

You have said all along that your Cruiser is meant to be used.

I do have to walk a fine line with that. There's used, then there is USED.
I'm not a fan of breaking stuff or body damage. Bumpers and skid plates are there for a reason though.