SAS SAS #8 Official Page 08/05/2024-08/09/2024

[TheBlackSheep]

Gosh dang, I'm getting 20 MPG AVG. WITH MY 2006 6.6 Duramax w/87k. Programed.

That's what we get with the '05 Dodge loaded or unloaded. It's the gas sipper between it and my two cruisers. Haul all kinds of stupid things with it. It routinely beats the 62 fully loaded, which is just annoying....

 

[Broski]

That's the thing, I can tow the 80 for the same price and have a nice camper to stay in and get the wife to come along She has no interest in tent Camping

 

[TheBlackSheep]

That's the thing, I can tow the 80 for the same price and have a nice camper to stay in and get the wife to come along She has no interest in tent Camping

Eh, I don't blame her. I'll do it, but I'd definitely rather sleep in the cruiser. Feels more bear (and hooman) proof and no setup/takedown.

 

[Broski]

Eh, I don't blame her. I'll do it, but I'd definitely rather sleep in the cruiser. Feels more bear (and hooman) proof and no setup/takedown.
View attachment 3662175

I do and enjoy both, spend a lot of time in the Sierras

It's not the sleeping arrangements it's the bathroom arrangements she not into
The way I have my Reg set up it not good for sleeping in the back, We run some of the hardest trail in the west so I don't like anything hanging off the back.
Everything go's inside the rig

 

[Kleatus]

I won't buy a modern diesel. My 01 was phenomenal. My 18 was pathetic with the emissions crap. Plus it's a time bomb of parts.

We should be about 23k# too.

"Just delete it" DOT screws with me too much

Plus, you can't get anything anymore with a standard transmission.

Once the 40 is done, I'm seriously considering building a pickup. I hate modern vehicles. Too much reliance on chips. Give me a key to energize a starter and a cable to cut off fuel

Yup...

I've seriously considered buying an otherwise nice super duty with a crapped out 6.4 and dropping a 12v/6 speed into it. Not terribly expensive or difficult. I recall seeing the belt routing diagrams stickers that included the Cummins 3.9/5.9 and the Ford 6.0 diesel engines on my old 2006 Powerstroke and thinking we got the short end of the stick in North America.

I don't tow enough to justify anything more than my current 5.7 Tundra though, it's plenty good for 10k. It's not quite the model of simplicity and serviceability that I'd prefer, but 10x better than any modern diesel in those respects.

More and more folks that have been traditional diesel truck users that I know have been switching to gas in recent years- farmers, hotshot runners, industrial users, etc. I know quite a few more who plan on dumping their newer diesels prior to warranty running out based on issues they've already had too..

 

[TheBlackSheep]

I do and enjoy both, spend a lot of time in the Sierras
View attachment 3662191
View attachment 3662192
It's not the sleeping arrangements it's the bathroom arrangements she on into
The way I have my Reg set up it not good for sleeping in the back, We run some of the hardest trail in the west so I don't like anything hanging off the back.
Everything go's inside the rig
View attachment 3662210

Oh, I’ll pop a squat anywhere. Lack of loo has never bothered me.

 

[Broski]

Oh, I’ll pop a squat anywhere. Lack of loo has never bothered me.

Thank god your not my Wife

 

[raisinhell2]

4 mpg towing !!!! top speed 62 mph (downhill) if you blow up the pic the sticker on the gas cap is that little Swedish girl "how dare you "

 

[sogncab]

All the fuel is expensive here but not a 30% difference

Currently in town here, $3.20 for Gasoline, $3.43 for diesel. So a 7.19% upcharge for diesel. That is the closest I've seen it in a long time.
At that delta, you have to put 117,247.49 miles on to recoup the $12,000 upcharge to go with the diesel.
If you go with a 20% difference, which is I believe to be more normal around here (but I could be wrong), that return goes out to 219,638.67 miles. And I know I've seen 30%, most of our fuel goes to Ag and when they get busy, it goes up in price horrifically. But that could be a regional issue.



I had to change two fuel filters at every oil change on my Fiat RAM RAM, and three gallons of oil + oil filter. It was $200 for me to do it. I ran good Fleetguard filters, and Delvac in both my Fiat and my Dodge. The Dodge had a aftermarket lift pump on it though, and that filter really only needed to be changed every 50k miles or so. They usually got swapped soon as they would rust and look like crap.

9.8 was my lifetime average on the last one. That average is made up with 84% of the miles, (mostly with a an enclosed trailer), on the ball and pretty much minimum 10k pounds. Max with that trailer I'm about 13,500.
My pickups get used. They rarely get driven unless there's some strange reason. I hate paying for the POS. That ford I've got now had 100 miles on it and I had to run to western colorado. I took the turdwagon 80 instead. I also didn't want to break a new engine in droning down the interstate for 36 hours.


and 2800 rpm is ripping for peak torque. That's about where it started to do something on my Fiat too. Same problem with the R2.8. Gotta ring it out before it'll fuel to get cylinder temps up for a cleaner burn.
I think my 01 was about 1750 stock. With programming, a load, and abusive throttle, it would fuel so hard down at 1200 rpm you could hear the pilot bearing getting angry. (probably because it was trying to break off the input shaft....) Clutch would shudder every so slightly too.

 

[Broski]

Currently in town here, $3.20 for Gasoline, $3.43 for diesel. So a 7.19% upcharge for diesel. That is the closest I've seen it in a long time.
At that delta, you have to put 117,247.49 miles on to recoup the $12,000 upcharge to go with the diesel.
If you go with a 20% difference, which is I believe to be more normal around here (but I could be wrong), that return goes out to 219,638.67 miles. And I know I've seen 30%, most of our fuel goes to Ag and when they get busy, it goes up in price horrifically. But that could be a regional issue.



I had to change two fuel filters at every oil change on my Fiat RAM RAM, and three gallons of oil + oil filter. It was $200 for me to do it. I ran good Fleetguard filters, and Delvac in both my Fiat and my Dodge. The Dodge had a aftermarket lift pump on it though, and that filter really only needed to be changed every 50k miles or so. They usually got swapped soon as they would rust and look like crap.

9.8 was my lifetime average on the last one. That average is made up with 84% of the miles, (mostly with a an enclosed trailer), on the ball and pretty much minimum 10k pounds. Max with that trailer I'm about 13,500.
My pickups get used. They rarely get driven unless there's some strange reason. I hate paying for the POS. That ford I've got now had 100 miles on it and I had to run to western colorado. I took the turdwagon 80 instead. I also didn't want to break a new engine in droning down the interstate for 36 hours.


and 2800 rpm is ripping for peak torque. That's about where it started to do something on my Fiat too. Same problem with the R2.8. Gotta ring it out before it'll fuel to get cylinder temps up for a cleaner burn.
I think my 01 was about 1750 stock. With programming, a load, and abusive throttle, it would fuel so hard down at 1200 rpm you could hear the pilot bearing getting angry. (probably because it was trying to break off the input shaft....) Clutch would shudder every so slightly too.

Everyone is different !
I definitely did not buy my diesel to save on fuel costs wasn’t even part of the equation.
I got it to do exactly what it does haul
My Camper and tow my trailer with ease up any grade.
I was tired of dragging ass heading up to the Sierras in the slow Lane at 40-45 MPH

I agree the early Cummings are bulletproof and build torque at lower RPM but dam the sound like a dam cement truck Pissing off neighbors and campers alike.
They also IMO stink and I hate getting stuck behind one.

Yes the newer trucks are complicated but they’re smooth Comfortable, quiet and quick.
And they don’t stink.

I had to google were peak power was on a power stroke 6.7
I normally run around 2100 RPM because my truck has 4-10 gears
Even up grades

 

[Zukrider]

I have 19 days left to work on my stuff and I'm stressing lol

You and I both!

 

[Broski]

You and I both! View attachment 3662776

Interesting Trans mount.
I don’t think I have ever seen one like that before.

I do believe DJ is a little ahead of you

 

[CruiserTrash]

You and I both! View attachment 3662776

Same

This ended up BACK at the machine shop do to some questions about the cam bearings. Finally got it back again. Time to teach myself how to build and install a motor in like 30 days.

 

[OlYellr]

Same
View attachment 3662879

This ended up BACK at the machine shop do to some questions about the cam bearings. Finally got it back again. Time to teach myself how to build and install a motor in like 30 days.

You got it! Do you have a FSM?

Double check bearing are correctly oriented for oil flow - double check torque specs. Some are different even on same parts (ie main bearings).

Put rubber tube on rod bolts when installing pistons to not dick-up the crank.

Day to 1.5 to assemble

 

[Broski]

4 mpg towing !!!! top speed 62 mph (downhill) if you blow up the pic the sticker on the gas cap is that little Swedish girl "how dare you "

View attachment 3662306

Now try throwing a camper on there

 

[Broski]

Same
View attachment 3662879

This ended up BACK at the machine shop do to some questions about the cam bearings. Finally got it back again. Time to teach myself how to build and install a motor in like 30 days.

That's Purdy

You can do it !

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

38 days till we leave. Looking forward to cooler temps

 

[CruiserTrash]

You got it! Do you have a FSM?

Double check bearing are correctly oriented for oil flow - double check torque specs. Some are different even on same parts (ie main bearings).

Put rubber tube on rod bolts when installing pistons to not dick-up the crank.

Day to 1.5 to assemble

I have a paper and digital FSM. I've been reading that and Mud threads for months now - I hope it isn't TOO much info. I have plastigauge. I have various lubes. I have break in oil. I have all the parts I could ever need, down to 90% of the nuts and bolts (brand new Toyota stuff). Quite a few of the ancillary pieces will be coming off the current motor in the 60, which I'm daily driving now - like the new oil pan I bought a while back, carb, dizzy, belt-driven stuff, etc. I've been reading a lot about which threads get oil, which go in dry, and what to put loctite on. I've got some expert consultants on standby. I also have some amount of memory of tearing this spare motor down, so hopefully I remember how to reverse the order.

What gets me is torque spec ranges. Do you go on the lighter or heavier side of the spec? For example the rod cap nuts are something like 34-53ft-lb. The range is super wide. Just close my eyes and pick a number in between?

I'll definitely be taking more than 1.5 days. I'm working on this nights and weekends, plus my anxiety level and constant need for perfection will have me second guessing everything. I'll consult manuals, Mud, and experts when I have questions and there will be a lot of them.

I'm going to take a long weekend for the swap - take some PTO on either a Friday or Monday. Electrical connections, coolant connections, vacuum connections alone will take some time. I'm trying to break everything down into system blocks so it's easier to think about. I've also done a ton of work in 60 engine bays over the past ~5 years so I know a lot of the connections like the back of my hand. I just rebuilt the transmission & t-case so I've at least stabbed a pilot bearing once. Machine shop said 500 miles minimum for break in. 1000 would be even better but not necessary. They said no hard pulls and no highway, daily driving would be perfect. Good thing I daily the 60 on city streets to work and back every day.

.....sorry I know this isn't a tech thread.

 

[Manitou Decline]

I have a paper and digital FSM. I've been reading that and Mud threads for months now - I hope it isn't TOO much info. I have plastigauge. I have various lubes. I have break in oil. I have all the parts I could ever need, down to 90% of the nuts and bolts (brand new Toyota stuff). Quite a few of the ancillary pieces will be coming off the current motor in the 60, which I'm daily driving now - like the new oil pan I bought a while back, carb, dizzy, belt-driven stuff, etc. I've been reading a lot about which threads get oil, which go in dry, and what to put loctite on. I've got some expert consultants on standby. I also have some amount of memory of tearing this spare motor down, so hopefully I remember how to reverse the order.

What gets me is torque spec ranges. Do you go on the lighter or heavier side of the spec? For example the rod cap nuts are something like 34-53ft-lb. The range is super wide. Just close my eyes and pick a number in between?

I'll definitely be taking more than 1.5 days. I'm working on this nights and weekends, plus my anxiety level and constant need for perfection will have me second guessing everything. I'll consult manuals, Mud, and experts when I have questions and there will be a lot of them.

I'm going to take a long weekend for the swap - take some PTO on either a Friday or Monday. Electrical connections, coolant connections, vacuum connections alone will take some time. I'm trying to break everything down into system blocks so it's easier to think about. I've also done a ton of work in 60 engine bays over the past ~5 years so I know a lot of the connections like the back of my hand. I just rebuilt the transmission & t-case so I've at least stabbed a pilot bearing once. Machine shop said 500 miles minimum for break in. 1000 would be even better but not necessary. They said no hard pulls and no highway, daily driving would be perfect. Good thing I daily the 60 on city streets to work and back every day.

.....sorry I know this isn't a tech thread.

So with the torque specs on the caps. Do your first sequence at the minimum 34. Then go through and do them at 40 and then one last one go up to 50. Like head bolts, you want to slowly stretch the bolt threads into their holes.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Also between each torque sequence, hand turn the crank a couple times to help with the bearings and crank meeting for the first time since everything is new. Helps the seating.