Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (7 Viewers)

[Grayscale]

The 8-inch wide Nomad 'Convoy' wheels with utility grey finish were some of the nicest looking shoes for larger tires I've seen on a 60. To keep the steering more to center, a wider wheel by 2.5-inches will allow a larger diameter tire to track straighter, and allow regular shops to do the mounting for most typical treads.

To me, tall and skinny 750-16 isn't quite right. Stock hubcaps will look small, and the diameter screams 'modified,' even though it is really common on North American 40s. A 5.5-inch wide FJCO, or Racer wheel is for something skinny like the bias-ply you mention - not squeezing the wheel into the shadow of the tire to a bicycle-like profile.

I really like the Supertraxion look. But, the bias-ply, and super swamperish tread... Well, at least for how I normally use my 40.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

There was a coupon floating around here for FJCo wheels. I will add, I lost 18-22lbs per wheel at each corner coming from the steel to the aluminum FJCO wheels which equates to less wear & tear on components.

The coupon reduced the price equivalent to getting 1 wheel for free. It was available after listening to a podcast, don't remember which and it was at the end...I think the podcast was an interview with FJCo. I don't know if it's still available.

Yes, I spoke with you a bit ago about (in the middle of a move and) a brake problem I was having. Well, the lighter wheelset exaggerated the problem which wasn't a brake problem but a set screw not allowing the hub to sit flush. Anyhow yes, it is snappier to drive, quicker to brake and accelerate (I know it's a turtle). It's no longer slinging unwanted rotating mass around. I can drive with just fingers now (especially with the help from you and the repro bushings you are providing/selling-shameless plug for you Chase (@Cruiser Cult). Shortly after I upgraded the susp. to Dobinson IMS replacing the OME's with 1500 miles on them-newish so it's a whole new beast but more importantly easier on my aging body.

If you remember where you saw the coupon please let us know. As @Roastchestnuts said both are pricey, between the starting price for the FJCo wheels and the shipping for the City Racer wheels I think the difference between the two sets was around $400. The FjCo wheels are nice because of the additional width and weight. The city racer ones are more true to the original steel wheels. It’s a good dilemma I guess

One thing I really have not thought of with the city racer vers fjco wheels was the fact that the FJco wheels will not rust. they are some sort of an alloy wheel. in my constant battle with this I think I might be wise to shoot for the fjco ones. the lighterness for me an added bonus.

The 8-inch wide Nomad 'Convoy' wheels with utility grey finish were some of the nicest looking shoes for larger tires I've seen on a 60. To keep the steering more to center, a wider wheel by 2.5-inches will allow a larger diameter tire to track straighter, and allow regular shops to do the mounting for most typical treads.

To me, tall and skinny 750-16 isn't quite right. Stock hubcaps will look small, and the diameter screams 'modified,' even though it is really common on North American 40s. A 5.5-inch wide FJCO, or Racer wheel is for something skinny like the bias-ply you mention - not squeezing the wheel into the shadow of the tire to a bicycle-like profile.

I really like the Supertraxion look. But, the bias-ply, and super swamperish tread... Well, at least for how I normally use my 40.

Hey @Greyscale hope you are doing well! I was just thinking I had not heard you chime in for a while. I Kinda like the the tall skinny look. to me it looks more stock. I have heard good things about the Nomad wheels. I acually saw sombody on mud found a more stock looking steel wheel on summit racing too.

I am rocking the kenda kevlars still and for a 1964 fj40 they look a little modern on it. I am of course being extreemly nitpicky as the tires are super nice.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Some photography for everyone. a more recent beach sunday with the family.

 

[SC-Cruiser]

Some photography for everyone. a more recent beach sunday with the family.

View attachment 3692649

Always loved your fathers Richard Scarry fire truck

 

[Roastchestnuts]

its fun to drive around. I have thought about getting one of these (non fire truck one) off and on. it would be perfect for around here.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Good luck in the t100 market. I think they are great, especially the 1997 extra cab stick shift!

However I’ve found you have to be pretty lucky. Most all of the beds are rotted out at a minimum and usually the whole truck has 300k on it, beat to snot and unmaintained. They still want $6k minimum here for junk.

We have a 2006 double cab tundra and it’s been fantastic. You seem to be able to find those fairly cheap for single cabs. The 2uz is awesome.

My first T-100 was a 95 pre owned from a friend with a healty 250+ k

 

[Roastchestnuts]

My first T-100 was a 95 pre owned from a friend with a healty 250+ k

Yeah I have been on the look out for one they are rare with lower miles. Luckly I am looking for a reg cab one and they seem to be easier to find in good enough shape with under 200k.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Some updates: I am waiting on the rear engine mount bushings from cruiser teq. I just ordered them as I thought I had some. I installed some oem lug nuts and took the hub caps off. I think I am going to leave them off. they look better to me without them. Its the small stuff that counts.

some not great news (I have a couple of things) 1. my retrosound radio got fried because of the windsheild gasket leaking so I will have to either do the gasket soon or take the windsheild to have sombody do it. and I am on the look out for another radio that will be easy to install. I have not decided if I am going to put a new retro sound back in as I was not too impressed with the quality of the radio anyway. The install was easy though.

worse news but more in my wheel house to fix: I am pretty sure the valve seals I used when I had the engine apart are garbage. I did not go oem and I think I should have. They are not leaking bad where its burning oil constant but bad enough where I see a puff smoke at start up when I first start it up in the morning and a little on decelerazation some times. compression numbers were good when I installed the engine all in the 130s.
I have noticed a small amount of oil consumption. its very little maybe 1/8th a court in a month of driving around. maybe a little more. its not a stresser but its somthing I have notced that would be great if I can remedy. I think its valve seals. I am kicking myself because I bought an aftermarket gasket kit from cruiser corps and used the seals in that kit and I should have just bought oem. Tried to save a dollar and I think its biting me in the ass.

My plan of attack I think is to buy oem valve seals and do the rope trick to install them. whats the reccomended valve seal oem for a 1978 2f? I saw Kurt has some at cruiser teq but are the sumbrero type ones better?

All this being said the valve fix can wait till winter when I have more time. but I would like to get the seals to do the job.

 

[Grayscale]

Some updates: I am waiting on the rear engine mount bushings from cruiser teq. I just ordered them as I thought I had some. I installed some oem lug nuts and took the hub caps off. I think I am going to leave them off. they look better to me without them. Its the small stuff that counts. View attachment 3693240View attachment 3693241

some not great news (I have a couple of things) 1. my retrosound radio got fried because of the windsheild gasket leaking so I will have to either do the gasket soon or take the windsheild to have sombody do it. and I am on the look out for another radio that will be easy to install. I have not decided if I am going to put a new retro sound back in as I was not too impressed with the quality of the radio anyway. The install was easy though.

worse news but more in my wheel house to fix: I am pretty sure the valve seals I used when I had the engine apart are garbage. I did not go oem and I think I should have. They are not leaking bad where its burning oil constant but bad enough where I see a puff smoke at start up when I first start it up in the morning and a little on decelerazation some times. compression numbers were good when I installed the engine all in the 130s.
I have noticed a small amount of oil consumption. its very little maybe 1/8th a court in a month of driving around. maybe a little more. its not a stresser but its somthing I have notced that would be great if I can remedy. I think its valve seals. I am kicking myself because I bought an aftermarket gasket kit from cruiser corps and used the seals in that kit and I should have just bought oem. Tried to save a dollar and I think its biting me in the ass.

My plan of attack I think is to buy oem valve seals and do the rope trick to install them. whats the reccomended valve seal oem for a 1978 2f? I saw Kurt has some at cruiser teq but are the sumbrero type ones better?

All this being said the valve fix can wait till winter when I have more time. but I would like to get the seals to do the job.

Do you have a camera-probe? Perhaps you can pull the plugs and rotate the motor to look into the cylinders, possibly the valves, maybe even scope it thru the intake. Any plugs that look fouled, and any that look clean; are they all consistent? Any additives in the oil; I'm wondering about deposits on the oil-control rings? Also, could a PCV system be feeding your motor a bit of oil? I thought that all of the new 'sombrero' (aka 'deflector' - they move with the valve) seals were aftermarket? I got my seals from SOR, they don't have the same coverage as the OEM deflector-ones that I took off, it seems to be okay. The positive-type seals (pressed on the valve guide boss on later 2F, but are supposed to also work on early motors) are available as OEM, the last time I checked.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Some updates: I am waiting on the rear engine mount bushings from cruiser teq. I just ordered them as I thought I had some. I installed some oem lug nuts and took the hub caps off. I think I am going to leave them off. they look better to me without them. Its the small stuff that counts. View attachment 3693240View attachment 3693241

some not great news (I have a couple of things) 1. my retrosound radio got fried because of the windsheild gasket leaking so I will have to either do the gasket soon or take the windsheild to have sombody do it. and I am on the look out for another radio that will be easy to install. I have not decided if I am going to put a new retro sound back in as I was not too impressed with the quality of the radio anyway. The install was easy though.

worse news but more in my wheel house to fix: I am pretty sure the valve seals I used when I had the engine apart are garbage. I did not go oem and I think I should have. They are not leaking bad where its burning oil constant but bad enough where I see a puff smoke at start up when I first start it up in the morning and a little on decelerazation some times. compression numbers were good when I installed the engine all in the 130s.
I have noticed a small amount of oil consumption. its very little maybe 1/8th a court in a month of driving around. maybe a little more. its not a stresser but its somthing I have notced that would be great if I can remedy. I think its valve seals. I am kicking myself because I bought an aftermarket gasket kit from cruiser corps and used the seals in that kit and I should have just bought oem. Tried to save a dollar and I think its biting me in the ass.

My plan of attack I think is to buy oem valve seals and do the rope trick to install them. whats the reccomended valve seal oem for a 1978 2f? I saw Kurt has some at cruiser teq but are the sumbrero type ones better?

All this being said the valve fix can wait till winter when I have more time. but I would like to get the seals to do the job.

Fwiw, we stock all of the OEM valve stem seals, I loathe the aftermarket’s non Japanese stuff. I’m not sure which ones you’re calling the sombrero but we have em all

OEM is this for a 1978

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Fwiw, we stock all of the OEM valve stem seals, I loathe the aftermarket’s non Japanese stuff. I’m not sure which ones you’re calling the sombrero but we have em all

OEM is this for a 1978

View attachment 3693631

Thanks Kurt! Ill pick some up. I think the Sombrero looking ones were for the f155 motors (figured that out after some research) I put a picture below But its not correct for my 1978 2f anyway. You see these floating around for sale though.
I am hoping not to pull the head to do this job. going to do some research on this rope trick.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Do you have a camera-probe? Perhaps you can pull the plugs and rotate the motor to look into the cylinders, possibly the valves, maybe even scope it thru the intake. Any plugs that look fouled, and any that look clean; are they all consistent? Any additives in the oil; I'm wondering about deposits on the oil-control rings? Also, could a PCV system be feeding your motor a bit of oil? I thought that all of the new 'sombrero' (aka 'deflector' - they move with the valve) seals were aftermarket? I got my seals from SOR, they don't have the same coverage as the OEM deflector-ones that I took off, it seems to be okay. The positive-type seals (pressed on the valve guide boss on later 2F, but are supposed to also work on early motors) are available as OEM, the last time I checked.

I dont think its the pcv system. Has a new oem pcv valve. Just some heavy weight oil (castrol gtx 20w50 because it has lots of zinc)
Plugs are pretty consistant but also some carbon build up probibly from it running rich when I had some vacuum issues (found out it was a ripped pcv valve boot). Honestly its pretty classic valve seal signs. I used whatever seals were in a cheep gasket kit from cruiser corps. I might pull the valve cover next weekend and inspect to see if there are any issues but I suspect those valve seals rubber just is not good.

 

[Grayscale]

A higher viscosity oil (20W50) actually creates more upper-engine wear. It lowers your oil pressure at a given temperature, and it takes longer to get from the pan at startup. My owner's manual suggest that for the early 2F, 20W-40 is for the hardest driving at the warmest climate.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks Kurt! Ill pick some up. I think the Sombrero looking ones were for the f155 motors (figured that out after some research) I put a picture below But its not correct for my 1978 2f anyway. You see these floating around for sale though.
I am hoping not to pull the head to do this job. going to do some research on this rope trick.


View attachment 3694866

Ah, copy. We stock those for the appropriate models too.

 

[Grayscale]

Ah, copy. We stock those for the appropriate models too.

I saw them listed on Cruiser Outfitters, but not CruiserTeq?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I saw them listed on Cruiser Outfitters, but not CruiserTeq?

CruiserTeq currently has just ~35% of our in-stock parts listed. It's a daily goal to add more and more parts BUT shipping 'Every order, every day' is still our mandatory SOP. If a part(s) are in-stock, we can ship it the same day so long as it comes in before 4pm our time. That effort takes away from e-com additions when things are busy

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Some updates: I did a valve adjustment and tuned and timed the engine again. (ironically I will be doing it again once I do the valve seals) I think I have finally got it tuned well. pulling 19 on the vaccum meter. changed the oil again (I did back in june and drove it around all summer). I changed my speedo cable to a shorter one because the old one was for a sbc swap so It was a little longer.

Curious are there any after market tachs recommended? I was thinking about sticking one on just to be better aware of my RPMS I saw a few poeple running autometer z series ones. (not planning on cutting into the Dash or anything dont worry. clamping to the column.

My wife and I are planning on driving the fj40 on the ferry to sign the papers on our Closing for our house. Additionally this will be the first time I have left the island with the fj40 since I brought it here! It will be fitting as it was also at our wedding. I am exited about that. It will be on the 15th! not too far from now.

 

[firemanj92]

Some updates: I did a valve adjustment and tuned and timed the engine again. (ironically I will be doing it again once I do the valve seals) I think I have finally got it tuned well. pulling 19 on the vaccum meter. changed the oil again (I did back in june and drove it around all summer). I changed my speedo cable to a shorter one because the old one was for a sbc swap so It was a little longer.

Curious are there any after market tachs recommended? I was thinking about sticking one on just to be better aware of my RPMS I saw a few poeple running autometer z series ones. (not planning on cutting into the Dash or anything dont worry. clamping to the column.

My wife and I are planning on driving the fj40 on the ferry to sign the papers on our Closing for our house. Additionally this will be the first time I have left the island with the fj40 since I brought it here! It will be fitting as it was also at our wedding. I am exited about that. It will be on the 15th! not too far from now.

I just grabbed one of these $20 inductive digital tacs. No drilling, super simple and cheap-velcro'd in place. Pretty accurate against my several hundred $$$ timing light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PP4V82X/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[clrussell]

I just grabbed one of these $10 inductive digital tacs. No drilling, super simple and cheap-velcro'd in place. Pretty accurate against my several hundred $$$ timing light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y3ZYBLW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1G9AI5TD8UTHD&psc=1

Link shows a hour meter?

 

[firemanj92]

edited