Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build)

[rfitzpatrick]

I used it on both sides. Its pretty messy! have fun with it haha. I put the FIPG on the block first then lined the gasket up and laid it down. then put FIPG on the gasket then carefully put the pan on. used a screwdriver to line up holes to put bolts in. I think I will have to torque a little more down when the cork gasket compresses more. my tip is to have a rag ready and wear gloves. I put a little extra FIPG in the arch corners because thats where they always seem to start leaking. at least thats where my 3fe had issues leaking so much so It looked like the rear main. Ohh and just get an OEM gasket. the aftermarket one that came with my gasket kit was crap did not align with the bolt holes and was the annoying 4 piece gasket.

I watched a video on YouTube of a guy who was a transmission mechanic and he suggested only putting it on the pan side because it's a pain to clean off of the block if it needs replaced again. I can't decide if I want to heed that advice or put it on both sides to ensure a good seal.

I have tubes of FIPG and used it to make a gasket on my steering box. You definitely have to be careful not to get it all over the place!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I watched a video on YouTube of a guy who was a transmission mechanic and he suggested only putting it on the pan side because it's a pain to clean off of the block if it needs replaced again. I can't decide if I want to heed that advice or put it on both sides to ensure a good seal.

I have tubes of FIPG and used it to make a gasket on my steering box. You definitely have to be careful not to get it all over the place!

Nothing worse than a leaky oil pan! but yeah what I did was probably overkill. I did use a about 3/4th of the tube on both sides so I feel like that is not too much.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Well lots of little things done today. I cleaned the intake. It was super dirty. seemed the exhaust leaks over the years caked on some nasty stuff. Going to need to plug a port on the intake. cleaned and I installed a few little things Like the water temp sensor on the head and the coolant drain on the block.

I filled up the oil pan and made sure the oil pump works by using the drill and cheep flathead screwdriver trick (It did and pumped oil out of all the rocker weep holes),

after several days of trying to free the throttle butterfly on my carb I realized one butterfly is bent and I think I can see a crack near one of the shafts so rather than mess with it anymore I purchased a aisin 2f Carb on eBay.. I payed 100$. It looks in better condition than the one I have Pictures of carb below.

both lower butterflies are working according to the seller. The carb needs a few parts that I have. If I remember correctly on the listing one of the linkages is bent, the choke butterfly is missing and the idle set screw is bent. I can also see the site glass is missing a screw. So After lots and lots of pondering, reaching out and talking to a few buddys I am going to take the seized up junk carb I have and make the two carbs one good one. Now obviously I need a rebuild Kit as well. Any recommendations on kits from places?

Top part of my carb is in good shape and cleaned up well. also choke is there.

Believe it or not this actually looks 1000x better than it did when I got it.

Ye ol drill trick. I forgot to reinstall the oil pressure sender and shot oil all over my leg haha.

 

[OlYellr]

CruiserTeq for carb kit -
I think Mark's Offroad too - but I believe there is a minimum purchase

It's all looking good!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

The listing for the carb said the carb is a 1975. Think this is the correct kit from @cruiseroutfit ? https://cruiserteq.com/carburetor-rebuild-kit-fits-1-1975-8-1976-fj40-55-carb61024/

Any other carb parts I should get (considering its not missing anything I don't have)?

 

[OlYellr]

IMO - take the secondary diaphragm off - suck on the hole and see if rod stay retracted - if so don't need a new diaphragm - if not - need one -

Also base gasket for the carb - @cruiseroutfit sells them both gasket and diaphragm.

look around minute 4:05 or so in this video to test secondary vacuum operation - Pinheads videos are great for the carb rebuild.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Purchased the rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters. I am thinking a little ahead but I know the carbs are mechanical linkage carbs usually right? I have the remnants of a mechanical linkage but nowhere near what I need. and possibly whats there could be junk. It looked like somebody welded some other parts on to make it work. Ill post a picture tomorrow or later today too.

I am going to be using the Toyota carb. What would be easiest? going to a cable accelerator or finding the mechanical linkage parts? either way I will need to figure somthing out.

any input would be appreciated.

 

[Goldbug]

My PO rigged up a wire linkage from skinny pedal to carb. It broke on Cinqo de Mayo a few years ago and left me stranded. I was missing one or two parts for the mechanical linkage and got them from toyota matt and @cruiserland. It was pretty simple and it works much better now. I vote mechanical if you're able to.

 

[wolfbak]

Purchased the rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters. I am thinking a little ahead but I know the carbs are mechanical linkage carbs usually right? I have the remnants of a mechanical linkage but nowhere near what I need. and possibly whats there could be junk. It looked like somebody welded some other parts on to make it work. Ill post a picture tomorrow or later today too.

I am going to be using the Toyota carb. What would be easiest? going to a cable accelerator or finding the mechanical linkage parts? either way I will need to figure somthing out.

any input would be appreciated.

If you plan to go the OEM linkage route, I have a set from my '76 with an Aisin carb that would clean up nicely. Here's a pic during teardown, and a pic of all the parts, plus a few new bushings from SOR in the bags. I'm in VA Beach. Let me know.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

If you plan to go the OEM linkage route, I have a set from my '76 with an Aisin carb that would clean up nicely. Here's a pic during teardown, and a pic of all the parts, plus a few new bushings from SOR in the bags. I'm in VA Beach. Let me know.
View attachment 3545056View attachment 3545057

How much would you want for this?Shoot me a PM when you can. I would much rather use this than switch to a cable. seems more reliable. Thanks for reaching out!

 

[Comet]

@Roastchestnuts don’t forget about my parts that don’t fit the 1FZ-FE swap. Just sayin’

 

[Roastchestnuts]

@Roastchestnuts don’t forget about my parts that don’t fit the 1FZ-FE swap. Just sayin’

I am going to need a few other things I am sure. Its getting close though! I should have most everything to try and test start it here soon. I might need a few small parts. Ill make a list and let you know. I also want to send a picture of the engine when I get home today. Its looking good!

 

[Comet]

Trust me, I am watching and regretting getting rid of it. Looking forward to seeing the radiator shroud getting shoehorned in.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Trust me, I am watching and regretting getting rid of it. Looking forward to seeing the radiator shroud getting shoehorned in.

I am looking forward to that too. Its been a learning experience for sure. In some ways more work than I expected and in others less. You know how it goes.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I received some parts from @Racer65 today and I could not resist installing a few right after work. I installed the thermostat and housing kit and added anti seize to the bolts in the hopes that if I had to open it up in the future It will be easier. I stabbed the new oem dizzy in. Was like Christmas morning. I still need to check that the dizzy is seated correctly and I gotta double check firing order on the wires. I am not sure where I am going to put the coil yet. but it looks good to have these parts on the 2f. also got a water pump pulley in the mail today. I just stuck it on there so I would not miss place it. also the intake and carb are not installed I just have it loosely on there since I have it clean now.

 

[Green Bean]

Engine looks amazing. Do you plan to do your test start with the engine out?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Engine looks amazing. Do you plan to do your test start with the engine out?

Thanks! I am planning on it. I don't want to do it on the engine stand and I might brace it on the floor with some 2x4s or somthing. I need to buy a header I think. The old manifold was a little far gone. it has some booger welded areas and smog block off plates with holes. also all the bolts to attach the intake have snapped. I might use the old manifold for the test start and wait to buy the header for when I know when I am going to drop the engine in the 40. I am still a few weeks out too as I know the carb will get here sometime next week and the rebuild kit will be here Thursday. I am still waiting on hardware for the starter. I might use some hardware store bolts for the starter while I wait for the stud bolt kit from vintage teq parts. Luckly I have a resurfaced flywheel already at least.

 

[Green Bean]

I have seen some really sweet setups for complete self-contained dyno-testing of engines out of the vehicle. But perhaps those are a bit different from the 2x 4's on the garage floor which sounds more up my alley.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I have seen some really sweet setups for complete self-contained dyno-testing of engines out of the vehicle. But perhaps those are a bit different from the 2x 4's on the garage floor which sounds more up my alley.

Hahaha yeah won't be dyno testing it. Thats too ambitious for me. I just want to hear it start and check everything is working. It would be cool to weld up some kind of stand for it though. or like some junk frame rails that you can make a stand out of. But for now its 2x4s its better on my wallet too.

 

[wolfbak]

H

I received some parts from @Racer65 today and I could not resist installing a few right after work. I installed the thermostat and housing kit and added anti seize to the bolts in the hopes that if I had to open it up in the future It will be easier. I stabbed the new oem dizzy in. Was like Christmas morning. I still need to check that the dizzy is seated correctly and I gotta double check firing order on the wires. I am not sure where I am going to put the coil yet. but it looks good to have these parts on the 2f. also got a water pump pulley in the mail today. I just stuck it on there so I would not miss place it. also the intake and carb are not installed I just have it loosely on there since I have it clean now.

View attachment 3545417View attachment 3545412View attachment 3545413View attachment 3545418

Just a quick note on the thermostat housing. I know the bolts can get nasty over time and the anti-seize will probably be fine, but someone on MUD recommended using carb studs instead of bolts, which I did. They are the right threads and length. Now I just have 2 nuts and washers on top to remove when I want to change out the thermostat.