Build Salt wagon My first fj40 (build)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #902
Huge... I was having the hardest time getting this little bastard out. I actually only got it out with minimal thread damage by accidentally drilling all the way through the bolt and then the drill twisted what was left of the bolt out. I don't think the bolt was actually seated all the way down. I broke two drill bits and an easy out in this water pump bolt trying to get it out. I ran a tap through all the holes and every thing is good to go now. It does not look pretty but its going to work.
Maybe they used thread locker on this or something but it was a pain.
Maybe they used thread locker on this or something but it was a pain.
Goldbug
SILVER Star
Congrats!! That’s the best feeling. Been there
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Nice going. It is truly a nice feeling when the last remanent of a broken bolt finally gives up to reveal undamaged threads. 
- Thread starter
- #905
Nice going. It is truly a nice feeling when the last remanent of a broken bolt finally gives up to reveal undamaged threads.
It was a miracle the threads were fine. I have no idea why it was so stuck in there. I know water pump bolts are notorious for this but normally the welding a nut trick works.
- Thread starter
- #906
Not a lot to do today because I am waiting on parts. I figured I would paint some parts. yesterday I spent some time cleaning degreasing and pressure washing these parts. and today I painted them. Painted the bell housing and the alternator brackets and some other brackets. At least when all this stuff goes into the salt wagon its going to be really clean!
- Thread starter
- #907
Going to start some things this weekend like the oil pan gasket and dip the carb I have to see if its worth rebuilding. My dizzy and parts won't be here till Saturday and that means really on Monday I can get them from the post office.. darn! I should get my starter from cruiserteq tomorrow though. and my spark plug Leeds and a cap to fit the petronix upgrade and a few other misc things got delivered yesterday.
I do have a question. Who has a recommendation for OEM fan. I am not running the fan clutch. I know there are a couple of different fan blade options and I am just curious to what the consists on what people recommend.
I do have a question. Who has a recommendation for OEM fan. I am not running the fan clutch. I know there are a couple of different fan blade options and I am just curious to what the consists on what people recommend.
I bought an OEM Aisin fan from RockAuto. It's surprising how many OEM parts RockAuto has for FJ40's at good prices. I also am not running a fan clutch.
AISIN | FNT017 | Radiator Fan Blade | $ 48.79 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 48.79 |
Green Bean
SILVER Star
6 blade OEM plastic fan fit nicely inside existing shroud without modification. I did use a spacer however.
- Thread starter
- #910
So I think I have a 2f radiator and shroud (purchased with engine but Ill measure and double check) I know the 8 bad fan is slightly bigger and for a 2f shroud. But I think Both would work. would you go 8 or 6 blade? I like the price of that 8 blade. Not sure if Ill need a spacer. Its a 2f engine and the water pump was bought from city racer.
Here are a couple pics, FWIW. I bought the shroud from a Mud member, but didn’t know what year it was from. It fits well.
- Thread starter
- #912
thanks for the pictures. I think I am going to just go for the 8 blade fan. I have the f 155 version of the water pump pulley for a single belt. but I think that part is the same. and I am pretty sure I have a 2f shroud too. I can't wait to get this engine swapped. The SBC thats in mine is leaking oil in about every place it can too. Looking forward to the swap to say the least.
- Thread starter
- #913
Had some time after work and I got the oil pan gasket installed. used the Toyota seal packing stuff. also I am planning on replacing the hard ware with stuff from overland metric. I have the oil filter attached barley tight because I didn't want anything to fall into there.
got a few other things done. soaked the old carb in the chem dip carb cleaner. seems this carb has been poor man rebuilt at some point as lots of silver paint has been coming off. Fun the old oem part number tag came off the carb.
My non gear reduction starter came in from @cruiseroutfit Pretty stoked on it looks to be a good quality one. Still waiting on stuff from city racer as it shipped snail mail.
got a few other things done. soaked the old carb in the chem dip carb cleaner. seems this carb has been poor man rebuilt at some point as lots of silver paint has been coming off. Fun the old oem part number tag came off the carb.
My non gear reduction starter came in from @cruiseroutfit Pretty stoked on it looks to be a good quality one. Still waiting on stuff from city racer as it shipped snail mail.
- Thread starter
- #914
Some other things to do - is the alternator bracket is just hand tight. I want to buy new hardware for mounting the alternator bracket. anybody know where to get that? also below is my starter and a 2f sticker. Ill stick it on when the engine is complete!
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OlYellr
SILVER Star
Looking great - wish I was closer to help stab it.
I'm confused - you need alternator bracket stuff? if the tensioner bracket - ToyotaMatt has some.
I'm confused - you need alternator bracket stuff? if the tensioner bracket - ToyotaMatt has some.
Did you use the FIPG on the oil pan side, block side, or both? I’m going to be doing this relatively soon also.
- Thread starter
- #917
I wish you were here for that too. Its going to be interesting haha. One man show down here. still a lot to be done though. I still need to attach the motor mounts and cut off the SBC mounts. Witch will inevitably take longer than I think it will. I am waiting to do the mounts till the engine and trans are absolutely ready so I can keep driving the fj40 in the mean time.
I should have been more clear my bad. I do actually need the tensioner bracket though. But I am actually talking about the bolts that hold the bracket on the head. I don't want to reuse the ones that are there. they seem pretty crusty and one was one of the 2 bolts I broke during disassembly. Probably a hardware store trip.
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- Thread starter
- #918
I used it on both sides. Its pretty messy! have fun with it haha. I put the FIPG on the block first then lined the gasket up and laid it down. then put FIPG on the gasket then carefully put the pan on. used a screwdriver to line up holes to put bolts in. I think I will have to torque a little more down when the cork gasket compresses more. my tip is to have a rag ready and wear gloves. I put a little extra FIPG in the arch corners because thats where they always seem to start leaking. at least thats where my 3fe had issues leaking so much so It looked like the rear main. Ohh and just get an OEM gasket. the aftermarket one that came with my gasket kit was crap did not align with the bolt holes and was the annoying 4 piece gasket.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
It looks like it is so much easier to replace the oil pan gasket on the engine stand rather than laying on your back fighting gravity.
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- #920
Its so difficult on your back. I mean actually painful on your back and a difficult job haha. On the FJ80 I remember somthing being in the way that you have to take off too. Like a drag link or somthing. I don't think I could have done this one on my back. The old arches didn't come off clean and took me hours to clean/get all the way off. I keep adding to this. one annoying thing is the engine stand is difficult to turn the engine on. I started bending the handing on it act I wish it had a reduction gear to help. I really don't want to have to turn the engine over again. I think the handle might just bend in half haha
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