Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
- Start date
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Funny thing, the Long Range Desert Group in WWII made special sand tires by shaving the tread off normal tires, so your observation that smooth tires do well in sand is valid
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- Thread starter
- #723
My latest issue now is the rear drive shaft seems to be a 1/4 inch too long now that I installed the springs. I dont think its grease in the slip yolk as it seems pretty bottomed out with a mechanical thud at the end. I could be wrong. After work today I am going to take the tires off and droop the rear suspension to see if that gives me enough room to install the drive shaft again. I will have to shorten it if that does not work and being on an island far away from a shop that does that makes that difficult to do.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
If it's not grease stopping its travel and it's actually bottoming out, drooping the suspension to install the drive shaft is a bad idea. If the ds can't compress then that'll put pressures on the pinion or tcase when the suspension moves. You could break or wear out things. Are you sure it's the correct ds? As I recall your running an sbc, the ds may not have been altered correctly in the 1st place. Is the 40s ride height changed since the new springs?
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- Thread starter
- #725
ride height has been lowered . I am thinking it is for sure possible the drive shaft is incorrect. kinda hoping not to hear that but what I was thinking in the back of my mind. very frustrating to say the least.
I've heard folks being very surprised at how much grease stops the driveshaft compression - like stops dead. Once cleaned out, they get a lot more travel. But it sounds like you know what's up. All you can really do is clean out all the grease, then measure and compare against stock length specs. Good luck and great thread!
I’d try removing the zerk fitting before compressing the ds to see if anymore grease comes out that way if you haven’t already.
- Thread starter
- #728
Thats my plan after work. will let everyone know if I have luck with that.
- Thread starter
- #729
So I ended up getting the rear driveshaft in. the slip yok has a little wiggle room and is not bottoming out now. It had about a 1/4th inch of grease in the bottom. However the drive shaft has a few dents, welded poorly from when I think the length was changed and the ujoints seem looser than I would like. I greased them up and it tightened them a little but I think rather than putting in new u jointsI am just going to get a new driveshaft that will be 100% correct. So Ill probably order one soon rather than rebuilding the old one. trying to justify a tom woods drive shaft haha.
Flange to flange seems to be aprox 27 inches. I should have taken a picture of the crap weld on the drive shaft. May have been done in a yard like I would have done it haha.
Does anyone know what the flange bolt pattern/size of bolts is on these early fj40s? I should have measured this when I was under the truck.
Other notes the FJ40 drives like a dream boat in comparison to what it was with the old springs. the 33s seem to fit under there nice. I do worry about this once the springs settle. The shocks will get replaced as well as that they are not the best and seem a little worn. not blown though.
Flange to flange seems to be aprox 27 inches. I should have taken a picture of the crap weld on the drive shaft. May have been done in a yard like I would have done it haha.
Does anyone know what the flange bolt pattern/size of bolts is on these early fj40s? I should have measured this when I was under the truck.
Other notes the FJ40 drives like a dream boat in comparison to what it was with the old springs. the 33s seem to fit under there nice. I do worry about this once the springs settle. The shocks will get replaced as well as that they are not the best and seem a little worn. not blown though.
- Thread starter
- #730
Found this. It seemed useful for the flange bolt pattern. Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_flange.html is this the same for the pinion and tranfercase sides?
Looks like 64mm x56mm with 8mm bolt holes
Looks like 64mm x56mm with 8mm bolt holes
Looks fantastic. Really considering those springs or similar now that I see them with your Kendas. Mine definitely rub the front of the rear wheel wells on stock springs when off road.
- Thread starter
- #732
It drives a million times better. There is a little pot hole in the road close to my house that I would have to slow down for and now I don't really feel it. I am going to try and find somewhere to flex it and see how I does. It looks soo much less like a model t stance like it did before.
Looks fantastic
- Thread starter
- #734
My wife pointed out that i should have done a before and after..... she is right. Ill see if I can get a similar picture to this one this weekend. The first picture was taken in December a month after I got the fj40. Notice those terrible jeep seats! Second picture was yesterday. (ill change the picture once I get it)
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Nice job on the suspension project. There is a great deal of satisfaction that comes from a completed project that results in a vast improvement in drivability and appearance.
- Thread starter
- #736
I Thinking about getting one of these fiber glass bezels that are stamped land cruiser. anybody have any experince with these? Pre-79 40 series Fiberglass “LANDCRUISER” embossed bezel. | - https://landcruiserspecialties.com/product/pre-79-40-series-fiberglass-landcruiser-embossed-bezel/
I am in the same predicament for my 71 FJ40. My 1F motor is seized when I bought it last Sept of this year. I found a fairly priced 2F that I am going to swap that came with a flywheel and pressure plate that I will be using., all other original parts will go back in: 3 speed transmission and 1F bellhousing, fork and throwout bearing. Only concern is that the throwout bearing of the 3 speed is a little bit small, but I think it should work. Wanted to use a bigger throwout bearingf from a 4 speed but it is too big for the bearing carrier/housing. Ant thoughts?
The other concern I have is that the exhaust-intake bolts/studs of the 2F is bigger than the 1F. Thinking of just enlarging the holes of the exhaust-intake manifold.
I am hoping the OP is right, but I am still pretty sure there is a reason I had to use a 3 finger clutch and bellhousing with my 1F to 2F conversion on my 1969 FJ40. If his 4 speed clutch and bell works, I'll be a little peeved, since the 3 finger clutch and bell is a PITA to install.
