Safari Turbo Destruction-Rebuild

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Good luck with this.

I have been in welding stuff for decades and I have yet to see a decent cast iron quality weld repair that wasn't an "emergency repair until the right part comes in" type of thing. These never hold long-term.

I would be concerned throwing another turbo on it in the event the manifold has micro-cracking all over in it, as that was some serious heat and vibration that transferred a lot to the manifold.

I would buy the new manifold regardless.

Doing it twice is more expensive than buy once, cry once.
 
Some updates. First, spark plugs seem ok:
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Next I ordered a bore scope to check out the pistons. What can I tell from this? I don't know. I am worried about Cyl 1. But it's at TDC and appears wet with unburned fuel so can't get a good view of what's going on.

Cyl 1
img_2071-jpg.95304


Cyl 2
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Cyl 3

img_2074-jpg.95306


Cyl 4
img_2076-jpg.95307


Cyl 5
img_2077-jpg.95308


Cyl 6
img_2079-jpg.95309
 
I need to double-check my exhaust valve photos, but I think these are right. Here I was mainly looking for signs of excessive heat and/or cracking. I don't think I see any but I am going to take a closer look at cyl 4 if I can. But ideally I put new plugs in and keep running.

Cyl 1
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Cyl 2
img_2086-jpg.95312

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Cyl 3
img_2083-jpg.95314

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Cyl 4
img_2080-jpg.95316

img_2082-jpg.95317


Cyl 5
img_2094-jpg.95318

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Cyl 6
img_2097-jpg.95320

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That’s oil on top of those 2 pistons. Either valve seals are pooched but more than likely rings. Valve seals the oil tends to get burned, worn rings usually cause this sight.
Perform a leak-down or compression test to get more info.
 
You didn't whack piston #1 with the camera did you? Looking at the spots that look like they've had the oil/carbon scraped off... looks like a foreign object may have been in there?
 
You didn't whack piston #1 with the camera did you? Looking at the spots that look like they've had the oil/carbon scraped off... looks like a foreign object may have been in there?
Man that would make me feel SO much better if that's all it is! I will try to poke #6 and see if I can add some marks to it from the camera! I was poking #1 a bit more than the others because I was trying to figure out the camera.
 
Man… Sorry to see this Matt.
It’s all fun and games until something goes kaboom - you’re going through it too...we can commiserate together :rofl::crybaby:
 
^^^ Truth.

Then all of the stages of grief.

:(

To mitigate the pain, my wife went an bought another Land Cruiser…

I’ll be back in the 80 series world again.
🕺🏽
I keep believing that just a little more money will fix this problem. We will see what ATP Turbo says when they get my turbo tomorrow. Hopefully than can find a match
 
Update: manifolds are welded, will receive them back on Saturday.

ATP Turbo got back to me:
FINDING:
Customer has *CUSTOM* turbo combo with:
1. Custom T3 Internal W/G turbine hsg. approx .82 A/R with special 5-bolt exit.
2. Custom compressor housing with special 2 bolt mount & E57 comp wheel (aka "57mm turbo")
3. Turbine wheel is close to Stage V dimensions.
4. Customer turbine housing is damaged beyond repair - no rest of turbo is not usable except for the special compressor housing

SUGGESTED SOLUTION:
DUAL BB ST5/E57 into cust. comp hsg w/new T3 .82 A/R housing
-Keep the compressor housing because it's really special <<-- that's what they actually said!
-and assemble it to the NEW TURBO with all new parts including NEW CHRA and NEW TURBINE HOUSING. We don't have a direct match for turbine hsg so it will be a 2-part deal with -T3 ford 5 bolt and internal W/G swingvalve module.

2 weeks out. It doesn't match up perfectly, but I'm hopeful that it's close enough I can tweak the exhaust and heat shield brackets to match the new. Outlet is about 1/4" further away from firewall, which is a good thing I think.
 
Getting so close. Looks good on the bench.
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So close, but not.

the new turbine housing is slightly closer to the block and slightly higher up. Well it’s too close to the block. The actuator is hitting the oil cooler, hard. The only way I can think to fix is to find a “skinny” actuator or find a different turbine housing that is spaced out further from the block. Or perhaps the turbo glide manifold from Australia sticks further out away from the block. Going to ask ATP turbo, but right now I’m pretty stuck.
 
I knew @yoda-g3 had similar issues years ago with his, but I thought his was more a problem with the cast outlet. Looks like the same issue and (almost) the same solution, including welding the manifold.
 
Bumping this old thread as I'm dealing with the cracked safari exhaust manifolds. I was lucky enough to source a turbo previously before Hal at Man a Fre sold years ago so good there. Just need a solution for the manifold that has the same exact cracks. Welding doesn't seem like a long term solution. For what it's worth it's the piggy back ecu tuner that came on these kits to make them California emission compliant that causes all of these issues. Makes them run to lean and get way too hot. Since I removed the piggy back tuner and replaced the turbo, the turbo is fine. Unfortunately the hairline cracks that the manifold had from that tuner have gotten worse with normal heating and cooling. cycles. If anyone has any insights on sourcing a manifold or getting a custom tig welded manifold I'm all ears. Thanks!
 
Bumping this old thread as I'm dealing with the cracked safari exhaust manifolds. I was lucky enough to source a turbo previously before Hal at Man a Fre sold years ago so good there. Just need a solution for the manifold that has the same exact cracks. Welding doesn't seem like a long term solution. For what it's worth it's the piggy back ecu tuner that came on these kits to make them California emission compliant that causes all of these issues. Makes them run to lean and get way too hot. Since I removed the piggy back tuner and replaced the turbo, the turbo is fine. Unfortunately the hairline cracks that the manifold had from that tuner have gotten worse with normal heating and cooling. cycles. If anyone has any insights on sourcing a manifold or getting a custom tig welded manifold I'm all ears. Thanks!
Mine that was weld repaired has cracked again. I have thought about reaching out to turboglide again but have not yet. If you reach out to them let me know; I would be in for a couple new manifolds.

I don't believe either of my 80s have ever had the Unichip installed, FWIW.
 
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Was it preheated to cherry before the weld then reheated to cherry and allowed to cool ver a day or so?

I had a shop do a turbo manifold for me years ago, good ol country boys.
They built a fire, threw the manifold in till red, welded, threw it back in the fire then put sand over the fire.
Picked it up a few days later, it never cracked after that again!
 
Mine that was weld repaired has cracked again. I have thought about reaching out to turboglide again but have not yet. If you reach out to them let me know; I would be in for a couple new manifolds.

I don't believe either of my 80s have ever had the Unichip installed, FWIW.
I have not heard back from Turbo Glide yet. Sent them another message. I just realized on their website they specifically say manifolds not sold separately. Weird...

 

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