- Thread starter
- #61
Pour salt in it. I did look under it. I looked under the hood. I, however am not as mechanically inclined as some of you.
I'll post some more photos as soon as I get it back from the shop.
Also, I'm from Nashville, TN.
Sad day with my new(ly wrecked) FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter adistler1
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Pour salt in it. I did look under it. I looked under the hood. I, however am not as mechanically inclined as some of you.
I'll post some more photos as soon as I get it back from the shop.
Also, I'm from Nashville, TN.
- Thread starter
- #62
Just got an update from the insurance company. They still can't give me an estimate because "they don't know what a 1978 FJ40 is actually worth." Besides the body damage, they said that the axle is bent and that there is suspension damage as well. I just sent them a link to SOR, JT Outfitters and All Foreign Auto Parts.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
I wouldn't turn that in. It will raise your rates and cheaper to fix on your own.
I'm not far from you in KY. There are all kinds of parts if you look in right place.
I'm not far from you in KY. There are all kinds of parts if you look in right place.
- Thread starter
- #65
skully3
SILVER Star
If its a DD its worth less...lol make sure you tell them its a classic show car. see below.
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".
Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.
- Thread starter
- #67
Thanks for the tip. I would imagine as an insurance adjuster he would have things like this on hand. I also sent him a ton of links of 77-78 FJ40s for sale that were around the price I spent.
repair
40s are pretty easy to work on, I understand about tools and money and time but contact a local cruiser club and have someone take a look at the damage and I bet you would find a helping hand and some tools as well
I did the rear end out, cleaned and painted and back in over a weekend
A used rear should not be all that expensive unbolt it leaf springs and all and swap it over and the rest pound out and bend back into shape until driveable
that is if your insurance doesnt pay off
or use the insurance for mods!
When I was a kid our vo-tech school did body work and paint for free, just paid for materials---you can get whole new rear pieces that can be welded in or use traditional bodywork methods---the schools are good if time is not an issue
BTW to the 40 that is a mere flesh wound! Glad no-one was hurt
40s are pretty easy to work on, I understand about tools and money and time but contact a local cruiser club and have someone take a look at the damage and I bet you would find a helping hand and some tools as well
I did the rear end out, cleaned and painted and back in over a weekend
A used rear should not be all that expensive unbolt it leaf springs and all and swap it over and the rest pound out and bend back into shape until driveable
that is if your insurance doesnt pay off
or use the insurance for mods!
When I was a kid our vo-tech school did body work and paint for free, just paid for materials---you can get whole new rear pieces that can be welded in or use traditional bodywork methods---the schools are good if time is not an issue
BTW to the 40 that is a mere flesh wound! Glad no-one was hurt
If repairs total 3k, which they will with a professional estimate, they will probably total your truck. You can take the check and buy the truck back from them. This will possibly give you a refurbished title depending on the state. You will jeep the truck and get the money. You will have to ahow proof thag all repairs have been done.( I.e receipts and pictures ) before they will insure it again. Consult with your adjuster and a truste agent. Also communicate your goal with him,
I.e "I will take care of the springs an axle myself. I am concerned with the body repairs only"
This is a no fault accident and should not raise your rates.
I would seriously consider consulting with your states laws and RETURN this truck to the previous owner. It does not sound like you have the room and time to maintain and repair this truck in its current condition.
I.e "I will take care of the springs an axle myself. I am concerned with the body repairs only"
This is a no fault accident and should not raise your rates.
I would seriously consider consulting with your states laws and RETURN this truck to the previous owner. It does not sound like you have the room and time to maintain and repair this truck in its current condition.
The axle is bent ?
Id get a second opinion on that one
Alan
Me too. Could be an adjuster covering his ass. Is it obviously bent? And what is bent, the axle shaft or the housing? You measure runout of axle shaft with a dial indicator to check for a bent axle shaft, you check wheel alignment to diag a bent housing. If neither of these were done and you don't see any bendage, then it simply isn't known if there really is any axle damage at all, aside from the lug nut studs.
35snmud
SILVER Star
I just rolled mine twice doing 55 mph. Insurance did not total. Cut me a check for 9K to repair. I probably have 14K into fixing it but I'm doing a little extra. I guess it boils down to who you have your insurance through and what type of coverage. They were trying to figure out what mine was worth. I helped them by pulling ads for similar vehicles off of the internet priced anywhere from 30K to 60K. They had no problem cutting me a check for repairs.
Good luck
- Thread starter
- #73
Thanks for the encouraging words. The insurance adjuster wasn't the one who told me the axle was bent. It was the shop manager. This is a high-volume, trusted shop here in Nashville. They just don't get many older cars. He also said the brake housing was damaged as well as the suspension. It was more a matter of finding parts which was the hold-up. I found the parts he said were a problem and sent him links. He said he'll look at it and know more today.
ah, so you defrauded your insurance company...
I would not use that as a "rule of thumb"
Since the OP only had the vehicle for a matter of days and probably did not have an agreed upon value or anything of the sort, He is going to have to work very closely with the adjuster on this.
NADA on your truck is 19K max. The value on the older ones is a bit higher (like your 73). I worked in a huge insurance agency. I personally have my truck insured for 5k while it is in a basketcase state.
35snmud
SILVER Star
FJsnoozer said:ah, so you defrauded your insurance company...
I would not use that as a "rule of thumb"
Since the OP only had the vehicle for a matter of days and probably did not have an agreed upon value or anything of the sort, He is going to have to work very closely with the adjuster on this.
NADA on your truck is 19K max. The value on the older ones is a bit higher (like your 73). I worked in a huge insurance agency. I personally have my truck insured for 5k while it is in a basketcase state.
It may have helped that both the appraised and claim handler were 4x4 guys. It also helped when I provided a complete list of everything on the rig. Being a cherry 64 helped as well.
It could just come down to the wrong wheel nuts with non matching countersink angles in the spacers. looks like three nuts wound themselves off then the three studs sheared off..
Its happened to one of our club members using his sleel rim nuts on alloy rims... Net result, a lost wheel just like yours.
You dont supply a photo of your truck showing what these spacers were trying to achieve. I notice there are flares fitted so your wheels must have extended past these with those spacers unless the offset on your rims was totally wrong..
Gaz..
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Damaged the suspension ? What could possibly be damaged
brian
SILVER Star
if the backing plate crumpled enough, the u bolts could have seen some road action. probably not enough to cause any real damage to them, but enough to add new ones on to the bill.
- Thread starter
- #80
So, I'm debating on what I should do with the cruiser. I'm currently running BFG MT 265x75rx16's with those godawful aluminum wheels and 3" long spacers that more or less caused this problem to start with. I have two options.
1) simply try and find some steel wheels with the proper backspacing that works safely with those tires and does away with the dangerously long spacers so I can get back to driving it and enjoying it... Any suggestions? It's stock suspension. No lifts.
2) Just park it for the time being and try and get some other things fixed on it while waiting for the BFG 33x9.5x15's to go back into production and put those on some stock steelies... Things that need to be done: fix the wiring so that I have a rear brake light and right turn signal. Fix the bad brake booster, master and slave cylinder as well as the clutch master and slave cylinder. I've bought the parts, I just need to get them on.. I need to fix the gauge cluster. There is currently no thermostat on the truck and the temp needle is gone. The oil gauge doesn't work either. These two things drive me crazy. I have pre-76 doors on it and they're not fitting right. The entire back bumper that the guy welded on. I've thought about hacking away at that and getting back to the stock bumper with the bumperettes. The tire carrier is screwed up and won't stay locked, so any time I hit a bump the handle pops down and unlocks it. In it's current state with the welded on bumper though, I can't even swing the tire carrier out or open the back door. It's the worst. I wouldn't mind doing power steering and AC either.
Thoughts and suggestions?
1) simply try and find some steel wheels with the proper backspacing that works safely with those tires and does away with the dangerously long spacers so I can get back to driving it and enjoying it... Any suggestions? It's stock suspension. No lifts.
2) Just park it for the time being and try and get some other things fixed on it while waiting for the BFG 33x9.5x15's to go back into production and put those on some stock steelies... Things that need to be done: fix the wiring so that I have a rear brake light and right turn signal. Fix the bad brake booster, master and slave cylinder as well as the clutch master and slave cylinder. I've bought the parts, I just need to get them on.. I need to fix the gauge cluster. There is currently no thermostat on the truck and the temp needle is gone. The oil gauge doesn't work either. These two things drive me crazy. I have pre-76 doors on it and they're not fitting right. The entire back bumper that the guy welded on. I've thought about hacking away at that and getting back to the stock bumper with the bumperettes. The tire carrier is screwed up and won't stay locked, so any time I hit a bump the handle pops down and unlocks it. In it's current state with the welded on bumper though, I can't even swing the tire carrier out or open the back door. It's the worst. I wouldn't mind doing power steering and AC either.
Thoughts and suggestions?
