Builds Ryan’s 40 AKA "Bandit" (1 Viewer)

[diesellibrarian]

I have a '72 as well and ended up finding a used tank from a slightly later FJ40. The basic shape is the same, but some of the plumbing is different, namely in the evap system I believe. If you can't find a good used tank locally, the later tanks are still available new from Toyota, thought they're not cheap.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

I have a '72 as well and ended up finding a used tank from a slightly later FJ40. The basic shape is the same, but some of the plumbing is different, namely in the evap system I believe. If you can't find a good used tank locally, the later tanks are still available new from Toyota, thought they're not cheap.

I ended up finding a used gas tank from an earlier 40 that doesn't have the evap plumbing either. I've been told to grab a new gas tank from Toyota but it appears they don't have the plumbing for the evap stuff either. CCOT's website says that the evap and charcoal canister has to be removed to use it. I'm not finding much information on how to delete that stuff properly. Unless I find a used tank with these ports, it appears that whether I use this one from an older 40 or a new OEM one, I'll have to do this either way.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for deleting the evap and charcoal canister? Or, if anyone knows of a used tank from a 72 please let me know.

Old gas tank I just purchased:

 

[peesalot]

FYI, save that fitting on the pick up, they were at one time hard to find.
The tanks with the evap lines are available unless I am just too old and dont know.

 

[diesellibrarian]

I almost wonder if your '72 is a California model or something? I remember from my time in the aircooled VW world that California got all kind of emissions control equipment that didn't appear in other markets. Maybe it's the same thing for Land Cruisers? Not sure. I do know that my '72 did not have any evap plumbing at all, so ironically I need to do the opposite to what you're doing: figure out how to plumb in the evap lines and charcoal canister.

Anyway, I assume you could just disconnect any hoses associated with the evap system and leave it at that, but then I think you might need a gas cap that vents to atmosphere?

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

 

[diesellibrarian]

This diagram allegedly from a 1972 F Engine repair manual, doesn't show any evap system at all:

 

[rfitzpatrick]

This diagram allegedly from a 1972 F Engine repair manual, doesn't show any evap system at all:

View attachment 3558144

Thanks for the info. From what I can tell, there was a different tank from 68-9/72 and from 9/72 to some later years. Maybe this diagram is for the 9/72 and later? The weird thing is that all of the pictures I've found for OEM tanks for 68-9/72 don't have the same lines as mine does. For example, the OEM one listed on Cool Cruiser of Texas states that it's an OEM tank for my year but says specifically that you need to remove the evaporation stuff and charcoal canister to use it.

 

[pb4ugo]

Do you have a pic of the tank you removed?

 

[rfitzpatrick]

Do you have a pic of the tank you removed?

Here's the tank I removed

The ports at the top run through the evap system behind the middle bench seat:

Then there's the breather hose and another line that goes through the bottom of the cab, along the frame and up to the charcoal canister by the battery:

Then it goes out of the charcoal canister, along the firewall, and then into the evap device. Looks like not all of the hoses are hooked up.

 

[diesellibrarian]

My truck is a 12/71 build so it should be in that 69-72 pocket. I'm going to have to take a closer look at what's going on with my set up.

Unrelated: I hope you're planning to take care of those house wiring connectors on the heater ballast resistor!

(and the Fram oil filter!)

 

[rfitzpatrick]

I dropped off my tank at the radiator shop. I’m hoping they can find a fix the leak. While I’m waiting on that, I grabbed a couple slices of bread and got the pilot bearing out. I also got the emergency brake removed and soaking. I’m planning on mounting the bell housing tomorrow and getting the oil pan removed.

I also got the old oil galley plug out and replaced with a new supposedly oem one I found on eBay.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

How on earth do you remove the parking brake cable from the backing plate? The little ring/collar against the opening in the backing plate rotates freely, but it’s not a c-clip or resting clip that I can tell.

 

[Green Bean]

That little "C-clip" or "horseshoe" clip is really small. You need to compress the spring to get access. to put a small pair of needle nose in between. Having three hands is helpful. It ranks as one of the worst jobs!

 

[Green Bean]

I think the 40 Channel has a YouTube video.

 

[firemanj92]

Like @Green Bean stated, just split the little ring (it's resting on the backing plate around the cable housing)-I used a little jewelers screwdriver split the gap and push it out

 

[rfitzpatrick]

Finally wrestled the bell housing and motors mounts back into place today. I’m spending the rest of the day removing the oil pan, thermostat, hoses, etc. in prep for my next wave of projects.

 

[greenEFSI]

@rfitzpatrick I'm studying your pics to make a game plan for my 40, and I ran across a thread that says most leaks are from the cam plug. This makes sense since yours shows saturation coming from up higher than the rear main seal as well. Did you change this piece?

 

[rfitzpatrick]

@rfitzpatrick I'm studying your pics to make a game plan for my 40, and I ran across a thread that says most leaks are from the cam plug. This makes sense since yours shows saturation coming from up higher than the rear main seal as well. Did you change this piece?

View attachment 3562337

I didn't change that out. I cleaned it up really well before putting the bell housing on. My plan is to run the engine before I put on the clutch to see if either of those other plugs need to be changed. I've read that the oil galley plugs tend to leak, so I only changed out the smaller one.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

I removed all the old hoses and the thermostat this week. Unfortunately, one of the thermostat housing bolts broke. I've soaked the old bolt in some penetrant but so far I'm not able to get the bolt to budge. I'm going to try some heat this afternoon. Any other suggestions?

Edit: Well, that was easy. I hit it with a torch for about 30 seconds and I was able to remove the bolt pretty easily.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

Any tips or tricks to removing the oil pan? I have all the bolts out but I can’t get it to budge. It’s really stuck on there!

 

[peesalot]

I have never seen the evap in the seat, so your tank has 2 ports in the center of truck, most all of the tanks I see have the three lines in the other corner by the filler which is most common, the older tanks just have 1 vent by the filler like th egrey one in your pic. You could move the evap stuff to the more common location and get that tank or delete the evap and use the tank you first pictured.

FWIW I have seen lots & lots & lots of 40's & other LC's, thats the 1st instance of a seat mounted evap & assoc. tank that I can remember in 25 years. Point is IMO that tank is a rare piece , is it dead ?

Something tells me this is an Onur or Kurt ? as to wether this odd ball tank is available & what year/app it was spec'd for.