Build Ryan’s 40 AKA "Bandit"

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OlYellr said:
👆 what he said.


You going to cut the wraps? I did in Dec 2024 - got a whole lot quieter too - actually it was a different vehicle after they were cut off. I added a leaf to the rear yesterday - I know, good $$ after bad. I am hoping this kicks the can far enough down the road that I can use them for a while and address other issues I think are more pressing.

Have 4plus flipkit - and those Ubolts, you can torque to spec. Dob pins and shackles, total waste.
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I haven't decided to heat or cut yet.
 
firemanj92 said:
I haven't decided to heat or cut yet.
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I scored mine with a cutoff wheel, bent the wraps into submission then welded the seam. Was able to leave the bastards on the rig to do it. To cut and remove the wraps you’ll need to drop the wrap end to get the offenders off/out.
 
I heard back from Dobinson this week about my shackle pins. This was their response:

Sorry about that. That is very weird as this part number has been around for quite some time and we haven't had any fitment issues. If you can use a digital caliper and measure the distance of ours compared to oem?

If you want to make it fit, I would assume some grinding/drilling would do it.
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It’s definitely an alignment issue on my 40 because if I put the plate end of the shackle pin up to it, the holes align perfectly, but once I put the pin through the mount, they don’t align at all.

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That first picture sure looks like it is out of alignment.

I had a similar issue with the same pin I got from cruiser outfit, just a fluke. They sent me a new one that fit lickity split. Makes me wonder if it was a Dobinsons?

Several of us know their springs sure suck.

Hard to tell, but both bolts wouldn’t engage.

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RevISK said:
That first picture sure looks like it is out of alignment.

I had a similar issue with the same pin I got from cruiser outfit, just a fluke. They sent me a new one that fit lickity split. Makes me wonder if it was a Dobinsons?

Several of us know their springs sure suck.

Hard to tell, but both bolts wouldn’t engage.

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That looks like a lot better fit than what I’m seeing. I’m almost tempted to order some OME pins and try them instead.
 
rfitzpatrick said:
I’m almost tempted to order some OME pins and try them instead.
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I had ZERO issues with the OME pins/springs when I had them in for 1500 miles, both fit and refitting them in vs the Dobi's. (I was looking for a softer ride hence the change after so few miles).
 
Well, it's been quite a while but that doesn't mean I went anywhere! I lost a lot of motivation after having a hip replacement and just plain not wanting to crawl under the 40. I finally got some renewed motivation to get this thing back on the road, so I've been working steadily on it over the last month or so.

Checklist Items Completed Recently are:
  1. Reinstalled the transmission and transfer case
  2. Filled Trans and T-case with gear oil
  3. Reinstalled gear shifter (that was a PITA)
  4. Began replacing door rubbers
  5. Fuel lines plumbed
  6. Gas tank installed
  7. Trans tunnel installed
  8. New mirrors
  9. New headlights and taillights
  10. New clutch slave cylinder and hose
A couple things I'm having trouble with are:
  1. The clutch has way too much play in the pedal and I hear rubbing when pushing in the clutch. Seems odd because I didn't adjust anything on the pedal, master, or slave when I replaced the clutch and it was working quite well before replacement. I'll look over the FSM and start making necessary adjustments
  2. The connections for the reverse light - where do those connect? I'm tracing wires, but can't seem to remember where they connect to
 
I was so optimistic, but it turned out to be a bad week for the 40. I got it running, but the clutch sounded horrible! It was a brand new kit, so i was really confused. After a lot of research I found that maybe I installed the disc backwards. I removed the transmission again only to find the disc was installed correctly. After a cooling off period I started to reinstall everything and thats when I stumbled upon my actual issue: a seized throwout bearing. I have no idea what happened but this thing doesn't spin - not even with force - and you can tell it’s been beat up by the fingers on the pressure plate. Luckily I didn’t use the clutch other than the initial startup and everything else looks great.

Ive inspected the throwout bearing thoroughly and I don't know what went wrong. It looks seated evenly to me, but sometimes my eye tells me it was pressed on the hub slightly off. Any ideas?

I’d also love to find a Koyo replacement locally to save time and shipping costs but I’ve had difficulty locating a part number. So, back to Cruiser Outfitters I went.

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rfitzpatrick said:
I was so optimistic, but it turned out to be a bad week for the 40. I got it running, but the clutch sounded horrible! It was a brand new kit, so i was really confused. After a lot of research I found that maybe I installed the disc backwards. I removed the transmission again only to find the disc was installed correctly. After a cooling off period I started to reinstall everything and thats when I stumbled upon my actual issue: a seized throwout bearing. I have no idea what happened but this thing doesn't spin - not even with force - and you can tell it’s been beat up by the fingers on the pressure plate. Luckily I didn’t use the clutch other than the initial startup and everything else looks great.

Ive inspected the throwout bearing thoroughly and I don't know what went wrong. It looks seated evenly to me, but sometimes my eye tells me it was pressed on the hub slightly off. Any ideas?

I’d also love to find a Koyo replacement locally to save time and shipping costs but I’ve had difficulty locating a part number. So, back to Cruiser Outfitters I went.

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It looks like TO was installed backwards. The hard plate goes towards the fingers not the hub.

edited to add:
Mr T might have them in stock, check your local dealer too.
Toyota # 90363-45015, 90363-45079
 
Last edited:
Also get a OEM bearing. The aftermarket ones suck
 
Some folks are clutch riders, always have their foot lightly on the clutch pedal. Second is not shifting to neutral at the long stop lights.
 
firemanj92 said:
It looks like TO was installed backwards. The hard plate goes towards the fingers not the hub.

edited to add:
Mr T might have them in stock, check your local dealer too.
Toyota # 90363-45015, 90363-45079
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Wow - thanks for the info! I just ordered one from my local Mr. T and I'll definitely be sure to install it correctly this time.
 
rfitzpatrick said:
Wow - thanks for the info! I just ordered one from my local Mr. T and I'll definitely be sure to install it correctly this time.
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I did the same thing, there are no clear pics/vid or instructions for the early's/3-spd and I forgot which way I took it off. It failed within a few hundo miles. Just love doing things twice and sometimes 3 times to get it right-lol
 
After further inspection, I found that the fingers on the clutch were chewed up, so I ordered a new one from Cruiser Outfitters. While I'm waiting on that, I thought I'd check the hub. A while back, I posted that I had lost the original hub. I ended up ordering one from a user on here and installed the throwout bearing that came in my clutch kit. Well, I ended up finding my original hub a couple weeks ago and I decided to compare them a the other day. To my surprise, my original hub is actually a little smaller than the one I was using. The one I bought was supposed to be for my 3 speed, but it appears I received the wrong hub. I'm assuming this likely had something to do with the bearing seizing up no matter if it was on backwards or not.

I'm glad I found my original. Now that I have a fresh OEM bearing, I'll be using the original hub when reassembling the clutch. The new pressure plate should be here tomorrow so I'm crossing my fingers that the transmission goes back in easily and I can go for a drive in a few days!
 
Good news - clutch is back in and so is the transmission. While I'm putting everything back together (AGAIN!), I'm double checking to make sure i have everything correct, such as routing the parking brake and speedometer cables. I have a couple of retainer clips, but I have no idea where they came from. I want to make sure I route them correctly so they stay away from the exhaust pipe.

Also, before I put the transmission tunnel cover back on - what's goes here?
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