Rust removal products~ what's your favorite/

[FJBEAR]

I am about to embark on one build up of a well preserved 71 Fj. But I am also taking delivery on a second 1978 FJ 40 tomorrow night.

The '71 has sat in a dry garage for the past 12 years, and was treated with a metal sealant by the P.O.

The '78 was driven on the road up until about 3 years ago. But both of these vehicles have grown up here in the Midwest, which means some harsh winters and road salt.

the '78 has some superficial body rust (okay the front fenders are almost gone) but overall the truck is in good shape but while the frame is solid, it has some rust flaking going on.

So which products are everone's favorites? I found "Rust bullet" through the sponsors page and I have to admit it looks enticing.

But before hand I have contemplated POR15, or even some products that Eastwood carries.

I have basically just confused myself with all the research so I need some advice, which do y'all prefer and why? I have some mechanical experience, enough to do these builds, but I know I don't have the knowledge most of you do in restoring these little yotas. Thanks in advance.

 

[watrob]

Hi, I sandblastered the chassis and then had it hot dipped in gal, waited a few weeks then did a light scrub and itched primed it and gave it 2 coats of black chassis paint.It depends on whether you want to throw a couple hundred dollars on it to get it sandblastered and another couple hunderd to get it hot dipped or just spend many hours steel brush gridding off the rust and then making sure you prime it properly so the rust does not come back. Unless you sandblast, it is hard to get at the rust in the inner channel of the chassis.If you go to all the trouble of stripping down your FJ40 for a restore you may as well do it properly, I mean you don't do restore's every year on your FJ, more like every 10-15 years and if it's got 25 years of rust on it now and you don't get it all off you will be doing it again in another 2 years.If my paint comes off the chassis at least its gal underneath and a brush with a little black paint on it will fix that quick smart. If you don't want to gal and just prime and paint then that's fine but I would get it sandblasted, like you said it's had a lot of harsh winters & salt.

 

[watrob]

Sorry forgot to mention that the paints I used were expoxy based enamels, most paint manufactures make them I just went with a well known brand in the medium to high price range. If you speak to some local panel shops and ask them what are the better products they use is a good guide as they are local to you and know the weather conditions of your area.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

For the '78, if you are serious about restoring it you will need to remove the body tub from the frame, and have both sandblasted down to bare metal before trying to neutralize the rust.

Typically I remove all the obvious rust, neutralize the corrosion with "Naval Jelly" and then top coat the part with an anti-rust paint.

Good luck with the project!

Regards,

Alan

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

Rust will come through even Rust-Oleum if you don't eliminate all of it first. Sandblasting is the way to go. Permatex makes a great Anti-Rust that you brush on, and it neutralizes the rust into a nitrate, and forms a protective coating. Works amazing. Then, you paint on over it. For finish painting sandblasting and then epoxy based and/or self-etching primers are perfect. Anything beyond that is your call, I just used automotive paint for finishing.

Brian

 

[FJBEAR]

Hi, I sandblastered the chassis and then had it hot dipped in gal, waited a few weeks then did a light scrub and itched primed it and gave it 2 coats of black chassis paint.It depends on whether you want to throw a couple hundred dollars on it to get it sandblastered and another couple hunderd to get it hot dipped or just spend many hours steel brush gridding off the rust and then making sure you prime it properly so the rust does not come back. Unless you sandblast, it is hard to get at the rust in the inner channel of the chassis.If you go to all the trouble of stripping down your FJ40 for a restore you may as well do it properly, I mean you don't do restore's every year on your FJ, more like every 10-15 years and if it's got 25 years of rust on it now and you don't get it all off you will be doing it again in another 2 years.If my paint comes off the chassis at least its gal underneath and a brush with a little black paint on it will fix that quick smart. If you don't want to gal and just prime and paint then that's fine but I would get it sandblasted, like you said it's had a lot of harsh winters & salt.

I want to eventrually get the tub off the frame and do a complete restore on the 78, but at the current time, I don't have the time to do that.

This one is pigeon holed for my oldest which is should be taking her driving test in the next few weeks. So I need to get it on the road quickly, then later when she goes off to school or into the reserves, I'll do a frame off and throughly do the frame.

I guess I should have been more clear on that fact. I just need something I can "swab" on that will do a good job on the visiable stuff.

Like I said the frame is solid, I am just mainly trying to keep it that way and buy some time.

But I like the idea of the galvanized dipping, I didn't think about that.

Hi All:

For the '78, if you are serious about restoring it you will need to remove the body tub from the frame, and have both sandblasted down to bare metal before trying to neutralize the rust.

Typically I remove all the obvious rust, neutralize the corrosion with "Naval Jelly" and then top coat the part with an anti-rust paint.

Good luck with the project!

Regards,

Alan

I always thought "naval jelly" was a myth. Everytime in the past I have looked for it, I could not find it. Where/what type of business carries it? I have searched auto supplies and home improvement places in the past without finding it.

 

[DSRTRDR]

I have used Rust-Bullet and like it

I don't have personal experience with POR15, but my husband says Rust Bullet is easier to work with

 

[FJBEAR]

One thing I was looking at on the rust bullet site which seems nicer than the other brands. Is the idea that they only have one "chemical" to apply. Where as with the POR15 you need to apply three different chemicals. same thing with the stuff Eastwood sells. So economically speaking the rust bullet would be cheaper.

Thanks for your post! this is the type of stuff I wanted to hear.

 

[Trollhole]

I have used Rust-Bullet and like it

I don't have personal experience with POR15, but my husband says Rust Bullet is easier to work with

X2. It's what I use. Yet to have any issue with slathering or spraying it over rust. That crap is tough stuff.

 

[FJBEAR]

yup! rust-oleum is okay for minor stuff like bumpers and stuff, but I would not trust a frame to a "rattle can" or at least not one that was not so "industral".

I thought about some of the other stuff I have seen around. There is a spray type rust catalyst that sounds similar to the Permatex you mentioned. I was trying to weigh between that stuff and/or the Rust Bullet type stuff.

Like you said if you don't get all the rust really well, it will come back. But at this point I am just trying to slow it down until I can do the frame off project a little bit further down the road. But do you think I could use the Rust bullet to eliminate most of the rust, and then the Permatex ontop of that to safe guard the frame for a little while?

Another concern of mine is where am I going to remove the current rust at? I mean I know that if you use a wire brush first and then treat the metal. The wire brush removal makes the rust "air borne" thus can cantiminate other metal in the surrounding area. Which in my case could be very bad. in my garage I have a perfect (no rust) project BMW and just outside the garage sits the other 40 (which has no rust) and my Tacoma that has no major rust on it. I would hate to "spread" the desease to any of my other vehicles. I guess I am going to have to "bag" the 78 before tackling the rust!

(sorry didn't mean to start rambling)

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

Rust is not contagious. All it is, is iron oxide. The iron in the steel reacts with oxygen to form Fe2O3, iron oxide, and this only occurs when there is water. Moisture in the air can do it, as can saltwater via plow trucks. Removing the rust via wire brush gets it airborne, but it is the same as dirt dust and such, just a different color. That's all. You needn't worry about airborne Fe2O3 particles, worry about the @#(&%$ rusted bolts that break off and refuse to come out!

 

[FJBEAR]

I guess I have been thinking wrong about the Rust then. I am originally from Texas where the only time I had to worry about rust was if a bucket of bolts got left outside and started acting like a rain barrel. But now I live in the midwest where I have actually seen bare metal completely coat over with Fe203 over night. It just got me a bit spooked right now. Especially knowning there is already a rust "issue" present.

AS for worrying abot the rusted bolts…I am already stocking up on my set of tap and dies! I figured I would be using a lot of the hot wrench as well as the "spinning" wheel wrench to get some of the bolts out.

I guess I should have posted an image of what has me so scared on this project

Here is the only image I have of the trouble. I am actually taking delivery on this "little guy" tonight.

After I get her in my possesion, I'll take some more photos.

 

[FJBEAR]

I have used Rust-Bullet and like it

I don't have personal experience with POR15, but my husband says Rust Bullet is easier to work with

X2. It's what I use. Yet to have any issue with slathering or spraying it over rust. That crap is tough stuff.

I noticed on the Rust Bullet site yesterday that they have two "formulas", a standard and an automotive.

Would either of you recommend one over the other?

 

[Trollhole]

I guess I have been thinking wrong about the Rust then. I am originally from Texas where the only time I had to worry about rust was if a bucket of bolts got left outside and started acting like a rain barrel. But now I live in the midwest where I have actually seen bare metal completely coat over with Fe203 over night. It just got me a bit spooked right now. Especially knowning there is already a rust "issue" present.

AS for worrying abot the rusted bolts…I am already stocking up on my set of tap and dies! I figured I would be using a lot of the hot wrench as well as the "spinning" wheel wrench to get some of the bolts out.

I guess I should have posted an image of what has me so scared on this project

Here is the only image I have of the trouble. I am actually taking delivery on this "little guy" tonight.

After I get her in my possesion, I'll take some more photos.

Yeah that image would have me scared too.

 

[Trollhole]

I noticed on the Rust Bullet site yesterday that they have two "formulas", a standard and an automotive.

Would either of you recommend one over the other?

I use black shell. One step. Paint.

 

[FJBEAR]

Yeah that image would have me scared too.

yea, but here is the overview shot of the rig, makes me feel a little better

The fenders I am not worried about, since I have a set off the '71 that are perfect and the '71 was already planned to recieve tube fenders.

If I didn't have two kids that both want an FJ, I would take the two and build one solid rig! at least with the parts that would interchange.

 

[FJBEAR]

thanks!

 

[freightdog]

I have used Rust-Bullet and like it

I don't have personal experience with POR15, but my husband says Rust Bullet is easier to work with

I have used the POR 15 and it is good stuff - three years running on the 40 and no rust has shown back up in the spots I painted...

 

[FJBEAR]

Since this 40 is going to be driven by my 17 year old daughter, she is going to help with all the work on this rig. the 13 year old son will probably get into the work as well (so he can gain some more experience for the resto/mod of the 71 which is going to be his)

so with that said, I am not only looking for something that will work good until I sand blast it, I also want something that won't be too "dangerous" for the kids to use.

I am also thinking that the one step Rust Bullet would be easier for everyone involved also. Any thought when comparing to the 3 steps POR15 requires?

 

[Cruiser_GT]

If you have an air compressor, visit harbor freight and pick up a clearance gravity feed blasting gun (I found one last week for $15 USD). It holds around 18oz of media (I use 30 grit sand) and runs out about the same time my compressor needs to recover (blast at 90 psi). Get the kid a respirator, gloves, glasses, and put'em on it. You'll need to get the truck up where they can get to the work. Please be safe.

Once blasted, then apply phosphoric acid (home depot and lowes carry it in their paint departments). The stuff is cheap and relatively safe to use... read the instructions. I leave it on for several days and let it etch. Once it is good and dry, I brush off any loose debris, prime, and paint. Please be safe.

Pretty simple and seems to have done a good job of arresting the corrosion on my rig. Time will tell for sure. hth