Rubithon Bound

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slimbuddha

slimbuddha

Joined
Mar 17, 2007
Threads
80
Messages
1,631
Location
Albuquerque, NM
I'm taking my '99 on the Rubithon Wagon run this year, and wanted to get some other opinions on any maintenance items I should look at, or spares I should take. I've owned this for 11 years, so I know the truck very well, and have about 141k miles , wil likely have less than 1k added between now and then.

Mods:
  • Slee Step Sliders
  • 2.5" Medium OME lift
  • Factory center/rear locker
  • ARB front locker
  • Kaymar Rear with swingout
  • ARB Combo bumper
  • African Outback Roof rack, will hold Hi-Lift, Jerry Cans, etc
  • Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors
  • Smittybilt X0 Gen2 12k winch with synthetic line (to be installed)
  • Drawer system in back (in progress)
  • Extend Breathers (have items , to be installed ) Finally extended my breathers
Current To-Do list:
  • Verify Shocks are tight
  • Tensioner and Serpentine belt
  • Dissent Skid plates
  • Alternator (or will bring as spare)
  • Install Timbren Bumpstops
  • Install Rear lower control arm & Skid plate
  • Install extended rear sway bar link
Recent Maintenance
  • Oil Change
  • Heater T's and hoses changed, new fluid
  • Thermostat
  • stabilizer bushings and links
  • Tie-rod ends
  • New set of 5 285/75/18 Nitto Trail Grappler on Tundra wheels
Current (within the last couple years)
  • ATF fluid
  • Steering Fluid
  • Starter
  • Diff fluid changes
  • Group 31 battery

Spares I'm bringing (list started with the help of @beno)
  • Rear drive shaft
  • Spare CV's and boots, studs, nuts, cone washers, bearings, seals, gaskets
  • Wheel studs and some lug nuts (6)
  • Extra drive flange
  • Spare starter
  • Extra Serpentine
  • Coil packs

I am not currently running spacers, but I am also considering them. Thoughts?

And since all posts need a pic:
IMG_20180423_192648.jpg
 
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First... the 100 is a wide rig for some of the spots on the trail. Big Sluice (squeeze between trees and rock) and Cadillac Hill from what I can remember.

I think the truck is set up fine for the trail but be prepared to take some body damage. I have run the trail a couple times and it was in my Tacoma DCab with 2.5" lift, a factory rear locker, 33" BFG AT, sliders, and HD bumpers & skids. Between the 2 trips I only took a little body damage, bent tie rod end, and a bent gas tank resulting in a non-working gas gauge. Not bad bad for a medium built Taco!
 
This is awesome and is my plan next summer with a local Toyota crew that I'm close with that run 1st and 2nd gen 4Runners, Tacoma's and SR5's. They have all told me 'exactly' what @Vistataco said above about tight spots and damage.

I do not have anything to add as it relates to your prep since I've yet to go but I wanted to ask if you were going to keep this thread updated with your trip? Please do, sub'd just in case.

Cheers,
rjones
 
I say add the spacers! I noticed you don't have gears? I broke my front diff gears on my 99 with a ARB front locker installed( which was supposed to fix the weak diff issue). Please note this was only after attempting an obstacle 10+ times and getting caught up on my sliders between rocks, refusing a winch..... Don't be like me, Those 34's are hard to turn, If you don't make something after the 5th time, use your winch! The trip sounds awesome, Take a lot of pictures and upload!!!! Also, do your rear tires rub at full flex? I assume there will be a lot of this. My 35's do. I purchased some Timbren bump stops, yet to be installed and tested though. Supposed to fix that problem.
 
beno said:
Oh yeah, Ron's gonna give it a whirl. ;)
I'll be there to help. ;)
Click to expand...

Great, does that mean your available to take an order? I should have one ready next week.

Vistataco said:
First... the 100 is a wide rig for some of the spots on the trail. Big Sluice (squeeze between trees and rock) and Cadillac Hill from what I can remember.

I think the truck is set up fine for the trail but be prepared to take some body damage. I have run the trail a couple times and it was in my Tacoma DCab with 2.5" lift, a factory rear locker, 33" BFG AT, sliders, and HD bumpers & skids. Between the 2 trips I only took a little body damage, bent tie rod end, and a bent gas tank resulting in a non-working gas gauge. Not bad bad for a medium built Taco!
Click to expand...

I am going with the expectation that damage is not only likely, but a surety, but you either wheel it or you baby it. Several others have made it through with a 100, including @pilotuku just last year with no major damage.

DJCloz said:
I say add the spacers! I noticed you don't have gears? I broke my front diff gears on my 99 with a ARB front locker installed( which was supposed to fix the weak diff issue). Please note this was only after attempting an obstacle 10+ times and getting caught up on my sliders between rocks, refusing a winch..... Don't be like me, Those 34's are hard to turn, If you don't make something after the 5th time, use your winch! The trip sounds awesome, Take a lot of pictures and upload!!!! Also, do your rear tires rub at full flex? I assume there will be a lot of this. My 35's do. I purchased some Timbren bump stops, yet to be installed and tested though. Supposed to fix that problem.
Click to expand...

I have not regeared at this point, as I've been running 33's since I got it, and am only going up to 35s for this. If I like the 35's, I'll regear , but that won't happen before this trip, or I'll go back down to 33"s.

The tires have only been on for a week or so, and I only have about 100 miles with them. There is some slight rubbing so far on the plastic on full turn. I haven't tested the flex to see where it is at, but plan to here shortly. Which Timberons are you installing (part #)? I think I will go with either the 1" or 1.25" spacers, but probably only for the front. The reason I went with the skinny 35's is they seemed to have the least problems with rubbing. Also, I ain't to proud to winch, if I have to, or stack some rocks. I won't want to hold up the group.

As for pictures, hopefully my son will get some pics with me, or I'll hand my camera to a spotter or other person to get some, otherwise, most of my pics will be of other vehicles, as it always goes, its hard to have pics of your own rig, unless its a poser shot.

Keep the ideas coming!
 
Nice! I will be following your progress closely (actually very closely as I will be on Rubithon's wagon run in my 80) to see how the 100 does on the trail. I am currently building mine up and would like to possibly give it a try next year. My mods are pretty similar to yours with the exception of lockers. I still need to regear the diffs, do a t-case gear, and add some f&r e-lockers but that will not happen by June.

Like others have mentioned, some of the "squeezes" will be a challenge in a 100. The rock-tree-rock 1/4 way down big sluice and the first part of cadillac hill will definitely be harder in a 100 compared to the already portly 80. Two years back i saw a fairly new taco make it through most of the trail just fine but completely tear up a rear DS after high centering on the second obstacle on cadillac. This seems to be a weak spot for IFS. Good spotting, copious rock stacking, and judicious usage of a winch will help. Those Dissent skids will be come in handy too.

I will try to run either just before or after you on the trail and can definitely help out with spotting/rock stacking or wrenching if needed. Your spare part list sounds pretty good. That would be most of what i would bring. Make sure your steering rack is in decent condition. Maybe a rear lower control arm would be a good idea too.

What are your travel plans? I am leaving Reno on Monday the 18th around 6pm. Plan is to camp out at Loon that night for an easy start the next day. If you need a place to stay on Sunday I have plenty of room and a semi well equipped garage for any last minute repairs.
 
While not quite Rubicon ready...this is currently where I am at.

26991130847_5cece5bb9b_c.jpg
 
I installed the ones nitro gear or just differentials sells because they are the super soft compound specifically for our trucks. Part number JTOTIM-LC100R $217 shipped is a little steep for a couple rubber pieces; but the rubbing really bothering me at full flex on the trail. I also didn’t want to damage my new 35’s i had just spent a boatload on.
 
I think you have a great set up. You have nothing to worry about... except for body damage... lol.
At least you didn’t have AHC that had to be deleted. That was a pain!

I suggest bring extra valve stem. The ones on the ‘06 are sticking too far out and were vulnerable on the rocks. Snapped two on spider lake and right before Buck.
The key is stacking of rocks. I hope you have a rider that’s willing to do that as it will be a great help for the IFS. That rock once you turn right at Cadillac hill is a biotch... even my 80 got tagged there three years ago. Take it slow...
With patience and paying attention to your spotter, I really think the hundy is as capable.
Lastly, just accept the fact that you’ll get some battle scars and sheet metal damage so if it happens, you already know it, and if it doesn’t, great.
We had little scars on the driver side door because of being impatient on the tree at the sluice.
Unfortunately, our dates are not aligned again so we’re not able to join Rubithon again.
We will be there on the week of July 4th instead. We’re taking the hundy again and a few friends driving down from PNW.
8F008C57-D857-4350-A008-08250AEC60AD.jpeg

Loosing the 2nd valve stem here... not much pictures taken, we were too occupied on getting her through.
19CDE756-82A1-49C7-BC64-CFC374CDF9B9.jpeg
 
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BadReligion said:
I will try to run either just before or after you on the trail and can definitely help out with spotting/rock stacking or wrenching if needed. Your spare part list sounds pretty good. That would be most of what i would bring. Make sure your steering rack is in decent condition. Maybe a rear lower control arm would be a good idea too.

What are your travel plans? I am leaving Reno on Monday the 18th around 6pm. Plan is to camp out at Loon that night for an easy start the next day. If you need a place to stay on Sunday I have plenty of room and a semi well equipped garage for any last minute repairs.
Click to expand...

Current travel plans will be heading up starting on the 15th, spending the weekend passing through Sequoia and Yosemite NF, arriving in Sacramento on Monday. From there, depending on the scheduling, either getting the Dissent Skid plates installed on Monday or early Tuesday, before heading up to Loon lake.

On the way out, assuming all is well, I plan on lining up early, and making a B-line for Vegas. That'll leave me with a relatively easy drive on Monday. Worse case, I will be licking my wounds with repairs somewhere around Tahoe/Reno, until Bertha is ready to make the voyage home. I appreciate the offer.
 
DJCloz said:
I installed the ones nitro gear or just differentials sells because they are the super soft compound specifically for our trucks. Part number JTOTIM-LC100R $217 shipped is a little steep for a couple rubber pieces; but the rubbing really bothering me at full flex on the trail. I also didn’t want to damage my new 35’s i had just spent a boatload on.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, I ordered a set this morning for the rears. Also, I ordered a set of 1" Bora spacers.
 
Hi Ron,
Rode in an 80 for Rubithon 2 years ago, we made it through with no body damage. Armour took a lot of hard whacks.
Spacers? Not just no, Hell no! The trail is tight, you do not want wheels sticking out further, already too wide. Wider also increases your turning radius, not a good thing. The Tundra wheels have same offset as original wheel so they are okay.

Rear lower control arms should be beefy aftermarket ones. The front mounts of those arms need major reinforcing. A few good hits and those mounts bend and crush. Don't know if there an aftermarket solution for mounts, as the ones I have and others I have seen are custom welded solutions.

That ARB Combo bumper is going to be a hindrance. I have it on my 100 and it limits ledges I can attack, and on hard hits tails swing up and damage fenders. The Slee front is what comes to mind when I think Rubicon ready.

Parts: Add U-joints along with nuts and bolts for front and rear drive shafts in addition to ones that come with rear driveshaft. Might want to add front brake hoses, as they are kind of exposed. Couple of spare sparkplugs (had one come loose and break)
Tools: Assume you will have tools to replace all the parts you are carrying. List of check engine codes for 100 series, assume someone will have a code reader. Take hardcopy of FSM, electronic if its all you have.

Other thoughts and options:
You are running OME shocks in good condition? stock would kind of light for regular offroad
Front end - make sure you have at least 60mm of droop. Steering on steep ascents will be dicey with less.
No drop diff? more stress on CV?​
I am running 4:88s and Marlin's low range crawler gearset, makes a big improvement on rougher terrain.
If you have option to move spare tire up, that would be a good thing.
If your rear shocks support extended travel, swaybar links need to be lengthen about two inches to use that travel.

​
 
Skidoo said:
Hi Ron,
Rear lower control arms should be beefy aftermarket ones. The front mounts of those arms need major reinforcing. A few good hits and those mounts bend and crush. Don't know if there an aftermarket solution for mounts, as the ones I have and others I have seen are custom welded solutions.
Click to expand...

Any picutres? Been wanting to tackle this.
 
Very complete and well thought out list. Not sure you need to carry a starter, but if you do you’ll need fresh manifold gaskets.

I dont think spacers will add any improvement in manuverability, in fact maybe adds a weak point. You should be good with stock stance.

I would also carry a spare rear lower link arm, or upgrade to beefier ones and add the bracket skids mentioned above. TrailTailor has a few options to choose from.

Are your front lower control arms reinforced where the torsion bar connects to the LCA? Its a $29 mod to add the rienforcement brackets if you havent.

Good luck and have fun- easy on the skinny peddle, excercise your left foot braking before the trip and you’ll be good to go!

Ive got some old lower rear control arms if you need a spare.
 
Skidoo said:
Hi Ron,
Rode in an 80 for Rubithon 2 years ago, we made it through with no body damage. Armour took a lot of hard whacks.
Spacers? Not just no, Hell no! The trail is tight, you do not want wheels sticking out further, already too wide. Wider also increases your turning radius, not a good thing. The Tundra wheels have same offset as original wheel so they are okay.

Rear lower control arms should be beefy aftermarket ones. The front mounts of those arms need major reinforcing. A few good hits and those mounts bend and crush. Don't know if there an aftermarket solution for mounts, as the ones I have and others I have seen are custom welded solutions.

That ARB Combo bumper is going to be a hindrance. I have it on my 100 and it limits ledges I can attack, and on hard hits tails swing up and damage fenders. The Slee front is what comes to mind when I think Rubicon ready.

Parts: Add U-joints along with nuts and bolts for front and rear drive shafts in addition to ones that come with rear driveshaft. Might want to add front brake hoses, as they are kind of exposed. Couple of spare sparkplugs (had one come loose and break)
Tools: Assume you will have tools to replace all the parts you are carrying. List of check engine codes for 100 series, assume someone will have a code reader. Take hardcopy of FSM, electronic if its all you have.

Other thoughts and options:
You are running OME shocks in good condition? stock would kind of light for regular offroad
Front end - make sure you have at least 60mm of droop. Steering on steep ascents will be dicey with less.
No drop diff? more stress on CV?​
I am running 4:88s and Marlin's low range crawler gearset, makes a big improvement on rougher terrain.
If you have option to move spare tire up, that would be a good thing.
If your rear shocks support extended travel, swaybar links need to be lengthen about two inches to use that travel.​
Click to expand...

The spacers, I'm not committed yet to run on them, I'll see how much the 1" spacer changes the spacing on the tire. Right now, the tire is well tucked in. As far as the front bumper, I'll have to live with it as is.

- OME shocks are in good condition, and there is a Slee diff drop. I may consider getting a new set, swapping them out, and keeping these as spares. Unless anyone has some used ones they want to sell. Still debating this one.
- Spare tire is on a rear swingout (Kaymar bumper)
- Parts - Yes, I'll get new U-joints, and I have considered the brake hoses as well. Also, I will either have an FSM (if I can borrow one). At the very least, I'll have the digital copies, and some printed copies of items such as CV replacement. I'll also have the tools to complete the expected failure points, as well as 2 ODB readers (1 bluetooth that is always plugged in, and 1 normal spare I carry).

Will look into the Trail Taylor Rear sway bar links and lower control links. I am also considering the HD control arms.
 
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fireball said:
100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids
Click to expand...
Thank you, I'm going to order some.

abuck99 said:
Very complete and well thought out list. Not sure you need to carry a starter, but if you do you’ll need fresh manifold gaskets.

I dont think spacers will add any improvement in manuverability, in fact maybe adds a weak point. You should be good with stock stance.

I would also carry a spare rear lower link arm, or upgrade to beefier ones and add the bracket skids mentioned above. TrailTailor has a few options to choose from.

Are your front lower control arms reinforced where the torsion bar connects to the LCA? Its a $29 mod to add the rienforcement brackets if you havent.

Good luck and have fun- easy on the skinny peddle, excercise your left foot braking before the trip and you’ll be good to go!

Ive got some old lower rear control arms if you need a spare.
Click to expand...

I've been debating upgrading the rear lower control arms, so I think I may order a set, and just keep the OEM as spare. Who makes the front lower control arm reinforcements?
 
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