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Thanks. Was not aware of the adapters and the inefficiency of an inverter
Rubicon Solar Power Experience
- Thread starter Cruiserdrew
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Thanks. Was not aware of the adapters and the inefficiency of an inverter
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #102
Some updates in progress for 2017.
New charge controller with Blue Tooth Control. Fun, efficient, nice gadget. Read about it here:
Awesome new MPPT controller with bluetooth control for $99
And a new panel. Why? So I can leave panels mounted on 2 trucks all summer. This panel caught my eye as the price is close to the $1 per watt guideline and it comes delivered for free. Plus, the panel efficiency is 18% which is quite good for a 12 volt type panel. It's about the same size as my 160 watt panel but makes 180 watts at peak output. I'm running 2 refrigerators this year at Rubithon and the extra power might come in handy.
Grape Solar 180-Watt Monocrystalline PV Solar Panel for Cabins, RV's and Back-Up Power Systems-GS-STAR-180W-US - The Home Depot
EDIT: I notice HD has raised the price by $50, maybe not as good a deal as it was, but it is a good panel.
I'll update this as I get things mounted and dialed in.
New charge controller with Blue Tooth Control. Fun, efficient, nice gadget. Read about it here:
Awesome new MPPT controller with bluetooth control for $99
And a new panel. Why? So I can leave panels mounted on 2 trucks all summer. This panel caught my eye as the price is close to the $1 per watt guideline and it comes delivered for free. Plus, the panel efficiency is 18% which is quite good for a 12 volt type panel. It's about the same size as my 160 watt panel but makes 180 watts at peak output. I'm running 2 refrigerators this year at Rubithon and the extra power might come in handy.
Grape Solar 180-Watt Monocrystalline PV Solar Panel for Cabins, RV's and Back-Up Power Systems-GS-STAR-180W-US - The Home Depot
EDIT: I notice HD has raised the price by $50, maybe not as good a deal as it was, but it is a good panel.
I'll update this as I get things mounted and dialed in.
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Are you mounting this on the roof? Or will this be pulled out at camp?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #104
Mounted on the roof but able to tilt up to maximize power harvest.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #105
@LS1FJ40
This is my current set up from last fall in Death Valley. New set up will be similar since this works extremely well:
Notice the other 2 trucks have panels on the ground. The rack my roof panel is attached to is with an 80/20 aluminum extrusion on custom stainless towers that are likely unavailable to the public but AWESOME. I'll have some detail shots later.
This is my current set up from last fall in Death Valley. New set up will be similar since this works extremely well:
Notice the other 2 trucks have panels on the ground. The rack my roof panel is attached to is with an 80/20 aluminum extrusion on custom stainless towers that are likely unavailable to the public but AWESOME. I'll have some detail shots later.
I have my 100 watt Siemens panel that will slide out on my roof rack. I've been researching flexible/adhesive backed solar. I am wondering if there would. E too much glare with one on the hood...
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #107
The flex panels are way too fragile in my book. Read about 'spresso's (common) experience here:
Solar Cynergy experience?
Regarding your hood-way too hot to mount there without an air gap. If you want more solar, just get a 100 watt folding panel and set it out when your 100 watt existing panel isn't enough.
Good point about the heat! I didn't think about that. Makes total sense.
Well, I ordered the 180 watt Grape panel from HD and the controller from Amazon (with dongle) and they will be going on our new trailer. I'm thinking, that I won't have to move it to the ground very often since it will be in the sun while we travel from place to place. We do go to one resort near Sacramento where we stay for a couple of days to get ready for out trips but even in the partial sun, we should be good. I will also have the extension cord and hardware for ground setup just in case.
I'm going to make a 100w folding panel. For my fridge and other power needs. It puts out 5.5 amp at full sun. So far it keeps my fridge a nice 32* and my 50ahr battery at 13.5v throw a cheepo PWM charge controller.
I will be stepping up to 100ahr of batteries for camping use just in case.
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Hey Andy, nice set up. Just skimmed through your thread and had a couple questions for a set up I am looking into similar to yours... I have a Blue Sea aux fuse block I have installed in the rear quarter panel that I have ran #6 ga. wires all the way to fuse block with a 100 amp fuse next to battery. I only have a couple cig type outlets and a dual usb running out of the fuse block, so I know I have more accessories/slots to play with. My question (maybe a really dumb question) I know I can wire my solar charge controller to one of my slots avaliable in my fuse block, but wanted to know if I wired setup like this would it allow me to charge battery that the fuse block is wired to given that the panel/s/controller is up to the task? Pic of my aux fuse block here :
Here are the solar charge controller and solar panel I am most likely going to purchase for my set up...
Amazon.com : ALLPOWERS 20A Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Battery Intelligent Regulator with USB Port Display 12V/24V : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com : ALLPOWERS 100W 18V 12V Bendable SunPower Solar Panel Charger Water/ Shock/ Dust Resistant Solar Charger for RV, boat, cabin, tent, or any other irregular surface : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Here are the solar charge controller and solar panel I am most likely going to purchase for my set up...
Amazon.com : ALLPOWERS 20A Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Battery Intelligent Regulator with USB Port Display 12V/24V : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com : ALLPOWERS 100W 18V 12V Bendable SunPower Solar Panel Charger Water/ Shock/ Dust Resistant Solar Charger for RV, boat, cabin, tent, or any other irregular surface : Patio, Lawn & Garden
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #112
Yes you can. It gives your charging circuit a long run to the battery with slightly higher resistance losses, but it will still work fine, especially since most of the run is 6ga. In an ideal world, you have your charge controller near the battery, but honestly charging from inside the cab works fine, and running it back through your panel also works fine-I do that too. The one thing you give up that might be an issue is the temperature compensation-which is critical if you leave your solar running all the time. But if you only pull it out for a trip, it really won't matter.
Regarding your component choices (you asked!) I don't like either one. If you're going to use a PWM controller, a MorningStar Sunsaver 10 is a much more robust choice. The Sunsaver 20 isn't much more expensive and would allow for a bigger or more panels in the future. The one you show will probably work, but it is not a high quality controller.
Regarding the panel, those bendable panels are very fragile and not recommended by me at all. Check out @spressomon 's experience with them. He had two go bad in just a few months of easy use.
I'd recommend a rigid panel. Yes, it's heavier, bulkier etc but in the end will be far more satisfactory. The folding ones work great. Here is a decent 100Watt panel for OK price:
Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Panel : Patio, Lawn & Garden
The new more efficient panels are nice because they are a bit smaller for the same power, like this:
Amazon.com : Renogy Eclipse 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel : Patio, Lawn & Garden
I have the older (and cheaper!) version of this and it's been awesome. Fully trialed on the Rubicon, in Utah, Death Valley, great product:
Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watt Eclipse Monocrystalline Solar Suitcase with Charge Controller : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Regarding your component choices (you asked!) I don't like either one. If you're going to use a PWM controller, a MorningStar Sunsaver 10 is a much more robust choice. The Sunsaver 20 isn't much more expensive and would allow for a bigger or more panels in the future. The one you show will probably work, but it is not a high quality controller.
Regarding the panel, those bendable panels are very fragile and not recommended by me at all. Check out @spressomon 's experience with them. He had two go bad in just a few months of easy use.
I'd recommend a rigid panel. Yes, it's heavier, bulkier etc but in the end will be far more satisfactory. The folding ones work great. Here is a decent 100Watt panel for OK price:
Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Panel : Patio, Lawn & Garden
The new more efficient panels are nice because they are a bit smaller for the same power, like this:
Amazon.com : Renogy Eclipse 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel : Patio, Lawn & Garden
I have the older (and cheaper!) version of this and it's been awesome. Fully trialed on the Rubicon, in Utah, Death Valley, great product:
Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watt Eclipse Monocrystalline Solar Suitcase with Charge Controller : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Whoa! That was quick.. ha... This is why I asked my questions, I knew I would get good advice/input from a knowledgeable person. I really like the first option/panel you posted and your saying it's better quality and cheaper than the one I was inquiring about..NICE! The 3rd panel you mentioned is very nice too, but I can't justify spending that much pesos at the moment for my solar setup, plus the fact that the solar charge controller is in the back of panel, meh, kind of wanted it to mount next to fuse block.. What stand alone/divorced charge controller would you recommend then? Oh yea, trying to understand these different setups, I'll admit I feel way over my head when it comes to this kinda stuff, but just starting to understand the way all this comes together.. On the 3rd option/panel you provided the link to, there is a schematic on how to wire the whole system , why does it show the power inverter directly connected to the home battery and not the end leads on the solar charge controller like I have seen before on other setups? Here is wire schematic I am talking bout..:
Think I have found a kit with everything in it (recommend?).....
Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with 30A PWM Controller - LCD Display : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com : Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with 30A PWM Controller - LCD Display : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #115
The Renogy wiring scheme is correct except for 2 things, The big one shows the inverter fuse in the wrong place. It should be at the + battery terminal. Less serious and likely not needed is the fuse on the + charge controller lead should be close to the panel if used.
I would recommend you do everything you can to not run an inverter-they waste a ton of power and are rarely needed, plus decent non-junk inverters are really expensive.
Regarding the charge controller, you can mount it near your fuse box, but unless it has a separate temperature lead, you give up the temperature compensation which is not a huge deal for intermittent use.
Like I said, I think for a first system, a MorningStar Sunsaver charge controller will work great. They are very well made, great reputation, mine has been in operation almost 3 years and I think @concretejungle has been running his for over 4. It's a well made, and small device.
Amazon.com: Morningstar SS-10-12V Sunsaver-10 Amp: Patio, Lawn & Garden
You will find, like your Cruiser, your solar will evolve too. Once you have reliable power you end up using more power for stuff. Last year I ran a 160 watt panel at Rubicon, and this year I'll have a 180 watt panel, dual refrigerators, camp lights etc.
You can see my basic set up in post #105
I would recommend you do everything you can to not run an inverter-they waste a ton of power and are rarely needed, plus decent non-junk inverters are really expensive.
Regarding the charge controller, you can mount it near your fuse box, but unless it has a separate temperature lead, you give up the temperature compensation which is not a huge deal for intermittent use.
Like I said, I think for a first system, a MorningStar Sunsaver charge controller will work great. They are very well made, great reputation, mine has been in operation almost 3 years and I think @concretejungle has been running his for over 4. It's a well made, and small device.
Amazon.com: Morningstar SS-10-12V Sunsaver-10 Amp: Patio, Lawn & Garden
You will find, like your Cruiser, your solar will evolve too. Once you have reliable power you end up using more power for stuff. Last year I ran a 160 watt panel at Rubicon, and this year I'll have a 180 watt panel, dual refrigerators, camp lights etc.
You can see my basic set up in post #105
Yes i've been running the MorningStar sun saver for over 4 years and have even had it mounted in the engine bay with high temps (not suggested) and it's worked flawlessly. I would buy it again in a heart beat!
Andy sorry if I missed it, where did you mount your charge controller then? I am assuming inside since the Morningstar does not look like it's meant to be out in the elements... What about you CJ? Pics if possible would be much appreciated... Thanks fellas for all the input...I will definitely go your guys' route with equipment...
I mounted mine on the firewall on my 80 series. I can look through my pics when i get home to see if i have one. It was there from day one and i remember cruiserdrew looking intently at it's location and finally asking me if i've had any issues with it because of the heat of the motor. I told him no. He said they don't like that kind of heat and he was a little surprised. Ever since that day i had planned on moving it, just didn't know where.
Just last month, i finally did a dual battery setup and moved the charge controller into the solar panels (which drew doesn't like either! haha). I figured running heavy gauge and high quality wire would make that OK. So far, using a volt meter, it's working great.
Just last month, i finally did a dual battery setup and moved the charge controller into the solar panels (which drew doesn't like either! haha). I figured running heavy gauge and high quality wire would make that OK. So far, using a volt meter, it's working great.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #119
Ha-yeah, it's all a compromise. I have 4 trucks so I've kept mine mobile and deployable from truck to truck, with the charge controller mounted in a project box to protect it.
For @cc93cruiser , I think you could get away with it mounted next to your fuse panel in the back. That would be a slick and compact install, but realize the real solar gurus want it mounted in the battery compartment. I have found that isn't 100% necessary, but you probably give up a few percent of charging efficiency. I can live with that.
My newest charge controller is mounted on a cutting board!!
For @cc93cruiser , I think you could get away with it mounted next to your fuse panel in the back. That would be a slick and compact install, but realize the real solar gurus want it mounted in the battery compartment. I have found that isn't 100% necessary, but you probably give up a few percent of charging efficiency. I can live with that.
My newest charge controller is mounted on a cutting board!!
I am asking because I ran 6 gauge wire all the way to my quarter panel and wired it to a blue sea fuse block.. Since that is there already, I kind of wanted to wire the solar charger to the fuse block and install controller next to fuse block.. Any problems for seen with this, Drew mentioned that I will lose the temperature compensation feature if mounted next to the fuse block. How big of a deal is this, the only reason I wanted my solar set up is to make sure my arb fridge does not completely drain battery after about a week of camping.. I would probably not power anything else except for the routine cell phone/tablet recharge..