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I am leaving for a UP trip Saturday and am about to give up on bringing my MT17 fridge as I have not integrated it into my Lexus yet. Do the experts here think that if I strapped an AGM Group31 in the back and hooked up a 100 watt panel on the roof rack I could keep the fridge going for 5 full days with zero other charging method? I tried to run my Noco charger off the AC plug in the back but it wouldn't charge a battery, probably too much for the inverter.
 
That will work fine.
 
I am leaving for a UP trip Saturday and am about to give up on bringing my MT17 fridge as I have not integrated it into my Lexus yet. Do the experts here think that if I strapped an AGM Group31 in the back and hooked up a 100 watt panel on the roof rack I could keep the fridge going for 5 full days with zero other charging method? I tried to run my Noco charger off the AC plug in the back but it wouldn't charge a battery, probably too much for the inverter.
Easily. A Group 31 battery alone should run it for 3 days if the temps are moderate.
 
Yeah, MT17 is a tiny fridge. 100W panel can likely direct drive it :)

cheers,
george.
 
Thanks for the input! Now to see if I can get all the parts and pieces gathered off Amazon Prime.
 
Thanks for the input! Now to see if I can get all the parts and pieces gathered off Amazon Prime.

Don't forget the charge controller. It would be handy to bring a multimeter along too, so you can monitor battery voltage. And how well the panel can keep the battery charged also depends on how fast you drink beer. More cold beers out = more warm beers in = more cooling power required. ;)
 
Well nuts, decided spending $200 on our last trip this season was probably not worth it. I did decide to throw the battery in the back and see how long it will go. I figured I could I can run the fridge off the truck's AC when driving and just use the battery when parked. Tonight I grabbed the fridge to give it a go on AC and of course the truck's worthless AC plug is a two prong 115v and the fridge is a 3 prong 120v. Scratch that plan too, cheap and easy is not working this time.
 
^ pick up a 3 pin to 2 pin 'adapter' at any store...

cheers,
george.
 
Worth a shot, I don't know squat about AC and was not sure if something like that would work or cause problems.
 
in a pickle, just cut off the ground prong. Easy to replace the plug later on.
 
About to build my own solar system to use in my 40 but I also have a 2001 f250 with 7.3 diesel that I take out at times as well. I know that some of you buy a stand alone battery and create a power system but I know some folks have the solar system tied into their vehicle battery. I am leaning towards using the vehicle battery which I know how to do with the 40 but since the diesel uses two batteries would I connect the controller to one battery or both for charging purposes? That may be a dumb question but electrical wiring has always confused me for some reason.

Also, I don't see mention of anyone using power inverters (or I overlooked it) when they are running phone/laptop chargers, lights, etc. Are you all directly wiring your ancillary electrical components in to the solar system or are you plugging into an inverter?

Take care
 
You will want a suitably sized inverter running off your battery...

Are you choosing solar for charging your battery because the rig sits without running for more than a day or two?

Start by calculating your appliance(s) demand and work backward for properly sized battery, solar panel(s), inverter, controller, wiring, etc.
 
Nuts, you will need to determine whether your batteries are wired in parallel or in series. (I imagine the main electrical system is 12V but perhaps the starter is 24V? No idea about the F250.) If in parallel then it would be OK I think to connect the output of the controller to one battery, assuming the wires to the second are not very long. If in series, then you might need to have the controller be built for/set to 24V and connect it properly to one electrode of each battery. You probably don't want to charge only 1 battery of 2 in series.

As far as auxiliary equipment, whether you would connect it to an inverter or not would depend on whether the equipment is intended for 120V AC (then yes) or whether it is running on 12V DC (then no).
 
You will want a suitably sized inverter running off your battery...

Are you choosing solar for charging your battery because the rig sits without running for more than a day or two?

Start by calculating your appliance(s) demand and work backward for properly sized battery, solar panel(s), inverter, controller, wiring, etc.

Thanks. Running solar rather than a generator for electrical use in camp.
 
Nuts, you will need to determine whether your batteries are wired in parallel or in series. (I imagine the main electrical system is 12V but perhaps the starter is 24V? No idea about the F250.) If in parallel then it would be OK I think to connect the output of the controller to one battery, assuming the wires to the second are not very long. If in series, then you might need to have the controller be built for/set to 24V and connect it properly to one electrode of each battery. You probably don't want to charge only 1 battery of 2 in series.

As far as auxiliary equipment, whether you would connect it to an inverter or not would depend on whether the equipment is intended for 120V AC (then yes) or whether it is running on 12V DC (then no).

Thanks. They are wired in parallel so it seems that I can attach the solar system to one battery. Will check whether they are dc vs ac.

Appreciate the responses
 
Using an inverter to plug in a laptop/phone charger is very inefficient. It's better to get a dedicated 12V adapter for your phone & gadget charging needs.
 

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