kcjaz
SILVER Star
No matter how I rotate the front drive shaft, I can’t get the grease gun nozzle on the Zirk. The transfer case frame cross bar is in the way. Please tell me you don’t have to take the cross bar off.
RTH. What’s trick to grease front, transfer side, drive shaft spider? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kcjaz
- Start date
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indycole
GOLD Star
Did you take the heat shield off just to the driver’s side of the u-joint? I typically access it from the passenger side but have done it from the driver’s side by removing that heat shield.
Also a needle-style fitting may help if you haven’t already tried.
This is in the forum FAQs. @bloc technique is great. Quick and easy with no special tools other than a flexible hose on the grease gun.
forum.ih8mud.com
How I grease my front driveshaft
I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do. First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a...
forum.ih8mud.com
kcjaz
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys. Need to improve my search skills. @bloc s thread is great. I’ve pumped a lot of grease in the slip joints and no movement. I’ve got the one spider to do yet and I’ve used a 1/4 to 1/3 of a tube. I did pump quite a bit through the gun to purge it as I switched to moly. Just took it for drive and will try a little more.
In my experience, the slip one move as you pump. I would pump 5-10 times, then wait 5 mins. Marker or blue tape to help identify the position before it moves.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #6
Two weeks ago when I greased the prop shafts, I never did get the slip joint to move. I used about 2/3 of a new tube (regular tube not a mini) between the two prop shafts. Driven about 150 miles and no issues but I'm curious enough that I think I will pull the rear shaft off and pull the two parts apart to see what is going on inside. I would think there is some kind of seal in there so my question is will I need to replace anything to put it back together? I want to make sure I have the parts on hand if there are any. I don't see anything in the FSM.
I just had my first introduction to all my zerks today and did find the front shaft rear u joint somewhat challenging. However, it was a breeze with the lock N lube LNL121. No dissent skid plate removal required.
bloc
SILVER Star
Just to circle back around for others that may come along this thread.. no you can’t replace the seal. Just take it apart and be careful on reassembly.
Personally I see no need to take it apart, just remove the zerk and go drive it, preferably over something that will cycle the rear suspension. Put the zerk back, done.
The ambiguity on how much grease it takes and many people’s experience that it basically never moves leads me to disagree with the FSM on this one procedure. As long as it’s done regularly 10, 12, 15 pumps is more than enough to spread around once you apply the centrifugal force of driving. And that little absolutely won’t cause problems with hydro locking the shaft.
That is a great tool. I’ll be looking into it and possibly amending my thread. I still think it is a good method to get the zerks clocked into a position that allows access though.
I still highly recommend the needle attachment. Allows the zerks to be reached on extreme off-angle locations and does not require a direct line of sight so to speak as the Lock-N-Lube does.
Amazon product ASIN B0779FK9CZ
Amazon product ASIN B0779FK9CZ
The use of that adapter still requires getting the zerks in an accessible position, especially the front drive shaft with Dissent skids and it’s rear u joint. Your tire off the ground while in neutral trick is the best method by far.
