ROTM- klinetime574

[klinetime574]

Thanks Greg. I had to do it for the following reason. Need to move some furniture for my Mom. Drove with it empty. Could barely tell. Put a dresser and a full mattress set back there and it's a little noticeable.

Definitely glad I have the ability to tow a trailer. Will make the next move cake. The trailer is 5'x8' inside and the tongue can be lifted easily. The 60 doesn't mind it. Would be more happy with a lower first gear... In due time. In due time.

 

[klinetime574]

With the stuff in the trailer everything went great. Never having towed anything it went well. Slowed down a little on hills. But nothing too bad.

Gassed up at Buc-ee's

Also had to do the redneck horn pin fix. That was a replacement pin. Just wore down. I'll have to look and see how old it was. .22 casing on the pin itself. Fixed. Easy.

 

[The Phoenician]

Nice, I thought about using a .22 for my horn as well, but then saw that the pin was $7 from the dealer and went that route.

 

[KWalkerM]

ya I have 2 spare horn pins and need to replace one a year later now. keep me updated when you need to replace it next.

nice job on that rear drum, those are shinier than mine!. ill have to look into rebuild kits on the WCs since I still have my old ones that I replaced/

 

[klinetime574]

Nice, I thought about using a .22 for my horn as well, but then saw that the pin was $7 from the dealer and went that route.

Yeah I had the same thought. And this one isn't that old. It wore down, and I'm cheap. lol

ya I have 2 spare horn pins and need to replace one a year later now. keep me updated when you need to replace it next.

nice job on that rear drum, those are shinier than mine!. ill have to look into rebuild kits on the WCs since I still have my old ones that I replaced/

With the .22 casing on there I don't expect it to fail. The brass is much harder than whatever the horn pin is made out of. It just ground down and didn't make contact anymore. I even put di-electic grease on there to prevent that. Oh well. I live in Texas. I actually have a redneck too...

 

[KWalkerM]

Yeah I had the same thought. And this one isn't that old. It wore down, and I'm cheap. lol







With the .22 casing on there I don't expect it to fail. The brass is much harder than whatever the horn pin is made out of. It just ground down and didn't make contact anymore. I even put di-electic grease on there to prevent that. Oh well. I live in Texas. I actually have a redneck too...

haha well I consider you a redneck still even if you don't get on dirt every other day, hell those beermosas were proof enough haha 0 0



ill have to try dielectric on there and for my turn signal too since its gumming up from the brass powder on my steering column

 

[klinetime574]

So what's new here....

I decided to pull the coil wire off the other day because I'm paranoid about my rig being stolen if I park it for too long. It broke off in the distributor cap. Using dielectric grease with the OEM on the way from none other than beno

Remember when that coolant hose on my water pump blew? Now everything with the coolant system and this weather change is getting ridiculous. Got a leak somewhere in the vicinity of the oil cooler. Can't track it down because I can't run the motor. Yet.

This is annoying. It made me think if an oil cooler delete was feasible. I know there is a Toyota oil filter mount that has no oil cooler routing. Also a water pump with no outlet for it.

So my question is... Good idea? Or bad idea?

I'm going home for Christmas and am going to track down all my old FJ60 parts. I'm still gonna go through with the 2FE, but I have all these original carb parts, and I can do this much easier than the 2FE. Then I can sell all this Weber stuff. Then pull it all for the 2FE

 

[klinetime574]

Got the new cap on. The old cap was of course ruined. One thing I noticed... The old cap wasn't seated fully, and it was a little dirty in there. Oops.

Don't know how long it was like that. Or how it could have run like that? Maybe it came loose when I was pulling that wire off. Who knows. It runs good now. Put dielectric grease on everything.

I also decided to test the advance on my distributor by sucking on the hose that you can see connected in the first photo. I think it is broken. Air comes straight through. I wonder how long that has been broken

Also re-painted my "Landcruiser" logos on the rear mud flaps. Looks awesome now.

Only the rear mud flaps were painted from the factory right?

Photos show the new cap installed, the paint marker I used, both flaps done, and close up of one of the flaps. Got a new sticker too!

 

[cruisermatt]

Cool tip on the flaps

 

[robustbambi]

Sweet! those flaps look brand new now. And thats one good looking dizzy cap, i really need to remember to put some dielectric grease on mine before it gets full of water somehow. And great sticker choice, i have the same one in the same place

 

[gregnash]

Whats the status on your 2FE build?

 

[cruisermatt]

And where did you get that pen? I can't seem to find it anywhere...

 

[klinetime574]

Sweet! those flaps look brand new now. And thats one good looking dizzy cap, i really need to remember to put some dielectric grease on mine before it gets full of water somehow. And great sticker choice, i have the same one in the same place

Thanks man! And get some grease on there!

Whats the status on your 2FE build?

I've got a ton of parts. I'm swimming in them. I can't really do too much living in an apartment with no garage or time to take the car down. I'm going to get the cylinder head refreshed first. Then I'll start to buy some parts. Then wiring. That's the scary part...

I'm going to work on it as fast as I can. Don't worry, I won't flake out

And where did you get that pen? I can't seem to find it anywhere...

I found it at Hobby Lobby when I wandered off from the girlfriend. I remembered reading the tip on here and then saw a huge display of these markers. Had to get one

 

[dbleon]

I Always enjoy watching the little progressions and stories to boot!

Keep up the hard work in school; it will pay off and you'll have more time and more money to spend on the cruisa!!

 

[klinetime574]

I Always enjoy watching the little progressions and stories to boot! Keep up the hard work in school; it will pay off and you'll have more time and more money to spend on the cruisa!!

Thanks man. I finished up this semester with A-, A-, B+, B, B. That's a 3.33 for the semester. 15 credit hours and I was working about 20 hours a week.

Working hard is the plan. Someone has to keep these classics running!

 

[Joe_E]

Dude, you may want to look over the desmog thread.
You have a major vacuum leak with that pcv T hooked into the dizzy cap like that.
That should be capped at the T.
You should pull intake vacuum for the dizzy cap before it passes the carb.
It may run a little better.
Just sayin.

 

[klinetime574]

Dude, you may want to look over the desmog thread. You have a major vacuum leak with that pcv T hooked into the dizzy cap like that. That should be capped at the T. You should pull intake vacuum for the dizzy cap before it passes the carb. It may run a little better. Just sayin.

Uhhh

You are definitely right now that I think about that. Crap.

At idle I have a perfect 21 on the vacuum gauge, but I have a rather loud air sucking sound inside the cab while running. Don't worry. I'll fix it soon. Weber has had it's run

I'm also pretty sure my vacuum advance is broken. It should hold vacuum with the engine off or on correct? I don't see how that would matter since it's a mechanical piece, but my searches were inconclusive. Can the diaphragms be replaced? Or is it the whole assembly on the distributor?

 

[Joe_E]

Uhhh

You are definitely right now that I think about that. Crap.

At idle I have a perfect 21 on the vacuum gauge, but I have a rather loud air sucking sound inside the cab while running. Don't worry. I'll fix it soon. Weber has had it's run

I'm also pretty sure my vacuum advance is broken. It should hold vacuum with the engine off or on correct? I don't see how that would matter since it's a mechanical piece, but my searches were inconclusive. Can the diaphragms be replaced? Or is it the whole assembly on the distributor?

Yes, the sucking and probably slight wiff of engine oil when you turn it off is from that.

Yes, the diaphram should hold vacuum. When you apply vacuum it will pull the advancer rod and hold it.
Just go buy a new one at napa. I don't think the OEM advancer is available any more.
They aren't rebuildable, kinda sealed.

Or get a used one in classifieds.

 

[Joe_E]

One phillips JIS screw on the outside and the little C clip on the advancer is all it takes to remove it. It has an O ring where it slides in the housing that may take some wiggling to break free. When you put the new one in lube the O ring with a little silicone grease to seal it and make it slide in easier.

 

[klinetime574]

Thanks for the tips Joe_E

Maybe beno will chime in and tell me if it's available or not

Either way I need to get one. Who knows what performance or mileage gains I could get from it...

PS - if that is your distributor it's missing some dirt lol