ROTM- klinetime574

[KWalkerM]

Yeah cause you got a Chevy starter :flipoff:

Delco all day! haha



but ya, just pull the wheel or look for fluid dripping on the tires/off the drums from the inside edge. ill work on getting a writeup going sometime today if I can find time, if not bug me on Monday about it

 

[klinetime574]

So I took a look under the car. Forgot to snap a picture but I'm pretty sure it's the driver side leaking. Nothing extreme, but definitely wet compared to the other side.

This leakage could cause the pedal feel I'm getting? It seems like if air was entering the system the brakes wouldn't work at all, but they will work and then randomly it happens. Occurred about two weeks ago and then the other day, and then when I posted about it.

I'll probably take the wheel off and post a picture when I have the time to get y'all's advice. I like a second opinion before I do repairs

 

[KWalkerM]

So I took a look under the car. Forgot to snap a picture but I'm pretty sure it's the driver side leaking. Nothing extreme, but definitely wet compared to the other side.

This leakage could cause the pedal feel I'm getting? It seems like if air was entering the system the brakes wouldn't work at all, but they will work and then randomly it happens. Occurred about two weeks ago and thken the other day, and then when I posted about it.

I'll probably take the wheel off and post a picture when I have the time to get y'all's advice. I like a second opinion before I do repairs

Yup that will cause a spongy feeling. Brakes are a closed system and are a hydraulic system that dont operate well at all with air in the lines. The wheel cylinder is leaking fluid out which is making what is suppossed to be a closed system open and is letting air in to a certain extent which causes a spongy system because air compresses more than brake fluid. Basically it could be sucking air causing sponge then "bleeding" itsself and pushing the air out clearing the system

You can rebuild the wheel cylinders which I havent done before or you can buy new.

Its a pretty easy rebuild . You will need new shoes and possibly new drums just make sure that they have enough meat behind them. Make sure you keep the drums together with springs etc and take pictures so you have a way to reference back when on reassembly

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Klinetime, thanks for your story. From a guy whose dad is struggling at the end of his life, I have to say your experience brought a tear to my eye and I'm almost 60! Thanks again

 

[klinetime574]

Klinetime, thanks for your story. From a guy whose dad is struggling at the end of his life, I have to say your experience brought a tear to my eye and I'm almost 60! Thanks again

Glad I could light up your day brother.

Here is an "awesome" picture of my DS Rear drum.

 

[sk8salomon]

Glad I could light up your day brother.

Here is an "awesome" picture of my DS Rear drum.

View attachment 822767

yep, might as well get shoes, spring kit, anti-sieze and w/c's for both sides while you are in there.

 

[KWalkerM]

yup time for a rear drum rebuild. you don't have to do a spring rebuild kit, I did mine with the same springs. its fairly easy but don't loose the little brake shoe clips. I lost mine and had to run to the hardware store to replace them.

 

[djoneab]

Yup..did mine with new cylinders in both rears. As for the starter, there is a rebuild kit for that too. A couple of brushes etc.. There is a write up for it. Hard to search on phone.

 

[klinetime574]

Found the starter rebuild thread -----> Click Me!

Thanks djoneab for reminding me of that.

I am going to pull the wheel, and drum off in a little while to see if I have Toyota wheel cylinders so I can determine if I can order Toyota parts for the rebuild. Last time the brakes were worked on I don't know what was done. So I'll look. Sound like a good plan to y'all?

 

[klinetime574]

Yeah. I think this needs some work....

They are Toyota wheel cylinders. Yay

The brakes can be serviced without removing the axle right? Any special tools required? I skimmed the FSM. Didn't sound like it.

 

[djoneab]

i followed this video here

i went through three cans of brake cleaner and a can of spray paint. mine was leaking from the passenger side and looked exactly like yours. i did mine with basic tools.

 

[KWalkerM]

you don't need to remove the axle but its a heck of a lot easier to get the springs across with them out plus you can check wheel bearings while you are In there. all it takes is pulling the rear cover of the diff and doing 10 mins of work on pulling both sides. im still working on doing the writeup for ya on rear brake rebuild for a TLC SF axle

 

[sk8salomon]

don't need to pull the axles. if the shoes are in decent shape, i've slid a new wc in there without taking the brake shoe assy apart, saves a ton of work. one of the pics it looked like the rear shoe was pretty thin so prob best to replace them. the only special tool that is handy is a brake spring compression tool, i've used a large nut driver tho which works fine. keep one finger behind the back plate holding the spring pin from rotating, push in with tool, rotate 90-deg and the spring assy comes apart. just be careful not to lose the little spring washers and wear safety glasses! i got smacked in the eyeball with a spring washer once. hurt for a week

 

[klinetime574]

Thanks dudes for all your info.

The shoes are pretty thin. The photos are of the DS drum. The shoe on the left in the photo is almost non-existant.

Is there a chance that by the shoes being so thin that the wheel cylinder would leak? Pedal only gets weird when I really put some force on it. Maybe it is pushing the piston out so far that it lets fluid out?

I'm just brainstorming this. Gonna order rebuilds for them if that is available.

Definitely getting the starter rebuild kit.

Just called beno a minute ago. I'm sure I'll hear back soon

 

[klinetime574]

Got my parts from beno today

Ordered and received:

04474-35100 Cylinder Kit (Two)

04495-60070 Shoe Kit

90029-60009 Spring (Two)

28226-72010 Starter Kit

28226-72080 Starter Kit

28235-35080 Plunger, Magnet

So now I can get off my butt… Rebuild my starter and service the rear brakes. Rebuilding the wheel cylinders and installing new shoes. The drums I will check and buy locally if needed, but I think they should be okay. I will check them though.

Just posting this to motivate myself. Will start tomorrow on the brakes after class. I've had no choice but to keep driving and the brakes have had no issues. Not the brightest idea, I know, but this is my only car. It always seems to fix itself, I swear.

 

[ryaneddy16]

Its not that bad doing the rear brakes. just do one side at a time.

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

I'm gonna avoid that, and putting a loop around a hitch ball. The guy at Master Hitch suggested that, and I immediately said I've seen pictures of those things embedded into vehicles from snapping off. He said that wouldn't happen
.

A way I have done in the past depending on strap size, run it fully through the hitch and then just loop it through the other side. Then just the other vehicle needs a d-ring or something.

 

[klinetime574]

Well guys and gals, I got the rear brakes done.

Started with the non-leaking side so I could get a grasp of doing it with cleaner parts. Good idea. The other side even though I knew what I was doing took longer.

The brakes work pretty well now. Pedal feels different (all air is bled, no worries) and my e-brake works again! Before the handbrake in the cab actually came up pretty high. Now it goes about 3/4 of that distance if that. You'll see in the photos that my brake shoes were really worn down.

Some useful things I can think of at the moment:

• Have a cleaner on hand with some old rags
• Use vise grips to remove the large return spring
• Take pictures along the way
• Don't forget to grease the adjustment rod thingy

Picture explanation

1. Beginning

2. Passenger Side Front Shoe Comparison (guess which one is new)

3. Shoes removed, fairly empty

4. Wheel cylinder stripped down (that's brake fluid oozing out, not damage)

5. New parts in the wheel cylinder

More photos and stuff in the next post...

 

[klinetime574]

1. Done!

2. Love the detail on these old parts

3. Another complete photo

4. How the 60 sits currently. I removed the rear center caps on the wheels to try out the look. I kinda like it.

Small note about rebuilding the wheel cylinders. I'm glad I went that route. The parts are available. Didn't need any tools for that part of the job. And shiny.

And a question: The drums have 6 lug holes, two 8mm threaded bolt holes, one large hole, and another conical indent hole. On the axle there is a cavity that lines up with the large hole. A threaded portion that lines up with the conical indent hole. The two 8mm ones are used to aid in removal so their placement does not matter. But should the other two holes be lined up with the corresponding piece on the axle itself? It almost looks like there could be a small screw that would align the drum before installing the wheel. I've never heard mention of that, nor does the FSM say anything. So whats the deal with those extra holes?

BIG shoutout to beno at Lowe Toyota. Dude knows his stuff. Order from him before they put a wrench in his hand instead of a mouse that orders us parts! He must wake up in the morning reciting Toyota Part Numbers though. It sounded like he was reading a computer screen, but I don't think he was...

That's all I can think of at the moment. Need to do some homework now. Oh joy.

 

[gregnash]

Yup done this (except i just went and replaced my wheel cylinders with AISIN ones) and really it is a cake job. Definitely go through lots and lots of brake cleaner and good to get things all nice and shiny in there. Glad you got things working again and damn were your shoes just about done!