ROTM- klinetime574 (1 Viewer)

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what we use at our shop are little picks like dental ones just bigger from snap-on to get the hoses off. if you are going to pull the hose and get a new one, just cut it along the length and peel it off. if I were you I would just pull the large coolant hose too for a little more room to pull the smaller one. if you have a little bit of cash to spend just replace all the hoses and hose clamps while you are in there, they shouldn't be too expensive. if one blew out the others are probably rotting a little bit too but that's just my 2 cents.

nice fuse block! im in the process of doing all that stuff too but am having trouble finding places to mount fuses inside the truck where they are still accessible since one is getting run to the back of the truck lol.

if you run a relay to give the block power I have the wiring diagrams for what wires are what on the steering column. for instance the blue and red wire is your ACC position on the keys. so my relay completes the circuit to the fuse panel when the key is in ACC position because I spliced into that wire so im not running power all the time and im not draining the battery. I can look up what wire is the Run key position if you want that too and other stuff like that
 
Hey do you happen to have the parts numbers off those belts? If so, could you post them?

I will do that when I get home for you :)

And Kyle. Thanks for the tips. I already got the hose replaced. No time for total hose replacement. This one wasn't even that old. Don't know why it broke. Whatever haha. Undid the hard line on the timing cover to get some more room. That thing is a PITA

Some pics of the hose removed. Old belt vs new belt and my mess haha

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From left to right:

PS, Alt, crank

#99343-11570-77

Air pump, Water pump, crank

#99343-11120-77

AC, crank

#99343-11260-78

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SHE LIVES :bounce::bounce2:

Got things all buttoned up with the heater hose, installed Jim C pulley, and the BVSV plugs.

One weird thing. The alternator/ power steering hose I got from beno was shorter than the previous one I had. The other one must have been sourced from SOR, cause thats the last time I remember replacing them (like 30+ thousand miles ago haha). No worries on that though. Plenty of room for adjustment.

Also my engine has never been this quiet. Maybe that longer belt was too wide. I didn't compare widths, only length. Oops. Also the JimC pulley is da bomb. I like that the bearing needs no maintenance. Put on and go. I think I forgot to grease the old SOR one a few times. (That was PITA to do anyway)

Video of the goodness :banana:



Also pictures (that yellow funnel is awesome. Wide mouth fits perfect inside of the radiator neck, and milk jugs/ coolant jugs.)

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Looking good dude.. I have that exact same funnel and it is great, also fits inside the radiator overflow perfectly as well. I wish my cruiser sounded that quiet, but I know that I have a couple exhaust leaks in there.. all in due time!
 
Looking good dude.. I have that exact same funnel and it is great, also fits inside the radiator overflow perfectly as well. I wish my cruiser sounded that quiet, but I know that I have a couple exhaust leaks in there.. all in due time!

Thanks Greg!

More progress. Got my Draw-Tite hitch painted and installed. Standard wiring put in (for a U-haul trailer, nothing fancy) I used "Rustoleum Professional" spray paint.

Thing was gross when I got it. First photo is after some wire brushing. Gave up on that and borrowed a friends house and grinder!

Second and third show primer and paint. Fourth is a shot while inside Master Hitch.

Fifth is my "Go ahead and tailgate me." We shall see how it works! haha

Take note this Draw-Tite hitch does allow room for a 33" spare in the factory spot. Wish I had a part number, but it was worn off!

Next I need to work on the fuse box. I'll get there.

And another thing I'm worried about. I had to remove both tow hooks. Front because of the ARB and rear from this hitch. What should I do? Any good solutions?

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I am about to pull both my rear towhooks since they drag on everything from my departure angle. If you want to ditch the rear bumper try mounting the hook on the side of the frame. For the front, drill holes in the ARB and mount them there if you dont have issues doing that. I dont think there are too many other options for tow hooks with a draw tite. Shoot darrell a fb message and see if he put his hook is back on.
 
Not ditching the rear bumper. The hook may actually still fit in the original location, but I'll need a hole drilled through the hitch now. Shop was gonna charge me for that.... No thanks, so I just left it alone.

And the front. I definitely will not be drilling holes in my ARB. No where decent to mount it anyway.

An option for the rear is to get a 2" receiver shackle. Like THIS one. It's only money... haha
 
what i do is if i need to use a strap on the rear, i stick the loop of the strap in to the receiver and run the hitch pin threw the loop

I would be concerned with the pin strength laterally and the cotter pin if its sliding that way. I also have one of those shackle recievers and its well worth it. Just remeber that your draw tite more than likely has a strength lower than the vehicle weight under a shock load.

For the arb, idk what you can do since im assuming that the top bars cant take a recovery load. Really I think the best bet is to take some time to drill 2 holes for the hooks on top and go from there.
 
Funny... I solved this problem with that exact same shackle... :D

lol. I'll find one on Craigslist or something. Anything to save a buck!

what i do is if i need to use a strap on the rear, i stick the loop of the strap in to the receiver and run the hitch pin threw the loop

I'm gonna avoid that, and putting a loop around a hitch ball. The guy at Master Hitch suggested that, and I immediately said I've seen pictures of those things embedded into vehicles from snapping off. He said that wouldn't happen :rolleyes:

For the arb, idk what you can do since im assuming that the top bars cant take a recovery load. Really I think the best bet is to take some time to drill 2 holes for the hooks on top and go from there.

Drilling anywhere on the bumper isn't gonna be strong enough. It's only plate. Have to get into the frame to do any good. I'll do some research on this...
 
Funny I believe I have the same hitch, I will have to go crawl under the truck later and see if the number is still on there. Got mine from a local club member for $50. I went with grade 8 bolts to mount the hitch and ended up just putting the tow hook on with just a single bolt. Not the best alternative but works for the moment but I like Darrell's solution with the tow hook on the hitch accessory.

Also, if you have a 4WheelParts near you they are doing a free Smittybilt tow strap, no purchase necessary, right now until the 27th. Found the deal through the T4R.org forums and talked to my local and they said they would honor it.
 
Yeah I'll have to look into the tow strap. That sounds like a good deal.

Two things I need to ask about:

1. My brake pedal has been becoming very easy to press down after use. Leave it alone for a few minutes and it's back to normal. Almost like something is binding? Fluid was a little low this morning. First time I've had to top it off.

Brake Booster? Or Brake Master Cylinder?

2. My starter has needed the old smack it with a stick method twice now.

Can it be rebuilt with Toyota parts? Or just order a whole new Toyota starter?

Thanks guys :)
 
Yeah I'll have to look into the tow strap. That sounds like a good deal.

Two things I need to ask about:

1. My brake pedal has been becoming very easy to press down after use. Leave it alone for a few minutes and it's back to normal. Almost like something is binding? Fluid was a little low this morning. First time I've had to top it off.

Brake Booster? Or Brake Master Cylinder?

2. My starter has needed the old smack it with a stick method twice now.

Can it be rebuilt with Toyota parts? Or just order a whole new Toyota starter?

Thanks guys :)

When was the last time the rear drums were serviced? The wheel cylinders in the rear will leak brake fluid when the shoes are worn or the drums are too thin. I have a full set of drum pics/unwritten writeup that i can get to you if you havent rebuilt the rear axle or brakes before.. Air gets in the lines and can get soft when the cypinders leak

. If those are fine, the soft pedal could be from the master cylinder. If it was the booster going out iirc the pedal would be really harder and not easily depressed as if the engine was off

Basically find out wjere the brake fluid went since it had to have gone somewhere. My guess is rear drums.

I cant help ya with the starter but get that fixed quick because I got stranded in the middle of nowhere when my starter took a s*** on me at night in the middle of the woods
 
With the engine off the pedal stays exactly the same. This is what makes me suspect the master cylinder. There must be a piston in there that could be binding. The brakes still work. But the piston might not be retracting. (If that's how it works lol)

I think you may be right about the rear brakes though. It's been a while ago. Never had to work on the brakes myself. Not scared of it, just need to get in there. Definitely would look at a write-up if you posted one. Maybe I'll pull a wheel off and check.
 
...I cant help ya with the starter but get that fixed quick because I got stranded in the middle of nowhere when my starter took a s*** on me at night in the middle of the woods...


Yeah cause you got a Chevy starter :flipoff: :D
 

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