Rosie the Riveter Build. (1 Viewer)

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I would stay away from a timer on a manual glow system . What would be the point ? Too much work to hold the button down ? Sometimes 10 seconds is not enough . I frequently glow in spurts after my 3b starts to smooth out misfires until it runs for a few minutes .
10.5v glow plugs are the ones to use for a wilson type setup .
 
Do you want the the oil filter down so it dosent puke as much oil when you do a change ?
 
I got the gasket kid from Spector ofroad(sor.com) and it looks to be a complete one. I also got my hands on a down facing oil filter mount, and ya so that it doesn't dump as much oil when doing a change or so that it is more containable.

Also we made some new leather shifter boots, to replace the seriously dead oem ones.
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Working on reupholstering the inside of the doors, the rear view mirrors and eventually making covers for the seats to match everything.
here is what we have so far.

Every hole is hand punched and it is giving me a headache! :bang:

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Wow, that leather work is seriously impressive! I'm liking this build more and more every day! Keep up the good work!
 
Lots of work on those fenders, I think Steve has a few new sets for a good price at Extreme Bends in Vancouver.

I would also agree with the other comment on not using a timer, early factory BJ42s had a glow switch that you hold and they used a plug that held the heat a little longer or you could bump it while running to smooth it out.

Cruiser pilot has an entire wiring harness from a 1979 BJ40 with this system, probably not for sale I think its going into his FJ40 13BT truck.
 
Wiring not for sale. I saw a huge pile of front fenders in Steves shop last week. He has piles of every part, by the looks of it
 
We got some more work done. The bed extension (floor to the pop tent) is made out aluminium and riveted every 3 inches. It is going to be cabled to the internal roll cage and cantilevered out the back, ignore the level "prop". Tomorrow I'm going to bend up the upright for the tent support on the back. We sandblasted the oil pan and I welded up the holes and polished up the welds. Can't even tell they were there. Now we're waiting for primer to dry. Also finally got the engine gaskets so that is going together nicely.

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Finally got the supports for the roll cage mocked up and tack welded together. The whole thing comes apart so it doesn't look like some giant electroshock spider monkey when we take it off. Going to finish welding it up today and then spend 4 days waiting for paint/primer to dry.

We still need to mount the light bars on the outside of the cage so it will look less "top-hatish" when those are on.
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Enter the electroshock spider monkey!
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This is the bracing on the back for stabilizing/rigidity. It wanted to wiggle a LOT before we put these and the diagonal bracing to the front fenders.
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Fitting the top of the ladder together.
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Welded to the top plate that bolts to the roof rack.
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Getting the angles right, actually 75 deg but close...haha
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The attachment to the roof rack plate
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Making sure the back window still opens
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An the tire carrier still swings out all the way.
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We finally got all of the stitching done on one of the door panels.

hand punched eek

Worth it in the end but omg what a pain

It was worth it!

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Getting the angles right, actually 75 deg but close...haha
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The attachment to the roof rack plate
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Making sure the back window still opens
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An the tire carrier still swings out all the way.
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We finally got all of the stitching done on one of the door panels.



It was worth it!

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Is that going to be enough space between the kick out window and the support? Hard to tell from the pic, but I'd hate to see the window get broken if the frame flexes.
 
ithe frame is only close when the window is p
Is that going to be enough space between the kick out window and the support? Hard to tell from the pic, but I'd hate to see the window get broken if the frame flexes.
opening or closing.

Once it is past the choke point there is plenty of room
 

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