Rosie the Riveter Build. (1 Viewer)

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And if you don't end up using the edic motor/controller I could I could swap you a dented oil pan for it!
 
Ya, the engine is 12v so that will make life a lot easier. I also am going to go over to 12v glowplugs and simplify the system so that I can just hold a switch instead of the complicated thing they had. I also am going over to a manual fuel shutoff instead of the complicated electric one that it came with. I know that this will eliminate the automated shutoff for low oil and such but I am ok with that.

If you have a bj60 motor and its 12V thats a good start. Heads up you'll still likely need to get the stuff to clock the starter... Basically a different base so that it points differently. Because the BJ60 is wider frames, the starter sticks out instead of up down if I remember right.

If you are doing the oilpan anyway, now is a great time to weld a bung in there for a turbo so you don't have to drop the pan twice!
 
Yeah I get you a picture tonight. Good call on the starter I also had that issue and had to hunt down a 42 base
 
My 3b came from a 85 bj60 and had the aluminum bellhousing and bolt guide plate and the starter I tracked down wouldn't fit that either I switched the bellhousing and plate for an earlier cast one
 
Haha I know what a river pickle is but what is a sea potato?

A grumpy a-hole who haunts the internet...



I sold one to @seapotato then stole the useful parts before I gave it to him :)

For what its worth a 70 base works too!

I did a lot of mixing and matching when I put an 85 3b into Moutard. Steel/alum bellhousing , that freaking plate, and then starter guts from one end of shop floor to the other...

Happily avoided anything to do with that ever since.
 
If you have a bj60 motor and its 12V thats a good start. Heads up you'll still likely need to get the stuff to clock the starter... Basically a different base so that it points differently. Because the BJ60 is wider frames, the starter sticks out instead of up down if I remember right.

If you are doing the oilpan anyway, now is a great time to weld a bung in there for a turbo so you don't have to drop the pan twice!


For the glow plugs I just bought push button off of amazon and am going to connect it to a time-delay relay. That way I can just get in push the button and the relay holds for ...10ish seconds. Also going to put a light in the dash so you can climb in, push the button and wait for the light to turn off.
 
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I forgot this pan was more than dented its been badly patched as well. your pan might be in better shape, rust holes can be braised easily.You can have this one for free if you need it
 
View attachment 1352281I think these are the ones I have gotten at lordco
Thanks, are those a direct 12v or do I need to drop the voltage down to 10?




View attachment 1352278 View attachment 1352276 I forgot this pan was more than dented its been badly patched as well. your pan might be in better shape, rust holes can be braised easily.You can have this one for free if you need it


Ya that is a little bit banged up. I may pass on it thank you though. the one I have is in better shape.
 
Haha yeah I forgot it was that rough. A 10v glow plug will just burn hotter at 12v and not last as long
 
Update.

We, finally, got out hands on dark green high temp paint. A thorough search of local autobody stores and then a extensive amazon search turned up one shade of dark green. Turns out it the right shade. We have a gloss clear coat to put over it to. All the lettering will be highlited in black, if it is on the cream, or cream if it is on the green, and the injector lines and injectors will be cream and the injector pump will be green.

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This is the roof rack so far. I had to cut out three sections of side rail because they had been burst by ice and I added the cross bracing underneath for added strength. I spend 4 hours today doing spotwelds on that perforated metal. I really don't want it to rattle and I don't want water to get under the paint and rot it out from the inside so I decided to weld the either thing. Took awhile but, worth it.


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Thanks, are those a direct 12v or do I need to drop the voltage down to 10?

If I remember correctly I think the options were
6v for the superglow system on a 12v truck,
10.5v for non superglow 12v truck
Or 14.4v for 24v superglow
And 20.5v without.
 

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