Rosie the Riveter Build. (5 Viewers)

[LittleJohn]

Take the time to wirewheel and paint the frame rails while you have the space to get at them! I did that and was so so happy that I did!

Also send me a message if you need any tips... I have done the same swap

I plan on basically finishing everything that I need to do to the whole rig, then tearing the entire thing apart and sandblasting and painting the frame and sanding and painting the whole truck once everything is welded and the truck is done.

And you're just noticing this now?

Jeebus dude. Thought I drank a lot while working on my cruisers. ...

The funny thing is I don't even drink. I have no excuse! haha

 

[LittleJohn]

OK update.

Got a lot done today, without getting anything done at all. Not sure how that works. The first set is of random stuff and the second set is of trying to get the gas tank out. Turns out, I think, I need to remove the rear axle, or take the body off. That sucks.

Made a list of everything that needs doing. I'm sure that it is far from comprehensive so feel free to add to it, there's 4ft more paper on the right just in case.

This is why I'm rebuilding the transmission

Tore into the wiring harness today looking for "electrical tape connectors". I'm going to replace them all with proper solder, liquid electrical tape and heat-shrink. I don't like chasing electrical problems and I don't mind soldering so I figured I'll do some preventative maintenance instead of banging my head against a wall in 10 years.

Lookie what came in the mail today. We had these made to match the ones we have to replace the dash. On that note I have a decent gauge cluster that will be coming up soon...

 

[LittleJohn]

Ok so, I learned, or think I learned, a couple of things today.
1) I don't think I can get the gas can out without taking either the axle off or the body off. I'm voting for the axel. Ideas.
2) I think I have a stainless fuel tank. Some how I doubt that Toyota was putting stainless tanks in things in 79, am I wrong?
3) Every time I take a fuel tank out of something it is FULL. Every single time! ahhhhhhhhhhhh
4) The person who put the tank in last decided to not use the nice brackets that are welded in place for attaching the bands that hold the tank in place. instead they drilled two holes in the floor and bolted it to the centre of the bed.

You can see the stainless where I have been touching it here.

Siphoning the gas out of the tank.

Bolting going through the provided bracket and into the tub

Aforementioned bolt heads in the floor. There was a small metal plate welded to each of them so we couldn't get a wrench on them, because of the welds, and the Visegrips just slipped off. I ended up cutting them with a zip disk.

 

[seapotato]

On my 42, it was possible to get the tank out, but had to remove driveshaft, and jack frame up until rear axle was almost lifting off the ground. Gives you a bit more room.
Wiggle until it drops out....putting it back in, is considerably less fun.

 

[stevebradford]

All my factory tanks have had drain plugs. Like the idea of a stainless one though. If I remember right the aqulu tub is pre drilled and those threw bolts are provided for the gas tank mounts. I also dident like that and used shorter bolts just to the bracket

 

[LittleJohn]

On my 42, it was possible to get the tank out, but had to remove driveshaft, and jack frame up until rear axle was almost lifting off the ground. Gives you a bit more room.
Wiggle until it drops out....putting it back in, is considerably less fun.

I hadn't tried that I'll give it a go. I don't think I"m going to fill the tank then put it in so that should help...hopefully. Either that or I'm just going to end up hating life. One of the other.

All my factory tanks have had drain plugs. Like the idea of a stainless one though. If I remember right the aqulu tub is pre drilled and those threw bolts are provided for the gas tank mounts. I also didn't like that and used shorter bolts just to the bracket

Ya I don't like the bolt heads poking through the floor. I think I'm going to attach them to the brackets and just be sure to put in a large washer to spread the load out a bit. now I need to find an aluminium welder to patch the holes in the floor...

 

[stevebradford]

And at least if those tank bolts don't hold you won't leave the tank behind on the road, unless you axles falls off too. seems unlikely though

 

[stevebradford]

Sounds like you are up for doing the trans rebuild your self but if not I have had two h55s rebuilt by Darcy at bullfrog trans. Very happy with them.

 

[LittleJohn]

Sounds like you are up for doing the trans rebuild your self but if not I have had two h55s rebuilt by Darcy at bullfrog trans. Very happy with them.

I'm so far into this I don't want to spend any more money if I can help it, you know till I need to paint it...and some other stuff. but ya I already have the rebuild kit for the trans and transfercase so I may as well just do it myself.

 

[crustyBJ60]

a magnet will tell you if your tank is stainless or not...

cheers
crusty

 

[LittleJohn]

a magnet will tell you if your tank is stainless or not...

cheers
crusty

I don't know why I didn't think of that.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Not sure if this is helpfull, wrote this up in 2004 with no pics..did the rebuild with all home made tools and a clamshell puller...

Good luck

1. Hmmm, Ok really quick in a nutshell.
   
   The rebuild kit or bearing kit comes with five main bearings that need pullers, two full shell needle roller bearings and one half shell set roller bearing plus all the gaskets and seals.
   
   You have to pull the bearings off the Counter gear shaft first ( the bottom shaft in the transmission). They require either the SST tool or make up a simiular puller, in my case I pulled the retaining clips off the bearings. I then purchased a OTC clam shell and ground the contour until it fit into the retaining ring or snap ring groove.
   
   We then used a very small 1 ton bottle jack as a puller, beats the crap out of using a screw type device and seems to pull in a more uniform and smooth actions (gotta love hydrolics).
   
   We of course looked for grade 8 ready rod and had no luck, went to the local spring shop and they had U-bolt material of the same size and thread dimention to fit the puller. We purchased two lengths as the output shaft on a H55 is very long.
   
   Remove case cover(shifte base) first.
   
   Start by removing the locking ball and spring on the rear of the fifth gear assembly. Pull the fifth shift arm and pul the transfer adapter from the transmission. Then measure thrust clearnance, this is were a manual comes in handy for specs.
   
   1st and 2nd gears 0.175-0.325mm
   3rd gear 0.125-0.275mm
   5th gear 0.1.0-0.030mm
   
   
   Then you first have to pull the fifth gear assemble off using the puller (make sure the clam shell is tightly clamp onto the gear or you risk chipping the teeth).
   
   Once you pull all the bearings and are able to pull out the upper shaft(Input shaft), you are ready to disassemble the input from the output shaft(top shaft in case). You will have eight needle style loose bearings in between that will be first replaced with the units in the kit. (The reason I went with the hydrolics is these bearings have proven to be very tight and the original idea of using a clam puller and pieces of plate did not work very well. The clam pull however set up with a small bottle jack and strait U-bolt stock worked very well).
   
   Secondly you will pull the Needle rollers out of the output shaft and replace them also.I kinda simplified and passed some steps that I feel are self explanitory.
   
   Everththing in reverse, instead of putting SST drivers on both ends of the shafts to install I prefer to use heat. A old timer helped me through my first one and all he did was attach a 3/8s chunk of steel to my welding table, hanging over the edge. He then heated the plate with the bearing sitting on top unitl I could just barely see the grease on the bearing starting to smoke. Then with a thick pair of welding gloves(you gotta move fast) pick the bearing up and drop it on the shaft into its housing. The bearing will quench against the shaft and shrink, you only have seconds to take a brass punch and gently tap around the race. We do this becasue of the heat and amoun the bearing has expanded and will contract will leave a couple thou between the bearing and shaft.
   
   Once its all back together you can do some more measurements and and check the thrust clearnaces.
   
   In most cases this will make a transmission which I could barely hear the person next to me talk as quiet as new.
   
   PS; The transfer case is a peice of cake and in most cases is in far worse condition than the tranny.
   
   Inspect all your gear surfaces for abnormal wear, high low or chipped teeth before the bearing replacement(or as most call this a rebuild).
   
   Please take the time to clean the outer cases and ensure the internal parts are very clean, one little chunck of dirt could make all your hard work worthless in a split second.
   
   
   My friend who works with me from time to time is a 48 year old Mill Right, diesel mechanic, automotive mechanic, two tickets in welding and spent 15 years rebuilding locomotive diesels has tought me soooo much and owe much thanks.
   
   Sorry to say he is a chev guy, but every time he opens a H55 with 300000+ miles he always comments on the metal. His comment is ( I will give you one thing, they use some damn tough alloys in these trannies)..
   
   
   Hmmm, did I say quick and in a Nut Shell?
   
   Good luck.
   
   Rob

 

[LittleJohn]

Not sure if this is helpfull, wrote this up in 2004 with no pics..did the rebuild with all home made tools and a clamshell puller...

Good luck

1. Hmmm, Ok really quick in a nutshell.
   
   The rebuild kit or bearing kit comes with five main bearings that need pullers, two full shell needle roller bearings and one half shell set roller bearing plus all the gaskets and seals.
   
   You have to pull the bearings off the Counter gear shaft first ( the bottom shaft in the transmission). They require either the SST tool or make up a simiular puller, in my case I pulled the retaining clips off the bearings. I then purchased a OTC clam shell and ground the contour until it fit into the retaining ring or snap ring groove.
   
   We then used a very small 1 ton bottle jack as a puller, beats the crap out of using a screw type device and seems to pull in a more uniform and smooth actions (gotta love hydrolics).
   
   We of course looked for grade 8 ready rod and had no luck, went to the local spring shop and they had U-bolt material of the same size and thread dimention to fit the puller. We purchased two lengths as the output shaft on a H55 is very long.
   
   Remove case cover(shifte base) first.
   
   Start by removing the locking ball and spring on the rear of the fifth gear assembly. Pull the fifth shift arm and pul the transfer adapter from the transmission. Then measure thrust clearnance, this is were a manual comes in handy for specs.
   
   1st and 2nd gears 0.175-0.325mm
   3rd gear 0.125-0.275mm
   5th gear 0.1.0-0.030mm
   
   
   Then you first have to pull the fifth gear assemble off using the puller (make sure the clam shell is tightly clamp onto the gear or you risk chipping the teeth).
   
   Once you pull all the bearings and are able to pull out the upper shaft(Input shaft), you are ready to disassemble the input from the output shaft(top shaft in case). You will have eight needle style loose bearings in between that will be first replaced with the units in the kit. (The reason I went with the hydrolics is these bearings have proven to be very tight and the original idea of using a clam puller and pieces of plate did not work very well. The clam pull however set up with a small bottle jack and strait U-bolt stock worked very well).
   
   Secondly you will pull the Needle rollers out of the output shaft and replace them also.I kinda simplified and passed some steps that I feel are self explanitory.
   
   Everththing in reverse, instead of putting SST drivers on both ends of the shafts to install I prefer to use heat. A old timer helped me through my first one and all he did was attach a 3/8s chunk of steel to my welding table, hanging over the edge. He then heated the plate with the bearing sitting on top unitl I could just barely see the grease on the bearing starting to smoke. Then with a thick pair of welding gloves(you gotta move fast) pick the bearing up and drop it on the shaft into its housing. The bearing will quench against the shaft and shrink, you only have seconds to take a brass punch and gently tap around the race. We do this becasue of the heat and amoun the bearing has expanded and will contract will leave a couple thou between the bearing and shaft.
   
   Once its all back together you can do some more measurements and and check the thrust clearnaces.
   
   In most cases this will make a transmission which I could barely hear the person next to me talk as quiet as new.
   
   PS; The transfer case is a peice of cake and in most cases is in far worse condition than the tranny.
   
   Inspect all your gear surfaces for abnormal wear, high low or chipped teeth before the bearing replacement(or as most call this a rebuild).
   
   Please take the time to clean the outer cases and ensure the internal parts are very clean, one little chunck of dirt could make all your hard work worthless in a split second.
   
   
   My friend who works with me from time to time is a 48 year old Mill Right, diesel mechanic, automotive mechanic, two tickets in welding and spent 15 years rebuilding locomotive diesels has tought me soooo much and owe much thanks.
   
   Sorry to say he is a chev guy, but every time he opens a H55 with 300000+ miles he always comments on the metal. His comment is ( I will give you one thing, they use some damn tough alloys in these trannies)..
   
   
   Hmmm, did I say quick and in a Nut Shell?
   
   Good luck.
   
   Rob

!

Rob!
That is one heck of a big "nut shell"! Thank you. This should make life a bit easier. That is a good trick with the plate and bearing. and I'm think I'm gona try making my own SST tool to. thanks
I'll buy you a beer next meet when were both there.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

I did a read through, when tapping the bearing race, only tap it on the part attached to the shaft, otherwise you would damage the bearing...

Did about 5 transmissions over the years, not all that hard, the clam shell pull was made with ready rod and a bracket, I will take a picture later.. there a few home made tool videos and pictures on the interweb...

Good luck John

 

[LittleJohn]

On my 42, it was possible to get the tank out, but had to remove driveshaft, and jack frame up until rear axle was almost lifting off the ground. Gives you a bit more room.
Wiggle until it drops out....putting it back in, is considerably less fun.

Got the gas tank out. I tried jacking the frame up but no go. I already had the driveshaft out but I also had to disconnect the driver side rear leaf spring at the axel and the take out the front pin and let that pivot down.
Fals alarm it isn't stainless just oddly clean and rust free. * que spooky music*

 

[LittleJohn]

So we got the h55f cleaned, sandblasted and ready for a teardown and rebuild. Again we built a sandblast booth with tarps and by tearing apart GSB15's blasting cabinet. Today my plan is to tear it apart, we will see how well that goes. I'm going to try and put to back together tomorrow.

Our super hytec sandblasting booth

After cleaning. Glory shot.

Before. We tried cleaning it with wire tooth brushes and break-kleen but that was way to much work and the fumes were going to kill us.
We ended up taking it to Blast it downtown and using their parts washing cabinet for $15.00 well $16.80 after tax. It was sweet. We dropped it off there and then went to Beacon Drive Through and had ice cream and waited for the guy to call us and tell us it was done. He ran it through as many times as needed till it was clean. It ended up taking about a hour.

After sand blasting. Much better

 

[LittleJohn]

Update.

Got the transfer caste pulled off and got to looking around in the transmission. The rebuild kit I bought didn't come with a set of syncros so I asked a friend (Red Ruby) and got some really solid advice. Looks like the syncros are shot and reed to be replaced, so I'm gona try and get my hands on a set.
You can tell because of the damage to the leading edge of the gear teeth. I was looking at the syncros themselves but apparently when the syncros wear out it is the leading edge of the corresponding gear teeth that suffer. Makes sense. You can see in the pictured that the teeth are "blunted". A hint that she got from a friend and passed along was to put lapping compound on the old syncros and lap them against the old gears to remove any glazing from the gear teeth. Then install the new syncros.

The first three pictures are 1st 2nd and 5th. The last two are the transfer case.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

I had syncros in my tool box for years, not sure what happened to them. I think they are pretty reasonable through toyota.

 

[LittleJohn]

I had syncros in my tool box for years, not sure what happened to them. I think they are pretty reasonable through toyota.

I found a set for 75 dollars each, not sure if that falls into reasonable or not.

 

[franken60]

a magnet will tell you if your tank is stainless or not...

cheers
crusty

not always