Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[ceylonfj40nut]

Frame level. Body level. Three paint stick gap between rear wheel pinch welds on both sides. 2”x4” on front clip member. Keeps body frame gaps in check if lift shifts.

Using 1/4” box channel for body mounts. First one made that sits below A pilllar on PS. Placed it approximately on frame with bolt through. Drilled the hole to fit rubber mount to suite 4 crawler kit. I will dial in exact hole position by grinding frame side interface. Frame side height are different because it sits on curved frame part. I left enough material to dial it in.

I down. 12 to go.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Did some CAD to get overall dimensions of the support and approximate dimensions. I transferred this to a 12” section of box channel. Then cut out pieces as needed to get final product. This was for PS.

For the DS I cut the PS CAD model along the length tape pointing to, flattened it and flipped it inside out. This gave me the starting template for the DS A pillar body mount.

 

[thatcabledude]

Damn fine work. Nice!

 

[TexFJ]

60 frame rust, separated shock tower. Swiss cheese.

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How is the body still look so good and yet the frame so rusted????

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Wizadry! I sense a body swap was in its lifetime before. Only thing i can rationalize!!!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

10 done last set of 2 at the rear left. Need to do some thinking on how best to integrate it with 4plus bumper.

Left to right on first pics shows front core support mount to 5th mount in the rear.

All made from 3”x6” rectangular tubing 1/4” thick. They will be prettied up a bit more before they get tacked on. The 80 frame has dips and angles that makes it harder to get all similar, 60 frame is pretty straight and easier.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

PS #5 body mount, the second to last on the rear. Will clean up before final weld. Created opening to get wrench in and replace bushings. Will cut slots on 3”x3” vertical piece to allow drainage.

 

[AcroSteve]

Cut the shock tower openings and lowered the body onto the frame. 60 series has a pinch weld seam on the rear that contacts the raised pedal bucket section and keeps the body an inch higher off the frame. After the pedal bucket area the frame droops down some. Most folks either cut the rear frame section and flip it up to get closer to the body while others trim the pinch weld to get the body closer to the frame. The rear cross member sits about 9” below the bottom of tail gate.

Cutting the pinch weld to gain an inch did mot make much sense to me, little gain. Cutting and flipping the frame did not appeal to me either.

I had a 60 series 4 plus bumper for the rear with swing outs for the tire carrier and fuel cans. Checking the dimensions last night, it fits perfectly to cover the frame to body gap in the rear nicely. Going to reconfigure the rear boxed framing to receive the bumper horns. I need the bumper to place the spare tire as I am using space below for the gas tank. Win!

In the front, I had a 60 series 4plus bumper ( an 8274 winch version) that i could mount on top of the frame horns by welding 1/4” boxed section above the frame. I will fishplate top and bottom sections with 3/8” or 1/2” plate on both sides to strengthen the connections. This gets me to use the front bumper with an 8274 which I have. It also allows me to keep 80 series front OEM tow hooks as additional recovery points. Win!

Gaining a 1” body lift which allows me to run 35” tires. Win!

Checking these last night brought together a few of the key pieces of the body fitment that was holding me back from doing the body mounts. The plan is clear now!

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Outstanding!

Would you happen to have taken pictures of the pinch weld / pedal bucket area?

I can't quite picture it.

 

[dogfishlake]

Nice work man! Now get it done so you can get on that 45!

See you soon!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Outstanding!

Would you happen to have taken pictures of the pinch weld / pedal bucket area?

I can't quite picture it.

I can on pinch weld. What do you mean pedal bucket? Rear Coil bucket you mean?

 

[AcroSteve]

Your post said "pedal bucket"

But I think I know now. It's the area of the frame visible in the rear fender opening, right?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Your post said "pedal bucket"

But I think I know now. It's the area of the frame visible in the rear fender opening, right?

1st pic on post #101

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Ordered some OEM bushing hardware from @cruisermatt. I had ordered the 4crawler bushings prior. Otherwise I would have bought OEM bushings from him as well. He has been very helpful on several things so far. Gonna give these a run. Still need to make the bushing cups from cold rolled steel pipe.

Was going to test fit the 4plus rear bumper but will hold off until i get the other mounts tacked in. Connecting the bumper would have caused the rear frame to lower and chassis not level. Once i tack in and support the body with the remaining mounts, i will tear out the rear OEM cross member and set the rear bumper and ensure it syncs with the rear most mounts.

I would not buy the 4crawler nuts and bolts, they are not long enough. Use OEM ones or grade 8 from ACE or similar

 

[cruisermatt]

Can you save the body mount cups that you cut off the original 80 frame body mounts? It’s only 36 plug welds to drill

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Mounts cleaned up ready to mount. Bottom to top on pic is front to back till mount set 5. Set 6 will be done with bumper.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Some close ups if others want to use general concepts for future builds. Not dimensioning because each build will have some tweaks.

 

[AcroSteve]

Very nice

Can hardly wait to see them on the frame.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Very nice

Can hardly wait to see them on the frame.

Plan for tomorrow. Glad i have learned to grind like Rembrandt. Welding is a work in progress

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Also made some rubber mount guides/seats with dom tubing

 

[AcroSteve]

What is the thickness of the rubber mount?

I want to keep moving on my fab, but don't have mounts yet. I can mock up some steel spacers for the layout work.